# A Guide to Thermostats



## HadesDragons (Jun 30, 2007)

A lot of people recently have been asking about thermostats, and some of the advice that's been handed out I find somewhat "dubious"... This is mainly aimed at people who are keeping animals who need to be kept hot (beardies and the like), but it may be of use to anyone using a thermostat.


*1. Basic Principles*

A thermostat ("stat") is used to control the temperature of a cage. They work by adjusting the power to your heating device to keep the temperature by your probe (or the box itself if you have a probeless one) to the temperature you set the thermostat to.


*2. Types*

*"Mat Stat"* / on-off: This turns the power off when the desired temperature is hit, then turn the power back on when the temperature falls a certain amount below what it's set to (the "on threshold" value). Depending on the stat, this can be a few degrees. If you set the stat to 85f, and it had a 3f sensitivity, the temperature would go: 85f -> 82f -> 85f and so on. On-off stats are commonly used to regulate central heating in rooms in your house.

*"Pulse Propoertional"*: This sends power to the device in pulses, rather than being simple on, then off, then on, then off etc. They are usually used with ceramics - if used with a light bulb, they will cause the bulb to flash.

*"Dimming"*: These reduce the power to the heat source (but don't turn it off completely) when the desired temperature is approached. They are commonly used with lightbulbs, and can prolong the life of a bulb by not switching it on and off, and causes less confusion to your pet, by keeping the light levels fairly constant.


*3. How to use*

For an animal that requires a temperature gradient, a stat is a *safety feature*, NOT a control device. For an animal that needs a single ambient temperature it's slightly different, but for an animal wanting a gradient, they should not be used to control the warm end temperatures.

A stat is fitted to ensure that there is always a cool end to retreat to. There's a reason why most only go up to 92f; they weren't intended to be controlling 110f bearded dragon basking spots!

If a beardie (or any other reptile that has a basking spot) gets too hot, it will seek a cool area to cool off in. If you have your stat right under the basking light, set to 92f and it's a hot day, the rest of the viv may get to 92f, as there will be very little heat loss, due to there only being a small thermal gradient to the rest of the room. If your beardie has basked and got itself up to 100f (desired temperature is 93-96f, depending on the individual) and tries to cool off, it will take a very long time to lose heat with only an 8f difference, even in the cool end. Staying at too high a temperature for a prolonged period is not good for them - when they want to cool off, they have to be able to do it quickly! A cool end of 80-85f gives a 15-20f gradient for heat loss; this will allow *much* faster cooling (read up on thermodynamics if you want to know why...)

The stat / probe needs to be in the cool end, to ensure that, even on the hottest day, there is somewhere to cool off.

Once you have the cool end under control, you can then think about setting the basking spot:


*4. The Basking Spot*

Once you have a nice, stable cool end (which may take an hour or two to settle down), you can start to think about creating a basking spot. The stat controls the total wattage of energy going into the cage; the basking spot is controlled by the *intensity* of the light on the basking spot - think of it in terms of energy per square inch of basking spot. A lot of energy means a hot basking spot; a little energy means a cooler one.

Using a narrower beamed light can help - the wattage is the same, but the light is more focussed onto the basking spot, so the intensity is higher. Changing the distance between the light and the basking spot also helps - it increases the intensity of energy hitting the basking spot. Often this will mean suspending the light from the top of the vivarium, to avoid having to build amazingly tall and complex basking spots.


*5. Common Problems*

There are a number of commonly-encountered problems / _faux-pas_ associated with the use of stats:

a) They only control the temperature at the probe. A stat can't control the rest of the cage. You have to set the cage, with the stat, under *normal operating conditions*, then tinker around with the rest of the temperatures.

b) Heat rises. Having a stat placed 18" up the backwall in a cage for a 1" tall baby beardie doesn't make much sense - the beardie doesn't care how warm it is 18" above its head; it cares how warm it is on the ground! Although this is a "good" kind of error, it leads to inefficiency in heating - if the temperature is controlled at 85f 18" up, it may only be 75-80f on the ground. Whilst this is good in that there's a decent cool spot, it will make setting the basking spot harder, and can lead to premature dimming of the bulb on hot days - the ground level where the beardie is may still only be 75-80f, but the stat will sense 85f, and will turn the basking light (and hence the basking spot) right down. A prolonged period without a basking spot isn't ideal for a beardie.

c) A 100W bulb dimmed to 40W is much less bright than a 60W dimmed to 40W. If your bulb is dim all the time, switch down to a lower wattage. You want the basking light to be as bright as possible, whilst keeping the correct temperatures. I use 60W bulbs in my 4' x 2' x 18" vivariums. The number of people using 100W bulbs in tiny cages that give off almost no light is pretty high!

d) Ventilation is needed to allow heat loss. If heat can't escape from the cage, the cool end will get to 85f, the light will dim...and will stay dimmed. The whole cage is now at 85f, and you've just lost your thermal gradient and basking spot. A couple of 75mm vents in the cool end allow heat to be lost at that end. This makes sure that as heat is transferred from the warm end, it is lost and doesn't just build up in the cool end. Heat loss is vital for keeping a good thermal gradient.


*6. Advanced Ideas*

There are a lot more things that can be done with thermostats than what is described above. I'd really recommend that if you've never kept reptiles that need basking spots / cool ends, and aren't familiar with the concept of thermostats, you stick to what's described above. It's simple, it's safe and it's functional.

However...

If you are using large, ventilated cages, you could replace the dimming stat with an on-off, and have it as a true safety feature. Set it to 85f, place it in the cool end as usual, but set up the rest of the cage (ventilation, size of cage etc) so that, even on the warmest day, the cool end remains below 85f. You are likely to need a large cage to do this.

This means that your bulb is now "unregulated", with only a safety cut out in place (incase something goes wrong / we get an unexpected heat wave). What this means is that your cage will now track room temperature, and you'll get a bit more temperature variation, as you would in the wild. If you use this in an unregulated / only slightly heated room, the cage temperature will now track even more closely to outside temperature, giving true temperature fluctuations, depending on the weather. For animals that can sense air pressure (and hence weather) changes, such as beardies, it may be less confusing to them if they sense that there will be rain, and the cage gets a little colder than usual, than if they sense rain and the cage retains it's 110f basking spot...

Note: the on-off safety cutout described above is the only way to "stat" a Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB) - they cannot be used with dimming / pulse stats.


Also on the market are time-variable stats, that adjust the temperature depending on the time of day. They are expensive, but could be used for some wonderful setups. If you are using a large cage, how about having 2-3 of them, each linked to their own lightbulb (with their own basking spot). Put the 2-3 probes together to create one permanant cool end. Set one stat to come on first thing, set to 85f. Set the other(s) to 70f first thing. This will give you one basking spot for the morning. Set the first stat to switch down to 70f at lunchtime, and the second stat to switch up to 85f. Your basking spot will move, representing the movement of the sun across the sky (in nature, reptiles have to move during the day to track the sun and the best basking spots). If you have a 3rd stat, do the same, but with it coming on in the late afternoon. It may be a solution to all of the lazy bearded dragons that are only too happy to sit around by their light and not move for an entire day...


Hopefully this has cleared up some misconceptions, and possibly given people some ideas about how thermostats should (and potentially could) be used. My intention with this guide is to improve safety in reptile cages, by greatly reducing the risk of overheating, especially with summer on its way. People who only got into reptiles in the last 18 months may never have experienced a "proper" summer (as the last one scarcely counts in terms of temperatures) with their reptiles, and may not be aware of what an exceptionally hot cage can do to temperatures and gradients.

Andy


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## R0NST3R (Nov 28, 2007)

Well done  Sticky


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## joe21 (Apr 20, 2008)

Excellent write up! Very helpful, thank you very much! 

Joe


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## KitsuneAndy (Feb 12, 2008)

The point about the 100w vs 60w is definitely worth mentioning to new owners, I was originally advised to get a 100w bulb and it's fine apart from if we have a relatively hot day.

The viv doesn't get too hot because of the stat, but it gets hot enough to dim the 100w bulb right down. So I'll be changing it for a 60w bulb tomorrow.


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## Jibber10 (Feb 6, 2007)

Good guide hades!


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## Rons_Tegus (Apr 28, 2008)

Camzoo are good for these products


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## medusa0373 (Mar 18, 2008)

OK, I admit it, I'm confused, as usual!! Doesn't take much!!!!!! :Na_Na_Na_Na:

My BRB viv has a heat mat underneath the viv and a ceramic heater.
Currently, the sensor probe and the "out" probe for my thermometer, are approx 6" away from the heater, roughly in the middle (top to bottom) of the viv. I was advised to set them up this way as they should then not be reading direct heat from the CHE. The thermometer unit sits in the cool end at about the same level. My temps are currently reading around 88-90F at the "hot" end and about 80F at the "cool" end. I also have a "mat stat" and that's set to 88F so probably cycles between 85-88F.

I concede that as heat rises it may be a cooler lower down in the viv, which is why I have the heat mat...

Your article, while very well written, is aimed specifically at animals which require a high-temp basking spot as opposed to some species which are nocturnal so wouldn't necessarily need a direct and focused heated area...?

My BRB spends a lot of her time buried in the substrate underneath her hides, and will occasionally come out in the late evening for a wander round but she doesn't bask (or I've never seen her do it!!)
:lol2:


If I move my thermostat probe to the cool end, how do I regulate the temperature of the hot end of the viv to get my gradient? I'm also not sure how having the probe at the cool end will regulate the overall temperature of the viv if it's hot outside etc....

I'm genuinely confused as to how works......

Thanks!


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## ian14 (Jan 2, 2008)

Thermostats usually have a pretty good guide with them as to where the probe should go. Mt vivs are heated using bulbs, which are fitted to the roof of the viv at one end, with the probe to one side, ie of the fitting is to the left of the tank, the probe is placed to the left of the bulb. This allows for a warm end, with a slightly higher temperature for basking, then a gradient to the right providing cooler areas.
I have not had any problems using this method.


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## medusa0373 (Mar 18, 2008)

ian14 said:


> Thermostats usually have a pretty good guide with them as to where the probe should go. Mt vivs are heated using bulbs, which are fitted to the roof of the viv at one end, with the probe to one side, ie of the fitting is to the left of the tank, the probe is placed to the left of the bulb. This allows for a warm end, with a slightly higher temperature for basking, then a gradient to the right providing cooler areas.
> I have not had any problems using this method.


My set up is kind of like that I think only with the CHE instead of a bulb. I have not had any problems so far and I was advised to set it up that way; I just don't understand how you can regulate the hot end by putting the probe in the cool end of the viv... :crazy:


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## Issa (Oct 13, 2006)

Very nicely written although 

Also on the market are time-variable stats, that adjust the temperature depending on the time of day. They are expensive, but could be used for some wonderful setups. If you are using a large cage, how about having 2-3 of them, each linked to their own lightbulb (with their own basking spot). Put the 2-3 probes together to create one permanant cool end. Set one stat to come on first thing, set to 85f. Set the other(s) to 70f first thing. This will give you one basking spot for the morning. Set the first stat to switch down to 70f at lunchtime, and the second stat to switch up to 85f. Your basking spot will move, representing the movement of the sun across the sky (in nature, reptiles have to move during the day to track the sun and the best basking spots). If you have a 3rd stat, do the same, but with it coming on in the late afternoon. It may be a solution to all of the lazy bearded dragons that are only too happy to sit around by their light and not move for an entire day...

You could probably do the same trick (the moving basking spot idea) a lot cheaper with 1 stat, a few timers and a multi plug thingie if you were a bit creative about how you set it up.


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## HadesDragons (Jun 30, 2007)

medusa0373 said:


> My set up is kind of like that I think only with the CHE instead of a bulb. I have not had any problems so far and I was advised to set it up that way; I just don't understand how you can regulate the hot end by putting the probe in the cool end of the viv... :crazy:


Once you have the cool end regulated and leave the cage to stabilise itself, you then know how much energy you have going into the cage. It's then the distance between the basking bulb and the basking spot that will determine the basking temperature. The point is that the hot end isn't "regulated". You set it up with the energy available, which is adjusted according to the temperature of the cool end. If you are using the correct wattage bulb (this wouldn't apply to CHEs), there should be almost no dimming, so it's in effect using an unstat'ed bulb, but with that safety feature in place should it ever be needed. This would only apply to animals where the basking spot is much higher than the cool end "safe" temperature - as far as I'm aware, with a BRB, you need an ambient air temperature in the warm end, not a basking spot as such. As the BRB won't sit on a rock and bask, this method doesn't really work for them.




Issa said:


> Very nicely written although
> 
> You could probably do the same trick (the moving basking spot idea) a lot cheaper with 1 stat, a few timers and a multi plug thingie if you were a bit creative about how you set it up.


I see where you're coming from - you could possibly set it up with:

socket -> stat -> 3x timers (with 1 bulb per timer)

That would give you a crude (but I imagine effective) way of doing it. You wouldn't be able to dim basking spots though for a gradual transition - it would just be on / off - although probably much more affordable to set up...




ian14 said:


> Thermostats usually have a pretty good guide with them as to where the probe should go. Mt vivs are heated using bulbs, which are fitted to the roof of the viv at one end, with the probe to one side, ie of the fitting is to the left of the tank, the probe is placed to the left of the bulb. This allows for a warm end, with a slightly higher temperature for basking, then a gradient to the right providing cooler areas.
> I have not had any problems using this method.


Ian, I'm sure many people have not yet had a problem with your method. However some have. I have had emails from people and read on forums about cases where the vivarium has overheated, and caused serious problems (and even death in a couple of cases) because the cool end was not regulated. I don't remember a specific case on this forum, but have only been around here for 10 months or so. As explained in my original post, if you allow the cool end to get to the same temperature as the basking end, it won't allow a hot dragon to cool down quickly if it needs to. It would break my heart if someone on this forum put up a post about their dragon having gotten overheated this summer because they didn't ensure that there would be a cool end available for it at all times. That's why I wrote this - about the "safe" (but possibly slightly more involved to set up) way of using thermostats.


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## medusa0373 (Mar 18, 2008)

HadesDragons said:


> Once you have the cool end regulated and leave the cage to stabilise itself, you then know how much energy you have going into the cage. It's then the distance between the basking bulb and the basking spot that will determine the basking temperature. The point is that the hot end isn't "regulated". You set it up with the energy available, which is adjusted according to the temperature of the cool end. If you are using the correct wattage bulb (this wouldn't apply to CHEs), there should be almost no dimming, so it's in effect using an unstat'ed bulb, but with that safety feature in place should it ever be needed. This would only apply to animals where the basking spot is much higher than the cool end "safe" temperature - as far as I'm aware, with a BRB, you need an ambient air temperature in the warm end, not a basking spot as such. As the BRB won't sit on a rock and bask, this method doesn't really work for them.


Hi Hades
I wasn't doubting what you said, I'm just very thick when it comes to this sort of thing so was looking for clarification  The logical and practical side of my brain is definitely absent without leave!! :bash:

Yes, the BRBs are more a requirement for ambient temps but still with a "hot" and "cool" end to provide the gradient. We have had a couple of warm/hot days here and the temps have stayed fine as far as I can see, but I monitor everything about 20 times a day, my OH thinks I am obsessive about it!

thanks for your reply


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## joker (May 12, 2008)

that alot hadesdragons this guide has helped alot you certainly know your stuff thanks again


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