# Do i have to use tile grout on polystyrene?



## in the gecko (Sep 21, 2008)

Im in the middle of my leos viv build. Iv just put the upstairs in 
And iv made a ramp for my leo to get upstairs and put some polystyrene as wall to prevent her from falling now i want to cover the polystyrene in pva + sand do i have to use tile grout? Or can i put pva on the polystyrene then throw sand at it?


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## IndigoFire (Apr 11, 2009)

From what I've done with model making I used 3/4 layers of tile grout, then paint, then pva, then sand (pva + sand mix). Yacht Varnish also works - but never used it tbh.


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## in the gecko (Sep 21, 2008)

Do i have to use tile grout?


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## SleepyD (Feb 13, 2008)

in the gecko said:


> Do i have to use tile grout?


well lets put it this way ~ the structure will be stronger, less liable to damage and assorted livefood will find it harder to eat their way into it :whistling2:


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## Mouki (Apr 29, 2009)

in the gecko said:


> Do i have to use tile grout?


i would if i were you :2thumb:

i used grout on mine : victory:


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## in the gecko (Sep 21, 2008)

Il go to wilkos in the morning and get some. Is there a certain grout to use?


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## thetomahawkkid58 (Jan 7, 2009)

buy the powdered grout and mix it yourself, and gradually thicken the mix for each layer. hope this help's.


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## Sollytear (Aug 7, 2008)

Each of the layers has an important role to play. 

1) Polystyrene - gives it the shape quickly and cheaply
2) Grout (pref. Adhesive + Grouting combined, pre made) - gives the structure strength and will stop any fooditems/your pets eating the polystyrene. Without this, a reptile could easily scratch through the rest of the layers and ruin your work. 3 or 4 layers. First thin to get into all areas (+water), and work up in thickness. Your last layer should be the thickness the grout is supplied at or recommended to be watered to (if powdered). Expect each layer to take you a good few hour and to take 24 to dry. Try adding paint into each layer so you can see which areas you have done. Also, this stage adds alot of thickness to your design, and expect up to 1cm growth.
3) Cosmetics - Add your paint, sand, etc NOW. Your structure is made and now you want it to look good. I used PVA + sand in 3 seperate layers with a day inbetween to dry. Tip: Sand you use must be BONE DRY. Add the PVA then sprinkle sand on it and then tip the excess off. Allow to dry. Repeat. Make sure the sand you use is the colour you want. After the sand you may want to add some painted on features, like blue for the water bowl, or paint vines going up the wall, etc.
4) Yatch Varnish (important to get eco/animal friendly/low VOC) - your creation now needs to be made water proof. Varnish works amazingly. You want satin clear (clear obviously, satin for the texture and finish). You also need low VOC (advertised as eco or animal friendly) as varnish gives off high-toxic gases for years. Low VOC has alot less toxic gases, so is safer. Again, 2 layers, perhaps 3. Lets face it, you can only get 750ml tins of eco varnish and so you have loads to spare. 
5) Waiting - 2weeks or so. This gives your creation time to allow the majority of the toxic gases to sublimate. Without this you may end up causing health issues for your reptiles.
6) Finishing off - I personally added some spag moss in the corners that looked messy and in vine-style strips up the walls. Used minimal PVA to attach it.


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## Sollytear (Aug 7, 2008)

This is the grouting I think is best:
Homebase Floor Adhesive and Grout - 10L from Homebase.co.uk
I tried a few and this was the best.

Yatch varnish:
Ronseal Eco Varnish Clear Satin 750ml, 5010214859139

PVA:
Evo Stik Super Evo-Bond PVA 122208 1 Litre, 5010591002609


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