# Bearded Dragon viv size



## solid tegs (Apr 30, 2012)

I am looking at buying a bearded dragon and was just looking into viv sizes and equipment now i was just wondering if i can actually buy a viv that would be suitable for when they are fully grown for a baby beardie as i have read some bits that say you shouldnt do this please can anyone give the opinion on this or if they know if this is true 

Thankyou in advance 
Kindest Regards


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## solid tegs (Apr 30, 2012)

I have just seen a VivExotic 48in Viv and wondered if anyone knows if the ventilation is any good on these vivs 

Thanks in advance


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

Beardies are fine to go straight into a big viv and the VX48 is fine (if it's the bigger one)


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## solid tegs (Apr 30, 2012)

Yes it is the 4ft one that i was looking at but i know a lot of people have said they needed to drill extra holes for ventilation and just wonder if that tank had sufficient vents for the job
Thankyou


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## Fruzzy (Jan 10, 2012)

I find the ventilation is fine with my vivexotic. My advice would be go for the largest (EX48) - I bought the LX but now wish I'd gone for the larger Viv. I guess hindsight is a wonderful thing!


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## solid tegs (Apr 30, 2012)

Yeah im going for the vx48 just looked the only one i could find in the ex range where all stackable viv's but maybe im looking in the wrong place but i think im gonna stick with the one i was looking at and hope it should all be ok this is the deal im going for 
Bearded Dragon Kit - Advanced


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

I wouldn't go for the kit as a lot of the kit isn't needed.

1 - heat mat - not needed
2 - desert sand - expensive and not needed. That one bag won't fill the viv; if you want sand, playsand is a hell of a lot cheaper
3 - Arcadia basking bulb holder - you can just use a cheap ceramic holder if you don't mind wiring it yourself
4 - bulb guard - just put the bulb where it can't get to it. All they do is look like a climbing frame for your beardie to jump on
5 - You'd need to replace the dial thermometers with digital as the dial ones are gash.
6 - Habba Hut - pointless really
7 - 'basking' spot bulb. Just use a household spot bulb
8 - fake plants. They cost about £7 each but you can get fake plants for a few quid
9 - Exo terra water / food bowls - optional.


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## Paul B (Apr 16, 2008)

This is what you need 

A large viv. 48x24x24 minimum

heat lamp
dimming thermostat
UV 10-12% arcadia or reptisun
2 x thermometers
humidity guage

plus the rocks and logs for decoration.

I use playsand on upside down ceramic floor tiles for my adults and just the tiles for the babies.

They dont need water bowls as they get the water from the greens they eat. Weekly baths in warm water ensure they keep hydrated.


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## mariusz (May 11, 2008)

I have kapt beadries for many years and would rec a good 4ft for an adult. Smaller / juvenile dragons are best kept in smaller vivs to ensure they feed well. Alternatively you can feed them in a small habi box if you intend to go straight for a large viv. Do you intend to keep several beadries / breed ?


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## mariusz (May 11, 2008)

DO NOT use a heat mat with a Beadrie !!!!!!!


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## nicnet (Apr 3, 2011)

A copy of something I posted a while back. Thought it may be useful to you and give you a better idea of what it is you're looking for. I know working out what you do / don't need is a minefield due to a lot of websites offering 'starter kits' with all sorts of different things in them. Those starter kits are rarely worth buying.



Go with the 4ft, A beardie will reach at least 3/4 of its adult size by time its 7-8 month old. There is no need to buy twice. If a baby dragon is a bit spooked by the large viv you can always put in a temp divider. Mine however was fine in a full size viv as a baby and never had a problem.


Lighting.
you'll need an Arcadia 12% uv tube. 34 inch for a 4ft viv. Ideally got for the T5 (fitting size) which is slightly more expensive to start out with, but in the long run is much better and cheaper to run.
Starter unit to match, make sure its the correct wattage or it will burn out your uv tube before its life is up. Replace tube every 12 month, they still provide light but they no longer provide uv after that.

(edit) T8 is the second best on the same setup. Arcadia 12% 34". Slightly cheaper and more than adequate, just not as good as the T5.
Compact (light bulb) uv is one to avoid. There has been all sorts of reported problems with them (which may / may not have been fixed, but the uv output on them is unpredictable to say the least.

Arcadia tubes last for 12 month with the correct controller. any other brand will need replacing every 6 month.

heat.
Two ways to do this.
Spotlight (60w for that viv) from 'insert major supermarket here' As long as its a reflected spotlight (silver backing on it) then its going to provide heat. These are pretty much the same as the ones you'll buy that are sold at 10x the price as reptile spot lights.
Light will need to be attached to THE most important bit of kit you'll have. A dimming thermostat. This controls your viv temperature. (we get to that later)

Second method is a ceramic heater attached to a pulse stat / mat stat. pulse is better as it regulates the temperature whereas a mat stat is a simple on/off way of doing it.
You'd need to add an economy light bulb to this setup to give more light at the basking area.

My personal preference is option one.

3x digital thermometers. Do not use the stick on ones are they are notorious for giving bad temperature. Pick these up for around £3 each off ebay.
Ideally at some point you want to buy an Infrared heat gun, this is to check your temps fast. They show slightly higher readings though as they measure surface temperature and not air temperature.


Temps.
Hot side 90F
Cool side 80F
Basking spot 100 - 110f (some like it warm some prefer it cooler, dragon will dictate this temp by observation~)
Night time temp. No lower than 60f. This is to prevent brumation in first year. Not something you need to worry about at the moment though. Its a 'deal with later' question.

Substrate.
This is an area where things start getting to personal preference and only a few 'do nots'
No woodchip, this can be eaten accidently and its sharp and can cause major internal problems.

Sand, this is not for baby dragons, although all my adults are on sand now. Dragons are target feeders and babies can injest sand and cause impaction (constipation maximus) 

Until you learn more on substrate choices, I'd go for a rough surface lino. This can either be siliconed in (make sure its dry and odour free before baby gets here) or you can leave it loose so can lift it out to clean. If leaving it free then rocks on edges to baby cant get under it.

A great place to buy all your gear and supplies....Surrey pet supplies. They are the cheapest around that you will find and I get all my equipment from them.

You'll also need. Bucket/scrubbing brush etc to be used only for reptile house cleaning, this way no contaminants can get in the viv accidently.

A 45litre or bigger smooth sided plastic tub to store and feed your live food. (optional but recommended, £ shop has some good ones am)


Couple of links for you to read.

Setting up beardie temps...its tricky so takes a while to get right.
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/lizards/698250-how-set-up-beardie-temps.html


The 'beardie food bible' if its not on this list they don't get it. read carefully.
Nutrition Content

Thats is besides their live food. 


A lot to take in I know. but please feel free to shout up at any time with any questions. As far as most on here are concerned, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask if your unsure.



Lastly. Welcome to the forums, pull up a chair and have a chat, We all know what its like to be getting ready for your first reptile so let us join in on your excitement.


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## solid tegs (Apr 30, 2012)

Thankyou all for the advice 
Yes i will only be keeping one to start with and nicnet thankyou for the advice everyting is a little confusing when starting out been reading some books on beardies and and asking anyone i know that has them found a much better deal on a viv now so gonna order that in the next couple of days. Its taken a while i know but i want to make sure i get everything right before I pick him/her up 


Do you use heat mats with your beardies i know mariusz said dont use heat mats but i have seen a lot that say it helps to regulagte the temp in the viv again dont know what is correct again because i have read a couple of bit that say dont and alot that says do use heat mats and i know so shop have heat mats under them too
Thanks again to you all for the advice


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

A heat mat can't regulate the heat in a viv, it only heats the immediate area (think of it as an electric blanket, it warms the bed, not the room).

Some people use them at night in winter because of this 'don't let them go below 60f' thing.... but Australia gets colder than that at night and a few hours at a low temperature doesn't do any harm.
You can put one on the side wall to use in winter for peace of mind, but you don't need it.

Some pet shops may have them in / under the viv, but it doesn't mean they're switched on. Don't forget, in pet shops the vivs will get used for different animals so it's easier to set them up with everything and then use what's needed.


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