# How do you attach probe to basking spot?



## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Struggling here, ive attached the lighting and trying to organise how I want things (also a future question for ideas) but I understand the dimming thermostat sensor probe is to do placed directly ontop of the hottest point of the basking spot... as you can see I am struggling, how do you do yours? I seem to be a little short of cable too for it to be tidy running along floor/wall?


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## DeadLee (Apr 7, 2010)

You don't need it to be directly on the basking spot. Rather you have it on the wall of the vivarium close to the basking spot. What you then do is measure the temperature of the basking spot using an infrared heat gun and adjust the thermostat temp accordingly. For example, to achieve a 110F basking spot my thermostat is set to 98.

I attach my thermostat to the wall of the viv using a cable clip like the below.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bulk-Hardw...TF8&qid=1511884094&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+clip


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## matthewgood6911 (May 12, 2017)

What I do is just leave the probe at the hot end so I know that's correct. And then use a little battery powered thermometer to check other places every now and then like basking spots ect.

Like this one https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/exo-terra-digital-thermometer/

You don't want the probe to stand out or be in the way.

Sent from my Wileyfox Swift using Tapatalk


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Ahhhh! OK thank you, so it can go more a less anywhere along the back wall and then I just play around with the stat temp?

Dont worry I dont have a bearded dragon in there yet, I want to set everything up properly first


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

So If I run the probe running down the wall from where it is inserted at the top, do i just having it pointing downwards almost touching the floor directly behind the basking spot or a little bit higher? sorry for questions just want to be positive I do it right before I nail it in


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## matthewgood6911 (May 12, 2017)

I have mine an couple inches or so above the substrate. But doesn't matter too much as long as the substrate isn't covering it as it could insulate it from the heat.

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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Great thanks, so like this then? I hope this is right now because them nails would not go in, took alot of hammering ha

Now its a case of finding the right setting for the thermostat whilst measuring the very top of that branch closest to the bulb for it to hit 40degrees isnt it?


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## matthewgood6911 (May 12, 2017)

If you get the basking spot to the temperature you want just make sure to check other places arnt too cold ect. Just try to get a balance.

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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

I would put it about 4 inches above the back wall atm, and try to fit it so its not flush to the wall, it leans inwards so the probe itself its about an inch out from the wall.

Remember heat rises, and ground air temps will be lower than the sir temp 4 inches up.

You dont want it touching anything, the probe itself works on ambient temps.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Azastral said:


> I would put it about 4 inches above the back wall atm, and try to fit it so its not flush to the wall, it leans inwards so the probe itself its about an inch out from the wall.
> 
> Remember heat rises, and ground air temps will be lower than the sir temp 4 inches up.
> 
> You dont want it touching anything, the probe itself works on ambient temps.


Thanks, taken your advice and changed it (Also put on background since last picture, you will see the little hole where the old probe was. Moved it up as you said and added another cable clip directly below pressing the probe onto it so that it leans out, away from wall)

Is this right?


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Much better.

Could do with giving it an inch on the cable, just to get a little more distance between probe and wall, but that should be fine.

We careful about any permanent fixing atm, there will be lots of little adjustments over the next few days until you find the perfect position/dimming stat setting to get it all balancing nicely for you.

Its a pain, but it is a real trial and error exercise when you first setup, hence why its so much easier to get the equipment and viv up and running before even buying the animal for it.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Thermostat is set to 30 and the basking spot is now reading 40 degrees, this has been for the last hour


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

I dont know if its maintaining the temps well by slightly dimming/brightening back up again without me realising so its sustaining the set temps or if it just is never reaching the set temps because everytime i have looked ive never noticed the bulb dimming dramatically..... 
How long would you say you need to leave the bulb on for when you think you have the stat set correctly, in order to verify you have? How long?


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Let it run for a few days, to give a better picture. An hour to warm up, then check an hour after that, then midday. Keep an eye over a few days, see how stable those readings are and make small adjustments if its not quite right, then monitor again to see effect.

What wattage/type of bulb is it?
Is that temp using a IR temp gun?

It also looks like you have wood as a basking surface, which wont hold heat the same way that a stone surface would.

Whats the ambient temp in the cool end?


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Azastral said:


> Let it run for a few days, to give a better picture. An hour to warm up, then check an hour after that, then midday. Keep an eye over a few days, see how stable those readings are and make small adjustments if its not quite right, then monitor again to see effect.
> 
> What wattage/type of bulb is it?
> Is that temp using a IR temp gun?
> ...


Hey
Its a ProRep Basking Spot Lamp 100W
Yes all temps I am mentioning is using Infrared Gun, havent received my digital thermometers yet they were late dispatched, should receive them today, so cant really answer what the ambient cool temp is, but surface temp when using InfraRed is low 20s when using IR
Going work now so I will turn it on and check what its like when I come home, should give plenty of time to warm up and settle itself down to be steady


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## Creed (Apr 2, 2014)

To be clear: connecting a stat to you baskingspot is completely useless. 

A stat is there to ensure that the animal can retreat from the heat. The baskingspot is there to ensure the animal has access to heat. The stat should control the temperature of the cool side and should never be connect to the baskingspot. 

It's perfectly fine if the basking spot is 10 degrees Celsius hotter than a month before. So long as the animal has a place to retreat from the heat (the cold side). In the wild sun will not suddenly turn of if the baskingtemp gets too high. The animal will simply move to a cooler spot. So that what a stat should be guarding, not preventing access to the baskingspot.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

So why was I told to buy a high range dimming thermostat if I dont need to monitor temps in the high range? I am confused


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## Zincubus (Sep 6, 2010)

Wooooooh ....

All my stat probes are either hot glued over the basking spot if it's heated by a heat mat or very close if it's a ceramic bulb heat source ... 

It's correct to say that there has to be a decent heat gradient and that the cool side has to be cool enough for the snake but snakes will burn themselves if it's too warm or even hot .
I check the cool sides temps regularly with a digital temp gun ...


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

This is for a bearded dragon btw just to add but probably the same importance id imagine


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## The Deeman (Oct 10, 2017)

There are basically two schools of thought on creating the temp gradient in your viv. Some folk favour the stat working off the basking spot, and others favour the stat maintaining the cool end.
The cool end method tries to ensure the viv never overheats. Not so much of a problem in winter.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Well I was told to fix my probe behind the basking spot, so now I feel like I am neither here or there.... not monitoring the actual basking spot nor the cool end, mine is just the warm end? Have I done it wrong then ffs


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Where you have it is fine (high range you got yes?)
Its not in direct line from the basking bulb but its on the back wall near the basking area.


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Creed said:


> To be clear: connecting a stat to you baskingspot is completely useless.
> 
> A stat is there to ensure that the animal can retreat from the heat. The baskingspot is there to ensure the animal has access to heat. The stat should control the temperature of the cool side and should never be connect to the baskingspot.
> 
> It's perfectly fine if the basking spot is 10 degrees Celsius hotter than a month before. So long as the animal has a place to retreat from the heat (the cold side). In the wild sun will not suddenly turn of if the baskingtemp gets too high. The animal will simply move to a cooler spot. So that what a stat should be guarding, not preventing access to the baskingspot.



And this isnt entirely true.

Yes, there needs to be a way to retreat from the temp, but there are LOTS of ways to balance a viv temp.

As long as you are controlling the temps and the cool end is 24C or less there is no issue.

Creed advocates a different method, it isnt the only method.

The important thing with a BD is this;
Cool end (ambient temp) of 24C or under (wouldnt go lower than 22 though, they simply wont use that space then)
Basking area (surface temp) 42C to 45C (can be higher, but cool end must still be low enough)

Its that temperature range that is important, thats the bit that actually affects the animal, how you achieve and regulate that is essentially irrelevant.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

I will be home soon, my lights been on since 8 this morning its now 2PM nearly, so will be interested to see what temps are.

If Basking area isnt hot enough then I need to increase the stat, if basking area is too hot (which I doubt) I turn stat down..... If its 40-45 I leave it alone?
Aslong as the cool end is within range, I am good to go??? I just need to get my bask spot to reach 40-45 right???

A little tricky for me as the branch is funny shaped, higher parts making it closer to the bulb than others so even the branch itself varies in temps

This is more complicated than I thought I will be honest, though speaking to some people in work and they have told me I am properly being "too anal" about it and over thinking it... which I am known to do, but at same time I want it to be right


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Azastral said:


> And this isnt entirely true.
> 
> Yes, there needs to be a way to retreat from the temp, but there are LOTS of ways to balance a viv temp.
> 
> ...


Those temps are for a baby right? I read that adults dont need basking spot that high


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Those are the correct temps for an adult/juvenile.

Some will keep a viv slightly warmer for a baby, as they are smaller and so loose body heat quicker, in truth, its a pointless exercise.

If the basking spot is warm enough to begin with, the baby will simply stay closer to the basking area than an adult would.... exactly like they would in the wild.

An adult can withstand cooler temps for longer, it hold body heat better, a baby will stay closer to a heat source, because it looses heat faster.
BDS thermoregulate... provide the proper heat gradient and they will do the rest themselves.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

OK thanks, what are your thoughts on the message I said prior to that one.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Damnit.. just got home and..... my light hasnt even been on, the timer socket didnt work properly grrrr.
So I will have to let it warm up first and do some more testing this afternoon/evening


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

LeeWorrall said:


> I will be home soon, my lights been on since 8 this morning its now 2PM nearly, so will be interested to see what temps are.
> 
> If Basking area isnt hot enough then I need to increase the stat, if basking area is too hot (which I doubt) I turn stat down..... If its 40-45 I leave it alone?
> Aslong as the cool end is within range, I am good to go??? I just need to get my bask spot to reach 40-45 right???
> ...


Ok, theres two things to look at here, first what you say about temps, and second, what you are actually using to provide a basking area.
If those temps are around 45C at the peak of where the branch is, and are sitting at around that temp, then thats a good temp, you are going to expect there to be changes as you move away from the centre of the bulbs beam, and further distance from the bulb/different surface angles in relation to the beam of light. Thats natural and perfectly normal you get that with any material. But if thats the temp on its highest peak, then its on the right tracks.

That highest point on the branch, the bit directly under the bulb.... move it so its slightly off centre to the bulb (you can see by the reflection of light in the photos you put up) The BD would have to balance on top to bask at that temp. the actual sitting areas of the branch are going to be what it basks on, so its going to sit on an arm of it, rather than a pointed end. Now look at the temps on that tomorrow doing the same as what you did today. if that 
Rough idea what im talking about:









The branch you have would work for a hatchling, but by a few months (10 inches plus, prob 10 to 12 weeks) its nothing more than something for it to climb. (Also looks like java wood? Very smooth surface than is almost like a varnished bit of wood and the BD wont have much grip, none at all as an adult, you can see them scrabbling at the sides as they try to get up it the bigger they get.... you can hack at it with a saw and give the whole thing texture so its claws will have some purchase, but mark sure you then sand off well to remove any splintering. I actually found a steak knife and some course sandpaper, hacked the branch surface over completely and the roughly sanded it off, running my hand over its a rough texture overall, no sharp bits or prickly edges. I did this with Cornelius's new branch, whos around 20 inches long... so think about scale here too It is tripod shaped large branch section, some parts of it around 7 inches in diameter, thinnest bits around 3 inches diameterand i have a large cork bark section up against it in the cool end, making a large hide area and something chunky to climb) 

















If those temps are like i describe, and stable at that over the course of 4 or 5 days, then your ok in terms of what height that basking area is and where the central position of the basking area is, if the cool end is good then thats the temps under control. But you need to think about how long that branch will actually last as a basking area, what are you going to replace it with and how many times you want to be in the position of having to upgrade it as your BD grow. At 6 months, you would expect is to be somewhere around 14 to16 inches, maybe even larger (Male/Female, parentage, husbandry, diet and habitat all play a role)

If you are sticking to store bought, 
https://www.reptilecentre.com/prorep-bamboo-root-jungle-gym-regular_p26633442.htm 
Large bits of bamboo root, some big pet stores stock it too, its pretty common, but you have to look for big peices. Its one of those things you cant really buy over the internet cos each bit that turns up is different size and shape. 
https://www.reptilecentre.com/prorep-black-acacia-branch-small_p27735026.htm again its a great photo, bark on means a BD will be more than happy climbing over it, but thats a small bit, something like that scaled up (the large version on the site has a horrible branch as its picture) Shop around for a bit thats gonna fit in your viv and give those actual level areas that can be sat on. Personally i think its more a Rankins Dragon size thing, BDs can out grow them easily. 

The same is true of any branch type thing you buy, i would never buy over the internet, always too random in terms of size/shape you really need to go in and pick something out.

https://www.reptilecentre.com/prorep-reptile-ridge-large-37x165x175cm_p31209782.htm stuck along something like the drift wood and branch you have.. but expensive, also its a resin, not stone... 

https://www.reptilecentre.com/exo-terra-reptile-cave-xlarge_p4007036.htm which also provides a cave, bonus for a hatchling it will sleep in there most likely, but again a resin

Im going to point out here that i want you to see options, and also try and explain what i mean by having something it can actually sit out on and bask. (Although i'd be heavily temped by the bamboo multi root and use that in the mid section of the viv, probably have a branch leading to a basking site)

I made my own basking bits, never really found anything i was happy with in a store, branches yes, that have then gone in as additional things. Ive put plenty about that in other threads. But i find mixing things like branches, large stone, slate tiles and building an actual area with different height ledge areas and branches and perching bits to be a better method for me.

This is one of my early ones when i had beardies for about a year, the background was shredded by its previous occupant (Cornilieus's old viv, came with him when i got him, he was my third BD, i had a male and female in one viv already.) Very simple to make and a good starting point 









This is also the point i started really finding out about them, rather than listen to my housemate who had had them before but no longer kept them. I bought a third viv, put the female into Corni's old viv, shes also the oldest, a vittikins dragon (rankins/central cross) so shes about 14 inches long but full grown. 

I hit a steep learning curve myself, i know exactly what you are struggling with here.


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## Zincubus (Sep 6, 2010)

Creed said:


> To be clear: connecting a stat to you baskingspot is completely useless.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Hi bud ..

We appear to set up thermostat probes completely differently but considering I keep snakes and presumably you're talking about lizards - it's understandable .

I may have misunderstood but if I'm correct in my understanding of your method - I am intrigued with your theory of apparently NOT concerning yourself with the hotspot temps ?!?

Does that mean that Lizards are basically more intelligent than snakes and will never burn themselves ?? ( snakes cannot be trusted on that account ) ..


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Zincubus said:


> Hi bud ..
> 
> We appear to set up thermostat probes completely differently but considering I keep snakes and presumably you're talking about lizards - it's understandable .
> 
> ...


I dont think thats what Creed is referring to here with the method he describes, Its not so much not concerning yourself with the hot spot, its still not going to be 80C for a species that uses an average of 40C for example.. but it is a method that allows for basking areas maybe 10C above but a wide basking area (its more successful in large viv setups, you still look at appropriate heat sources to start with so theres not that massive over-supply, and i believe it out performs the method of control we are talking about ourselves when it comes to large enclosures 6ft plus sort of size.

As to your question about burning themselves, how they appropriate heat makes a big difference here, snakes absorb it through contact with warm surfaces more, BD's for example are far more responsive to light intensity as their initial approach to temp control.
I think in general though regardless of how that heats supplied if its at a temp that will burn, its a danger, they only know its too hot when they get too warm themselves.

A Snake has that ability to get to and wrap round a heat source, a BD shouldnt ever be able to reach that heat source directly.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Azastral said:


> Ok, theres two things to look at here, first what you say about temps, and second, what you are actually using to provide a basking area.
> If those temps are around 45C at the peak of where the branch is, and are sitting at around that temp, then thats a good temp, you are going to expect there to be changes as you move away from the centre of the bulbs beam, and further distance from the bulb/different surface angles in relation to the beam of light. Thats natural and perfectly normal you get that with any material. But if thats the temp on its highest peak, then its on the right tracks.
> 
> That highest point on the branch, the bit directly under the bulb.... move it so its slightly off centre to the bulb (you can see by the reflection of light in the photos you put up) The BD would have to balance on top to bask at that temp. the actual sitting areas of the branch are going to be what it basks on, so its going to sit on an arm of it, rather than a pointed end. Now look at the temps on that tomorrow doing the same as what you did today. if that
> ...


Wow.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate your help, from all replies you have made 
I totally understand that my basking log is not the best, I was unable to find a good proper stone one that I could use without having to venture out into the woods/quarry and build my own, I didnt fancy that so I thought this log would do, plus I have seen other setups using logs.
You are spot on when you say its java, it is the medium java branch yes, I was actually told by blue lizard reptiles that its a good one for beardies to bask on and to go for the medium size, and yes it is smooth. I will expect it to be too small then soon and if need be try to roughen up, but eventually will replace it with something else.
In actual fact the way the branch is positioned was to get it too be as high as it can be, with me thinking the beardie is going to be tiny at first, I thought he would be too far away from the bulb with the log flat down... only thing is with the position its in, it is not very sturdy.. does not take much pressure from my hand to knock it over, I just hope the beardie as a baby cannot make it budge.

Where you have drawn on the branch, which illustration is it you are saying where the beardie will rest on? Is it where you have marked the temps or where you have draw over where the probe is?


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

This would probably make a better basking item, its actually called basking platform with ramp, but I dont think its high enough ?


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

LeeWorrall said:


> Wow.
> Thank you very much! I really appreciate your help, from all replies you have made
> I totally understand that my basking log is not the best, I was unable to find a good proper stone one that I could use without having to venture out into the woods/quarry and build my own, I didnt fancy that so I thought this log would do, plus I have seen other setups using logs.
> You are spot on when you say its java, it is the medium java branch yes, I was actually told by blue lizard reptiles that its a good one for beardies to bask on and to go for the medium size, and yes it is smooth. I will expect it to be too small then soon and if need be try to roughen up, but eventually will replace it with something else.
> ...


Was trying to show that it will be those side beam bits of the branch that the animal will sit, so thats where you want it central to the bulb beam and to monitor the basking surface temp from.

BD's hatch about 2.5 to 3 inches long snout to tail tip so a couple of them would be able to use that branch for the first few weeks.
they grow fast, at about 8 to 10 weeks you'd get a BD about 7 or 8 inches, at that point, that branch only fits one... at 4 months, i would expect it to be 12 inches quite comfortably, and by that stage the branch is then pretty much outgrown.

You'll get some use out of it, but you will need to look at a better basking solution (nothing stopping you use the branch as part of that, but youll need to put something together)

Looking at the pic of the bridge thing, yes i would imagine its going to be too far from the bulb. Its also more suited to a young dragon and will become ornamental as it grows in size.
Stick it together with the branch and for now you might have something as a structure it can climb and bask at various points...not sure how that would fit.

But this is why i made my own, and many people do... be it from building up an earth mount with substrate and then branches and tiles and rocks on top or making platforms or whatever... 
Most the store bought stuff isnt really up to the job you have to get creative, even more so with medium lizards like BD's, and 100% the case with large Lizards.








That vent at the back is already 4 inches off the base of the viv...theres a whole underground chamber to it, but this is remarkably easy to make


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Wickes Slate Natural Stone Tile 300 x 300mm | Wickes.co.uk
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bond-Trans...978877&sr=8-1&keywords=silicon+marine+sealant
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicone-S...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A2DHM1HGZJYVHXMS1JNN

And a hammer.... rest is all your imagination.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

How the hell did you make that? Looks good


This is going to sound alot easier to write than I bet it is to actually make, but I have some type of idea. Lots of little broken tile pieces to form pillars (Like you have done) then a large tile to sit on top of all pillars, high enough to reach the bulb.... Then I need something for the dragon to climb, I could try and get very clever and build stairs but I doubt it, so maybe just use a log or something it can climb up with. Is that the sort of thing you mean?


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Actually just checked temps, that basking platform is actually heating up just the same as the log, 40-45's, think I will use that for now then. 

I will definitely remember to upgrade to something bigger and better, more suitable for the beardie when hes bigger, dont worry about that. I will try and make something because ive already wasted money on items I now realise I probably shouldnt have bothered getting. 

I am doing my temp checks only with IR gun atm as still waiting on my digi thermometer, I understand air checks are needed as well but if we can just go from the surface temps atm, basking is 40-45.. cool end is low-mid 20s

If digi thermometer confirms the same, then I am good to go yeah? Tbh I just want to go and get the little one now


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

This drawing is either going to confuse the hell out of you or suddenly all become clear.... I warn you know, i made this after having had BD's for around 8 years and having made several platforms before so ive had practice!

Its not quite CAD, but paint in a CAD style lol









Three main tiles, one full as base, other two trimmed down into shape.
Sets of pillars made out of broken up tiles in various size, put together to form step type bits and pillars etc.

Its glued together using the silicon sealant like glut to hold the tiles bits together (Meaning you have to wash them to get rid of dirt and dust so it sticks properly) Takes roughly a week to properly set, you will smell vinegar type fumes for first few days, leave it till no smell at all, then give it an extra day before going in the viv.
The red level platform is also ground level and the whole underneath was filled with substrate, shes dug out the borrow herself (theres a vid clip of it on these forums, 
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/lizards/1210193-bearded-dragon-diy-hobbies.html)


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

LeeWorrall said:


> Actually just checked temps, that basking platform is actually heating up just the same as the log, 40-45's, think I will use that for now then.
> 
> I will definitely remember to upgrade to something bigger and better, more suitable for the beardie when hes bigger, dont worry about that. I will try and make something because ive already wasted money on items I now realise I probably shouldnt have bothered getting.
> 
> ...


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## Creed (Apr 2, 2014)

Azastral said:


> And this isnt entirely true.
> 
> Yes, there needs to be a way to retreat from the temp, but there are LOTS of ways to balance a viv temp.
> 
> ...


Honestly this isn't a 'method', there is an ineffective way and effective way.

It really doesn't make any sense to put a stat on a basking bulb. You want to give the animal access to a higher temperature (baskingspot) and to a lower one (cool side). But instead of using a stat to make sure you have a lower temperature, you use instead to lower the higher temperature. 

During the day, an animal should always have the ability to bask and thermoregulate. Why would you use a stat in a way that assures that the animal can only do one of those things when it's doing its job?


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Creed said:


> Honestly this isn't a 'method', there is an ineffective way and effective way.
> 
> It really doesn't make any sense to put a stat on a basking bulb. You want to give the animal access to a higher temperature (baskingspot) and to a lower one (cool side). But instead of using a stat to make sure you have a lower temperature, you use instead to lower the higher temperature.
> 
> During the day, an animal should always have the ability to bask and thermoregulate. Why would you use a stat in a way that assures that the animal can only do one of those things when it's doing its job?


Because the way you are describing often means that you cant get the thermogradient you need without the basking platform being too close to the basking bulb and risking the animal burning itself.

You need a bigger viv, ive been there, ive tried it, and i know this way actually works in the space the guy has to work with.

There's more than one way to achieve a result.

The only difference here is the probe is closer to the basking area, its still not under it, and the temp setting is higher, but the cool end is still monitored and controlled.


Ive kept beardies for over 8 years, and i have four of them, they are also all healthy, the vivs are all setup and running correctly and ive only ever had to take one to the vet where its been ill (ear infection).
They have annual check ups with a proper reptile vet, and i -know- they are all in good shape.the temps are regularly checked and its rare i have to make any adjustments to the temp controls other than seasonal ones going into/coming out of winter.

Believe it or not, this method works, its tried and tested


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Good news, the bulb has infact dimmed. I took temps it was at 40-41, so I turned stat up slightly then watched it instantly brighten so it must had dimmed.
It has since dimmed again, holding the heat on the platform at a maximum of 45, varying between 40-45. I will not touch anything now and leave it as it is until I get my thermostats. 

I will activate my socket timer though so right now its going to be off, I have set my 12 hours to 8AM-8PM sun shine / 8PM-8AM darkness.

Will now treat it as though the animal is living inside and take regular temp checks as you suggested, obviously I still need my digi thermomoeter to hurry up and arrive to do this properly. it is a digital one, deluxe double probe


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## FK Geckos (Jun 29, 2017)

The way Creed is mentioning is definitely the safest way to use them. This should also be done using a bulb that stays at the desired temp without the need for a stat to kick in or at least very close so the stat doesn't need to act very often. Doesn't matter how long you owned reps or how many you have. It also doesn't matter about how big the viv is, I've used it in 2' vivs.

Having the stat controlling the warm end means the cool end isn't controlled. If the stat is set at 35C then the cool end can reach that too. 

Both methods work but the job of a thermostat is to cut a bulbs power when areas are too hot not to control a bulb because the keeper can't spend a few hours testing different bulbs of varying watts.


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

FK Geckos said:


> The way Creed is mentioning is definitely the safest way to use them. This should also be done using a bulb that stays at the desired temp without the need for a stat to kick in or at least very close so the stat doesn't need to act very often. Doesn't matter how long you owned reps or how many you have. It also doesn't matter about how big the viv is, I've used it in 2' vivs.
> 
> Having the stat controlling the warm end means the cool end isn't controlled. If the stat is set at 35C then the cool end can reach that too.
> 
> Both methods work but the job of a thermostat is to cut a bulbs power when areas are too hot not to control a bulb because the keeper can't spend a few hours testing different bulbs of varying watts.



Ive never had the stat set so high... 
My stats are set to about 27/28C, probe is roughly 1 ft from wall in warm end, cool end temps are monitored as well, mine sit at around 23C, but then i use ventilation as well as a means to control that temp.

You say you cant spend hours trying different bulbs, its imply not true, ive tried all sorts of bulbs and ways to regulate temps, i know this way works, i know with the same bulbs setting the probe in the cool end didnt work, i had to have the basking platform nearly within 6 inches of the bulb with flood bulbs .

I guess this is just an opinion and experience thing, i found that the method creed describes didnt work for me with halogens or floodbeam bulbs. Not in a 4ft viv anyway.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Surface temps this morning were 16-17 degrees all over, hardly any ambient (if any)... just cold all over..


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Im assuming the bulbs had literally just turned on>?


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Off all night and still off at time of reading yeah lol

Got my digi thermometer now so can properly test, at last.

Baskin surface 45 IR
Warm side is 29 Digi
Cool side 23 Digi

Looking OK?


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

What did you say the cool end should be? 

Could you say the safe desirable ranges that all should be within please.....

Unless I am mistaken I think Basking is 40-45 and cool end 22-26? can someone confirm please (again this is for a bearded dragon for any new readers)


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

LeeWorrall said:


> Off all night and still off at time of reading yeah lol
> 
> Got my digi thermometer now so can properly test, at last.
> 
> ...



Yes... 
Now do the same for the next few days, make sure thats stable.

Basking is 110F to 115F (43C to 46C) 
Cool End is 70F to 75F (21C to 24C)
Aim for 44C basking surface or a degree under/over and the cool end for 24C or just under. too cool and its space they wont use.

Night time ambient shouldnt regularly drop below 60F to 65F.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Already isnt stable since I turned my central heating on the cool end has gone up to 27 degrees currently :/ 

Basking is 40-41


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

LeeWorrall said:


> Already isnt stable since I turned my central heating on the cool end has gone up to 27 degrees currently :/
> 
> Basking is 40-41



Whats your central heating set to?


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Only 20. Atm in my room the thermometer on my desk fan says its 24 degrees in here. 
I have increased stat slightly to try to up the basking spot but cool end is 28 now, I have read the range for cool end is 21-29 but 24 is sweet spot

I may to have get some slate or something to put under neath my basking spot to raise it so that I can turn the stat down, seems like the only way to me


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

I would drop the central heating to 18...20 is pretty high anyway.

It was mentioned before that 24c in your room is already pretty high. You can look at trying to increase the ventilation in the viv as well as raising the basking spot. Remember you dont want it too close to the bulb, and you will also be raising the basking spot anyway when you put substrate in in a few months.

No idea where you read that the cool end can be as high as 29C, thats complete nonsense and way too high.
A total maximum is 26C, and 24C is what i would consider the upper limit.

Too warm and you screw with their ability to regulate their body temp, this can have huge health implications in the long term.


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## Shellsfeathers&fur (Jan 18, 2009)

Azastral said:


> Whats your central heating set to?





LeeWorrall said:


> Only 20. Atm in my room the thermometer on my desk fan says its 24 degrees in here.
> I have increased stat slightly to try to up the basking spot but cool end is 28 now, I have read the range for cool end is 21-29 but 24 is sweet spot
> 
> I may to have get some slate or something to put under neath my basking spot to raise it so that I can turn the stat down, seems like the only way to me


Turn the radiator down in that room. If that's not possible get a thermostatic valve fitted on it.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

Will try tonight, I can turn it off completely in my room, thing is its quite a small room I mean the vivarium and cabinet is literally taking probably 1/4 of the room, the other 1/4 is taken by my PC desk which is usually on a good 6 hours a day at least..... high spec pc with a powerful graphics card too (yes im into my pc gaming), so that gives off alot of heat too, not much but also my leopard geckos heat mat and now my bearded dragons heating.. the room does get fairly warm already, so yeh will try turning radiator off completely in the room. 


Slowly starting to get quite frustrated with it all, almost upsetting, trying my best but doesnt seem to be going the right way for me, been trying all week


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## The Deeman (Oct 10, 2017)

Don't get upset. Everyone takes a few days to get their beardie viv up and running. ;-)
I used the stat in cool end method, and I tried loads of different bulbs until I found some that worked.
You want your basking spot to be 12 - 15 inches away from the UV lamp to get max benefit.


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## DStruct (Sep 27, 2016)

They have had new babies in this morning and alot of different morphs they have told me so going to have a look after work, probably going to reserve my new baby  I dont know what the colour I like is called but I know it when I see it hehe


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## Calis mom (Feb 23, 2021)

Hi sorry to jump on here but I'm in the same boat and also feeling very frustrated and upset I want my babys viv to be perfect for her, ive got a 150 watt bulb with the habistat dimming thermostat, and the arcadia uvb bulb, my problem is I can't get the basking spot warm enough, I've tried the probe in different areas to see if it will work its been in the middle of the viv, on the cool end, on the basking spot, under the basking spot and temp won't go higher than 38 degrees Celsius unless I open the viv door in which case it will go to 40-41 degrees Celsius but when I close door it just goes back down, I've literally been sitting infront of viv everyday 5 times at least to plug the basking light in without the stat so it goes high enough for her to bask but obviously this isn't ideal and can't do that all day every day but right now I have to so she doesn't get ill, cool end is usually OK between 26-28 degrees Celsius any help appreciated, my beardie is cali and she is 7 weeks old


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## murrindindi (Feb 19, 2009)

Calis mom said:


> Hi sorry to jump on here but I'm in the same boat and also feeling very frustrated and upset I want my babys viv to be perfect for her, ive got a 150 watt bulb with the habistat dimming thermostat, and the arcadia uvb bulb, my problem is I can't get the basking spot warm enough, I've tried the probe in different areas to see if it will work its been in the middle of the viv, on the cool end, on the basking spot, under the basking spot and temp won't go higher than 38 degrees Celsius unless I open the viv door in which case it will go to 40-41 degrees Celsius but when I close door it just goes back down, I've literally been sitting infront of viv everyday 5 times at least to plug the basking light in without the stat so it goes high enough for her to bask but obviously this isn't ideal and can't do that all day every day but right now I have to so she doesn't get ill, cool end is usually OK between 26-28 degrees Celsius any help appreciated, my beardie is cali and she is 7 weeks old


Hi, you cannot measure the surface temp of an object with the probe, that measures the ambient (air) temps, you need an IR (infrared) Temp-gun, they are relatively cheap but very effective. You need to know two temps during "activity time" they are the lowest ambient @ approx. 21c (72f) then the surface temp @ between approx. 38 to 45c (100 to 115f). The humidity should range between approx. 30 to 60%+, the lower figure will be around the basking area, the higher in the cooler parts. Can you show a photo of the whole enclosure?









Komodo Infared Thermometer - Just Point and Click 701029824065 | eBay


This handy hi-tech tool is so easy to use ?.



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