# Just what is the 'ideal' warm side temperature for leopard gecko's?



## GoldenBen

I say this because i've heard a lot of people say you shouldn't go over 90F and that 90F is all ready too hot or hot enough. I have on/off thermostat's and have them set so they turn on at 90F and turn off at 93-94F. Is this TOO hot like some people say? If so i will adjust them and turn them down slightly. I also wonder if this is why some of my leo's urates have been orange, maybe due to slight dehydration?

Everybody seems to say something different on this but what are people's opinions on the best temperature inside the hide? And why?


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## dramen

All three of my leos are set at 90-91 which is about the maximum you want. 
Mostly its suggested being 31-33 due to thats the temperature that is needed for digestion.

Too high and the leopard gecko probably just wont sit there as its too hot. If its between those ranges and your leo is sitting on it then your fine.

Again the urates being orange is normal usually because urate comes out first and the poop second so it stains the urate as it comes out.


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## GoldenBen

dramen said:


> All three of my leos are set at 90-91 which is about the maximum you want.
> Mostly its suggested being 31-33 due to thats the temperature that is needed for digestion.
> 
> Too high and the leopard gecko probably just wont sit there as its too hot. If its between those ranges and your leo is sitting on it then your fine.
> 
> Again the urates being orange is normal usually because urate comes out first and the poop second so it stains the urate as it comes out.


My leo's seem to spend the vast majority of time in their warm hides, but do explore equally as much. I think i'll try and readjust slightly, but these on/off thermostats are a nightmare, you adjust really slightly and it throws it off by a few degrees lol. Before it was even worse and would turn on at around 85F and off at 95F. Thanks for the reply


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## Gregg M

There is no single ideal basking temperature. What is ideal is a wide thermogradient. The hot spot can be over 100 degrees as long as the gecko can move away from it. In my natural set ups, my leos have a hot spot that is at 105 to 108 degrees F and they use it frequently for short periods of time throughout the day. The thing is, they do not need to stay there long to get their core temps up to the ideal degree.

All you are doing by offering them an 88 to 90 degree hot spot is limiting their options.


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## GoldenBen

Gregg M said:


> There is no single ideal basking temperature. What is ideal is a wide thermogradient. The hot spot can be over 100 degrees as long as the gecko can move away from it. In my natural set ups, my leos have a hot spot that is at 105 to 108 degrees F and they use it frequently for short periods of time throughout the day. The thing is, they do not need to stay there long to get their core temps up to the ideal degree.
> 
> All you are doing by offering them an 88 to 90 degree hot spot is limiting their options.


Interesting, to most people that would seem way too hot, although every gecko is different. I think i'll experiment slightly with the temperature and monitor them, to see how they react to it


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## Big Red One

Gregg is right, leos can hope with temps higher than the 'recommended'.

I have my hot ends at 34/35c, certainly doesn't kill them......
:whistling2:

As long as they can get away from heat they will, they won't sit in heat that is excessive, they will simply move.

In the same way people that panic that they are in the cold side 'too much' are panicking for no reason. They are there because they want to be, no other reason. Reptiles sometimes want to be at a cool temperature just as much as they want heat. Many of my leos spend large portions of their time in cooler areas. They don't die.


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## dramen

Big Red One said:


> Gregg is right, leos can hope with temps higher than the 'recommended'.
> 
> I have my hot ends at 34/35c, certainly doesn't kill them......
> :whistling2:
> 
> As long as they can get away from heat they will, they won't sit in heat that is excessive, they will simply move.
> 
> In the same way people that panic that they are in the cold side 'too much' are panicking for no reason. They are there because they want to be, no other reason. Reptiles sometimes want to be at a cool temperature just as much as they want heat. Many of my leos spend large portions of their time in cooler areas. They don't die.


Thinking about it this does make sense, I have noticed since getting my too largest leos into 3ft vivariums i have upgraded their mats to a larger size. This has resulted in one of them spending a lot mroe time in a middle hide and moving o the hot hide after eating. (They now have 3 instead of two they had in the 2fters). 
Gary however is the lazy ass and wont move out of his hot hide so after he has shed wondering if its worth raising his temperatures a bit.


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## TheMomDotCom

So, expanding on this topic (newbie here) I am getting a leo hatchling tomorrow, attached is our set up. I currently am using a 10 gal for now while he’s smaller- I have a heating mat on the bottom on the warm side with his humid hide - what are you guys using as far as heating? I’m using the mat and just the 150w UVB 10 UV I have the mat connected to a heating pad set at 92° thermostat it’s been up for about an hour and has reach 74, I’m hoping by tonight it reaches 90°


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## shelrina

TheMomDotCom said:


> So, expanding on this topic (newbie here) I am getting a leo hatchling tomorrow, attached is our set up. I currently am using a 10 gal for now while he’s smaller- I have a heating mat on the bottom on the warm side with his humid hide - what are you guys using as far as heating? I’m using the mat and just the 150w UVB 10 UV I have the mat connected to a heating pad set at 92° thermostat it’s been up for about an hour and has reach 74, I’m hoping by tonight it reaches 90°


Hello! As far as I know it‘s more confortable for them if the heat comes in form of a lamp, the ones you get in the store usually heat up to the right temperature. Additionally you add a UV-Lamp for during the day because the Geckos can‘t see our daylight as good as we do. You should‘t keep them alone tho, they really like to be in company. Also the terrarium should have a minimus size of 120cm / 47inches. 
you defintely should get for each gecko a wet box! Its necessary for shedding. Also add some possibilities for climbing, they really like it here you see my terrarium:


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