# Matching UV starter and tube wattage?



## Crownan (Jan 6, 2007)

What happens if you dont?

i.e. What if you have a tube thats of a higher wattage rating than the starter, or vice versa; the starter wattage is greater than the tube?

Just wondering what would be the problems if any?

Thanks.

:2thumb:


----------



## Crownan (Jan 6, 2007)

Gonna bump this already as I need to order equipment etc 

Thanks.


----------



## Athravan (Dec 28, 2006)

If a starter is less than the wattage of a tube it may not start it always, and may work at the beginning but not be able to continue working correctly.
If a starter is higher than the wattage of a tube it has a higher chance of blowing the tube.

So you want to match it as closely as possible. I have never found a problem going 5w either way really, as the tubes are usually 15w, 18w (for which I use a 20w starter) etc. etc. but if you use a 40w starter on a 15w bulb, you're much more likely to blow the bulb.


----------



## Crownan (Jan 6, 2007)

Athravan said:


> If a starter is less than the wattage of a tube it may not start it always, and may work at the beginning but not be able to continue working correctly.
> If a starter is higher than the wattage of a tube it has a higher chance of blowing the tube.
> 
> So you want to match it as closely as possible. I have never found a problem going 5w either way really, as the tubes are usually 15w, 18w (for which I use a 20w starter) etc. etc. but if you use a 40w starter on a 15w bulb, you're much more likely to blow the bulb.


 
Are we talking blow it, meaning reduce its lifespan? Or are we talking POP! Glass everywhere?

I have a 15W tube and a 25-30W starter. I am going to get a new started but wondering if this might do for a few days while its on order?


----------



## Athravan (Dec 28, 2006)

We're talking pop, then darkness, the actual glass shouldn't smash, but the tube will burnout and be useless. 

It will work, and it will work for a while, it'll probably be alright, although I personally wouldn't recommend it, as you may damage the tube and have to replace that too.


----------



## Crownan (Jan 6, 2007)

Athravan said:


> We're talking pop, then darkness, the actual glass shouldn't smash, but the tube will burnout and be useless.
> 
> It will work, and it will work for a while, it'll probably be alright, although I personally wouldn't recommend it, as you may damage the tube and have to replace that too.


 
Hmm, is it a fire hazard? Thats the real question I suppose!


----------



## Athravan (Dec 28, 2006)

I shouldn't think so, the main time starters become fire hazards is if the starter itself overheats because it's not well ventilated.


----------



## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

If you're getting a replacement ballast see if you can get a modern electronic one, rather than the old-fashioned magnetic type. Electronic ballasts run cooler, extend bulb life, use less power, don't flicker, and don't have those annoying little starters that need periodic replacement!
Any good electrical wholesaler should have them, just tell them the wattage of your lamp so they can match it.


----------



## Crownan (Jan 6, 2007)

Graham said:


> If you're getting a replacement ballast see if you can get a modern electronic one, rather than the old-fashioned magnetic type. Electronic ballasts run cooler, extend bulb life, use less power, don't flicker, and don't have those annoying little starters that need periodic replacement!
> Any good electrical wholesaler should have them, just tell them the wattage of your lamp so they can match it.


I didnt think of that! And in my line of work (Energy and sustainability) I should've thought of that!!

I'll look into that! Thansk!


----------



## fixitsan (Apr 15, 2008)

Crownan said:


> What happens if you dont?
> 
> i.e. What if you have a tube thats of a higher wattage rating than the starter, or vice versa; the starter wattage is greater than the tube?
> 
> ...


 
The rating of the ballast is the maximum designed power delivery limit. The tube power rating is the maximum power it will consume during correct operation.

Using a higher rating ballast on a lower rated tube only wastes a bit of unused power as heat in the transformer which is normally acceptable, and the transformer may not get any warmer than it would if loaded to it's design limit.

Using a tube with a higher demand than the ballast can provide will strain the ballast, make it overheat and eventually fail. That assumes that it can ignite the tube in the first place.


----------



## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

> ...in my line of work (Energy and sustainability) I should've thought of that!!


I'm rather surprised that you didn't in that case!

Since using a twin electronic ballast to run two T5 tubes in my terrarium I'd never use anything else, they're far superior to magnetic ones in all respects.

TBH I'm amazed that magnetic ballasts are available still, given the benefits of electronic ones.


----------



## Crownan (Jan 6, 2007)

Graham said:


> I'm rather surprised that you didn't in that case!
> 
> Since using a twin electronic ballast to run two T5 tubes in my terrarium I'd never use anything else, they're far superior to magnetic ones in all respects.
> 
> TBH I'm amazed that magnetic ballasts are available still, given the benefits of electronic ones.


 
Cost. I know in industry the High Frequency gear is quite a lot more expensive.

What UV tubes are available in T5 sizes


----------



## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

I don't know if you can get T5 UVB tubes, at least ones with an output suitable for reptiles. I think some of the dartfrog people may use T5s with a low UVB output, but then the frogs don't really need it anyway I don't think?

The T5s in my terrarium (which was intended to house dartfrogs) are cool daylight (865/6500K) ones, the plants love them!


----------

