# LzzrdBoy's DIY Leo Gecko Vivarium Project - Red Rock Canyon Style



## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

On Friday I began to draw up my plans for creating a new vivarium for Neo the Leopard Gecko. The viv itself is a 50 gallon bow front aquarium I picked up from a neighbor for FREE. I'm going to use this thread to post pics, videos, and details of the project. I'm guessing this one will take me around 2-3 weeks given its size, the detail I plan to apply, and my serious lack of free time.

I'm at the office right now but upon returning home I'll attach photos to each step listed below.

*General Plan:* To create a modular red-rock (canyon) styled environment incorporating background, sides, 3 hides, food/water, and misc. climbing structures.

Here's a photo of the look I'm shooting for. Not the actual landscape but more the texture and shape of the rocks in the photo.









And here's a photo (Courtesy of Becky Wheeler) of what I'm "hoping" my finished structure will look like. This is however from a very large vivarium so mine will be much smaller in detail.









*Must Haves:*


Full height 3D background
3/4 height sides
Cool hide
Warm hide
Humid hide
Food dish
Water dish
"Shelves" for climbing/chillin'


*Supplies List:*


6-pack of 3/4" panel foam insulation ($9.23/6 @ Lowes)
3 tubes of Liquid Nails ($1.74/ea @ Lowes)
10 lbs of White unsanded grout ($11.78 @ Lowes)
10oz of Cement color - Terra Cotta ($4.38 @ Lowes)
1 gallon of Shields All all-purpose clear sealant ($24.75 @ Hy Tech Sales)
1 tube each burnt umber, white, canyon red, and ivy green acrylic paint ($.97/ea @ Walmart)
4 or 5 mixed size paint brushes ($1.97 @ Walmart)
1 fine grit sandpaper block ($1.99 @ Lowes)
1 knife (any old small one will do)
1 ancient pen-style soldering gun (already own/not really a requirement for most)
ShopVac or alike to suck up the itty bitty pieces of styrofoam


*STEP 1:*
Measure the surface area to be covered by the background/sides/bottom of the structure to ensure good fit. My unit is 24" wide and 18" high. The top of the unit has a support bar which runs from front to back down the center. For this reason I had to create my background/sides in two modular pieces. The left module includes the left background and side pieces. The right module includes the right background and side pieces.

*STEP 2:*
Cut the foam board into appropriate sizes based on measurements taken in STEP 1. I cut two 12"x18" pieces for the background panels and two 6"x18" pieces for the side panels. I then cut two additional pieces which are used to both support the sides when adhered to the background panels, and as roofs for each of the corner hides. I also cut four additional smaller pieces to place in the corner where the side meets the background to provide additional support during construction.

*STEP 3:*
Using Liquid Nails adhere the side panes to the background panels. Additionally, adhere the smaller pieces to both the side and background panels (in the corner where they meet) for extra support. At this point I decided to take a break and let the Liquid Nails setup a little before proceeding. On smaller projects there is no need to wait but on large projects where weight could be an issue, I recommend a minimum of 1 hour to allow the Liquid Nails to set up.

*STEP 4:*
While awaiting the adhesive to set I began to shape and sand the smaller pieces, which, if arranged properly, will simulate the look and texture of the rock & cliffs in the photo at the top of this thread. When attempting to simulate the curved and rounded shape of the rock I found it was much easier to cut out the basic shape using my old soldering iron. It's a pen-style iron with a tip a smidgen longer than an inch. Using this iron allows me to easily curve the shape of the foam which, when sanded, looks quite a lot like the real thing. Cutting the shapes at varying lengths ensures a staggered look to the design. To create "shelves" in the structure I cut larger pieces which are also sanded and shaped to blend into the rest of the structure while still providing an outcrop of sorts for Neo to chill on.

*STEP 5:*
Now that the Liquid Nails has had time to set up a little more, it's onto the piecing together of the puzzle, if you will. With drawing in hand I place the pieces of rock wall starting from the top of the background down. Individual pieces are placed level in a horizontal fashion from left to right. As each row is completed from edge to edge I add the "shelf" pieces at various locations among them. The idea is to give Neo an easy path ensuring he can step from one "shelf" to another moving around the background and sides both vertically as well as horizontally. While placing the various pieces I decided to add some larger corner "shelf" pieces to simulate overhangs and larger rocks which will also serve as a place for Neo to chill while moving about the structure.

*STEP 6:*
At this point, while allowing the rock pieces to set up, I begin working on the two hides. Each hide will reside in the bottom of the corner of each of the two halves of the structure. The cool hide has a floor panel created from the foam which has been shaped, and sanded to look like the rest of the rock within the structure. The warm hide has no floor as the UTH (Under Tank Heater) will be beneath it. Each hide is constructed by using small pieces of foam panel shaped and sanded to look like fallen stones/boulders. Corners of the structure are created by stacking small (1"-1.5") misshapen pieces of "rock" while sides are done using the same concept but with rectangular pieces of small "rock". By stacking one or two of the rectangular pieces followed by 2 of the smaller "stone" pieces (one on each end) followed by 1 or 2 more rectangular pieces one can easily create a natural looking "window" through which you can easily view the inhabitant(s) of the hide.

*STEP 7:*
At this point the essentially complete structure is ready to dry before starting to grout. If you're as much of a perfectionist as myself, you'll most likely stand back at this point and say "WAIT! I can make this look better!". As I eyeballed the nearly finished product I noticed there were several spots where gaps were visible between the "rock" pieces. In an effort to close said gaps I created some extremely small pieces of sanded "stone" and adhered them to the various holes where they seemed to be needed. In an effort to conceal the majority of the "seam" down the middle of the background piece I adhered several pieces of the smaller pieces in a way where they only slightly overlapped from the left to the right or from the right to the left, of the "seam". Although this doesn't hide the "seam" completely it certainly throws off the eye of the viewer and breaks up the vertical line. Since the back of this aquarium is mirrored I need to ensure as little of it shows through the background as possible.

*STEP 8:*
After allowing all pieces to dry on the sides/background I started mixing my grout. The first layer contains a half teaspoon or so of cement color and is mixed so that its consistency is that of runny pancake mix. Using a thinner first coat will ensure most, if not all of the cracks are penetrated by the grout. Working on the side first I laid the background down so that the side was flat on the table. Using the larger of my brushes I began to "slop" on the grout while wiping the brush against the edges of the rocks allowing the grout to run down in between all the pieces. Next I switch to a medium sized brush and fill in as many of the little polystyrene holes as possible. Lastly I use a small brush to squeeze grout into every last nook and cranny. While the first coat of grout applied to the side panel dries I turn the structure so that the background is now flat on the table. Using the same method stated above I cover the entire background piece in grout. When done, it's time to switch to the other half of the structure and repeat the process. Once both halves have received their first complete coat I set the whole thing aside and allow it to dry for a full 24 hours.

*STEP 9:*
COMING SOON!

As of today, this is last completed step. I'll be applying my second coat of grout this evening and will do my best to get some photos for each step posted. My hope is that this "how-to" at the very least, will provide an alternative set of instructions for creating a look unique of those found at sites like lizard-landscapes, youtube, etc. Although the methods outlined elsewhere are similar, none of the processes outlined allowed me to achieve the look I wanted. That said, I guess we'll see how it looks in the end.

*Sources:*
Fake Rock Man @ Lizard-Landscapes - Lizard care, and fake rock wall landscapes
Becky Wheeler @Youtube (Canyon Vivarium Background Video Series) - YouTube - Part 1 Grand canyon vivarium background
Becky Wheeler @ RFUK (Canyon Vivarium Background Forum Thread) - http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/habitat/633351-grand-canyon-vivarium-background-pics.html


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## ch4dg (Jul 24, 2008)

sounds like a plan..... but you forgot the vacuum:gasp:


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

ch4dg said:


> sounds like a plan..... but you forgot the vacuum:gasp:


Very good point ch4dg. I actually keep my shop-vac next to me while cutting and sanding the foam panels. For the most part, the pieces and parts, not to mention the floating ones find their way into the hose. Leftovers are easily sucked up afterwards.

And on that note, I DO NOT recommend working with the foam panel in your living room/kitchen/bathroom/bedroom as the little floating balls will definitely get just about everywhere!


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

How the heck do I edit my OP for this thread? Am I missing the edit button? Surely we're allowed to edit our posts right?


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

So apparently, this board prohibits editing of posts after the first 15 minutes of posting. That said, I'll not continue to update this thread but instead will provide a link to the thread I'm allowed to edit. Here ya' go...

LzzrdBoy's DIY Leo Gecko Vivarium Project - Red Rock Canyon Style - GeckoForums.net

I've added some photos of the project so feel free to have a looky-see.


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

So now that I've got some pictures up I thought I'd post a reply with all the details on the build so far. I'll keep adding replies as I'm still having to do the same on other boards. May as well here too...

So after I picked up a 29 Gallon Bow Front Aquarium on Friday I began to draw up my plans for creating a new vivarium for Neo the Leopard Gecko. As I state in my original aquarium thread, the height is a little much but given the fact it was free, I'm not complaining. I'm going to use this thread to post pics, videos, and details of the project. I'm guessing this one will take me around 2-3 weeks given its size, the detail I plan to apply, and my serious lack of free time.

*General Plan:* To create a modular red-rock (canyon) styled environment incorporating background, sides, 3 hides, food/water, and misc. climbing structures.

Here's a photo of the look I'm shooting for. Not the actual landscape but more the texture and shape of the rocks in the photo.









And here's a photo (Courtesy of Becky Wheeler) of what I'm "hoping" my finished structure will look like. This is however from a very large vivarium so mine will be much smaller in detail.









And here's one more photo which I'll update from time to time which shows the tank with the structures in it.









*Must Haves:*


Full height 3D background
3/4 height sides
Cool hide
Warm hide
Humid hide
Food dish
Water dish
"Shelves" for climbing/chillin'


*Supplies List:*


6-pack of 3/4" panel foam insulation ($9.23/6 @ Lowes)
3 tubes of Liquid Nails ($1.74/ea @ Lowes)
10 lbs of White unsanded grout ($11.78 @ Lowes)
10oz of Cement color - Terra Cotta ($4.38 @ Lowes)
1 gallon of Shields All all-purpose clear sealant ($24.75 @ Hy Tech Sales)
1 tube each burnt umber, white, canyon red, and ivy green acrylic paint ($.97/ea @ Walmart)
4 or 5 mixed size paint brushes ($1.97 @ Walmart)
1 fine grit sandpaper block ($1.99 @ Lowes)
1 knife (any old small one will do)
1 ancient pen-style soldering gun (already own/not really a requirement for most)
ShopVac or alike to suck up the itty bitty pieces of styrofoam


*STEP 1:*
Measure the surface area to be covered by the background/sides/bottom of the structure to ensure good fit. My unit is 24" wide and 18" high. The top of the unit has a support bar which runs from front to back down the center. For this reason I had to create my background/sides in two modular pieces. The left module includes the left background and side pieces. The right module includes the right background and side pieces.

*STEP 2:*
Cut the foam board into appropriate sizes based on measurements taken in STEP 1. I cut two 12"x18" pieces for the background panels and two 6"x18" pieces for the side panels. I then cut two additional pieces which are used to both support the sides when adhered to the background panels, and act as roofs for each of the corner hides. I also cut four additional smaller pieces to place in the corner where the side meets the background to provide additional support during construction.

*STEP 3:*
Using Liquid Nails adhere the side panels to the background panels. Additionally, adhere the smaller pieces to both the side and background panels (in the corner where they meet) for extra support. At this point I decided to take a break and let the Liquid Nails setup a little before proceeding. On smaller projects there is no need to wait but on large projects where weight could be an issue, I recommend a minimum of 1 hour to allow the Liquid Nails to set up.

The photos below were taken after applying the first layer of grout, however, you should be able to get the idea behind the method for creating the red rock canyon look.

This is the right-side module.









This is the left side module.










*STEP 4:*
While awaiting the adhesive to set I began to shape and sand the smaller pieces, which, if arranged properly, will simulate the look and texture of the rock & cliffs in the photo at the top of this thread. When attempting to simulate the curved and rounded shape of the rock I found it was much easier to cut out the basic shape using my old soldering iron. It's a pen-style iron with a tip a smidgen longer than an inch. Using this iron allows me to easily curve the shape of the foam which, when sanded, looks quite a lot like the real thing. Cutting the shapes at varying lengths ensures a staggered look to the design. To create "shelves" in the structure I cut larger pieces which are also sanded and shaped to blend into the rest of the structure while still providing an outcrop of sorts for Neo to chill on.

This is a photo of a small piece of foam after cutting, shaping, and sanding the edges. The next photo shows the soldering iron I used to cut out the pieces and form the basic shape of each piece. The sanding block pictured in the third photo is simply there for reference. I've found it much easier to work with blocks than paper. Just a little tip!


















*STEP 5:*
Now that the Liquid Nails has had time to set up a little more, it's onto the piecing together of the puzzle, if you will. With drawing in hand I place the pieces of rock wall starting from the top of the background down. Individual pieces are placed level in a horizontal fashion from left to right. As each row is completed from edge to edge I add the "shelf" pieces at various locations among them. The idea is to give Neo an easy path ensuring he can step from one "shelf" to another moving around the background and sides both vertically as well as horizontally. While placing the various pieces I decided to add some larger corner "shelf" pieces to simulate overhangs and larger rocks which will also serve as a place for Neo to chill while moving about the structure.

Here are a few close-ups of the structure including "shelves", hides, etc.

















*STEP 6:*
At this point, while allowing the rock pieces to set up, I begin working on the two hides. Each hide will reside in the bottom of the corner of each of the two halves of the structure. The cool hide has a floor panel created from the foam which has been shaped, and sanded to look like the rest of the rock within the structure. The warm hide has no floor as the UTH (Under Tank Heater) will be beneath it. Each hide is constructed by using small pieces of foam panel shaped and sanded to look like fallen stones/boulders. Corners of the structure are created by stacking small (1"-1.5") misshapen pieces of "rock" while sides are done using the same concept but with rectangular pieces of small "rock". By stacking one or two of the rectangular pieces followed by 2 of the smaller "stone" pieces (one on each end) followed by 1 or 2 more rectangular pieces one can easily create a natural looking "window" through which you can easily view the inhabitant(s) of the hide.

Here are photos of each hide. The first is the cool hide (built in floor) while the second is the warm hide (no floor).

















*STEP 7:*
At this point the essentially complete structure is ready to dry before starting to grout. If you're as much of a perfectionist as myself, you'll most likely stand back at this point and say "WAIT! I can make this look better!". As I eyeballed the nearly finished product I noticed there were several spots where gaps were visible between the "rock" pieces. In an effort to close said gaps I created some extremely small pieces of sanded "stone" and adhered them to the various holes where they seemed to be needed. In an effort to conceal the majority of the "seam" down the middle of the background piece I adhered several pieces of the smaller pieces in a way where they only slightly overlapped from the left to the right or from the right to the left, of the "seam". Although this doesn't hide the "seam" completely it certainly throws off the eye of the viewer and breaks up the vertical line. Since the back of this aquarium is mirrored I need to ensure as little of it shows through the background as possible.

*STEP 8:*
After allowing all pieces to dry on the sides/background I started mixing my grout. The first layer contains a half teaspoon or so of cement color and is mixed so that its consistency is that of runny pancake mix. Using a thinner first coat will ensure most, if not all of the cracks are penetrated by the grout. Working on the side first I laid the background down so that the side was flat on the table. Using the larger of my brushes I began to "slop" on the grout while wiping the brush against the edges of the rocks allowing the grout to run down in between all the pieces. Next I switch to a medium sized brush and fill in as many of the little polystyrene holes as possible. Lastly I use a small brush to squeeze grout into every last nook and cranny. While the first coat of grout applied to the side panel dries I turn the structure so that the background is now flat on the table. Using the same method stated above I cover the entire background piece in grout. When done, it's time to switch to the other half of the structure and repeat the process. Once both halves have received their first complete coat I set the whole thing aside and allow it to dry for a full 24 hours.

These can be found near the top of this thread but I wanted to put them here as well to show what the two modules look like following the first application of grout.

















Here are a few photos of the Grout, Color, and Paint I'm using and will be using throughout the project.

























*Note... Although the Corona is not a requirement for this build I highly recommend you pick some up anyway. You'll want it at some point I guarantee you! 

*STEP 9:*
After allowing the first layer of grout to dry and harden we're now into day 2. This evening I started by mixing a new batch of grout. Remember to add your cement color to the water BEFORE you add the grout mix. If not, you'll end up with a "speckled" look which simply looks strange. This batch of grout should be a little thicker than the first. Instead of runny pancake mix I suggest "standard" pancake mix as the consistency. Once mixed well, begin slapping it on ensuring you get into virtually every single crack and crevice. Again, allow the grout to fully dry and harden for at least 24 hours before proceeding. Some will tell you there is no need to wait this long in between applications of grout, however, from my experience, a full day is required. Feel free to use your own judgment however.

Here's a photo of the right-side module after applying grout layer #2.









*STEP 10:*
Last night I completed the application of the 3rd layer of grout. As stated previously, this coat should be thicker than the last. Much thicker at that. With this layer my intention was to fill in as many of the deep crevices as possible. Although not yet perfect with regard to coverage it's coming along nicely. Here are a few pics taken after the 3rd coat dried. I'll probably throw on one more layer of the thick stuff and then it's on to painting. Stay tuned!




























*STEP 11:*
So I finally found time to paint a little last night. I started by applying a burnt umber color base to the faces of, and cracks between, the rocks. Once this layer dried slightly I mixed some of the canyon red with the burnt umber and applied a second layer to the entire structure creating a lighter layer of slightly red highlights. Next I applied a third layer of the same color mix but this time I went heavy on the canyon red. The result is a look which simulates depth among the rock structure. The darker colors between the rocks and in the cracks around them fool the eye (brain) into seeing much more detail and depth than is really there. Once the first 3 coats dried completely I applied very small amounts of old ivy to some of the corners and deep crevices. Not enough to cause pooling or dripping of the paint but merely enough to cover the color already there. Once this dried I lightly scuffed over it with the same brush I used to apply the last coat of burnt umber and canyon red. The effect is perfect in my opinion. Looks exactly like small patches of green moss or other flora growing from within the depths of the rock. At this point I think it's obvious I'm getting carried away with detail. However, I will be the one looking at this thing for the next few years, not you folk. I snapped some photos when I finished the first half of the structure but I never got around to offloading them. I'll try and get them up tonight if not sooner. Next I'll be painting the second half of the structure. Hopefully it'll come out as nice as the first. Stay tuned!

*STEP 12:*
Coming Soon...

My hope is that this "how-to" at the very least, will provide an alternative set of instructions for creating a look unique of those found at sites like lizard-landscapes, youtube, etc. Although the methods outlined elsewhere are similar, none of the processes outlined allowed me to achieve the look I wanted. That said, I guess we'll see how it looks in the end.

*Sources:*
Fake Rock Man @ Lizard-Landscapes - Lizard care, and fake rock wall landscapes
Becky Wheeler @Youtube (Canyon Vivarium Background Video Series) - YouTube - Part 1 Grand canyon vivarium background
Becky Wheeler @ RFUK (Canyon Vivarium Background Forum Thread) - http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/habitat/633351-grand-canyon-vivarium-background-pics.html


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

*Photos to go with STEP 11*

*Photos to go with STEP 11*


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

*Step 12 just added!*

*STEP 12:*
Over the weekend I worked some long hours in an attempt to wrap this project up. Fortunately, I got quite a bit completed. However, not everything is ready just yet. This step started early on Saturday morning as I grabbed my supply list and headed out the door. I first went to PetSmart. I was on the hunt for some pieces of slate/flagstone and I read online that PS carried at least one type in-store. I also needed to look at hoods and lighting fixtures as I had already come to the conclusion that I would NOT be building my own lighting fixture. I was also hoping to pick up some supers while there. After checking out their stock of slate / flagstone tiles/pieces I was unimpressed. They were priced at $17.99 and only contained 4 or 5 small 3"x4" pieces. I need something bigger as I'll be covering the exposed portion of the tank floor with these. I also had NO LUCK finding a hood to meet my needs. However, I managed to pick up one of the dual lamp Zilla fixtures for $24.99, normally $34.99. So that was worth the drive. Picked up a couple of bulbs while there too. Grabbed my supers and headed down to Home Depot. My goal at Home Depot was to find something along the lines of a vivarium plant but unfortunately, I didn't have much luck. I also wanted to check on flagstone to see if I could get something from HD which would serve my flooring purpose. BINGO! JACKPOT! I found a section of the flagstone below outside in the Garden Center for $8.89. The section includes 6 pieces of flagstone...each measuring around 8"x9" or slightly larger. The majority of the stones are redish in color which is perfect for my setup. The stones are completely untreated and are held together with a plastic mesh back piece. The stones are easily separated from the back piece and the glue they use to hold each stone in place can also be easily removed. I feel this was a great find as I now have all the stone I could need and at half the price of that sold by PS.

Here's a photo and link for the flagstone @ Home Depot. Although the site states they no longer carry the product, my location had a ton of it. Doesn't hurt to check your local store!









Upon arriving home from my morning of shopping I began to apply my first coat of sealer to the background structure. I figured the whole thing could be drying while I get to work on the tank topper and flagstone. The first coat was applied with a spray bottle. When mixing the sealer I usually keep the ratio around 1 part water, 2 parts sealer. I prefer mine a little thicker at first and usually end up thinning the mixture at little when applying later coats. After spraying on the first layer of sealer I use a small sponge-brush to smooth out the leftover "pools" of sealant. A sponge-brush makes it much easier to spread the sealer. I don't recommend a paint brush as the sealer will simply form clumps within the bristles. So, the first coat is now drying...

While at the HD I also picked up some 1/2" board for my tank topper, a handle, 2 hinges, and some aluminum screening. I essentially created a template to match the dimensions of the top of the tank (inside) and transferred it to the board I purchased earlier at HD. I cut out the shape of the top and then proceeded to cut the top into two pieces. Next I cut out a hole for the dual light fixture and covered it on both sides with aluminum screen. The two hinges were attached to the two halves of the topper and the handle was attached the the side opposite the light fixture. I'll take a few photos of the topper and post them within the next day or so. It's nothing super duper complicated but it totally serves my purpose.

After completing the tank topper I applied the second coat of sealer. This time I sprinkled the structure with some of the red sand I'll be using under the flagstone. I especially tried to get some of the sand into the horizontal lines between the pieces of faux rock to help ease the transition from one stone to the next. After allowing the second coat to dry it became very evident the sand was a great addition as the extra texture adds realism without a lot of effort. Once the 2nd coat dried I applied the 3rd. I added more sand to this coat and allowed it to dry once more before applying the fourth and final coat of sealer. After a solid 24 hours sitting in the garage surrounded by fans I feel confident the entire structure is now dry. There is still a slight "fumy" odor but as with past projects, it will dissipate soon enough. This week I'll be buffing the shine off the faux rock faces and adding some flora to two of the structure's corners. More on that in the next step. And remember, I didnt' forget photos...I just haven't yanked them off the camera yet. I'll get them up in the next day or two for sure!

*STEP 13:*
Coming Soon...


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

Here are some updated photos to show the nearly finished structure after *STEP 12*. I buffed the shiny spots and added a little more sand for a natural look. Flora goes in this weekend with pics to follow thereafter. When I took these pics the structure was still a little damp. Hence the darker vs. lighter spots. As of this morning, it looks quite consistent.


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## x_Living_Dead_Girl_x (Feb 16, 2009)

The fake background looks great, though how small is that tank? I'm not trying to be a party pooper, it's just it looks way too small for a leopard gecko and they need more floor space than height.


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

x_Living_Dead_Girl_x said:


> The fake background looks great, though how small is that tank? I'm not trying to be a party pooper, it's just it looks way too small for a leopard gecko and they need more floor space than height.


Not pooping on the party, no worries. I thought the same thing when I saw it online but when I picked it up it was evident it was large enough. The floor of the tank measures 24" x 15" so it's actually larger than the 10 gallon he's been living in for the past 2 years. During that time I've noticed Neo enjoys going "up" as much as he wanders around on the ground. Hence the reason for some vertical climbing structures. Thanks for the input LDG!


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## x_Living_Dead_Girl_x (Feb 16, 2009)

LzzrdBoy said:


> Not pooping on the party, no worries. I thought the same thing when I saw it online but when I picked it up it was evident it was large enough. The floor of the tank measures 24" x 15" so it's actually larger than the 10 gallon he's been living in for the past 2 years. During that time I've noticed Neo enjoys going "up" as much as he wanders around on the ground. Hence the reason for some vertical climbing structures. Thanks for the input LDG!


Ooh ok, the pictures are deceiving! lol.
Nice name - my beardie is called Neo


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## ch4dg (Jul 24, 2008)

that looks awesome,
he's not scared of heights is he?:lol2:


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

*Step 13 - COMPLETE!*

*STEP 13:*
Step 13 essentially consists of putting everything in the tank together. The heat pad and reptitherm thermostat arrived from Amazon on Friday evening. I setup the pad, the thermometers, and the thermostat and added the substrate. Reptisand went in with flagstone over the top. The lizard skull was placed on the warm side with water dish on the cool side. Floor temps are regulated at right around 100-102 degrees. Air temp within the tank on the warm side is hovering around 95-96 degrees. Air temps on the cool side are staying right around 84-85 degrees. I'm actually quite impressed with how well the temps maintained over the first 24 hours. The next 12 were spent monitoring temps and humidity every hour on the hour. 40-50% seems to be the norm for the location of the tank. I may add a dehumidifier to the room if it doesn't decrease a little. So, with everything in place, Neo moved in this afternoon. He's still resting from his night of romping but when he gets up I'm sure he'll have plenty of "checkin' out" to do. The photos below are all of the completed setup. Feel free to let your comments fly and next week, I'll post photos of Neo in the new enclosure.

Goodies


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## LzzrdBoy (Apr 19, 2011)

*Neo in his new Vivarium*

Last night Neo and I had some alone time so I coaxed him out of his hide and got him to munch on a few super worms. I usually call his name softly and he comes out but this time all I had to do was rub my nuckle on the flagstone outside his hide and he trotted right out. He immediately climbed into my hand and sat there. Twas quite funny. Anyway, after he ate I snapped a few pics of him sticking his head out of the warm side hide. Almost looks like he's winking at me. lol Anyway, enjoy.*

The whole shabang















































































*


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