# Costs of a corn Snake



## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Hey, i'm hoping to get a corn snake in the not too distant future, as my first snake and first reptile.

Now i've already got the go ahead from the family, i've got room for the vivarium and i've combed through care sheets, forums and information sites for details of how to look after, so i'm all ready, but my only problem is cost.

You see, i'm a 16 year old boy and i have no job... so i can't spend a huge amount on a pet...
I've got a brilliant reptile shop near me with all the gear i could use, but it's all very expensive fancy stuff. And of course, i expect them to push me towards the more expensive side of the items. Here is a half-decent idea of the quote they gave me for a set-up, excluding snake and decorations.

1* Signature Series vivarium 3ft - £119.95
1* PR Basking spotlamp 60w - £3.45
1* Eurorep spotlamp fitting with plug and lead - £8.95
1* ZM analogue reptile thermometer - £6.12
1* Habistat Heat Mat 17x11inch 20w - £20.03
1* Habistat heat mat thermostat 100w - £32.95
1* PR heater guard large - £17.99

Total - £209.44


Now, i've seen some great homemade vivarium's but i'm not the most handy man when it comes to DIY. I seem to break things, and i don't trust myself that much to put my snakes life in my hands. I do kinda want something that looks nice and clean-ish and like it wont break in 2 days.

Is that total realistic or what should i be looking for instead?

All help is appreciated, thanks.


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## LolaStar (Jul 2, 2010)

Are you wanting a hatchling or an adult corn? If you want a hatchling a 3ft viv would be much too big to start with, they're better off in RUBS or faunariums, which are way cheaper and will last a good few months. It would give you time to save up for a bigger viv too. I think my large flat faun was about £18 :2thumb:


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

heres a good site with corn snakes that can be delivered for only £30 odd, they also do complete setups suitable for hatchlings to adults 
Snakes - Livestock - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop
Snakes - Starter Kits - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I'm looking for a hatchling preferably.
The only problem with me using a RUB/Tub, is that my mother seems to be super pro-animal/snake without even researching them. And so she see's keeping a snake in a RUB as cruel.

And thanks for the website with starter kits...
I think i may get the Standard kit and then get a digital thermometer seperate, since the deluxe is too expensive for me...

Plus i'm hesitant to buy livestock online because i'd like to look at them and handle them before i buy... especially as this is my first one. x] But thanks.


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

whatever you feel best with, but i cannot recommend blue lizard enough. their stock is amazing and at exceptional prices! their livestock ive heard is also amazing quality


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

hiya

u can keep babies in faunariums.

or buy the adult size tank and put the snake in a faun in the tank.

you wouldent use a heat mat with lamp, just a heat lamp on a dimming thermostat.and for an adult corn you would wont a 4ft viv


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## snakesandscales (Oct 6, 2009)

Tatter said:


> Hey, i'm hoping to get a corn snake in the not too distant future, as my first snake and first reptile.
> 
> Now i've already got the go ahead from the family, i've got room for the vivarium and i've combed through care sheets, forums and information sites for details of how to look after, so i'm all ready, but my only problem is cost.
> 
> ...


Thats what your local rep store charges? Thats bloody rediculous. My latest snake cost £150 with all the equiptment. Try looking for alternative products mate...


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

You don't need a light, so you don't need the guard.

My basic set up consists of

Viv/RUB
Heatmat
Thermostat (for mat)
Water dish

Then hides etc, I make myself (plant pots, ice cream tubs etc) substrate is kitchen roll and I put things in there for entertainment, branches etc I find and sterilise. A hatchling from a breeder on here is about £10 if you're happy with a normal/wild type (which are beautiful), the rest scour the classisifieds! Only thing I would get new is a mat and stat : victory: 

A 3ft viv can be bought for £35 new. Look around! But..... DON'T put a hatchling in a viv anyway! Keeping them in RUBs in NOT cruel, putting a tiny baby in a huge viv where it feels unsecure and may stop eating, or it may escape, is cruel. All my babies are in clip lid boxes (not even RUBs, they're expensive when you have as many as me).


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

emmilllyyy said:


> heres a good site with corn snakes that can be delivered for only £30 odd, they also do complete setups suitable for hatchlings to adults
> Snakes - Livestock - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop
> Snakes - Starter Kits - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop





emmilllyyy said:


> whatever you feel best with, but i cannot recommend blue lizard enough. their stock is amazing and at exceptional prices! their livestock ive heard is also amazing quality


 Thanks for the links and recomendations its always great to hear that we are doing good!!!

Yes like everybody has said young cornsnakes are fine in Faunariums thats the best way of raising them as there is no risk of them escaping unless the lid of left open accidentally etc... and it isnt too large so it shouldnt put them off of their food, you can go with a 3' wooden vivarium to start with but their is always the risk of the snake escaping as they can be quite difficult to secure and somtimes they can go off feeding if they are kept in a large vivarium so make sure you pack it out with hides, plants, wood etc... We do a complete starter kit with everything you need with a wooden vivariumd for around £120 and its free delivery over £50, we also do a complete faunarium starter kit too!


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

CPT BJ said:


> Yes like everybody has said young cornsnakes are fine in Faunariums thats the best way of raising them as there is no risk of them escaping unless the lid of left open accidentally etc... and it isnt too large so it shouldnt put them off of their food, you can go with a 3' wooden vivarium to start with but their is always the risk of the snake escaping as they can be quite difficult to secure and somtimes they can go off feeding if they are kept in a large vivarium so make sure you pack it out with hides, plants, wood etc... We do a complete starter kit with everything you need with a wooden vivariumd for around £120 and its free delivery over £50, we also do a complete faunarium starter kit too!



i thought adult corns need a 4' wooden viv


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

fardilis said:


> i thought adult corns need a 4' wooden viv


He said to start with


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

mstypical said:


> He said to start with


faun to start with then an adult viv, costs way to much to go to 3ft then 4ft


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## beaniebopps (Oct 4, 2009)

If you really wanted a wooden viv then a 3 foot x 15" should be fine providing you put in lots of little hides. Even a hatchling should cope with that. Bear in mind he is after a corn snake hatchling guys, not a royal, and they really aren't THAT agoraphobic. I've sold hatchlings to people who have moved them straight into 3 foot vivs and not one of them stopped eating.

Swell reptiles are doing the vivexotic vivariums really cheap at the minute, cheaper than everything mentioned so far, and the vivexotics ones are nice! 

As everyone else has said, you don't need the lamp and guard. A heat mat is fine. YOu haven't stated where you are but I was selling my corn snake baies for £10 and if you have a look in classifieds on here I'm sure you could find another breeder doing the same thing. That way you can go and have a look and handle etc first. 

So assuming you want the 3 foot wooden viv I make the total cost as follows:

Snake baby £10-£15
Wooden viv from Swell Reptiles £42.50 VivExotic 36in Compact Vivarium Ellmau Beech
11" x 11" heat mat £15
Mat stat £20
Aspen bedding £4
Digital thermometer £10
Water bowl £4 (or free if you find something suitable like a ramakin or tea light holder in the house)
Hides £4 each or free if you make some!

So potentially everything including the snake should only be about £100.


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## Anthul (Dec 23, 2010)

rubs are fine if you put in some air holes, there's threads of how to set up a rub on here. corns 'should' be ok in a 3' viv unless you've got a larger female in which case a 4' would be better. it's all about preference of what you want for your snake, you won't need a heat lamp as corns digest via belly heat you can stick in a uv bulb or something similar for light in the viv for you to see the snake as corns don't really need it. as stated it's all about what you want for your snake.


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

The blue lizard one looks okay-ish? And for a FULL kit for £122, it's not super expensive.

I live in Northampton by the way, it's like just South of Leicester.

The problem i have with RUB/Tubs is my mother... she's instantly got this thing against keeping a snake in a small tub because she thinks it's cruel (Before actually reading anything about snakes i might add.)

I've currently got £40, soon to be getting another £50 at the weekend. And then i've got chores to do which will give me more.


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## jadem23 (Jan 5, 2011)

Tatter said:


> The blue lizard one looks okay-ish? And for a FULL kit for £122, it's not super expensive.
> 
> I live in Northampton by the way, it's like just South of Leicester.
> 
> ...


Hun, get in touch with corn morphs on here, he is in northampton and has some stunning babies for £10-£20! 
Just get a faunarium for £15
Mat £10
Mat stat £20
Use kitchen towel for substrate, I use hamster houses for hides and ramekin dishes for water bowls... You could get really everything you need including the snake for under £50 :2thumb:


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

beaniebopps said:


> If you really wanted a wooden viv then a 3 foot x 15" should be fine providing you put in lots of little hides. Even a hatchling should cope with that. Bear in mind he is after a corn snake hatchling guys, not a royal, and they really aren't THAT agoraphobic. I've sold hatchlings to people who have moved them straight into 3 foot vivs and not one of them stopped eating.
> 
> Swell reptiles are doing the vivexotic vivariums really cheap at the minute, cheaper than everything mentioned so far, and the vivexotics ones are nice!
> 
> ...


Maybe not agoraphobic, but they can certainly escape between the glass doors, or through a drilled hole. Just something to bear in mind : victory:

And I have 2 that won't eat in anything but a waxwom tub, agoraphobic ones do exist!


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I would love to be able to get everything i wanted for under £50... i could get it soon, and then save up til xmas time to get the more advanced gear for when he grows. But as i said, MOTHER won't allow a little tub -.-

and who is this guy? Who sells morphs in Nhampton? I'd kinda like to meet him and have a talk with him.


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Tatter said:


> I would love to be able to get everything i wanted for under £50... i could get it soon, and then save up til xmas time to get the more advanced gear for when he grows. But as i said, MOTHER won't allow a little tub -.-
> 
> and who is this guy? Who sells morphs in Nhampton? I'd kinda like to meet him and have a talk with him.


Mother needs to read and LISTEN - a hatchling WILL escape a viv!


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## Graylord (Jul 17, 2007)

If your house is centrally heated in the winter then tub, newspaper ,hide and water bowl will do it ,no additional heating needed for corns unless your house gets really cold .
Hatchlings need nothing bigger than a 5l-10l tub for quite a while


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## fishboy (Aug 7, 2007)

Tatter said:


> I would love to be able to get everything i wanted for under £50... i could get it soon, and then save up til xmas time to get the more advanced gear for when he grows. But as i said, MOTHER won't allow a little tub -.-
> 
> and who is this guy? Who sells morphs in Nhampton? I'd kinda like to meet him and have a talk with him.



Cornmorphs (Nige) is a mod on here.

He's a sound fella and usually has some really nice corns for sale. : victory:


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## jadem23 (Jan 5, 2011)

Tatter said:


> I would love to be able to get everything i wanted for under £50... i could get it soon, and then save up til xmas time to get the more advanced gear for when he grows. But as i said, MOTHER won't allow a little tub -.-
> 
> and who is this guy? Who sells morphs in Nhampton? I'd kinda like to meet him and have a talk with him.


A hatchling corn will escape a viv, a rub or faunarium is needed until the snake is 18months to 2 years! And even if it didnt escape, although im pretty sure it would.... it would be far too stressed out to feed properly anyway! Its not about what your mother wants im afraid! Its about the welfare of this snake!


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

you can put really small baby snakes in a braplast box or hatchling tub, these can be bought here
Triple 8 Reptiles - Braplast Stackable Reptile Box 
Hatchling Box

dont go putting a baby snake in a viv, it will probably escape or be too overwhelmed. even in a faun or rub they can get their heads stuck and die, ive heard it happen, and escape too.
either get a baby and house it properly or get an adult and have that in a viv


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## Lord Vetinari (Mar 4, 2011)

Tatter said:


> I would love to be able to get everything i wanted for under £50... i could get it soon, and then save up til xmas time to get the more advanced gear for when he grows. But as i said, MOTHER won't allow a little tub -.-
> 
> and who is this guy? Who sells morphs in Nhampton? I'd kinda like to meet him and have a talk with him.


Politely suggest that your mother does some research as well? Direct her to here... 

Thing is with a 3ft viv and a hatchling corn you will have an escapee in about 5 mins flat...


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

i went to a place called sheffield exotics and got a starter setup which will last for around a year (snake growth rate dependant) for £60 including snake. then buying a stat at £10, normally £20. so £70-£80 and you should be sorted for about a year


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I did, i've tried to politely and un-politely suggest she comes here, but i've been talking with Nige and i've arranged to go around his house this Friday hopefully and bring my mum to take a look at some Snakes, learn more about them and get some first hand advice for ME and my mum


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

mstypical said:


> Mother needs to read and LISTEN - a hatchling WILL escape a viv!


not nesserseraly


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

fardilis said:


> not nesserseraly


Everyone else agrees, better not to take the risk as a responsible keeper.


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

ive heard on numerous occasions of babies escaping from vivs. personally i would not house a really tiny snake in a RUB or faun as i have heard stories of them escaping or getting their head stuck in the gaps and dying:gasp:


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

emmilllyyy said:


> ive heard on numerous occasions of babies escaping from vivs. personally i would not house a really tiny snake in a RUB or faun as i have heard stories of them escaping or getting their head stuck in the gaps and dying:gasp:


I have clip-lid boxes, not RUB's and without that gap you're talking about, and just make holes around the sides :2thumb:


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

mstypical said:


> Everyone else agrees, better not to take the risk as a responsible keeper.


and this isn't true with fauns/rubs?


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

fardilis said:


> and this isn't true with fauns/rubs?


I don't use them either, as previously stated


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

mstypical said:


> I don't use them either, as previously stated



so what do u use


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

mstypical said:


> I have clip-lid boxes, not RUB's and without that gap you're talking about, and just make holes around the sides :2thumb:





fardilis said:


> so what do u use


See above


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

fauns and rubs are okay with larger younger snakes, around the 20-30cm mark. not tiny babies. especially not a large viv, they can get anywhere and everywhere and i cant imagine loosing a baby snake, letalone knowing i could have prevented it by housing it properly


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## beaniebopps (Oct 4, 2009)

Its ridiculous that this thread seems to have turned into a bit of a debate. 

We can't say a hatchling will escape this or that because it depends how its set-up! As long as there are no gaps that is the important thing.

The viv I kept a hatchling corn in was custom made for me, and the glass doors fit perfectly and accurately, there was literally not enough gap for even a hatchling to squeeze through. She had lots of hides etc and she was put into a small tub for feeding. She didn't seem stressed, she didn't stop feeding, I would go as far as to say she 'enjoyed' the space as she was out every night exporing. Shes now a happy adult female.

Other people I sold hatchlings to put them straight into vivs and none of them stressed or stopped eating. Obviously the possibilty of escape is a big thing, so any gaps need sealed and the doors need to fit perfectly.

But if the corn he gets is about 4 months old or more, and they are aware of how easily corns escape, then there is no reason why mother can't have her own way and put the snake in a viv.


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

beaniebopps said:


> Its ridiculous that this thread seems to have turned into a bit of a debate.
> 
> We can't say a hatchling will escape this or that because it depends how its set-up! As long as there are no gaps that is the important thing.
> 
> ...


You make good points, but it's hardly ridiculous that a debate happened, it's normal here and good to get different opinions : victory:


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

beaniebopps said:


> Its ridiculous that this thread seems to have turned into a bit of a debate.
> 
> We can't say a hatchling will escape this or that because it depends how its set-up! As long as there are no gaps that is the important thing.
> 
> ...



exactly

i still don't see how it can stress an animal out by being in a big tank.

i mean they normally come from quite big tanks called 'the wild'.


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

fardilis said:


> exactly
> 
> i still don't see how it can stress an animal out by being in a big tank.
> 
> i mean they normally come from quite big tanks called 'the wild'.


They probably get ate in the wild by bigger, badder animals. They die younger, don't have regular access to food and warmth, don't get help when they are hurt, and don't make it to half the age they do in captivity. Yeah, the wild is great!


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## bigd_1 (May 31, 2011)

mstypical said:


> They probably get ate in the wild by bigger, badder animals. They die younger, don't have regular access to food and warmth, don't get help when they are hurt, and don't make it to half the age they do in captivity. Yeah, the wild is great!


:censor:if there can make it in the wild then i think there and make it in a 3ft viv


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## Graylord (Jul 17, 2007)

mstypical said:


> I have clip-lid boxes, not RUB's and without that gap you're talking about, and just make holes around the sides :2thumb:


i use clip boxes and similar too, they provide a more secure housing as you say .


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

bigd_1 said:


> :censor:if there can make it in the wild then i think there and make it in a 3ft viv


I have no idea what you just said, but to clarify my point....

I DESPISE the 'In the wild' argument, it's utter tripe that people say without actually thinking it through... a life in the wild poses far more threats than being in captivity, but that aside, CB snakes have never lived in the wild, and so can't be compared to wild ones.


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Graylord said:


> i use clip boxes and similar too, they provide a more secure housing as you say .


I get mine from the local pound shop, the clips might not last a lifetime, but I can afford to throw them away once a hatchling outgrows them anyway, nice and hygienic :2thumb:


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## Hannah81 (Nov 19, 2008)

fardilis said:


> i mean they normally come from quite big tanks called 'the wild'.


None of my snakes came from "the wild", They're all captive bred in a box then housed in very small tubs - they know nothing of open spaces.

And a 3ft viv is fine for an adult corn, 4ft is not necessary.


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## Lord Vetinari (Mar 4, 2011)

You know what one easy solution would be right....

buy a juvie or adult...


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## Podarcis (Mar 1, 2010)

*Corn snake costs*

Firstly, don't bother with Snake Starter kits. A sub-adult/juvenile/adult corn snake will do fine in a RUB of appropriate size (all mine are). I know the temperature of my warm herp room, so none have heaters:gasp: or thermostats:gasp::gasp:, not even the sub-adults:gasp::gasp::gasp:. 

All eat, shed, defecate and, when I let them, breed. I have been keeping for years, and all the cornsnakes are rehomes or ones I have bred.

I use Hemcore substrate and provide a shelter and water bowl. Enrichment consists of handling, adding furniture and varying food items. Your mother's concerns are understandable, but snakes can feel much more secure in these. Good luck !


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

Podarcis said:


> Firstly, don't bother with Snake Starter kits. A sub-adult/juvenile/adult corn snake will do fine in a RUB of appropriate size (all mine are). I know the temperature of my warm herp room, so none have heaters:gasp: or thermostats:gasp::gasp:, not even the sub-adults:gasp::gasp::gasp:.
> 
> All eat, shed, defecate and, when I let them, breed. I have been keeping for years, and all the cornsnakes are rehomes or ones I have bred.
> 
> I use Hemcore substrate and provide a shelter and water bowl. Enrichment consists of handling, adding furniture and varying food items. Your mother's concerns are understandable, but snakes can feel much more secure in these. Good luck !


What do you feed your corns? I've only got Pinkies for my new one! 

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

they can eat stuff like rats, hamsters, quail, multimammates, hamsters and chicks. I wouldn't feel comfortable varying my snakes' diet as im worried theyll like one specific food item more and will stop eating any others so I just stick to rats:lol2:


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## Podarcis (Mar 1, 2010)

Don't worry, they won't stop eating everything else. Corn snakes will eat all sorts. Try getting rodents from a few different sources too.


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

Hannah81 said:


> None of my snakes came from "the wild", They're all captive bred in a box then housed in very small tubs - they know nothing of open spaces.
> 
> And a 3ft viv is fine for an adult corn, 4ft is not necessary.


but naturally when a corn hatches it has unlimeted space to roam, so how can it stress them out being in a tank thats 'to large' 

and a 4ft viv is nessersery for an adult corn (imo)


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## spider shane (Apr 16, 2010)

by me the shops do a snake for about £30 and the set for £40 ish its funarium thing with a heat mat and a bit of wood and some wood chips. what you said is way over priced


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

fardilis said:


> but naturally when a corn hatches it has unlimeted space to roam, so how can it stress them out being in a tank thats 'to large'
> 
> and a 4ft viv is nessersery for an adult corn (imo)


How do you know they're _not_ stressed 'in the wild'? Spoke to one? 

You CAN NOT compare CB animals to wild ones.


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## Dustcart (May 31, 2008)

I rarely buy from shops now. I use these people at the moment Reptile Supplies, Reptile Accessories, Reptile Products, Reptile Shops, Reptile Pet Supplies, Reptile livefoods, online reptile shop, Exo Terra, Zoo Med, They seem to have really keen prices for most things (not all). I have saved a fair few quid recently. Have a look and see if you can't get your total price down with these people.

Just my opinion. There's a recession on, why spend more than you need to?

Oh yeah, go on classifieds here and find a breeder. They will sell you a snake for far less than a shop. (Cheaper too!!)


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

spider shane said:


> by me the shops do a snake for about £30 and the set for £40 ish its funarium thing with a heat mat and a bit of wood and some wood chips. what you said is way over priced


 You would need to use a thermostat to regulate the heatmatt, our Cornsnakes start from £24.99 and we do a complete starter setup for £51.99 - Blue Lizard Basic Snake Starter Kit - Snakes - Starter Kits - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


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## whasupppp (Aug 31, 2011)

*cornmorphs*

I brought one of my babies from cornmorphs on here and i will definitely be going to him again for my next ones as I'm in Northamptonshire as well, i couldn't be happier and recommend him highly enough so i'd advise sending him a msg and see if it's ok to pop round to see him and what he has, he had some cracking corns for sale when i got mine. :2thumb:


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

Dustcart said:


> There's a recession on, why spend more than you need to?


Amen to that! 

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I am popping around to see cornmorphs tomorrow lol. xD Going to see his snakes and hopefully, he can speaks some sense into my mum. After that, it all depends on what she lets me get.


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## whasupppp (Aug 31, 2011)

Nige is a good bloke he wont steer you wrong. hope you can get what you want. :2thumb:


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## AilsaM (May 18, 2011)

When I got my hatchling corn the cost of the set up was about £40 which included large flat faunarium, heat mat, stat, digi thermom, hides, water dish, one of those round thermom's for the cool end and I paid £60 for my baby corn, all bought from a good reputable reptile shop.


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

Don't forget to post a pic of the snake you get  

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


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## Cheyenne (Aug 29, 2011)

Tatter said:


> I am popping around to see cornmorphs tomorrow lol. xD Going to see his snakes and hopefully, he can speaks some sense into my mum. After that, it all depends on what she lets me get.


There's really no need to spend a fortune, so perhaps have a look on classifieds or preloved and you may find a second hand set up? The Exo Terra Terrariums are really nice, and would last a hatchling a year or so (our 14 month old has just moved from the small exo into a proper viv). Maybe your Mum would prefer that to a RUB? Also, with Christmas not too far away that could be your present sorted and then a proper viv for next years Christmas too?
Good luck with it all


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Turns out, i had been planning to visit the wrong place and wasn't time to re-plan how to get to the actual place so i couldn't see Nige today, but maybe next week.

I've got a RUB, it's a huge thing but was the best i could do as i went to; wilko, poundland, 99 store, WHSmith and home bargains, staples wasn't open though D: So i ended up going to Argos...

We also found a huge petstore that we'd forgot about however, found it lacking in reptile equipment. While they had some stuff, it was mainly overpriced and their themostat was £69.99! I told them, quite rudely i'll admit, that it was out of order and i could get it half the price elsewhere. They have a medium/large water bowl for £10 and a decent size hide exo-terra make for £15... But i'm going to have a look online. They also had a heatmat (habistat), 17x11 for £20...
And so dial themometers which i didn't get and a bag of substrate for £5.

So i've only got my RUB at the moment, but i think that my mum is starting to come around to my side and hopefully i'm going to be getting more stuff soon... : victory: : victory:


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> Turns out, i had been planning to visit the wrong place and wasn't time to re-plan how to get to the actual place so i couldn't see Nige today, but maybe next week.
> 
> I've got a RUB, it's a huge thing but was the best i could do as i went to; wilko, poundland, 99 store, WHSmith and home bargains, staples wasn't open though D: So i ended up going to Argos...
> 
> ...


Thats extortionate, were far cheaper!!! - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Me and my mum are actually on your website at the moment, we've filled up a £30 basket with; thermometer, substrate, heat mat so far but we were wondering if 
Habistat Temperature Thermostat 300w - Thermostats - Reptile Heating - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop

Is a good thermostat to get. I looked at the £19.99 one for comments about it and found it to be not very good. Should i spend £30 on that one?


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> Me and my mum are actually on your website at the moment, we've filled up a £30 basket with; thermometer, substrate, heat mat so far but we were wondering if
> Habistat Temperature Thermostat 300w - Thermostats - Reptile Heating - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop
> 
> Is a good thermostat to get. I looked at the £19.99 one for comments about it and found it to be not very good. Should i spend £30 on that one?


 Hi, i personnally use Microclimate stats and we use them in the shop and highly recomend them! They are both equally good and both come with a 5 year warranty.

The 100w one would be ample for 1 heatmatt and saves you a tenner! - Habistat Mat Stat Thermostat 100W - Thermostats - Reptile Heating - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Would microclimate ones work with a habistat heat mat?

And thats the one that we didn't want to get because i've heard bad reviews about it...


Thanks for the reply though.


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> Would microclimate ones work with a habistat heat mat?
> 
> And thats the one that we didn't want to get because i've heard bad reviews about it...
> 
> ...


 They work with any brand!! We use loads of them in the shop and i use microclimate exclusively myself!! We find they are our most popular Thermostat instore and sell Hundreds of them!


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Which microclimate thermostat would you suggest would work well with a habistat 11x11 20w heatmat?


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> Which microclimate thermostat would you suggest would work well with a habistat 11x11 20w heatmat?


 This would be perfect! - Microclimate Ministat 100 - Thermostats - Reptile Heating - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Does it have a high fluctuation in the temperature with the off/on one?


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> Does it have a high fluctuation in the temperature with the off/on one?


 They will all fluctate within a degree or 2 with an on/off stat Pulse stats keep the temperature constant.


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## whasupppp (Aug 31, 2011)

CPT BJ said:


> This would be perfect! - Microclimate Ministat 100 - Thermostats - Reptile Heating - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


that's the stat i use for mine and i have never had a problem with them :2thumb:


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

CPT BJ said:


> Hi, i personnally use Microclimate stats and we use them in the shop and highly recomend them! They are both equally good and both come with a 5 year warranty.
> 
> The 100w one would be ample for 1 heatmatt and saves you a tenner! - Habistat Mat Stat Thermostat 100W - Thermostats - Reptile Heating - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


I got one of these on Wednesday from blr!

Have to say though, it doesn't seem to hold the temps that well, but that isn't blr's fault! Wish I could trade it for a pulse stat


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Dixi1801 said:


> I got one of these on Wednesday from blr!
> 
> Have to say though, it doesn't seem to hold the temps that well, but that isn't blr's fault! Wish I could trade it for a pulse stat


 On/Off thermostats will all fluctuate to a degree, but for most species it isnt a problem!!


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I've brought £53 worth of stuff from BLR, £9 from Amazon and a £10 box from Argos...

£70 for something the reptile shop quoted me £209

xD and their Corns are £40 while i'm hoping to get one for £15 from Nige (cornmorphs)


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> I've brought £53 worth of stuff from BLR, £9 from Amazon and a £10 box from Argos...
> 
> £70 for something the reptile shop quoted me £209
> 
> xD and their Corns are £40 while i'm hoping to get one for £15 from Nige (cornmorphs)


 You can always ave money when you shop around .


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

CPT BJ said:


> On/Off thermostats will all fluctuate to a degree, but for most species it isnt a problem!!


It's for a corn, and the temp is fluctuating between 25 or 26 and 28 or 29  think that's ok! 

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Unsure on two things now;
Does the heat mat go under the actual RUB, on the table, or does it go under the substrate in the RUB?

AND

What should i be feeding a Hatchling Corn on? I know Nige will probably tell me but i'd like to get some food in before i get one... thanks.


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Tatter said:


> Unsure on two things now;
> Does the heat mat go under the actual RUB, on the table, or does it go under the substrate in the RUB?
> 
> AND
> ...


Under a quarter/third of the RUB, and pinkies


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

So actually under the RUB? not the substrate?
and thanks, best place to get pinkies off the internet?


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

Actually under the rub mate yeah  and I wouldn't think you could buy pinkies online as they might defrost unless you use special shipping? Go to a local rep shop, cheap enough


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Thanks  i'm just wondering if my RUB will burn xD

and maybe, i'm going to inquire about frozen foods at my local pet shop, but i'm cautious of everywhere at the moment because all actual shops have tried to sell me stuff x2-x4 it's actual cost. So..


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

Tatter said:


> Thanks  i'm just wondering if my RUB will burn xD
> 
> and maybe, i'm going to inquire about frozen foods at my local pet shop, but i'm cautious of everywhere at the moment because all actual shops have tried to sell me stuff x2-x4 it's actual cost. So..


Can't speak about rubs burning as I've got a faunarium, and it has tiny feet type things on which elevates the faun from the mat! You could always make some feet for your rub!

And I think they're around the 25p Mark per pinkie at pets at home, but I know Surrey pet supplies sell them for 18p each but don't ship them! So anything about 25p to the 50p Mark would be what I'd expect mate!

As for the charges, I know places like pets at home charge a lot, but I find local reptile shops ok


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Tatter said:


> So actually under the RUB? not the substrate?
> and thanks, best place to get pinkies off the internet?


RS Reptile Supplies 



Dixi1801 said:


> Actually under the rub mate yeah  and I wouldn't think you could buy pinkies online as they might defrost unless you use special shipping? Go to a local rep shop, cheap enough


Yes you can, they're much cheaper for those of us with lots of snakes and are packed in insulated boxes so are usually still frozen, it's next day delivery.


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

mstypical said:


> RS Reptile Supplies
> 
> 
> 
> Yes you can, they're much cheaper for those of us with lots of snakes and are packed in insulated boxes so are usually still frozen, it's next day delivery.


Oh I see! Thanks for that! Might make things easier when winter hits harder! Don't stray from warmth unless I have to!


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Dixi1801 said:


> Oh I see! Thanks for that! Might make things easier when winter hits harder! Don't stray from warmth unless I have to!


Delivery is an issue though, most places it's more than a tenner but with RS it's only £5.99, however you have to be buying a fair few mice to save any money (I normally buy 200 at a time). And there's debate about how long they should be stored frozen, some people say 3 months max, so it depends how many snakes you have really : victory:


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## whasupppp (Aug 31, 2011)

from pets at home there 40p each or 4 for £1.40


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## pk93 (Jan 26, 2010)

Look in the sun classifieds : victory:

cheers PK


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

As already mentioned you want the heatmatt under the RUB, we ship pinkie mice but in a minium of 100 to help prevent them defrosting! - Large Mouse Pinks 100 Pack - Mice - Frozen Foods - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I've drilled holes in the top of my RUB for air but cautious of doing too many and losing too much heat... should i just do air holes over the cold side of the RUB? How many should i put? and should i just put them on the top?


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> I've drilled holes in the top of my RUB for air but cautious of doing too many and losing too much heat... should i just do air holes over the cold side of the RUB? How many should i put? and should i just put them on the top?


 The Heatmatt will only radiate heat about an inch above so you dont need to worry about losing heat, id put around 8 holes in the lid or alternatively on the sides.


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Okay, next question (Sorry for the many posts but i'm asking them as they come to me xD)

When feeding, i understand you don't handle them as it can cause regurgitation; so when it comes to feeding, am i right in thinking you remove it from the RUB to stop any aspen being consumed, put it in a smaller tub and then feed it, after it's fed, place the tub into the rub until the snake gets out of the tub it self and then remove the feeding tub? Or is it okay to handle the snake back into the RUB for about 10/15 seconds?


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> Okay, next question (Sorry for the many posts but i'm asking them as they come to me xD)
> 
> When feeding, i understand you don't handle them as it can cause regurgitation; so when it comes to feeding, am i right in thinking you remove it from the RUB to stop any aspen being consumed, put it in a smaller tub and then feed it, after it's fed, place the tub into the rub until the snake gets out of the tub it self and then remove the feeding tub? Or is it okay to handle the snake back into the RUB for about 10/15 seconds?


 I feed all mine in their cage/RUB and the same in the shop! If they do ensume a bit of aspen it is normally negligable and passes straight through i personnally feel that moving the snake out of the RUB is more stressful and can put them off of feeding, i would personnally feed it in the RUB and then not handle it for 48 hours to allow it to digest.


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## keegs (Oct 17, 2011)

Great thread! I'm new to all of this too and having read the last 10 pages you've answered 90% of my newbie questions - thanks!


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Hehe, Hopefully this saturday, probably gonna be getting a Sunkissed from Nige.
My amazon stuff should be delivered by tomorrow, BLR hasn't got back to me yet about it being dispatched but i assume it has, so either tomorrow or Thursday i'm hoping. 

I've not ordered a lot of hides but i do have some driftwood that i'm thinking of using, but i'd like to disinfect/bleach it before i put it in the RUB, so what solution is suggested? I'm going to soak it to clean it, then wash with plain water and then place straight into RUB.


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

your best bet would be getting some f10 and soaking it in that, letting it dry out then cook it:2thumb:


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

That does look like expensive stuff for not very much, would baby disinfectant work?


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> Hehe, Hopefully this saturday, probably gonna be getting a Sunkissed from Nige.
> My amazon stuff should be delivered by tomorrow, BLR hasn't got back to me yet about it being dispatched but i assume it has, so either tomorrow or Thursday i'm hoping.
> 
> I've not ordered a lot of hides but i do have some driftwood that i'm thinking of using, but i'd like to disinfect/bleach it before i put it in the RUB, so what solution is suggested? I'm going to soak it to clean it, then wash with plain water and then place straight into RUB.


 You will be emailed when your order has been dispatched.


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

Tatter said:


> That does look like expensive stuff for not very much, would baby disinfectant work?


I don't have a clue about baby disinfectant, but honestly f10 lasts longer than you think! everyone on here will vouch for me too (hopefully!:lol2 f10 is the best thing you can get, and you might as well because you know it's 100% safe:2thumb:


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

emmilllyyy said:


> I don't have a clue about baby disinfectant, but honestly f10 lasts longer than you think! everyone on here will vouch for me too (hopefully!:lol2 f10 is the best thing you can get, and you might as well because you know it's 100% safe:2thumb:


 It lasts forever!! It took me around 4-5 months to use up a bottle and if you buy it in the concentrated form you will pretty much never run out!! - F10 Super Concentrate 100ml - Cage Disinfectants - Reptile Cleaning - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I haven't had an email from BLR yet... D: I hope i get it for Saturday because the longer i put it off, the more i put Nige out and the more likely my mum will just say no...

I'll have a look at F10... Hopefully i can get some.


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> I haven't had an email from BLR yet... D: I hope i get it for Saturday because the longer i put it off, the more i put Nige out and the more likely my mum will just say no...
> 
> I'll have a look at F10... Hopefully i can get some.


 If you'd like to phone us we can chase your order up!! Our number is 01909 518808.


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

My mum has emailed you, and are you open currently?


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> My mum has emailed you, and are you open currently?


 Hi sorry we closed at 5, our Admin will try and get in touch with us ASAP if she hasnt already, if not you are more than welcome to give us a ring tommorrow.


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I've got my heatmat, stat and thermometer, the heatmat is under the RUB, stat is attached to the mat, stat sensor under the RUB, ontop of the mat, my thermometer sensor is inside rub and is about 1/2 from substrate.

My thermometer is showing 21.1c, my stat is turned fully up and has been like it for 20 minutes now... it doesn't seem to be increasing? Am i doing something wrong?


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Tatter said:


> I've got my heatmat, stat and thermometer, the heatmat is under the RUB, stat is attached to the mat, stat sensor under the RUB, ontop of the mat, my thermometer sensor is inside rub and is about 1/2 from substrate.
> 
> My thermometer is showing 21.1c, my stat is turned fully up and has been like it for 20 minutes now... it doesn't seem to be increasing? Am i doing something wrong?


 Heatmatts radiate heat about 1" above them so the thermometre prob needs to be under the substrate for an accurate reading.


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## Paul B (Apr 16, 2008)

put the thermometer on the top of the substrate. 21.2 is about room temperature.
Is it switched on ?
what size is the heat mat? 
Is the heat mat very warm to the touch?
Did you buy this equipment online ? 

Try putting the thermometer on the bottom of the rub under the substrate. If its reading about 100 there its too high as the snake will no doubt burrow under the substrate.

I always tape the sensor to the mat itself and set it to 35 which normally gives a suitable in viv temperature that will not cook the snake.

P


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Heatmat is 11x11.
The stat is plugged in, lights on. Heatmat is plugged into the stat plug...
Heat mat is warm but not super warm...
I brought the stuff from blue lizard reptiles, so yes, online.

I'll put the thermometer probe under the substrate... See if it changes much...

Edit: Just put the probe under the substrate, and it's shot up to 26.1 xD
Take some pictures too, i'll upload links to them as they'll be big...


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## Wilko (Mar 3, 2010)

Tatter said:


> I've got my heatmat, stat and thermometer, the heatmat is under the RUB, stat is attached to the mat, stat sensor under the RUB, ontop of the mat, my thermometer sensor is inside rub and is about 1/2 from substrate.
> 
> My thermometer is showing 21.1c, my stat is turned fully up and has been like it for 20 minutes now... it doesn't seem to be increasing? Am i doing something wrong?


Try putting the sensor for the thermometer in the substrate or one the bottom of the RUB?


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Heat Mat & Stat sensor
Microstat Box
Outside Thermometer
Thermometer Wire

Now, i've changed the stat temp and it's leveled out at 27.8/27.8... So i'm happy, thanks 

Edit: It's now dropping, 26.7 and still going, and the stat hasn't turned back on...


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## Lord Vetinari (Mar 4, 2011)

Tatter said:


> Heat Mat & Stat sensor
> Microstat Box
> Outside Thermometer
> Thermometer Wire
> ...


Its a mat stat then the temp may drop a fair bit before it kicks back in. Mine took a bit of fiddling with to get right over a bout a week. If you clear the thermometers memory you will be able to keep good track of the max/min over a day. 

Its nothing to worry about though. Excessive high temps are more worrying then droping a bit below the recomended min.


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I've just watched it and it cuts out at 28.3 and turns on at 27.2 so hopefully it'll be okay. I'm hopefully getting my corn tomorrow from Nige but sods law and all that.


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

YAY for more questions -.-

The snake will be kept in my room, which i like to play music, reasonably loud, watch films and play xbox. Is the sound from them going to affect the corn?

I also occasionally like to burn incense sticks, is the smoke from the sticks affect the snake?


All these things are at the far corner away from the RUB, but it's a tiny room.


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

Tatter said:


> YAY for more questions -.-
> 
> The snake will be kept in my room, which i like to play music, reasonably loud, watch films and play xbox. Is the sound from them going to affect the corn?
> 
> ...


they dont have ears, but sense things from vibrations so the vibrations might make it become stressed, its best to not play the loud music, or scream on the xbox! incense sticks can be toxic, along with other things like aerosols and sprays and perfumes, so its best not to have any of that in the room either: victory:


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Coolio... thanks for the help, Nige is feeling a bit down (strangely after a friday night ) today so i'm hopefully going to be getting it tomorrow xD


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Got my baby butter corn (male) today from Nige, not had time to measure as i wanted to get him settled as soon as possible. The only thing that i've noticed to be strange is that whenever i go near the RUB, and he's climbing somewhere, like up the side, and he see's me , he backs down and shy's away, like he's scared of me. But i'm sure it's just because he isn't handled loads and used to a person there all the time, also, i've put him in a smaller RUB and he just bury's himself, but i put him in the larger one and he's scooting around the RUB, looking at everything... I feel bad for putting him back in the smaller RUB...


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

Tatter said:


> Got my baby butter corn (male) today from Nige, not had time to measure as i wanted to get him settled as soon as possible. The only thing that i've noticed to be strange is that whenever i go near the RUB, and he's climbing somewhere, like up the side, and he see's me , he backs down and shy's away, like he's scared of me. But i'm sure it's just because he isn't handled loads and used to a person there all the time, also, i've put him in a smaller RUB and he just bury's himself, but i put him in the larger one and he's scooting around the RUB, looking at everything... I feel bad for putting him back in the smaller RUB...


Mine hides away when I go in, only had him a few weeks! Handle him whenever in home and he's fine when he's out of the faunarium  

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

It's not when i go in, even if i come near and look at him, he shy's away... i don't want him to assume i'm going to hurt him


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

Tatter said:


> It's not when i go in, even if i come near and look at him, he shy's away... i don't want him to assume i'm going to hurt him


I'd say frequent handling should sort it out if the hatchlings not used to handling this'll be why! Also... Pics needed!  

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Nige (The seller),has hundreds of snakes, i wouldn't expect he could handled them all often, so i expect he isn't used to being handled xD

and i'll take some pics, i tried to earlier but my camera's pretty bad and Monty loves to move loads, and so it was hard xD


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Tatter said:


> It's not when i go in, even if i come near and look at him, he shy's away... i don't want him to assume i'm going to hurt him





Dixi1801 said:


> I'd say frequent handling should sort it out if the hatchlings not used to handling this'll be why! Also... Pics needed!
> 
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


Age will sort that out. He's tiny, and feels insecure. Once he gets bigger, he'll be less nervous. Try not to handle more than 3 times a week and not after feeding, over-handling could just make him more nervous.


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Okay  What about the RUB? I mean, if he eats fine (I'll be feeding him Tues or Wed) in the larger RUB, can i keep him in that? He seems to prefer it to the smaller one.


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Tatter said:


> Okay  What about the RUB? I mean, if he eats fine (I'll be feeding him Tues or Wed) in the larger RUB, can i keep him in that? He seems to prefer it to the smaller one.


Yeah, most of mine prefer more space to less to be honest, if he's an established feeder already I wouldn't think you'd have any problems resulting from giving him space


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

Brilliant,  He's not missed a feed yet and shed earlier this week, so he should be feed properly. Although he seems more intent on climbing the walls of the rub to find a way out :')


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Tatter said:


> Brilliant,  He's not missed a feed yet and shed earlier this week, so he should be feed properly. Although he seems more intent on climbing the walls of the rub to find a way out :')


Sounds familiar  he sounds fine to me, don't worry so much and enjoy watching him


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I've got some pinkies  (10 for £3.80)
But how long do they normally take to fully defrost? Is there a way to see if they're fully defrosted yet? and is there a peak time to feed Monty? Or can he be fed at any time? (Asin the day)


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## Lord Vetinari (Mar 4, 2011)

Tatter said:


> I've got some pinkies  (10 for £3.80)
> But how long do they normally take to fully defrost? Is there a way to see if they're fully defrosted yet? and is there a peak time to feed Monty? Or can he be fed at any time? (Asin the day)


Pinkies only take a few mins in hot water or on a heat mat (just don't cook it!) to defrost. They will feel soft and squishy, and should be about skin temp with no cold spots. Rest it on the back of your hand and if you cant feel any difference in temp it should be good to go. 

Either that or if your organised leave them to defrost over night in the fridge. 

He can be fed at any time, though you may find that you get better feeding responses at certain times of day.


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## Dixi1801 (Apr 26, 2011)

Feeding may be the perfect time for a pic tatter


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I have pics! They're just blurry because i only have my phone, i have to do them myself and he moves CONSTANTLY. xD

and i've left it to defrost on a tissue for about 50 minutes now, in a plastic tub, i'll see about when it's defrosted enough...
My mum hates them lol


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

He just wasn't interested, so i've left it on a feeding dish, hopefully he'll eat later.


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

He ate! I put him into a smaller tub with a hide and the pinkie, he started eating it within 10 seconds, i am so happy 
Then (the smaller tub is inside larger tub), i took the lid off the smaller tub and put the lid in the larger one and he slithered out, and went and hid.


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## CPT BJ (Oct 30, 2010)

Good to hear that he's eaten, its always a big relief when a new addition has its first feed!


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

After feeding, are they normally quite active? Monty is more active then he was before the feed, he had an 1.5 hour rest, but now he's out and about again


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

Tatter said:


> After feeding, are they normally quite active? Monty is more active then he was before the feed, he had an 1.5 hour rest, but now he's out and about again


cause hes just fed, he's out 'hunting' for more food! you'll have to leave him 2 days for his food to digest and for him to calm down :2thumb:


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## Tatter (Oct 8, 2011)

I disturbed him resting for a minute to take these, i know they're really bad quality and the light i bad, but it's the best i can do at the moment.


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## cornmorphs (Jan 28, 2005)

Hi Ali, nice to have finally met you mate. I didnt realise this thread was here, or I would have helped in the meantime before we met.
sorry about the cock up with the address, no doubt there will be a few people on here who I have also sent to my house, while I have been sitting at my mums waiting for them to come and see the snakes lol..
and as for being ill?, that was no fun, my last weekend off until march and I was unable to move a great deal... all because of a simple cold lol.

anyway mate, glad you;re carrying on with the questions, and also glad you listened to most of what I said.. so with a little luck, the snake will carry on eating well, grow quickly and all will be good.
virtually all babies from the dad of that butter eat well and grow very quick, he does seem to have decent all round genes as corns go..
so good luck with him, and give me a shout if you have any more questions..
thanks mate...
oh, and one more thing which I forgot... I did the same pairing 2 years ago, and kept back 1 male and 2 females from the clutch for future breeding (next year now), I didnt get round to showing you, so if you ever come back then ask to see those, you will then see just how nice the snakes turn out, they are amazing deep yellow. That will be the effect of the bloodred het coming through, they actually look like they are butter bloodreds rather than what they actually are which is butter het bloodred and motley.


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