# Breeding weight for Western Hognose



## RTWetherford

Hi everyone, just a quick question. I recently purchased a female western hog to put with my male. Everything I have read said her weight should be 250-300 grams. What is the best way to help her gain the weight necessary for breeding? Ive read several things but I felt as though it would be best to ask someone who has breed them before. Thanks in advance!


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## Esiuol

How old is she?

If you've just purchase her, are you not going to quarantine first? 
Have they been brumated?

I'm not a fan of power feeding in anyway, shape or form. Feed on a regular schedule suitable for her and she'll naturally gain the weight in a much healthier way than being over fed and fat.

Are they normals or mutations?

Do you have experience getting tricky Westerns to feed who don't want f/t rodents?


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## RTWetherford

She is 2 years 3 months. And yes, I have her quarantined. I have began the process of brumation. The male is a High Red and the female is a Toffee het dominant for toffee. The male was tricky when i first got him, but he eats regularly now. The female is a good feeder so far, she has yet to refuse a meal. I got her a little over a a month ago. Both feed on f/t rodents. The breeder i bought from, as you said, told me she would gain the weight naturally with her current feeding schedule. Thanks for the reply!


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## Esiuol

RTWetherford said:


> She is 2 years 3 months. And yes, I have her quarantined. I have began the process of brumation. The male is a High Red and the female is a Toffee het dominant for toffee. The male was tricky when i first got him, but he eats regularly now. The female is a good feeder so far, she has yet to refuse a meal. I got her a little over a a month ago. Both feed on f/t rodents. The breeder i bought from, as you said, told me she would gain the weight naturally with her current feeding schedule. Thanks for the reply!


It's a little late to start brumation now IMO, I'd wait until next season - that way she will be completely settled, quarantined and you can brumate properly, plus she will more than likely be up to wait too :2thumb:

Sounds like the male is a normal - high red is just line bred.

Toffee het dominant for toffee doesn't make sense though?


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## RTWetherford

Thanks for the response. Im not really sure on the females genetics, the breeder was just trying to get rid of her. What is your recommendation of when to get them started?


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## Esiuol

RTWetherford said:


> Thanks for the response. Im not really sure on the females genetics, the breeder was just trying to get rid of her. What is your recommendation of when to get them started?


Do you have pictures? It's important to know what you'll potentially be producing :2thumb:

Best time to get them started for brumation you mean? 
Everyone has their own method TBH, most important thing is to make sure their gut is empty so 14 days without feeding should do it, keep at normal temperatures and reduce lighting hours, then after 14 days you can either lower the temperature straight away or do it gradually it's your choice.

You need to aim to keep them between 5-15'C.

For how long, well that depends on who you ask - some will do 8 weeks, 12 weeks but me personally mine start end of October/early November until late March, early April, including hatchlings.

Make sure they have access to water because they will still drink.

When the time comes give them 5-7 days back to normal temperatures, start feeding them as normal and I pair late April - May as long as everyone is looking in good condition.

Check on them regularly during brumation, If they appear to be losing weight, and you are keeping them at the right temperatures. You can stop and warm that individual back to normal temps and offer food after 5-7 days. Or if you have any other concerns.


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