# Varnish?



## fuzzzzbuzzzz (Apr 11, 2010)

Hiya,

I'm just going to B&Q now to get the materials I need for a fake rock build. I was just wondering do I need to buy varnish, or can I just do 3-5 layers of grout?

I have heard some people talking about using varnish, but I presumed it was just personal prefererance rather than a necessity. 

Gemma


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## mic-b (Aug 3, 2011)

NOOOO buy varnish it has a number of benefits, seals in the grout and paint (if painted) adds more durability, and also protects the grout from forming mould, or staying damp etc etc.
post pics of your work always good to see what people are up to...

this is one of mine, check it out if you get chance  peace and love : victory:

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/habitat/732279-6x4x3-custom-wooden-viv-big.html


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## fuzzzzbuzzzz (Apr 11, 2010)

mic-b said:


> NOOOO buy varnish it has a number of benefits, seals in the grout and paint (if painted) adds more durability, and also protects the grout from forming mould, or staying damp etc etc.
> post pics of your work always good to see what people are up to...
> 
> this is one of mine, check it out if you get chance  peace and love : victory:
> ...


Thanks, I will buy some, just to make sure, and i'll post pics and check out your viv build

Gemma


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## Pendragon (Dec 8, 2008)

It's up to you, I personally don't bother with varnish, it's completly unnecessary : victory:

Good luck

Jay


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## Kyukaji (Feb 23, 2009)

Pendragon said:


> It's up to you, I personally don't bother with varnish, it's completly unnecessary : victory:
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Jay


i would say the lack of varnish might make ure fake rock get stained by ur rep surely?


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## KWIBEZEE (Mar 15, 2010)

Kyukaji said:


> i would say the lack of varnish might make ure fake rock get stained by ur rep surely?


Exactly. Be sure the grout you buy is a quality product - one that is anti-fungal etc. I have noticed that even a clear varnish will make the fake rock colour slightly darker. Best also build up the fake rock in several layers as oppossed to one or two "slap it on" coats. Allow loads of time ( at least 24 hours between coats / 2 thin coats - inner bond strength becomes more rigid this way). Also allow at least 3 -4 days before then applying the varnish. Hope you got a well ventilated room or an out-building when using the varnish because it will stink for at least another 24 hours thereafter. Again allow maximum drying times between coats although I'm sure one coat will be sufficient. You got to allow the varnish to CURE - that is when it dries, internally hardens and all the VOC and other such chemicals can effuse away and no smell prevails. Once completely dry and cured and if you have constructed the fake wall in sections and have not placed it within the enclosure I would advice you to rinse it over a couple of times or even leave it in the bath in tepid/warm water. I left a couple of my sections outside in the rain fora week. Okay I'm being over cautious but really at the time the gf wouldn't allow the said in the house due to me having a chesty cough and she knew the volatile varnish smell was aggrivating the said. Good luck buddy. As MIC-B said - be sure to post some pictures.


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## Pendragon (Dec 8, 2008)

Kyukaji said:


> i would say the lack of varnish might make ure fake rock get stained by ur rep surely?


Good, that's what I want, it's called...Natural :lol2:

But seriously, people in this section keep going on about "sealing" the background with varnish as though it is a "must do", it isn't, so long as you used the right materials and built it correctly then there is no need to varnish it.

It is a personal choice, not a necessity : victory:

Jay


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## fuzzzzbuzzzz (Apr 11, 2010)

Thankyou, I'm not sure about the varnish, I have been thinking about it. I have used grout from wickes, thats mould resistant and waterproof - So I was wondering if I just put a few layers of that on then it would be fine. 

Gemma


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## AliMak (Sep 20, 2010)

i was about to ask a Q but then saw this thread. im doing a build with bamboo, painted and using varnish to finish.

got some Wickes Interior varnish but just concerned with the fumes and high VOC content. Someone has mentioned above it evaporates away but could anyone tell me if this varnish will be safe to use:

Professional Interior Varnish Satin - Solvent Varnish - Varnish -Decorating & Interiors - Wickes

Thanks :2thumb:


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## fuzzzzbuzzzz (Apr 11, 2010)

AliMak said:


> i was about to ask a Q but then saw this thread. im doing a build with bamboo, painted and using varnish to finish.
> 
> got some Wickes Interior varnish but just concerned with the fumes and high VOC content. Someone has mentioned above it evaporates away but could anyone tell me if this varnish will be safe to use:
> 
> ...


Hiya,

This is recommended: Ronseal Yacht Varnish Clear 1L, 5010214802449

Then put in a warm / hot area for a week or two and let the fumes dissapate. I'm not to sure about the interior varnish, but i'll have a look for you.

Gemma


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## AliMak (Sep 20, 2010)

that varnish also has a high VOC content and other similar qualities. i think as long as i leave it for a week to "air" it should be fine. thanks


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## Pendragon (Dec 8, 2008)

AliMak said:


> i was about to ask a Q but then saw this thread. im doing a build with bamboo, painted and using varnish to finish.
> 
> got some Wickes Interior varnish but just concerned with the fumes and high VOC content. Someone has mentioned above it evaporates away but could anyone tell me if this varnish will be safe to use:
> 
> ...





AliMak said:


> that varnish also has a high VOC content and other similar qualities. i think as long as i leave it for a week to "air" it should be fine. thanks


Hi mate,

All resins, glues, paints, varnishes, silicones are safe when fully cured : victory:

Jay


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## AliMak (Sep 20, 2010)

Pendragon said:


> Hi mate,
> 
> All resins, glues, paints, varnishes, silicones are safe when fully cured : victory:
> 
> Jay


Cheers bud


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## Kyukaji (Feb 23, 2009)

Pendragon said:


> Good, that's what I want, it's called...Natural :lol2:
> 
> But seriously, people in this section keep going on about "sealing" the background with varnish as though it is a "must do", it isn't, so long as you used the right materials and built it correctly then there is no need to varnish it.
> 
> ...


all well and good staying natural but lack of a coat may not be needed but also make ur fake rock last half as long if not less due to getting wet/urine or even feces that mark the floor. might mean u need to re-make one regularly.. if you want a real natural look you can always use matt varnish over the normal glossy varnish.


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## Pendragon (Dec 8, 2008)

Kyukaji said:


> all well and good staying natural but lack of a coat may not be needed but also make ur fake rock last half as long if not less due to getting wet/urine or even feces that mark the floor. might mean u need to re-make one regularly.. if you want a real natural look you can always use matt varnish over the normal glossy varnish.


 
Fake backgrounds are on the back of the viv, not the floor : victory:

What you are saying is mere speculation and guess work, I prefer facts thanks.

Offer your opinions as "opinions" and not as "facts" 

Cheers Jay


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## Welsh dragon (Oct 27, 2009)

B&Q Quick Dry Interior Varnish Clear, 0000003203842 ; 0000003203828

I used this on my last fake build as its low odour and low VOC IT DRIED QUICK AND HARDLY ANY SMELL.


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## KWIBEZEE (Mar 15, 2010)

Okay guys there seems to be a little dispute as to what is best etc. What I am finding with just leaving the dried grout as it is is that it is tending to chip and flake in one or two areas! I have a few sections that are very thin though! These recieved less layers of grout, spray paint and spray sealer ( Rust-Oleum). Today whilst varnishing the exterior wood frame I applied a small amont to one of the thin grouted sections. Now several hours later and dry it is quite rigid - much more so than before. I will opt to either coat it in YACHT varnish or possibly try a product called PLASTI-DIP HRF which is water based, acrylic, zero fire risk, low VOC, yet bonds & sets, cures seals like a solvent. I have sent the company an email and am just waiting for a responce.

BTW - IMO I would opt topay a little more for a quality varnish like Yacht varnish as opposed to an Interior varnish. Also you may like to try epoxy resin. I purchased a 20 minute marine grade type from ebay for about £20 delivered. It is superior to anything else. It is used on surf-boards and yachts etc and available in matt. You may opt for a type that has a longer drying time such as an hour etc. The one I had was from another project but it sets hard in 20 - 30 minutes so its brush like the clappers :gasp:

I used it to treat the interior of the OSB wood that has been used in the latest construction and it is rock solid. Well at over 4'x2'x2', with one end tiled :mf_dribble: = it has to be :whistling2: okay - gorgeous signing off. ( wil post a thread on my build once totally complete - just put in the ventilation system and working on the mini-fans : victory: )...


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## AliMak (Sep 20, 2010)

sounds good, ill look out for the pics. although the yacht varnish is the best option, do you think the other varnishes used like the interior varnish etc are still ok for use in custom builds? as the everyday use will be much less then surf boards and yachts would get.


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## ch4dg (Jul 24, 2008)

i'm voting on the varnish is good idea....just makes it easier to clean.



Pendragon said:


> Fake backgrounds are on the back of the viv, not the floor : victory:


that doesn't really apply to geckos as they S:censor:T everywhere, plus i build loads of base stuff and basking spots



AliMak said:


> do you think the other varnishes used like the interior varnish etc are still ok for use in custom builds?


yeah, the standard stuff is fine.... i use £1 tins not £20 branded stuff and mine have lasted years: victory:


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## dinostore (Feb 23, 2011)

ch4dg said:


> i'm voting on the varnish is good idea....just makes it easier to clean.
> 
> 
> that doesn't really apply to geckos as they S:censor:T everywhere, plus i build loads of base stuff and basking spots
> ...


agreed :notworthy:


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## KWIBEZEE (Mar 15, 2010)

Pendragon said:


> Hi mate,
> 
> All resins, glues, paints, varnishes, silicones are safe when fully cured : victory:
> 
> Jay


and here's my recent build - used the lot - varnish, resins,epoxy, marine silicon HP6, Gorilla Glue, expandable foam, auto spray paints, model sprays and sealers... All cured, manufacturers instructions read etc


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