# Size of vivarium. Please help! Age of



## SilverSpooni (Mar 28, 2010)

Looks like my ball python didn't take it mouse again. I've tried feeding it in the dark and i tried when it active at night even using the heat trick. Now i get the feeling its ill or stressed with the size of the viv. Now my question is what's the best size of this Ball python? I've attached a image but i really don't know what the size is and im not really good at guessing. Please help! I really don't want to regret buying a python even though i knew they are problem feeders and i don't want it to become a problem feeder from its juvenile age. Apparently its feeding on medium mouse and its five to six months old.


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

you'll probably be posting the picture while i type this... but how big is the viv it's in and how busy is it? also, how long have you had the royal? i've had one which refused to feed but one day the probe slipped and bumped the heat up.. he seemed to like it a bit hotter and never missed a feed in a warmer viv.


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## SilverSpooni (Mar 28, 2010)

God damn Jess is pissing me off. The vivarium is three feet and i think shes under a on feet. Its not really that busy. Its in my room and most of the time im at work. Ive had for sixteen days. Now that i think about it im think im worrying too much but i really don't know if i should be or shouldn't be worrying. How long did you have to wait till it was successful feed? I knew i should have bought a Borneo blood python. 



Meko said:


> you'll probably be posting the picture while i type this... but how big is the viv it's in and how busy is it? also, how long have you had the royal? i've had one which refused to feed but one day the probe slipped and bumped the heat up.. he seemed to like it a bit hotter and never missed a feed in a warmer viv.


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

the viv is possibly too big, might be worth making it busier as they are quite secretive.
Also, is the heat mat on the side wall the only heat source? as that won't give off much heat. You'd be better putting it under the substrate to give a warm area on the floor.


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## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

How are you heating the viv, if thats a pic above the heat mat is no good on the wall.
What are the temps and with what type of thermometer are you measuring them with.
Again if thats the viv it needs loads more hides, logs fake plants anything to fill it up


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## SilverSpooni (Mar 28, 2010)

I don't barely use that heat matt but there is a large heater under the substrate. I think im going to buy a one feet Faunarium. Still don't know if that's the right size. 



Meko said:


> the viv is possibly too big, might be worth making it busier as they are quite secretive.
> Also, is the heat mat on the side wall the only heat source? as that won't give off much heat. You'd be better putting it under the substrate to give a warm area on the floor.


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## chewy86 (Mar 12, 2009)

buy a 33ltr rub, solder holes in the lid and sides of rub for ventilation. put a xl exo terra cave in there and a water bowl in cool end. Sit the rub on top of a 17x11 heat mat inside the viv with windows shut, on a stat. covering between a 3rd or just under half of the underneath of rub. or heat viv with heat bulb and place rub on cool end more than hot. Keep temps 33-28 and humidity 50-60%. Dont handle except moving to clean rub untill he/she feeds.


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## SilverSpooni (Mar 28, 2010)

Appreciate the help dude  



chewy86 said:


> buy a 33ltr rub, solder holes in the lid and sides of rub for ventilation. put a xl exo terra cave in there and a water bowl in cool end. Sit the rub on top of a 17x11 heat mat inside the viv with windows shut, on a stat. covering between a 3rd or just under half of the underneath of rub. or heat viv with heat bulb and place rub on cool end more than hot. Keep temps 33-28 and humidity 50-60%. Dont handle except moving to clean rub untill he/she feeds.


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## chewy86 (Mar 12, 2009)

thats the cheapest option. Other option is a ceramic bulb holer, 150w ceramic bulb with pulse proportional stat. Put 3 xl exo terras on the back wall hot end, middle and cool. Medium water bowl both ends, keeping temps and humidity as with other option. What temps you using at the moment by the way?


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## emmabee (Oct 29, 2010)

Meko said:


> you'll probably be posting the picture while i type this... but how big is the viv it's in and how busy is it? also, how long have you had the royal? i've had one which refused to feed but one day the probe slipped and bumped the heat up.. *he seemed to like it a bit hotter and never missed a feed in a warmer viv.*




mine is the same! i have one thats ok with normal royal temps and one that wont feed unless left alone with higher temps! shes eaten 2 mice since nov. both in the last couple of weeks but is refusing again as weve had to move them and she had to be handled! she is also in a tiny RUB with hides ect and hardly any open space and when we try to upgrade her she doesnt feed!
also dont offer food too often as this can put them off!


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## Katkatkat (Mar 18, 2010)

chewy86 said:


> Put 3 xl exo terras on the back wall hot end, middle and cool.





chewy86 said:


> put a xl exo terra cave in there and a water bowl in cool end.


Why when he thinks the snake is only about a foot long are people suggesting xl hides? Surely it would feel more secure in a large or even a medium hide at that size?

Is the dial thermometer in the edge of the photo what you're using to measure the temperatures? If so, there's a chance the temps could be too low as the dial thermometers aren't known for their accuracy.

Have you some scales so that you can weigh her? That way you can keep an eye on her weight, not eating without weight loss isn't too worrying, it's when they start to drop weight that's a problem.


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## chewy86 (Mar 12, 2009)

snake looked 3-4ft in the pic and i only read that he didnt know how big it is. In that case do the first rub option but buy a 18ltr rub and a large exo terra cave placed in the middle sideways, with small water bowl on cool side. Use same mat and stat, temps and humidity and move into 33ltr at 1000g+ weight, ignore length with the same setup, just using xl cave and larger water bowl.


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## chewy86 (Mar 12, 2009)

sent the above on my phone internet lol at how it reads in bits.


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

SilverSpooni said:


> Looks like my ball python didn't take it mouse again. I've tried feeding it in the dark and i tried when it active at night even using the heat trick. Now i get the feeling its ill or stressed with the size of the viv. Now my question is what's the best size of this Ball python? I've attached a image but i really don't know what the size is and im not really good at guessing. Please help! I really don't want to regret buying a python even though i knew they are problem feeders and i don't want it to become a problem feeder from its juvenile age. Apparently its feeding on medium mouse and its five to six months old.
> 
> image


i once had a ball paython and a 3ft for adult is fine but.. as you say yours is 6 months so id go with a 30L long rub box.

another factor for ball pythons not eating besides being picky and other things, what is your heat? that to sometimes can have an effect, maybe its cold.


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Meko said:


> you'll probably be posting the picture while i type this... but how big is the viv it's in and how busy is it? also, how long have you had the royal? i've had one which refused to feed but one day the probe slipped and bumped the heat up.. he seemed to like it a bit hotter and never missed a feed in a warmer viv.


i agree, when i had one the ball python liked 90F ambient heat better like what you get when you install and non light emitting ceramic bulb and cage


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## SilverSpooni (Mar 28, 2010)

30L? Ive just bought a Exo terra 1.5 feet plastic faunarium. Thats okay right? Well the warm side is 120c - 140c and the cool side is about 75c to 80c. I just get the feeling the three feet viv is too stressful. Ive even bought a exo terra medium hiding cave that has moss in it which i wont be using yet because it aint shedding yet. I can imagine it being less stressful when its in a hide that it fits in and has less open space. 



Chrisuk33 said:


> i once had a ball paython and a 3ft for adult is fine but.. as you say yours is 6 months so id go with a 30L long rub box.
> 
> another factor for ball pythons not eating besides being picky and other things, what is your heat? that to sometimes can have an effect, maybe its cold.


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

SilverSpooni said:


> 30L? Ive just bought a Exo terra 1.5 feet plastic faunarium. Thats okay right? Well the warm side is 120c - 140c and the cool side is about 75c to 80c. I just get the feeling the three feet viv is too stressful. Ive even bought a exo terra medium hiding cave that has moss in it which i wont be using yet because it aint shedding yet. I can imagine it being less stressful when its in a hide that it fits in and has less open space.


omg your saying your warm side is 120c to 240c?? please says thats a typo?

warm side of a ball python viv should be no more then 90F (32c) 120c would be like burning point fior sure
your cool side however is about right
and like i said if its 6 months old a 3ft viv is to big


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## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

SilverSpooni said:


> 30L? Ive just bought a Exo terra 1.5 feet plastic faunarium. Thats okay right? Well the warm side is 120c - 140c and the cool side is about 75c to 80c. I just get the feeling the three feet viv is too stressful. Ive even bought a exo terra medium hiding cave that has moss in it which i wont be using yet because it aint shedding yet. I can imagine it being less stressful when its in a hide that it fits in and has less open space.



OMG :gasp:, at those temps you will cook the poor thing :bash:. Warm end needs to be between 32*C & 34*C & cool end between 23*C & 28*C. Personally i use RUBs for my Royals, these hold the temperature far better than the Exo Terra faunariums do as they haven't got all the ventilation like the faunariums have (used the faunariums when i first had snakes & had major problems keeping good temps), moved to RUBs & never have a problem & never looked back :2thumb:.


Ps Get yourself a 12L RUB, this will do the snake for quite a while & it will make it feel safe & secure as it will be more enclosed.


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## SilverSpooni (Mar 28, 2010)

Omg now someone tell me about faunarium bad point  
ill modify my one for better heating  
Omg ive been stupid and i have been reading my temp gun wrong! Argh. Smacking my head on the wall right now. Shes in her cool side right now so shes okay i suppose. That bloody thermostat is god awful and crap. Going to buy a better one soon. Thanks for the shout. Ive just put down to heating to 30c right now. Stupid me :'(



corny girl said:


> OMG :gasp:, at those temps you will cook the poor thing :bash:. Warm end needs to be between 32*C & 34*C & cool end between 23*C & 28*C. Personally i use RUBs for my Royals, these hold the temperature fair better than the Exo Terra faunariums do as they haven't got all the ventilation like the faunariums have (used the faunariums when i first had snakes & had major problems keeping good temps), moved to RUBs & never have a problem & never looked back :2thumb:.
> 
> 
> Ps Get yourself a 12L RUB, this will do the snake for quite a while & it will make it feel safe & secure as it will be more enclosed.


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## chewy86 (Mar 12, 2009)

33/33c-27/28c always served mine well mate plus 50-60% humidity.


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## SilverSpooni (Mar 28, 2010)

Oh sorry, ive recently put the heat up due to her scaring the crap out of me when she started making this funny squeeze noise. I read putting the heating up helps fight RI which i hope she don't have but im planning to take her to the vets on Monday  She ain't got any mucus build up or any other symptom but she did it like two days ago so i forgot to put the heating down. So ive dropped it down to 89F. The thing is im using a foam insulator at the same time. Its like 3mm thick. Just to make sure it dont get burns. Thanks dude 



Chrisuk33 said:


> omg your saying your warm side is 120c to 240c?? please says thats a typo?
> 
> warm side of a ball python viv should be no more then 90F (32c) 120c would be like burning point fior sure
> your cool side however is about right
> and like i said if its 6 months old a 3ft viv is to big


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## chewy86 (Mar 12, 2009)

Mate seriuosly get the faunarium sat on a heat mat with a mat or pulse stat get the temps at 33c-28c and keep humidity at 60%. Keep it in a warm room around 80f. make sure the heat mat covers nearly half the bottom of the rub's floors space or atleast a third. Ri's can kill snakes quite quickly from when these symptoms start, if the husbandry isnt corrected quickly.


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## SilverSpooni (Mar 28, 2010)

18ltr? How many feet is that? Sorry but whats a rub? Still aint got the slang terms yet. 




chewy86 said:


> Mate seriuosly go get a 18ltr rub and heat mat with a mat or pulse stat get the temps at 33c-28c and keep humidity at 60%. Keep it in a warm room around 80f. make sure the heat mat covers nearly half the bottom of the rub's floors space or atleast a third. Ri's can kill snakes quite quickly from when these symptoms start, if the husbandry isnt corrected quickly.


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## chewy86 (Mar 12, 2009)

changed it to your faunarium mate as that should be fine a rub is a really useful box a well used tub for snake keepers. if you are struggling with temps just tape some of the holes up in the lid untill temps are fine but obviously make sure there is some ventilation. 17x11" heatmat with 100w mat stat will be fine and only £30-40.


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

SilverSpooni said:


> 18ltr? How many feet is that? Sorry but whats a rub? Still aint got the slang terms yet.


rub is Really useful box, they can be baught at some stationary shops but mostly staples, they come in Litre sizes and shapes, but there most appealing becaught of the click locks type thing to hold the lid down making it vertually escape proof.

the way it gets converted to a snake or other reptile home is putting tiny air holes on the cool side in the lid


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

SilverSpooni said:


> Oh sorry, ive recently put the heat up due to her scaring the crap out of me when she started making this funny squeeze noise. I read putting the heating up helps fight RI which i hope she don't have but im planning to take her to the vets on Monday  She ain't got any mucus build up or any other symptom but she did it like two days ago so i forgot to put the heating down. So ive dropped it down to 89F. The thing is im using a foam insulator at the same time. Its like 3mm thick. Just to make sure it dont get burns. Thanks dude


 if your fighting RI that could be why its off its food, with ball pythons being picky eaters ther are always going to be tons of reason to controbute to it not eating.

if your using the heat method to fight RI u might be ok with hot end at 93F but also make sure your humidity level is right and not to high because if its to hot and damp in the air thats where the RI infects start.


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## chewy86 (Mar 12, 2009)

Usually r'is are caused by either low temps, too low or high humidity/damp environment and also bacteria in the air from dirty vivs or other snakes with ri's


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Really Useful Box 33 Litre: Amazon.co.uk: Office Products
this is a link to a 33L im sure this would be more fitting for your snake, try have about 3 hides and and some clutter like fake leaf or rocks


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

chewy86 said:


> Usually r'is are caused by either low temps, too low or high humidity/damp environment and also bacteria in the air from dirty vivs or other snakes with ri's


 yes to high or to low temps with dampness in the air or in the bedding


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