# The nervousness of holding a snake



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

When i was 9 yrs old we had a small grass snake, nothing scary no big deal.

Today i went to the reptile shop to look at all the different snakes, the owner pointed out they had a full set up going on special offer which included a snake, the snake is a "apparently" a "Texas Rat snake", kinda looks like the corn snake but slightly chunkier. I said to the guy, arnt Texas rat snakes kinda bad tempered?? he replied with Only in the wild.....
He then took it out of the case and handed it to me, it was about 3ft long. 

Well after it being 24 years since i last held a snake, and even that a small one of about 2ft, i felt nervous that i would hurt it when holding it or i might accidentally do something that would prompt it to attack me because i hear there like that in the wild, even if its said that there not like that in captivity. 

I bought it but there holding it for me till i can make the space for it (about a week) then they are delivering it to my door.

i watch the videos on you tube and ive been reading about them today and im worried ill be to nervous to hold it, with it being quite a while.

Dont get me wrong im not scared of snakes, just worried it might attack me or something.

does anyone have any advice to get over that nervousness? 

also i wanna ask, when cleaning it out, where do i put a 3ft snake while im cleaning the vivarium??


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## rum&coke (Apr 19, 2009)

Ok calm down for a minute and realize how irrational your thinking is.
Why would a 3ft snake attack you when your too big for it to eat and your also too big for it to beat in a fight.
Snakes don't attack people for no reason at all.
The worst thing that will ever happen is it may bite you one day and that will probably be ether because it mistakes your hand for food or out of fear. And a snake bite will hurt alot less than a bite from a kitten or a puppy and I bet you don't worry about kittens and puppy's do you.
See fear of your snake attacking you is totally irrational and silly.


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## Bexterminate (Jun 9, 2010)

Hey, no worries I felt exactly the same holding my snake for the first few weeks  Well in fact I was fine holding it but quite nervous about taking it out the vivarium because I thought it would strike. I just wore a thin pair of gloves for a bit which made me feel much more comfortable, then when we'd both relaxed I took them off :blush: Now I'm absolutely fine, it's shocking how lovely snakes are, they don't deserve their bad reputation at all! If it does bite it doesn't hurt, just a bit of a shock because of the speed. As for where you put it when you're cleaning the viv, I'd just buy a large RUB (Really useful box) to put it in. Hope this helps, and you'll be over the nervousness in no time :2thumb:


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## bobby (Sep 26, 2006)

It probably wont bite you and if it does it wont hurt...


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

rum&coke said:


> Ok calm down for a minute and realize how irrational your thinking is.
> Why would a 3ft snake attack you when your too big for it to eat and your also too big for it to beat in a fight.
> Snakes don't attack people for no reason at all.
> The worst thing that will ever happen is it may bite you one day and that will probably be ether because it mistakes your hand for food or out of fear. And a snake bite will hurt alot less than a bite from a kitten or a puppy and I bet you don't worry about kittens and puppy's do you.
> See fear of your snake attacking you is totally irrational and silly.


i think you miss read me, i hear what your saying about they might bite out of fear or think my hand is food, the concern is i might accidentally cause it to be scared though if i handled it wrong or something


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## bobby (Sep 26, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> i think you miss read me, i hear what your saying about they might bite out of fear or think my hand is food, the concern is i might accidentally cause it to be scared though if i handled it wrong or something


You have nothing to worry about, just TRY and be calm and confident, it's just something you'll get better at with time. We all feel nervous at first....


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## Bexterminate (Jun 9, 2010)

kaleluk31 said:


> i think you miss read me, i hear what your saying about they might bite out of fear or think my hand is food, the concern is i might accidentally cause it to be scared though if i handled it wrong or something


They seem to be OK as long as you don't make a grab for the head, and make sure it always feels secure. Picking a snake up by the end of it's tail is a no no as my cousin found out... still can't believe he did that!


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Bexterminate said:


> Hey, no worries I felt exactly the same holding my snake for the first few weeks  Well in fact I was fine holding it but quite nervous about taking it out the vivarium because I thought it would strike. I just wore a thin pair of gloves for a bit which made me feel much more comfortable, then when we'd both relaxed I took them off :blush: Now I'm absolutely fine, it's shocking how lovely snakes are, they don't deserve their bad reputation at all! If it does bite it doesn't hurt, just a bit of a shock because of the speed. As for where you put it when you're cleaning the viv, I'd just buy a large RUB (Really useful box) to put it in. Hope this helps, and you'll be over the nervousness in no time :2thumb:


RUB box, (really useful box) is that like one of those storage boxes with a lid?

i suppose ill have to make holes so it can breathe. 
do i need to put substrate down or will just the container do while im cleaning it out?

probability only take 10 mins to clean it out

BTW thank for the reply


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## Bexterminate (Jun 9, 2010)

kaleluk31 said:


> RUB box, (really useful box) is that like one of those storage boxes with a lid?
> 
> i suppose ill have to make holes so it can breathe.
> do i need to put substrate down or will just the container do while im cleaning it out?
> ...


It sure is  It would be fine without substrate I reckon, or even just a deep cardboard box would do fine. And you're welcome :2thumb:


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Bexterminate said:


> They seem to be OK as long as you don't make a grab for the head, and make sure it always feels secure. Picking a snake up by the end of it's tail is a no no as my cousin found out... still can't believe he did that!


so when getting it out of a wooden viv , what is the proper way to take the snake out?


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## Bexterminate (Jun 9, 2010)

kaleluk31 said:


> so when getting it out of a wooden viv , what is the proper way to take the snake out?


I just slide my hand under and lift it out, apparently if you go from above they can think your a predator. Guess you could buy a snake hook as well if you'd rather do that?


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## shesha_royal (Aug 4, 2010)

as long as you support its body weight your fine... i like to handle mine the way i would handle a baby .... i generally cradle it in my arms, then he slithers around and explores where he pleases,,, then when he slithers off too far or somewhere i dont want him to be (i.e. heading down the side of my sofa cushion) i just tend to lift him under his belly about 4 inches back from his head and move him back to where i want him, he will nomally sniff around for a bit then curl up in the crook of my arm against my boob where its warm.... as for when you clean him out, keep him in a R.U.B (really useful box) you can get them from asda, staples, places like that. just buy an appropriate sized box...they are quite inexpensive... i use mine to feed my royal in too, as it stops him swallowing substrate, and reduces and hand/food related attacks as mine associates his silver R.U.B with feeding not my hand, and i ususally clean mine out while hes munching...
T-rex bio fresh is brilliant stuff for cleaning out with btw... smells lush and gets rid of any unwanted odours. expensive but lasts and isnt toxic which is great if your worried about what to clean with like i was, as snakes are sensitive to smells and i didnt want him getting distressed cos his tank smelt different.


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## Spider Call (Mar 23, 2007)

Rat snakes are gorgeous <333 and become very tame. As long as you don't grip it tightly you won't hurt it, just keep a loose hold on it. Also wouldn't advise touching the head as most snakes don't appreciate it. To begin with we all hold them like they are made of glass, I still do when I get a new one, but you soon learn what you can and can't do with the individual. 

As for cleaning out... Pillow case. Just pop the snake in and tie it up. They can breathe and are quite happy being in a small dark place.

Congratulations on your new snake, I hope you have many years together. 

Em


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## cardinalgrom (Aug 23, 2010)

ive got a texas and she is a pussy cat, if she is annoyed you can tell and thus leave her alone for half an hour, theyre big softies really and even if a bite were to occur its more shock than anything.

itll be a great snake if you handle it well, im after a male for my female infact, as they are my fav snake ever


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## feorag (Jul 31, 2007)

Spider Call said:


> As for cleaning out... Pillow case. Just pop the snake in and tie it up. They can breathe and are quite happy being in a small dark place.


Beaten to it! :2thumb: For years I used a canvas snake bag, but a pillow case is just as good. You can tie and knot in and it becomes totally escape proof.

As far as handling is concerned, I just slide open the viv front and put my hand inside, giving the snake time to recognise my scent and know that I'm familiar to it, then I just put my hand underneath and lift it out, using my other hand to lift out the other half, so to speak.

About 3 years ago I got a 4 year old female corn and she's been great at handling and I never thought she would strike. I take her out fundraising for the wildlife sanctuary where I work and have given her to many people to hold and she's been fine. YET..... only a few months ago she shed her skin and my 13 year old granddaughter (without asking me :bash, who has handled her loads of times decided to take the skin out and Calleigh tagged her! 

I know why - she would have just opened the viv and put her hand in to get the skin and Calleigh, who tends to live in her cave most of the time, would have been defensive, because I'm the only one who ever takes her out of the viv, so she would have been wary of the instant approach of an unfamiliar smell. And by the way although she drew blood from 3 of her 4 fangs, my granddaugher said it didn't hurt and believe me she's a proper softy!!

I don't take my snakes out when I spot clean - I just clean around them. I only take them out when I'm doing a full clean out and disinfect.

Nowadays I have RUBs for them because I take them out quite often, and they're good for keeping them warm too with rechargeable handwarmers under the newspaper. In the beginning I put Monty in his snake bag and carried him around under my jumper to keep him warm! :lol2:


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## CollaredLizardGal (May 17, 2010)

Although mine is not a Texas Rat snake (he is an albino black rat snake) he is absolutely golden (i have also replied on your other thread) he is blind and so I talk to him clearly and calmy (let him know it is me) then I put my hand in flat on the substrate, then I let him smell me then I pick him up, firmly so i do not drop him but not too tight that he can't slither through my hand. He is at floor level which does make it a bit easier, if he is by the door I just let him out. For spot cleaning (poop mainly) I can just lift him out, pop him on the floor and clean up. or if he is in his cave I just reach around it depending on where poop is. If I am going for a full clean then I would put him in pillowcase or rub as it takes a bit longer but to be honest I rarely do this as I like to clean up his messes straight away I wipe down the glass on ocassion and change his water every other day, this way he stays clean permanently. 
Be confident in your ability it is highly unlikely you will startle or hurt him unless you go at him over his head and like a bull in a china shop, calm and slow but just take hold of him (from underneath if poss) and lift him. If he looks in a bad mood ( you can tell as he will shake his tail or try to hiss) when you open the viv just leave him and try again a bit later, i find talking to them helps when you open the doors.


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

feorag said:


> And by the way although she drew blood from 3 of her 4 fangs,


Fangs? Corns don't exactly have _fangs_ like a cat, dog or venomous snake, let alone a given number - they've got four upper rows of approximately-evenly-sized teeth and two lower rows of teeth.

I've got a Texas ratsnake male - who was a nervous little shoestring as a baby, but is now calm when handled. He does want to explore while handled, but the only time he's ever actively BITTEN was when he was being probed at the shop we got him from.


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## CollaredLizardGal (May 17, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> I've got a Texas ratsnake male - who was a nervous little shoestring as a baby, but is now calm when handled. He does want to explore while handled, but the only time he's ever actively BITTEN was when he was being probed at the shop we got him from.


 
LOL I think I would bite if I were being probed too! :gasp:


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## Kalouda (Sep 1, 2010)

I don't really know why you're putting yourself through this stress if you're so worried about handling the snake. Either way you'll be fine and rat snakes aren't aggressive or wont strike for no reason (same can be said about alot of snakes). Just be slow and gentle when handling, again like it's been said don't go for the head. You must take pictures when you've got the snake.


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Kalouda said:


> I don't really know why you're putting yourself through this stress if you're so worried about handling the snake. Either way you'll be fine and rat snakes aren't aggressive or wont strike for no reason (same can be said about alot of snakes). Just be slow and gentle when handling, again like it's been said don't go for the head. You must take pictures when you've got the snake.


i will take pictures when it arrives Thank you everyone for there kind advice


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

CollaredLizardGal said:


> LOL I think I would bite if I were being probed too! :gasp:


(carry on movie voice) ding....dong lol


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

cardinalgrom said:


> ive got a texas and she is a pussy cat, if she is annoyed you can tell and thus leave her alone for half an hour, theyre big softies really and even if a bite were to occur its more shock than anything.
> 
> itll be a great snake if you handle it well, im after a male for my female infact, as they are my fav snake ever


ok just a theory but... lets say you get it out of the viv and suddenly it becomes defensive and you know its in a mood but its already out of the viv , how would you get control and put it back in the vivarium?


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> ok just a theory but... lets say you get it out of the viv and suddenly it becomes defensive and you know its in a mood but its already out of the viv , how would you get control and put it back in the vivarium?


You just plain put it back. If you get bit, it's not the end of the world.

A snake that's in a mood is likely to eagerly head back to its preferred hides anyway.


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## bobby (Sep 26, 2006)

Just relax.....seriously......


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## Malco76 (May 31, 2010)

:2thumb: I worried about my amber corn at first but now he roams around the floor and even goes and has a sniff at the dog then flits off to try get under the couch, lol, he's amazing and makes me want another one, a bit ambitious at the moment, lol :2thumb:


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## cardinalgrom (Aug 23, 2010)

kaleluk31 said:


> ok just a theory but... lets say you get it out of the viv and suddenly it becomes defensive and you know its in a mood but its already out of the viv , how would you get control and put it back in the vivarium?


id take the nippy bite like a man and put her back..easy, wheres the difficulty witht that? 
on the other hand if it was my dog is run like :censor:!!!


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## CollaredLizardGal (May 17, 2010)

I have found they don't tend to get defensive after they are out of the viv, more when you are trying to get them out, but don't worry you will be fine.


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## snakes4me (Aug 19, 2007)

Could I ask where are you getting this snake from?


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

snakes4me said:


> Could I ask where are you getting this snake from?


from a shop in the next town from me.

i know there experts at the shop when it comes to what you need to have a snake as a pet but i cant deny what concerns i have about the full setup.

if it doesn't have a thermostat ill need to buy one

the heat bulb has no guard but even if the bulb is 18 inch up it still concerns me

if it only comes with the substrate for one bedding ill immediately have to buy more

because in my town they dont sell frozen rodents ill have to go back to that shop the next week after getting the snake or buy another 3 frozen rodents to last me the month.

if it doesnt have a hide ill have to buy one.

basically saying if all my concerns are confirmed then i know its going to immediately cost me another 60-70 uk pounds


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

Yes, you need a guard for the bulb - ratsnakes are very good at climbing!


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## CollaredLizardGal (May 17, 2010)

If it says "FULL" set up - this should include appropriate hides and water dishes etc, I would check the pricing against other places to be honest and check with them what the "FULL" setup includes, as you should not have to pay more than you need to. As for food when we bought each of our snakes the shop gave us a months supply of food in with them, I would consider having a look around before jumping on the one set up, it also depends how cheap it is??


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

CollaredLizardGal said:


> If it says "FULL" set up - this should include appropriate hides and water dishes etc, I would check the pricing against other places to be honest and check with them what the "FULL" setup includes, as you should not have to pay more than you need to. As for food when we bought each of our snakes the shop gave us a months supply of food in with them, I would consider having a look around before jumping on the one set up, it also depends how cheap it is??


well i was kinda like kid in a candy store as they say.
so i already ended up paying just cos the shop guy said it was a full setup

ive just spoke to the guy at the shop and he is only giving me 1 week food for free which means i need another 7 for 2 months supply to save me going out of town every week which would be expensive.

i need a hide of about 18 inches because it turns out this snake is about 4ft long.

im gonna need a branch so it can climb, which means i need to buy a heat bulb guard from them at the shop.

i have to buy extra substrate cos the only substrate i get is what's already in the viv.

i think im looking at another 50-60 pounds 

im getting the 3ft viv, heat mat,heat bulb and fitting, the substrate that's already in there, 1 weeks food,water bowel oh and the snake for £210


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## feorag (Jul 31, 2007)

CollaredLizardGal said:


> If it says "FULL" set up - this should include appropriate hides and water dishes etc, I would check the pricing against other places to be honest and check with them what the "FULL" setup includes, as you should not have to pay more than you need to. As for food when we bought each of our snakes the shop gave us a months supply of food in with them, I would consider having a look around before jumping on the one set up, it also depends how cheap it is??


Have to agree - that's not right!

if they say full set up, then it should be *everything* you need to house a snake adequately and safely and your thermostat is the most important item after the heat source and a bulb guard and hide is also essential!!

A branch is 'furniture' and not necessarily a necessity, but sorry the bulb guard and hide are and that should be part of your full set up! :bash:


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## loulou87 (Sep 10, 2010)

i was like this with my bearded dragon! youll be fine its because its new and you need to get used to it. it wont attack you unless you threaten it- i was actually more scared of the crickets and locusts- I completely love my reptile now and im not scared- its all about it being the unknown but youll soon realise you had nothing to worry about and youll be totally fine with it and laughing at people that wont hold it- you will fall in love with him oncce he does something really cute and youll fid you want to hold him over and over- when he first falls to sleep on you or snuggles you! chill out and enjoy it


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> im getting the 3ft viv, heat mat,heat bulb and fitting, the substrate that's already in there, 1 weeks food,water bowel oh and the snake for £210


That sounds pretty expensive, especially if you aren't getting TWO thermostats - one for the heat mat, one for the heat bulb - and a guard for the heat bulb.

As far as hides go, you can spend less than a fiver on a large plastic plant pot saucer and cut an entrance hole in the side, then sand it down - my snakes ADORE these low, flat hides.


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## CollaredLizardGal (May 17, 2010)

Is there not a hide already in the viv? Also a quick note on substrate, depending on what substrate it is (more than likely cork bark /aspen then you don't have to change it all that often, you only need to clear out the small area that the snake will have releived himself in, you will not have to buy more substrate straight away. A branch is not necessary straight away allow your self time for your funds to accumulate, my rat snake does not have a branch as he does not tend to climb and a snake will be perfectly fine without. If you are getting a heatmat and a heat bulb then it will have more than adequate heat but you need to think about getting a stat, you only need the bulb guard if the snake can reach the bulb, they should have had a guard in there already. 
You can also use a box or container as a hide in the meantime you don't have to buy one from the shop but they will try to sell you whatever they can regardless of how nice they are, but for over 200 quid I would expect *everything* necessary. 
You need to have a word with the guy in the shop I think. If you are unsure you can always ask for your money back until you are prepared for your new snake. 
Another helpful hint : go and collect the snake the day after feeding - that way it will be a week before you have to try to feed the snake which gives you 2 weeks until you run out :whistling2:lol


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## feorag (Jul 31, 2007)

But if he collects the snake the day after feeding there's every possibility that the snake will regurge because of the handling! Personally I wouldn't advise this!

After a major change such as this, plus travelling you wouldn't feed a snake for about 7 days anyway - it'll need time to settle.


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> That sounds pretty expensive, especially if you aren't getting TWO thermostats - one for the heat mat, one for the heat bulb - and a guard for the heat bulb.
> 
> As far as hides go, you can spend less than a fiver on a large plastic plant pot saucer and cut an entrance hole in the side, then sand it down - my snakes ADORE these low, flat hides.


i think it would have to be a big plant pot something like 18 inch in diameter for a 4 ft snake. i think at its thickest its about 2 to 3 inch


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## CollaredLizardGal (May 17, 2010)

I am a bit shocked that the snake does not already have a hide (what does he do in the shop?) 

My bad re the regurge thing I meant about 48 hours


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## cardinalgrom (Aug 23, 2010)

but one private mate on the classifieds on this website, loads cheaper and loads more to choose from!


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> i think it would have to be a big plant pot something like 18 inch in diameter for a 4 ft snake. i think at its thickest its about 2 to 3 inch


You'd be surprised, Kale - snakes like to squeeze themselves into VERY small spaces. An eight-foot boa fits into a 32-litre Wilko plastic tub with plenty of room to spare. 

I have a five-foot ratsnake using a rectangular seed tray about six inches by about eight inches by two inches, and he fits in there with room enough to pull his supper into it.


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## snakeskinshoes (Apr 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> You'd be surprised, Kale - snakes like to squeeze themselves into VERY small spaces. An eight-foot boa fits into a 32-litre Wilko plastic tub with plenty of room to spare.
> 
> I have a five-foot ratsnake using a rectangular seed tray about six inches by about eight inches by two inches, and he fits in there with room enough to pull his supper into it.


My 8 1/2ft female boa, who iv also fattened up for breeding this season, still insists on squeezing into the 5" gap behind her viv and the wall when i let her out :devil:, also decides its best for us both if she wraps herself up round the censor wire for her stat!!

I have to stats I'm about to put on here for cheap if you need them urgently to save me putting the add on?


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

CollaredLizardGal said:


> If it says "FULL" set up - this should include appropriate hides and water dishes etc, I would check the pricing against other places to be honest and check with them what the "FULL" setup includes, as you should not have to pay more than you need to. As for food when we bought each of our snakes the shop gave us a months supply of food in with them, I would consider having a look around before jumping on the one set up, it also depends how cheap it is??


after all the advice i called the guy who insisted that he told me what i was getting, i said listen, im anoobie when it comes to keeping snakes, you just said "full set-up" it wasn't unstll later that you told me the things im getting.
now hes making me go down to the shop which was across town to get a refund on my credit card, he wont do it over the phone.

NOW im in the market for a "ball python" but cant find anyone near me selling one that isn't close to 200 and i wont even have a vivarium

so if anyone is selling one preferable with set up that will travel to glossop derbyshire let me know


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## snakeskinshoes (Apr 6, 2010)

kaleluk31 said:


> after all the advice i called the guy who insisted that he told me what i was getting, i said listen, im anoobie when it comes to keeping snakes, you just said "full set-up" it wasn't unstll later that you told me the things im getting.
> now hes making me go down to the shop which was across town to get a refund on my credit card, he wont do it over the phone.
> 
> NOW im in the market for a "ball python" but cant find anyone near me selling one that isn't close to 200 and i wont even have a vivarium
> ...


Why dont you buy the viv and hides and lighting/heating stuff, then when its all set up get yourself a BP.. Theres plenty out there its not like theyre gonna be exstinct by the time uve set up. : victory:


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## feorag (Jul 31, 2007)

kaleluk31 said:


> i think it would have to be a big plant pot something like 18 inch in diameter for a 4 ft snake. i think at its thickest its about 2 to 3 inch


As has been said snakes are much happier when they are squashed into a small space and can kinda feel the walls around them. My full size corn is happy in an exo terra cave which is only about 9" square. When he was younger he started in a tiny square bonsai tree pot and went in and out the drainage hole!



CollaredLizardGal said:


> My bad re the regurge thing I meant about 48 hours


:lol2:


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

snakes4me said:


> Could I ask where are you getting this snake from?


do ball pythons need some kind of water conditioner in there water bowel?


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## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> do ball pythons need some kind of water conditioner in there water bowel?


Nope, just plain clean water.

You can use bottled water if you're not convinced your tap water is clean or if it tastes strongly of chemicals.


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## CollaredLizardGal (May 17, 2010)

I am really glad you have decided to go down the route of prepping yourself first - i was slightly worried you were being ripped off by the shop. :gasp:
I would suggest spending plenty of time having a good mooch through the classifieds, and keep your eyes on it, you never know when something will pop up that takes your fancy. :mf_dribble:
I would suggest you buy everything a snake will need first, even if you do it bit by bit, then get the snake you will proabably be happier as you know you won't have to worry and you can focus on the biting part lol (sorry:blush

Do a fair bit of research, you may find you fall head over heels :flrt:for different snakes. I saw Roland my Rat snake and fell in lurve!!


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

CollaredLizardGal said:


> I am really glad you have decided to go down the route of prepping yourself first - i was slightly worried you were being ripped off by the shop. :gasp:
> I would suggest spending plenty of time having a good mooch through the classifieds, and keep your eyes on it, you never know when something will pop up that takes your fancy. :mf_dribble:
> I would suggest you buy everything a snake will need first, even if you do it bit by bit, then get the snake you will proabably be happier as you know you won't have to worry and you can focus on the biting part lol (sorry:blush
> 
> Do a fair bit of research, you may find you fall head over heels :flrt:for different snakes. I saw Roland my Rat snake and fell in lurve!!



well asn update on the recent situation is, that i went to the shop to get my money back, at first he says legally i dont have to do this, but i will out of good faith, i though YEAH RIGHT.

i did look through the classifieds and im getting a 2 year old royal/ball python with setup for £100 which is half the amount i was getting ripped off by 

ill be getting it Monday or tuesday


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## nino_rojo (Sep 16, 2010)

kaleluk31 said:


> well asn update on the recent situation is, that i went to the shop to get my money back, at first he says legally i dont have to do this, but i will out of good faith, i though YEAH RIGHT.
> 
> i did look through the classifieds and im getting a 2 year old royal/ball python with setup for £100 which is half the amount i was getting ripped off by
> 
> ill be getting it Monday or tuesday


yeah it really did sound like a LOT of money for the rat snake & (half) set up. I got my ball python on sunday and he's a beauty!


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

*ceramic lamps 100w*

can 100w ceramic lamps archive the right 88f heat using a thermostat or will that be pushing a 100w ceramic to far??

can a holder that was used for a light heat bulb be used for just a light bulb? what's a low emitting light bulb for daytime?


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## iron-clover (Aug 2, 2010)

kaleluk31 said:


> can 100w ceramic lamps archive the right 88f heat using a thermostat or will that be pushing a 100w ceramic to far??
> 
> can a holder that was used for a light heat bulb be used for just a light bulb? what's a low emitting light bulb for daytime?


Hi,
I've had a corn snake in a wooden 3ft viv for the last year and a bit, being heated by a 100W ceramic bulb, on a dimmer stat. However, a pulse proportional stat would be fine for a ceramic bulb and cheaper than a dimmer stat, but just can't be used with light bulbs.

You will need a thermostat for any heat source, but in your case, you definately would need it, or the 100W bulb will overheat the viv wildly- mine would if I just plugged it into the mains. Of course, it does depend on the type of viv and how warm the room is that it's in. 
As long as you do have it on a thermostat, it should work fine for 3ft vivs, but for larger vivs, you might need a larger heater.

Use a good digital thermometer to monitor the temps though, and set the thermostat by looking at that, just because it says 30C on the stat dial doesn't mean that the temps will be at about 30C where the probe is for the stat- the dials are just a quide at best.

You should be able to use the fitting that was for a heat light bulb for a normal bulb, you only really have problems when you put a heat bulb (like a ceramic bulb) into a normal light fitting.

Good luck


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

iron-clover said:


> Hi,
> I've had a corn snake in a wooden 3ft viv for the last year and a bit, being heated by a 100W ceramic bulb, on a dimmer stat. However, a pulse proportional stat would be fine for a ceramic bulb and cheaper than a dimmer stat, but just can't be used with light bulbs.
> 
> You will need a thermostat for any heat source, but in your case, you definately would need it, or the 100W bulb will overheat the viv wildly- mine would if I just plugged it into the mains. Of course, it does depend on the type of viv and how warm the room is that it's in.
> ...


ive baught a 150w ceramic bulb/lamp and fixing and microclimate B1 dimming thermostat and a guard.

the dimming thermostat and the ceramic fixings/holder came in the post today.

im just waiting for my ceramic bulb and guard. then i can install it all


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## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

*i found my temperature alarm*

I found my temperature alarm made by radio shack
it has a sensor on it, a high and low alarm and it runs on a AAA battery that's been running for maybe 10 months lol
it uses very little battery power.
i thought id test the true temp of my viv
at the hot end its between 91-92f and at the cold end its about 80 - 84f that's about 32c at the hot end and 27c at the cooler end.

update........
im just waiting for my ceramic bulb and guard now


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