# Dubia Roach Colony - Advice Needed



## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

I set up a dubia roach colony but i seem to be getting the odd random death, i have read through the stickied guide on here and theres nothing thats standing out.

I have set them up in a large plastic box, 84L thing, with a 47inch heat mat going round and covering just over half the inside so the egg crates are enclosed on three sides with the heat mat. Heat mat runs via a dimming thermostat and is set to 30C with probe in centre of egg crates

Used duct tape to fix the heat mat in place, feeding chicken layers mash mixed with bug grub and porridge oats, fresh veg/fruit (carrot, butternut squash, cucumber, strawberries so far only been few days)

Had two adult females die, so i thought maybe it was just old age, then ive had three different sized medium/large nymphs die and i had a slight accident with 4 or 5 baby nymphs and i think they drowned in strawberry juice...

The tiny ones were drowning accidents but i have corrected for that (no more fresh strawberries on bottom of box) but it doesnt explain the random deaths of the mid-sized nymphs.

Im worried im somehow killing them, something in the duct tape? too warm? The box was spray painted on the outside, could that be affecting them?


----------



## Jamesrm (Jul 30, 2008)

Ive had similar problem before but i thought it was because the humidity was too low i add a small container of water crystals and everything seems good also i remove the young dubias from the breeders container to prevent fight over space hope this helps


----------



## Blackmelo (Jan 12, 2009)

This does not sound quite normal to me but it might be nothing. I do sometimes get a few deaths but it's usually old age or moulting problems.

I have come up with a theory that some pesticide loaded fruit from certain supermarkets can have detrimental effects on your colony but it's hard to say.

For starters you are keeping them far too hot. They will breed at 24 degrees. Keep your colony happy, don't stick them on maximum till you have things dialled in properly.

If you have 3/4 of the container enclosed in a heatmat and in the coolest spot it is 30 degrees celcius then in the warmest spot it is 38 degrees celcius. This is 10 degrees too hot for them and if they don't have constant access to water they will dehydrate. As you have already noticed keeping water constant at such high temps is difficult without causing drowning


----------



## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Ok, I will drop the temps down a bit and maybe look at water crystals . Currently I put things like carrot in as a water source will keep that up as it's also additional food. 
Thanks for the tips


----------



## Fire26662 (Apr 20, 2015)

I put some cucumber in with mine. soon goes.


----------



## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Obese doing that with mine, noticed they start on the watery middle then move to the fleshy bit. I'm trying to offer a range of fruit and veg but I think I gave too much first time so it had a chance to go soft. 

Got Orange in at the moment. Not had any deaths since that I can see I don't want to disturb the egg crates though.

Dropped temp to 28C outer edge is reading 31c core is v27.8


----------



## Fire26662 (Apr 20, 2015)

The only thing I don't give mine anymore is potato. No idea why but my colony avoid it. So orange, apple, cucumber along with a bit of bug grub and water gel and it has become a 2 day refill game LOL.


----------



## ZOO CENTRE (Apr 1, 2010)

Azastral said:


> I set up a dubia roach colony but i seem to be getting the odd random death, i have read through the stickied guide on here and theres nothing thats standing out.
> 
> I have set them up in a large plastic box, 84L thing, with a 47inch heat mat going round and covering just over half the inside so the egg crates are enclosed on three sides with the heat mat. Heat mat runs via a dimming thermostat and is set to 30C with probe in centre of egg crates
> 
> ...


There are too hot - cut the temperature in centre of egg crates to 24-25C.: victory:

BTW:The heat mat is inside the box?
If so then give it outside!


----------



## MLJSNAKES (Aug 18, 2013)

heard oranges are like viagra to dubia's


----------



## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Why does the heat mat need to be outside the box?
Why do you say 24C? everything i have read and the breeding advice on here has said 28 to 30C is ideal for breeding.
Can you explain more please.

I am keeping a regular and constant supply of either carrot, butternut squash or orange in for moisture/food as well as feeding bug grub mixed with layers mash. Not had a single death since that first few days and they seem to be thriving, very active and growing quite fast.
Have also been putting in mixed bits of salad like lambs lettuce, cucumber, pea shoots, spring greens in small amounts when left over from feeding the dragons.

Orange does certainly seem to have an effect, since starting with oranges i am pretty sure several have given birth, their appetite seems to have significantly increased as well.


----------



## onextwo (Dec 19, 2014)

ZOO CENTRE said:


> There are too hot - cut the temperature in centre of egg crates to 24-25C.: victory:
> 
> BTW:The heat mat is inside the box?
> If so then give it outside!


 I have a thermostat controlled heated insulated cupboard with two tubs in, one breading and one growing / feeding.
I am not having very good breading results and I think it may be down to the temperature. 
The temperature currently at 29C, all the info I can fine says the best breeding temperature is 27 to 32C and some say even higher.
Is 29C to high, why do you say 24-25C am I missing something?
At what temperature does other get good breading results?


----------



## ZOO CENTRE (Apr 1, 2010)

Azastral said:


> Why does the heat mat need to be outside the box?
> Why do you say 24C? everything i have read and the breeding advice on here has said 28 to 30C is ideal for breeding.
> Can you explain more please.
> 
> ...


If you have the heat mat inside then on the mat is more than 50C!!
Ideal for breeding is 26-27C (for colonies with adults)....for growing 28-30 (they are growing much quickly and the adults live very short time and have less babies): victory:


----------



## ZOO CENTRE (Apr 1, 2010)

onextwo said:


> I have a thermostat controlled heated insulated cupboard with two tubs in, one breading and one growing / feeding.
> I am not having very good breading results and I think it may be down to the temperature.
> The temperature currently at 29C, all the info I can fine says the best breeding temperature is 27 to 32C and some say even higher.
> Is 29C to high, why do you say 24-25C am I missing something?
> At what temperature does other get good breading results?


I really do not know who wrote that ideal temperaure is 32C on the internet are many nonsenses. :bash:

It can be in some space of large colony....but in other space must be much lower temperature.: victory:


----------



## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Mine are breeding well I've seen several "litters" of very small roaches but I agree they are also growing fast and the litters seem to be around 15 to 20 rather than the 30 figures I've seen on guides.
The surface temp of the mat I have is 45C but putting it outside the box would mean even more heat being lost wouldn't it? 

I may look at some way of lining the box with polystyrene sheets and then some sort of cardboard casing to prevent direct contact that should still hold the heat in the box but mean lower surface temps available to the roaches. 

Will look at dropping the temps as well by a few degrees.


----------



## onextwo (Dec 19, 2014)

ZOO CENTRE said:


> If you have the heat mat inside then on the mat is more than 50C!!
> Ideal for breeding is 26-27C (for colonies with adults)....for growing 28-30 (they are growing much quickly and the adults live very short time and have less babies): victory:


As you say 29C they growing very well, but the adults do seem to be short lived and do not produce many babies.

Thanks, I will reduce the temperature down to 26-27C and see now it goes.

What is the lowest temperature you can go before they stop breeding?


----------



## ZOO CENTRE (Apr 1, 2010)

onextwo said:


> What is the lowest temperature you can go before they stop breeding?


I really do not know- I never tried it. 
But the production is very slow - very less babies - at 22C.


----------



## ZOO CENTRE (Apr 1, 2010)

Azastral said:


> Mine are breeding well I've seen several "litters" of very small roaches but I agree they are also growing fast and the litters seem to be around 15 to 20 rather than the 30 figures I've seen on guides.
> The surface temp of the mat I have is 45C but putting it outside the box would mean even more heat being lost wouldn't it?
> 
> I may look at some way of lining the box with polystyrene sheets and then some sort of cardboard casing to prevent direct contact that should still hold the heat in the box but mean lower surface temps available to the roaches.
> ...


Remember the inverts (and cold blood animals too )have different nervous system like mammals - they do not feel hot immediately
If snake will be on the heat mat longer time then he will burned but the cockroach will be dead. (The 45C is still too much).


----------



## onextwo (Dec 19, 2014)

ZOO CENTRE said:


> I really do not know- I never tried it.
> But the production is very slow - very less babies - at 22C.


I will go for 27C and see that goes. 

Thanks :2thumb:


----------

