# Am i the only one who has this problem? >.<



## jampot (Mar 14, 2008)

I see lots of posts where people are arguing about using thermostats for heatmats because they can get to hot on the surface and the animal can burn itself (i did have a thermostat but unfortunatly it broke on the first day i got it and we didnt go to get our money back). When i see these posts i get jealous because my heatmats are USELESS! My bearded dragons (Dennis) heat light has been broken for a few months now and im only 13 and not a genius electricion no idea why its brocken (its going to be fixed soon and if my Mum cant do it i will have to get a new one:bash but between the 2 heatmats on the sides of his viv they keep him at 25c which i guess isnt that bad. 

The really annoying part is my two whites treefrogs light bulb fused and later that day before putting a new one in i checked the temp and even with a heat mat on the outside of the glass the temperature was 15c :censor:
the bulb is in now and all is fine.

Is anyone else finding heatmats rubbish or is it just my bad luck? Because im a bit worried about my baby hognose snake who is in a small plastic container thing and only has 2 heatmats to keep her warm 

Sorry for the rather long rant :blush:


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## Soulwax (Jan 6, 2009)

My heat mats work fine, I also have a baby hognose who has one.


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## mrhoyo (Mar 29, 2007)

jampot said:


> I see lots of posts where people are arguing about using thermostats for heatmats because they can get to hot on the surface and the animal can burn itself (i did have a thermostat but unfortunatly it broke on the first day i got it and we didnt go to get our money back). When i see these posts i get jealous because my heatmats are USELESS! My bearded dragons (Dennis) heat light has been broken for a few months now and im only 13 and not a genius electricion no idea why its brocken (its going to be fixed soon and if my Mum cant do it i will have to get a new one:bash but between the 2 heatmats on the sides of his viv they keep him at 25c which i guess isnt that bad.
> 
> The really annoying part is my two whites treefrogs light bulb fused and later that day before putting a new one in i checked the temp and even with a heat mat on the outside of the glass the temperature was 15c :censor:
> the bulb is in now and all is fine.
> ...


your animals have no stats?! Does the beardie even have a uv? 25 is nowhere near hot enough for a bearded dragon, its about 15 degrees too cold! Bearded dragons should really have a heat bulb on a dimming thermostat and a uvb bulb too. The heatmats for any animal should only cover a third of their vivarium too, i doubt you need two of them. 
Have you tried changing the lightbulb? It might just have blown. I really hope you get stuff sorted out, its upsetting how many people dont look after their animals properly these days:bash:


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## Pepper Pot (Jul 12, 2008)

mrhoyo said:


> your animals have no stats?! Does the beardie even have a uv? 25 is nowhere near hot enough for a bearded dragon, its about 15 degrees too cold! Bearded dragons should really have a heat bulb on a dimming thermostat and a uvb bulb too. The heatmats for any animal should only cover a third of their vivarium too, i doubt you need two of them.
> Have you tried changing the lightbulb? It might just have blown. I really hope you get stuff sorted out, its upsetting how many people dont look after their animals properly these days:bash:


totally agree,

heatmats are for heating anything that is directly on them (substrate)
they don't up the ambient temps...

get your reps sorted ASAP!


Peter


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

jampot said:


> I see lots of posts where people are arguing about using thermostats for heatmats because they can get to hot on the surface and the animal can burn itself (i did have a thermostat but unfortunatly it broke on the first day i got it and we didnt go to get our money back).


Ask your mum to change the fuse in the thermostat. This may fix it.



> When i see these posts i get jealous because my heatmats are USELESS! My bearded dragons (Dennis) heat light has been broken for a few months now and im only 13 and not a genius electricion no idea why its brocken (its going to be fixed soon and if my Mum cant do it i will have to get a new one:bash but between the 2 heatmats on the sides of his viv they keep him at 25c which i guess isnt that bad.


Right, ask your mom to try this:

1. Replace the bulb with a new one. If that doesn't work...
2. Replace the fuse in the bulb plug with a new one.

If those two things don't work, it's probably best to buy a new light bulb fixture. Have your mum buy the following from B&Q or Wilkinsons:

1 Edison-Screw fitting (most reptile branded spot lights are edison-screw)
1 reel (at least 2 metres) of 2-core heat resistant cable (the heat resistant part is important)
1 5-amp fused plug

You'll also need:

1 small Phillips (cross-head) screwdriver
1 small flat-head screwdriver
1 wire stripper / cutter (I don't recommend trying to use a craft or utility knife. Great way to wind up in Casualty)

Your mum should be able to wire up the fitting and the plug pretty easily (hint: wire the fitting first, attach it in place in the viv, then pass the cable through the hole at the back of the viv before putting the plug on it)

It is VERY important that you get that light fixed straight away. Without a hot enough basking spot, your beardie will not be able to digest his food properly. If he can't digest it properly but you keep feeding him, the food will rot in his belly and make him sick - it can even kill him. 

Does he still have a UVB bulb or tube so he has a proper daytime?



> The really annoying part is my two whites treefrogs light bulb fused and later that day before putting a new one in i checked the temp and even with a heat mat on the outside of the glass the temperature was 15c


Where did you measure that low temperature? If you weren't measuring it RIGHT on the glass where the heat mat is, you won't get an accurate reading. Heat mats don't heat the air really, they heat things that they're touching. So if it's touching the glass, it will heat the glass, but it won't really heat anything else.

You might also want to check the electrics in your house if all your reptile equipment keeps blowing fuses... that's usually a pretty good sign there's a problem!



> Because im a bit worried about my baby hognose snake who is in a small plastic container thing and only has 2 heatmats to keep her warm
> 
> Sorry for the rather long rant :blush:


You should only need one heat mat under a plastic faunarium, attached to a mat stat type thermostat.


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## Pepper Pot (Jul 12, 2008)

Ssthisto said:


> You should only need one heat mat under a plastic faunarium, attached to a mat stat type thermostat.


may I just add that it should be under only 1/3-1/2 of the enclosure to create a warm and cool end...
you might already know that (OP) but just making sure : victory:

Peter


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## mrfusion (Apr 21, 2009)

I'm new to the site but thought I may as well throw my idea in there.
Heat mats can vary alot (particularly between brands).
Whenever I get a new one I plug it directly into the mains and see how hot it gets, too hot and it gets a thermostat on it.
Usually I find most heat mats are fine without a thermostat, however, I have had one get so hot it began to soften its outer plastic! This is rare but I have heard of it happening before.
I had it fully checked out and there were no short circuits etc.

I'm not going to repeat all the posts above about heating your animals enclosures because these guys know what they are talking about and you need to get your heating sorted quick.


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## retri (Mar 5, 2008)

Ssthisto said:


> Ask your mum to change the fuse in the thermostat. This may fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


lol, that made me go and check the amp of the plugs I have recently fitted lol.

and kinda wish I had gonne for 2 core now, as I have used 3 core for all my wiring and it just makes life that little bit harder :bash:


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

mrfusion said:


> Usually I find most heat mats are fine without a thermostat,


That's interesting - my results are almost exactly the opposite.

I have *never* found a heat mat that retained a safe basking temperature for the species I keep. All of them have required thermostats to restrict the heat on the floor of the enclosure to the 80-95 degree range.


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## Anna89 (Sep 18, 2008)

Hi,

Ssthisto has given you some great advise! I suggest you follow it. 

I think your beardie may have some serious problems if he hasn't been getting the right temps for "a few months". Perhaps you could tell us about his set-up and we can help you? How old is he? 

Anna.


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## angela__k__84 (Oct 4, 2008)

I've always found that most heat mats left unstatted will reach over 100f, some as high as 120f.
However, I recently tried to use a heat mat that had come with a snake we rehomed and the temps never got over 80f it was awful. Having checked the mat it is from a company I have never heard of before, and since they are called Four Paws it seems odd that they'd be making heat mats anyway!
I thoroughly advocate the use of stats! I'm way too paranoid not to. I constantly measure my temps even when hooked to a stat as I don't like the fluctuation of the microclimates I am using.
I am seriously considering changing to Habistat Pulses for my own peace of mind.


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## wacky69 (Apr 8, 2008)

any heat source should be connected to a stat, it may cost approx £50 new as you need a dimming stat but can get one on the classifieds for around £25-£30 but is buttons compared to the life of your reptile, heatmats and bulbs can overheat and there is a post somewhere of a heatmat unstatted rising to over 100 degrees!

Also I think you need to explain your beardie set up as it seems like if it isnt corrected it could lead to serious problems!

A bearded dragon requires a basking spot of 105-110, this can be achieved by a 100w basking bulb mounted to the top of the viv, ensure this is connected to a stat with the stat set to 85, place the probe in the cool end!

they also require 10% uv which must run the full length of the viv along the back and within 6inches of your bearded dragon, you can also put a reflector to increase the uv in your vivarium! 

Heatmats are of no benefit to a bearded dragon regardless of where they are placed as they require heat from above to digest food prperly!

also do you dust the livefood 5days calcium, 2 days nutrobal? and provide veg like spring greens, butternut squash everyday?

What substrate are you using also?

Your set up really needs a little tweaking as the problems you have spoke about could cause your reps serious health problems!


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## shropshire-vivs (Mar 16, 2009)

Ssthisto said:


> That's interesting - my results are almost exactly the opposite.
> 
> I have *never* found a heat mat that retained a safe basking temperature for the species I keep. All of them have required thermostats to restrict the heat on the floor of the enclosure to the 80-95 degree range.


I have a 6 x 11 that when left on doesnt get any hotter than 93*c. (checked temps for around a week, obviously not constantly though)

It is only a spare though incase my mat or stat suddenly decide they dont wanna work anymore.


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## takeoffyourcolours (Apr 11, 2009)

Heatmats do suck.


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## Ferret1959 (Jul 16, 2008)

takeoffyourcolours said:


> Heatmats do suck.


No they don't.:devil:


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## jampot (Mar 14, 2008)

Thanks for all your replies i understand the situation is grim thanks for not tearing me to shreds. 

My beardie does have a daylight strip light (im not that rubbish) which we replaced a month or so ago he has optional shade at both ends of his viv and a basking area right under the heat lamp. I allways thought tiles or something would be the best sort of substrate cos of no impaction but i got my beardie of ov someone who had had him for years but was going to uni and he had him on this dust stuff :gasp: so i put him on chippings because i thought tiles would hurt his claws if he has never been on them before. He used to be fed mainly meal worms and he was kept in a loft but now he has a litle bowl of this cute pellet beardie food and i offer him crickets every other day, hes not particularly active which i think maily to do with the heat problem i think, but he was never handled much or looked at either with his old owner . I think he is probly older than 10 which im not sure if thats old for a beardie. 

Thank you very much for the help :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:
I will try and help get the light done asap!


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## jampot (Mar 14, 2008)

Thank you very very much Ssthisto im going out today with my Dad and i have printed of your post


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

that _'cute pellet food'_ is meant to be shit and no use to them at all as far as i'm aware


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## jampot (Mar 14, 2008)

Well out with the cute pellet food and in with a new ceramic lamp fixture!

I just went out with my Dad and got a ceramic lamp fixture and a 150w exo terra bulb now hopefully this will be sufficient. I will set it up on Sunday ( im at my Dads this weekend) if theres anything else i should get please say because i have a bit of pocketmoney left 

thank you all very much :roll2:


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## Adam W (Apr 21, 2008)

jampot said:


> Well out with the cute pellet food and in with a new ceramic lamp fixture!
> 
> I just went out with my Dad and got a ceramic lamp fixture and a 150w exo terra bulb now hopefully this will be sufficient. I will set it up on Sunday ( im at my Dads this weekend) if theres anything else i should get please say because i have a bit of pocketmoney left
> 
> thank you all very much :roll2:


I would not have it on wood chippings, i use kitchen roll to prevent impactation. 
With the ceramic you have just got you need to make sure that it is on a dimming thermostat.
Get rid of that cute pellet :censor: and feed it on crickets/locust and also salad.
You need to also use supplements such as nutrobal and calcium supplements.


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## thetong6969 (Apr 20, 2009)

i have 2 heat mats working on the same stat on 2 levels all 4 snakes are int ubs and temps are great for them theyre set ok and never had a problem with heat mats or thermostats
if it doesn`t work send it back to the manufacturers a small fee and they`ll replace it


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## reptilefever (Mar 6, 2009)

sounds to me he doesnt no much about keeping reps and how there setup should be alltogether the kid needs to do some research fast and listen to the very good advice of the peeps on here otherwise hes gona av a couple of very ill or evan dead pets :bash:


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## DRACSAT (Apr 13, 2008)

reptilefever said:


> sounds to me he doesnt no much about keeping reps and how there setup should be alltogether the kid needs to do some research fast and listen to the very good advice of the peeps on here otherwise hes gona av a couple of very ill or evan dead pets :bash:


i love replys like this:bash:

wheres the advice/help for the o/p in this?

answer NONE.

HE/SHE has come on here to ask for help and advice to improve his/her keeping

to the O/p i would go out n get a dimmmer stat aswell, a couple of digi thermostats if you have not already got them


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## ShaneLuvsMonitors (Sep 27, 2008)

reptilefever said:


> sounds to me he doesnt no much about keeping reps and how there setup should be alltogether the kid needs to do some research fast and listen to the very good advice of the peeps on here otherwise hes gona av a couple of very ill or evan dead pets :bash:


hmmmm lets have a go at the newbie... thatll deffo make him want to learn of the people who can help him. 

Brilliant advice there pal. Do you not remember when you first started and you had to ask for help? Or were you born instantly knowing how to set up a viv with heating systems installed correctly? 

Cause quite frankly pal it took me a good 6 months with some help from guys who new what they were doing to get everything right. 

Oh and just to point out how daft i think your post is :Na_Na_Na_Na:


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## jampot (Mar 14, 2008)

Well thanks for sticking up for me :flrt: i guess i dont know that much about reptiles i just assumed that he would have had the right setup when he was given to me which was dumb but thats why i joined this forum. I would like to think that i look after my 2 whites treefrogs quite nicely  i learnt from my mistake of having listened to the petshop when i got my first wc american greentreefrogs they said to keep them on gravel, to use a heatmat to heat the whole viv and they didnt meantion dechlorinating the water and so when i got them for my birthday i didnt know anything was wrong untill they died after a week or two so i joined a few forums, did tons of research and quickly found out whats wrong like i should have in the first place. My whites treefrogs are fat and healthy and are calling all the time thanks to the forums :notworthy: 

Once again thank you all, my beardie is all hypo and exited to have his new light in :flrt::lol2:


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## reptilefever (Mar 6, 2009)

yeah well maybe i was avin ago at the noob but before i got any reps at all i did my research and did things right first time which the lad should of done for him self and that goes for anybody, you dont jus go out and buy a car without learning about how to use it first so say what you want about it but i bet you all thought exactly the same when you red the lads original post and i didnt have to giv any advice since there was alot of good advice already posted already i was jus givin my thoughts on the state hes keeping his reps in.


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## Theodore (Apr 6, 2009)

Reptilefever where do you live, cause your world seems perfect!? 

Of course it goes without saying that any new pet should be researched properly before trying to keep it, but this guy is asking for HELP! 13 years old! Give em a break! 

There are plenty of threads on here that are general chat and banter, go make inappropriate comments to people in one of those. Don't say anything if you have nothing constructive to say in a thread like that, because comments like yours are from an irresponsible animal carer. A plea for help gets knocked down - the guy therefore stops asking for help - ultimately the animal suffers.

Ssthisto.... now that's a reply! Empathetic, helpful and most importantly constructive.

Good luck jampot, seems like your getting back on track with your little fella, whatever you do, keep asking questions.....

.... _He who asks is a fool for five minutes, but he who does not ask remains a fool forever._


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## DRACSAT (Apr 13, 2008)

reptilefever said:


> yeah well maybe i was avin ago at the noob but before i got any reps at all i did my research and did things right first time which the lad should of done for him self and that goes for anybody, you dont jus go out and buy a car without learning about how to use it first so say what you want about it but i bet you all thought exactly the same when you red the lads original post and i didnt have to giv any advice since there was alot of good advice already posted already i was jus givin my thoughts on the state hes keeping his reps in.


you are the presumtuios one arn't you!!!!!!!!!
how dare you assume that i think as narrow mindedly as you!!!!!

SAY WHAT I WANT!!!
well if i did that then i would most likley get banned 

but what i will say is that, it is people like you who do more harm then good with your I KNOW EVERY THING, I AM GOD COMPLEX.. TBH It is people like you that are the bain of forums, yes your entitled to your oppinon, but please do us all a fovor and keep it to your self. Unless of course it is relevant and constructive.


FYI i think the O/P has relized all is not right and has come on here to get help and advice. this is a good thing is it not?. 

Ummmmmmmmmmmm according to you NOT, you would rather belittle then help.
find a nice big rock n crawl underneath if you're not going to be helpfull


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## fixitsan (Apr 15, 2008)

Ssthisto said:


> You might also want to check the electrics in your house if all your reptile equipment keeps blowing fuses... that's usually a pretty good sign there's a problem!


If the fuse to the reptile equipment blows it can only be because of a fault with the reptile equipment, and not the wiring which goes before it.

Fuses are safety devices which act to separate the problem circuit from the main circuit, and to prevent damage to the equipment which they protect.


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

What, even if *multiple* devices are blowing?


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## DRACSAT (Apr 13, 2008)

fixitsan said:


> If the fuse to the reptile equipment blows it can only be because of a fault with the reptile equipment, and not the wiring which goes before it.
> 
> Fuses are safety devices which act to separate the problem circuit from the main circuit, and to prevent damage to the equipment which they protect.


 
if so
then why when you get a mains power surge does the fuse blow, as that would be the wiring before the equiptment


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## jampot (Mar 14, 2008)

Well there is an electrics problem, my mum just cant afford to fix it at the mo which is why my beardies light has only been aloud on when there is someone home which is normally alot of the time but in the last week or so it has been on and of because we have had to visit my nan. the only problem i found was yesterday when i was holding my hognose which is kept on top of my beardies viv i noticed that the floor in her home was hot to the touch:bash: luckily she cant touch the floor very easily in her tub, but it could have been bad. So i am having to get a smaller bulb for my beardie but dont despair, this is good because my mum says i can leave the 100 wat on all day :2thumb:

Thanks to all your advice my beardie is imensly happy and lively and i am changing his substrate to kitchen towel just as soon as i get a smaller bulb ( the one he has now would set it on fire)


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