# pvc caging, a build log



## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

i am going to build some cages for my filesnakes as their now approaching adulthood (ish) and they do like to roam when given the chance. as i only have 2 pairs of snakes now i see no reason why i cant make their captive life as interesting and enjoyable as possible. i am still in the preliminary stages of gathering parts, i have done some test work though. il add to the thread as and when there is progress.

first the the species im building for, the cape filesnake, mehelya capensis, a strongly built snake about the size of a large corn, in my care at least they have proven to be mostly crepuscular, active mostly at dawn and dusk, about an hour after lights out (9pm) they start to roam their trays and would definitely benefit from more space and activity opportunity's, though being crepuscular i wont see them having fun in all my hard work but they will nevertheless.



















both are around a metre ish long.

the cage will be made almost completely of pvc, specifically, pvc soffit boards, these are 10mm thick and hollow, making them very light and a good insulator, they come in other colours too.

10mm Hollow Soffit: Black Hollow Cladding : Buy PVC Gutters, Fascia and roofline claddings in the Online Shop, The PVC Trade Centre

these boards are £16.54 per 5m length of 300mm wide pieces, they are joined via a tongue and groove system which makes them quite stable and easy to use.










a little scribble of the cage










the size of the cage will be defined by the tray section, these will be "drawer cages" like regular cages but with a false floor under which is a sliding drawer the snakes access via an opening in the upper cage section. if the cage is used for a pair of snakes the drawer can be used to separate them during feeding, one above, one below, with the access hole being capped off. i have made a few of these cages before and they work very well.










the tray is approx 100cm x 55cm x 15cm, now there is difference in selecting a tray for a rack system and selecting a tray for a drawer cage, for a rack system u want a good deep tray, as this is the entire habitat, into which u will place hides etc, but in the drawer cage, the tray is only the hide section and should be thought of as such, if the tray is too deep then u will have to add hides for nervous animals and this, in my opinion, defeats the purpose of having sub-floor hides, so the tray depth of 15cm is ideal for a hide drawer, but too shallow for a rack system containing the same animal, i hope that makes sense.

the boards are 300mm wide and when joined will be the standard 600mm cage depth wide and will be used as per normal cage building techniques.

the adhesive used to join the boards together is pvc cement










though called a cement, its more akin to a solvent weld, where the molecules on the surfaces are disrupted and once cured will become one single piece of pvc, like metal welding does to metal.

these corner trims will hold the cage sides top bottom etc together and will also be glued with the cement, these are £6.11 per 5m length










this cement drys quite quickly and forms a very strong bond. one word of caution, use good ventilation and don't drip any on the plastic sides or it will mark the piece. there is no need for a primer as the material is new and should be contaminant free.

the cage will have a full sized drop down glass door, i haven't decided on frame type or placement yet, u can use acrylic, but i detest scratches, and acrylic just loves to get scratched. so overall cage size should be about 1metre long (plus or minus 10cm) 60cm deep and 75 cm high, this height is made up of a 15cm drawer section and a 60cm high upper cage section.

heating, the drawers will have a 23x11 statted pad under them, the upper cage section will have 75w reptile radiators, with no guard, i have never found them necessary, i believe they only get dangerously hot when placed in too large of a cage when they are forced to work at 100% of their capacity almost constantly. i have used these a few times before and have nothing but good things to say about them.

lighting will be via daylight compact bulbs, 6500-7000k per bulb, i have not decided on the specifics on this yet but i have purchased several of 3 different types to play with, whatever is used they will be mounted flush to the ceiling so no part can be climbed on, dangled from or otherwise messed with.

these cages will have backgrounds on the walls, which i have already started the basics on, im not a fan of backgrounds generally, the snake does not see them as a part of nature, just another different textured wall in its cage. they are for the keepers benefit mostly, the ones that encroach on the floor plan are the ones i dislike the most, taking up floor space with a foam root, bulge etc the snake has no use for doesn't make much sense to me. but they can be useful, and there is nothing wrong in having a pretty cage just for the keeper to smile at, i wipe their ass, i think i deserve some say, don't u think 

to make them useful u can, as i intend to, add ledges that can be climbed on, rested on and generally played around on. one of the main reasons im using a background is i don't particularly like the plain black look, featureless and uninteresting and it just doesn't do anything for me. the background will be made on 1" dense polysty sheets, essentially they will be background inserts. this provides many benefits, the foremost being u haven't just sprayed glue all over ur lovely new cage.

they can be removed, cleaned, changed, sprayed for mites etc etc

there a few different methods of making backgrounds, from coir rolls to spray expanding foam, i haven't quite decided yet. the one i may try and have bought most of the elements for is to spray polysty with spray adhesive and then cover the glued surface with coarse orchid bark, pieces of cork bark would be added to provide "useful" structures and some type of sealer add, probably pva. i like the way orchid bark looks and it will give a minimalist 3d texture.

i have purchase enough pvc to make one cage, i have just received two of the trays, but i haven't opened the box to check them yet, i have the cement, trims, black aqua sealant etc, and new saw blades, this material doesn't cut well with an average handsaw, it tends to chip out, i have purchased some new blades for my chop and circular saws, they have a teeth count of 70 plus and will give a nice line with hopefully little tear out.

the trays were the parts mostly holding me up as the cages are essentially built around them, now their here (at least i think its them) i can hopefully make some updates.

rgds and merry christmas
edward


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## Whosthedaddy (Nov 29, 2009)

Chage the dirt bottom layer for water and you have what I planned for my Anaconda.

Using a (normal) viv cut out most of the floor rather than a few holes and have the tray underneath. Add loads of levels using cork and branches to bask and hide on.

I'd love to have some plastic vivs for the weight issue wooden ones have.

I love to see people thinking outside of the box as it were.

Is this plastic sheeting strong enough or will it need supports to stop it flexing?


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

the 300mm pieces on their own are quite flexible over a long length, 5ft+, but once joined to another piece via tongue and groove they become very rigid, the tongue/groove essentially becoming a full length brace, also the piece will be in a grove on all four sides from the trim so they will be very flex resistant and i don't foresee any issues, the only place i will specifically design extra support is the front edge of the false floor as this will essentially be floating, but the window frame will be used to fix its position.

rgds
ed

ps if u find urself with excess cork bark, keep me in mind please


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

the trays arrived for the subfloor drawer section, they are 100cm x 55cm x 15cm










the sides etc glued in place and stacked flat to cure, there is a sheet of paper between each piece



















rgds
ed


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## Caz (May 24, 2007)

How do think it's going to hold up against the back heat from the reptile radiator? Have you tested any yet?


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

i don't think that will be an issue, the radiator i mean, iv used a couple before and i just put some polysty in the "hollow" backside to help push down the heat, so there will be a gap between surfaces (filled with the polysty piece), though if it was an issue u could use a ceramic tile, or roof slate instead of polysty and that would dissipate a lot of the energy. iv found with radiators the thing to do is not to make them work like their a ceramic bulb, i always place a perch below them and the stats probe is never that far from them, maybe 8" max. so i consider them a good heat source for something that will will rest below them, rather than a heat source that heats an animal sitting on the floor. if that makes sense.

rgds
ed



Caz said:


> How do think it's going to hold up against the back heat from the reptile radiator? Have you tested any yet?


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## oakelm (Jan 14, 2009)

Sounds an interesting build, I like the repti rads they do a good job in the right setup. Only seen that plastic stuff used in frog vivs so far so interesting to see a snake version, always seen them using the ali frame with the stuff so curious to see how stable it is with the plastic corner pieces.


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

i think u hit the nail on the head there, it all comes down to stability and strength using those pvc trims, this is new territory for me as i almost always work with timber, i *think* it will work, but il know for sure soon enough. just waiting on my new chopsaw blade for the mitres.

one other issue bothers me too, my fancy rack has bearing extension runners that open the trays, but these will be the regular peasant way  just a push/pull tray, i may be too spoiled for that now.

ed



oakelm said:


> Sounds an interesting build, I like the repti rads they do a good job in the right setup. Only seen that plastic stuff used in frog vivs so far so interesting to see a snake version, always seen them using the ali frame with the stuff so curious to see how stable it is with the plastic corner pieces.


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## oakelm (Jan 14, 2009)

loxocemus said:


> i think u hit the nail on the head there, it all comes down to stability and strength using those pvc trims, this is new territory for me as i almost always work with timber, i *think* it will work, but il know for sure soon enough. just waiting on my new chopsaw blade for the mitres.
> 
> one other issue bothers me too, my fancy rack has bearing extension runners that open the trays, but these will be the* regular peasant way*  just a push/pull tray, i may be too spoiled for that now.
> 
> ed


:lol2: peasant way, oh the horror of the effort :whistling2:
First time I heard it called that, lol


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

once u go bearings, u don't go back 

ed



oakelm said:


> :lol2: peasant way, oh the horror of the effort :whistling2:
> First time I heard it called that, lol


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## Caz (May 24, 2007)

loxocemus said:


> i don't think that will be an issue, the radiator i mean, iv used a couple before and i just put some polysty in the "hollow" backside to help push down the heat, so there will be a gap between surfaces (filled with the polysty piece), though if it was an issue u could use a ceramic tile, or roof slate instead of polysty and that would dissipate a lot of the energy. iv found with radiators the thing to do is not to make them work like their a ceramic bulb, i always place a perch below them and the stats probe is never that far from them, maybe 8" max. so i consider them a good heat source for something that will will rest below them, rather than a heat source that heats an animal sitting on the floor. if that makes sense.
> 
> rgds
> ed


I get what you're saying. Be interesting to see how it turns out and how sturdy it is. Put a few facia boards up and it's strong stuff - I did think about using it to make a hatchling rack once.
Keep us updated : victory:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

i have the trims fixed to the very bottom and very top, and all the pieces cut to size apart from the back, i cant decide on the height, 60cm overall or 75cm, ie a cage section height of 18" or 24", files aren't climbers, though they can and do climb, il have to think on this a bit more.

outside bottom rear left corner, mitred trim, glued in place, panelled face out, though theres no reason it cant be inside, but i will be making simple backgrounds so a flat attaching surface is preferable










the sides and back are just push fit together with some dual channel trim off cuts (while i think on the height issue) these trims act like locks pieces and are a very nice tight fit, its very sturdy and none of the corners are glued yet, so i no worry's about strength or stability, though the face frame im making will be a major strength addition as it will support the glass door and must prevent distortion in use.

the tray just plopped down.



















floor piece just laid on, this will be attached by a single channel piece, this piece is really the only weight bearing piece, though there wont be much weight i have some nylon fixings i may add here, haven't decided yet 




























i gave myself 30mm shwiggle room (technical term) on each side of the tray, ie the cage is 60mm id larger than the tray. once the false floor is ready to be permanently fixed i will attach small pieces of acrylic to act as "runners" for the tray, so it doesn't move side to side when being pulled and pushed, the runners will keep it centred and straight.

rgds and everyone have a great new year.
ed


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

one tip, to get the best and tightest fit in the channel trims, cut the groove and tongue's off leaving a square edge, as this gives a 10mm thickness whereas the tongue is only 6-7mm and the groove is very flexible, its a little step but adds greatly to the overall strength.

all the front visible edges are the tongue side, this gives a nice round finish with no need of anything extra

ed


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## Sucuri (Feb 17, 2009)

Hey, 

what a great idea, great post, thanks for sharing.

I like the idea of the tray - hide, could you say where you got those trays from and what they are exactly (called) ? Potting trays of some sort?

Good luck with it all, will be keeping an eye on your progress.


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

thankyou, the trays are from here Pots & Trays*>*Garden Trays*>*Titan Garden Tray , i mentioned above their too shallow to be used on their own in a rack setup, now i have them in front of me i don't think that's true, i think they would make great trays for corns milks kings hogs etc.

rgds
ed

their a tenner a pop plus postage but their very well made, very stable and durable



Sucuri said:


> Hey,
> 
> what a great idea, great post, thanks for sharing.
> 
> ...


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## Sucuri (Feb 17, 2009)

Thanks for that!!


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

there are some large holes that need drilled, 3 for 68mm soffit vents in the back and one in the false floor to allow access into the subfloor tray

i use a 70mm holesaw










when drilling the holes only go halfway thru on the first side










then complete the cut on the other side, the pilot hole will keep u in line, this prevents break out around the edge of the hole. the vents will not be fixed here, they will be attached to the surface of the decorative background, it will have vent holes in the some positions.










any excess tongues and grooves are removed as they don't make a tight fit in the corner trims










once cut off the square profile makes a much better fit and has a better glue surface area










2 sides, back and bottom curing










i apply all the cement via a syringe and needle.










next to be done is the top added and fixed, false floor trimmed, glued and positioned, face frame made and fitted, glass door drilled and fitted, collar piece around access hole to prevent substrate falling in, backgrounds made etc etc etc

rgds
ed


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

a couple of points i didnt cover, u can use silicone instead of pvc cement, but u cant use regular or even aquarium silicone on pvcu, it will stick etc but it has a very poor bond, u need to use low modulus neutral cure silicone for pvcu, it takes longer to cure and doesn't have that vinegar smell, it generally doesn't come in black but a couple of browns white and clear.

the vents holes are in a diagonal line, from bottom left to top right when the heating is on the left side, if the heating is on the right then put the low vent on that side, otherwise all ur precious (and expensive) heating is going to escape throw that big 70mm hole 

do as many of the little jobs to the pieces before u assemble them, there's nothing worse than bending ur spine in 4 places just to get the drill in that corner.

the placement of the entry hole to the drawer section is important, it has to be at the front, if its at the back and u open the drawer while the snake is peeking out u will half it in two  that's common sense, so at the front, also i recommend that it be away from the light source as much as possible, the attraction of the drawer to the animals is its comforting darkness, u don't want to place ur fake sun directly above the hole and ruin the illusion do u  though this isn't essential, especially in large drawers like these, 1metre long. 

wash all the pieces in hot water and washing up liquid before assembling and gluing, it will make life a lot easier.

i have to wait till my local glazier and timber merchants open to assemble the door, im thinking of a simple drop down frameless door, with three black plastic hinges into a timber frame around the front inside edge, maybe...

rgds
ed


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## oakelm (Jan 14, 2009)

Looking good so far.


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## DanielF (Oct 31, 2010)

loxocemus said:


> thankyou, the trays are from here Pots & Trays*>*Garden Trays*>*Titan Garden Tray , *i mentioned above their too shallow to be used on their own in a rack setup, now i have them in front of me i don't think that's true, i think they would make great trays for corns milks kings hogs etc.*
> 
> rgds
> ed
> ...


There pretty huge arent they? LOL
They also make great trays for Growing on.. Boas, Retics, Burms, Rock Pythons, Indian Pythons.. & Adult.. Corns, Milks, Kings, Rats, Ball Pythons, Male Dwarf Burms ect.. they can house alot of snakes!.. 
I have over 50 of these tubs.. here are a couple pictures from my PhotoBucket 

2003 Adult Male Dwarf Burm (they love the dark but not me LOL)









6-7ft Female Normal Burm









4-5ft Female Albino Granite Burm 









Also thanks for the Link Ed i have been trying to find out where they sell these for ages! i got all mine for builders : victory:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

ur most welcome daniel  they would be good for growing up mice too if u bred ur own, good thick plastic.

i used to do the whole window thing, but over this last couple of years its become obvious that's its of no interest to them, not in the slightest, when i see them roaming their more interested in the ceiling or digging, they shwizz past the window like it doesn't exist, their a lot of effort too, but i think its not worth it, unless u like to look in i suppose 

rgds
ed



DanielF said:


> There pretty huge arent they? LOL
> They also make great trays for Growing on.. Boas, Retics, Burms, Rock Pythons, Indian Pythons.. & Adult.. Corns, Milks, Kings, Rats, Ball Pythons, Male Dwarf Burms ect.. they can house alot of snakes!..
> I have over 50 of these tubs.. here are a couple pictures from my PhotoBucket
> 
> ...


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## DanielF (Oct 31, 2010)

loxocemus said:


> ur most welcome daniel  they would be good for growing up mice too if u bred ur own, good thick plastic.
> 
> i used to do the whole window thing, but over this last couple of years its become obvious that's its of no interest to them, not in the slightest, when i see them roaming their more interested in the ceiling or digging, they shwizz past the window like it doesn't exist, their a lot of effort too, but i think its not worth it, unless u like to look in i suppose
> 
> ...


I done the window thing once & now i have just gave up & your right it is hard, you can never get one looking like the next.. i find windows are only needed with snakes that are breeding who need to be light cycled an alot dont even need light cycles.. 
ARS Racks & Freedom Breeders come in soid grey tubs so there is no difference between these & them apart from colour


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## Whosthedaddy (Nov 29, 2009)

Any updates Ed?

Daniel mentioned Pro Rack and they do make a set up similar in style to yours but at over £1000 not cheap at all. Its one that I am trying to aim at with my double decker RUB but unlike the File snakes, I want it to be see through for my Anaconda.


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

mines will be around £100 for the same thing but not as pretty, that's very pretty, not 1k pretty though but still niiice, though the same costs buys enough material for a 4x2x2, its just i didn't want that size, so there's been offcuts flying everywhere.

not much of an update, but some none the less, im still waiting on the pvc substrate collar for the false floor, (plumbing coupler 68mm £2 ebay) and i dont want to fix the floor till its done, otherwise it will be ten times harder to do, im getting the frame timber this week, maybe hard oak or soft pine, il see how i feel.

the cage in the livingroom now it doesn't stink, minus the top (which is complete) and the false floor which im still fiddling with.
its very light, with both missing pieces on it u could still lift it with one hand, once door and drawer are added it will be heavier, but still easily manageable by one person.










the floor with open mitres and untrimmed side pieces, these have to be cut with the door frame in mind, or that will come back to bite u in the ass, as this is hollow material the open cut wall of the hole will be filled with silicon










the upturned tray on the upturned floor, i got the oversize just about perfect by luck, i figured 30mm per side sounded about right 

there will be a channel piece on either side of the tray and one at the back to make the tray run straight and stop where i want it, otherwise it would wiggle everywhere and id go insane on it with a saw












thats about it just now, im going to do as many things as i can before the floor and top are glued, the tray runners obviously, measure for the background inserts, place and fix the heatpad, place and fix the rep radiator on the top, trying to screw one in a complete cage does my neck in 

rgds
ed



Whosthedaddy said:


> Any updates Ed?
> 
> Daniel mentioned Pro Rack and they do make a set up similar in style to yours but at over £1000 not cheap at all. Its one that I am trying to aim at with my double decker RUB but unlike the File snakes, I want it to be see through for my Anaconda.


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## DanielF (Oct 31, 2010)

Try these there alot better then Rep-Rads so i have been told.. 
Pedigree Pens - Flat Panel Heaters


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

i used something similar once, it was metal surface with white gloss paint and a red led, it didn't get that hot, though i suspect a doggy one would, but, rep rads are cheaper, i think cheapest iv found is @£45 posted, or thereabouts. and their ceramic, i love the ceramic stuff, takes me back to the old trough shape ceramic heaters 

im using a lighting i havent used before on these a compact bulb, odd looking ones too, either 6500 or 7000k, im playing with the idea of live plants but thats doomed to failure, i just know it is and i havent even started that bit, i did buy an honest to goodness live plant type organism though 

ed



DanielF said:


> Try these there alot better then Rep-Rads so i have been told..
> Pedigree Pens - Flat Panel Heaters


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

great job by the way mate cant wait to see the finished pice but do i need glasses or have i just seen snake racks with out light completely shorely thats not a natural enviroment for the snake as they in the wild would get light im deff in favour of adding windows :devil:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

the white ones in the background?, they each have a 9w aquarium fluorescent light built into the hollow polycarbonate shelf's 

rgds
ed



berry1 said:


> great job by the way mate cant wait to see the finished pice but do i need glasses or have i just seen snake racks with out light completely shorely thats not a natural enviroment for the snake as they in the wild would get light im deff in favour of adding windows :devil:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

ps the top 2 have sunbeams in them and they prefer no lighting whatsoever, mines are cb though and tolerate it, but in general sunbeams should be kept unlit. not every species like lights, especially nocturnal ones.

rgds
ed


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

2003 Adult Male Dwarf Burm (they love the dark but not me LOL)
image

6-7ft Female Normal Burm
image

4-5ft Female Albino Granite Burm 
image

Also thanks for the Link Ed i have been trying to find out where they sell these for ages! i got all mine for builders : victory:[/QUOTE]

i actually ment these as im a favour of keeping snakes in racks but i think they should have a window to represent the day and night cycle like with leos their nocturnal but a light in the day is still advised actually a very bright light is recomended even though they dont like light as its important to represent the day and night cycle as i said but your racks look fine with the windows in the front


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

some pics to help, the sunbeams, hate the light, detest it with a passion, i could leave their drawer open with the light on and they wouldn't attempt to escape, its almost like a leash around their neck. species with very small eyes are generally extremely light shy.




















how i installed the lights



















there's a nice mild heat from those tubes that spreads through the hollow shelf piece and adds a little air heating, id love to say i planned it that way but it was just a happy accident 

rgds
ed


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

oooh i thought u meant me 

sorry

ed



berry1 said:


> 2003 Adult Male Dwarf Burm (they love the dark but not me LOL)
> image
> 
> 6-7ft Female Normal Burm
> ...


i actually ment these as im a favour of keeping snakes in racks but i think they should have a window to represent the day and night cycle like with leos their nocturnal but a light in the day is still advised actually a very bright light is recomended even though they dont like light as its important to represent the day and night cycle as i said but your racks look fine with the windows in the front[/QUOTE]


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## hippyhaplos (Jan 12, 2010)

Looking good... you get a lot of tub for your money with them!

Those sunbeams are stunning btw!!!


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

muchos grassyarse :2thumb:

ed



hippyhaplos said:


> Looking good... you get a lot of tub for your money with them!
> 
> Those sunbeams are stunning btw!!!


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

thats actually a really nice rack set up you have and dont worry you dont have to explane your self but thats a lovely snake any way im really liking your pvc cage it looks an interesting build looking foreward to the finished pice :no1:


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## DanielF (Oct 31, 2010)

berry1 said:


> i actually ment these as im a favour of keeping snakes in racks but i think they should have a window to represent the day and night cycle like with leos their nocturnal but a light in the day is still advised actually a very bright light is recomended even though they dont like light as its important to represent the day and night cycle as i said but your racks look fine with the windows in the front


Having kept snakes in tubs without lights for many years with no ill effects i see no problem in keeping them this way.. Freedom Breeder Racks.. ARS Racks.. & many more Rack builders & Breeders mainly use tubs with no windows.. why? - it lowers the snakes stress levels alot!.. For some it makes them breed easier.. they settle in a whole lot quicker.. & they feed better..
They feel safe in soild tubs more then translucent tubs.. because to them soild tubs are just one big hide ie: a cave, a hole, inside a tree, inbetween rocks ect.. in the wild you dont see snakes just out in the open like the animal channels make them out to do..
Light cycles are the main reason snakes go off there food & for hatchlings, juvs & subadults you dont want that so these tubs cancel that out..


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

wowww chill matey i didnt mean to offend you i was just pointing out that just because the animal doesnt like light doesnt mean their shouldnt be light like a leo wouldnt come out of its hid with 2 or 3 150 watt basking bulbs but they still should have atleast one of these lights : victory:


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## DanielF (Oct 31, 2010)

berry1 said:


> wowww chill matey i didnt mean to offend you i was just pointing out that just because the animal doesnt like light doesnt mean their shouldnt be light like a leo wouldnt come out of its hid with 2 or 3 150 watt basking bulbs but they still should have atleast one of these lights : victory:


Oh no i wasnt offend LOL sorry if you read it like i wasnt having a go.. but at the end of the day if the animal doesnt get anything from a light why waste your time & money.. i have also kept Leo's in these tubs for years with no problems.. many other big well known breeders dont use lights in tubs for Leo's & snakes.. its only in the UK were no lighting is frowned upon


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

i didnt say it would cause ill affect and i no plenty of breeders use them with out lights but really whats the point if you cant see the animal i love racks but i think their much better with a window


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

ladies, please, pick ur hand bags back up 

ed


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

on a completely different topic, lighting!

im going to choose between these, one is a fancy ceramic composite compact flourescent, 13w 6500k



















i have two types of these, one 7000k and another is @5500k i think, their 80 led lights, i love these, i think their are perfect for our hobby, no heat, cheap to replace, long lasting, easy to find. love em'










both of those use the gu10 fitting, im using the ceramic version of the gu10, though its not needed here, its more often used with the small gu10 halogen's that get obscenely hot and would easily damage a plastic fitting. but the ceramic version is cheap and easy to get so why not.



















i haven't decided on the position within the cage, il know when their complete and i might even wait till the cork branches are in. its possible i could use 2, maybe a combination of types, but i highly doubt it, mehelya have small eyes and a blazing artificial sun will definitely not tickle their funny bone. fitting wise im going the easy to make route, il bore a hole in the ceiling to allow the bulb to be flush with the ceiling, with just a little blob of hot glue to fix in place, hot glue cures almost instantly as it cools, its hold is easy to break, so its a good way forward here.

iv also filled the cut edges of the 68mm holes, vents and drawer access holes, i used marine sealant because its just a filler and not as a glue, as i mentioned previously marine and similar silicone's are not ideal for use with pvcu, the bond is quite poor, i don't need to fill those cuts as they will be covered and inaccessible, but i don't like the idea of a void i cant get to, where mites could set up shop, possibly build little mite schools and warn their little un's of the "proventAmite wars" and how to avoid them. 

rgds
ed


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

enough timber stock to make two cage face frames and a little rolling dolly for them to sit on.










the substrate collar, its a 68mm coupler, the hole is 70mm cut using my soffit saw.



















its about 4 inches high, there will be 2 inches of substrate, so it will work well i think. u can cut them down etc etc if u wish with a simple hacksaw.

nxt job - i have a used aquarium donated by a neighbour that im going to take apart then cut strips of glass for tray runners and substrate barriers.

rgds
ed


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

good progress i like it can i ask a quick question where did you get those led bulbs and the fittings do b&q sell the fittings 
thanks :2thumb:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

id be very surprised if b&q didn't haven't them, though ebay will be cheaper, its where i got mine

ceramic gu10

GU10 MAINS VOLTAGE LAMP HOLDER CERAMIC LAMPHOLDER on eBay (end time 14-Jan-11 19:25:31 GMT)

80 led bulb

GU10 Energy Saving Led Bulbs (24,48,60,80 Led`s) on eBay (end time 14-Jan-11 12:10:03 GMT)

rgds
ed


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

thanks mate ill get them off ebay youve give me a great idea im re doing my edge as a nano reef and im shore youve heard the lighting is [email protected] and no good for corals so i think the 80 leds could be a cool light mod :2thumb:

thanks :lol2:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

if u buy the bulb from this seller choose "cool white" in whatever led version u choose, its much brighter than "warm white".

rgds
ed



berry1 said:


> thanks mate ill get them off ebay youve give me a great idea im re doing my edge as a nano reef and im shore youve heard the lighting is [email protected] and no good for corals so i think the 80 leds could be a cool light mod :2thumb:
> 
> thanks :lol2:


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

thanks mate ill get cool white as i do need the max brightnes so thanks agen for the help and check the thread out when i make it they should make nice reefs :mf_dribble:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

one sort of placed together, the inside isn't particularly pretty, but i never much of an effort to keep it so as there's going to be side and rear backgrounds made.


























there'sa problem though, i don't particularly like it, its still missing its face frame and door obviously, but i dunno, its not right, il probably stare at it for a week or two, then decide.

rgds
ed


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## haunted-havoc (Aug 6, 2009)

i know what you mean. something isnt quite right.

i think its the tray doing to for me. i think if you put a hinged door on the front to hide the tray during day to day use it would improve the aesthetics of it.

but i think it will look alot better once the doors and decor are in

top notch so far though


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## berry1 (Sep 25, 2010)

i disagree with the op and you i think its totally right and everything fits in as far as im concerned i think youve done a great job and should be proud of it :mf_dribble: : victory:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

*update, completion etc*

well after 3 weeks of staring i still dont like it, i wont be finishing this one nor building the 2nd, i just dont like the building process with this material, though the cage is interesting i just cant like it, no matter how much i try, and for me, thats the death nel' on a project.

so with the stack of timber iv kicked numerous times i built another rack, sort of


































its a rack for my dvd collection, i have a little under 4000 just now, this rack may get me close to 5500 'ish maybe 

rgds and thanks for ur comments
ed


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## DanielF (Oct 31, 2010)

loxocemus said:


> well after 3 weeks of staring i still dont like it, i wont be finishing this one nor building the 2nd, i just dont like the building process with this material, though the cage is interesting i just cant like it, no matter how much i try, and for me, thats the death nel' on a project.
> 
> so with the stack of timber iv kicked numerous times i built another rack, sort of
> 
> ...


Thats alotttt of DVD's :lol2:
Atleast you can still use the Garland tub though :notworthy:


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## loxocemus (Sep 2, 2006)

the entire process was worth it just to get those two garland tubs, a couple of friends were visitng recently and where loking at the cage, but im like "loooook at the tub, isnt it beautiful"" theyll have to bury me with my tubs and my cork branches, il give snakes or cages away but the tubs and cork stay here :2thumb:

ed



DanielF said:


> Thats alotttt of DVD's :lol2:
> Atleast you can still use the Garland tub though :notworthy:


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## DanielF (Oct 31, 2010)

loxocemus said:


> the entire process was worth it just to get those two garland tubs, a couple of friends were visitng recently and where loking at the cage, but im like "loooook at the tub, isnt it beautiful"" theyll have to bury me with my tubs and my cork branches, il give snakes or cages away but the tubs and cork stay here :2thumb:
> 
> ed


:lol2: nice one! you gotta love Garland they have never let me down


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