# New Bearded Dragon owner - Confused????



## Kat and Billy (Feb 16, 2010)

Hi everyone, we're new to the reptile family. My partner has been wanting a pet for a while now and as i'm allergic to everything with fur, a reptile seemed fitting and when i saw how cute bearded dragons were, i couldn't say no.

We're now new owners of a 6 month old bearded dragon who we got on Saturday and named Eddie.

Unfortunately, it wasn't the best start for him. We got him home and ready to go into his new vivarium and it was all smashed and damaged at the bottom. So he's currently in a small viv till tomorrow.

He's eating and pooping fine. But i'm worried he's not taking water. I have been misting him, and keeping his greens and fruit moist. Is this ok?

As his current home is small, the pet shop advised us at the moment, so have his heat lamp on for an hr, off for an hr and so on as he's not got an ideal place to cool down, so this will allow him to cool down. Is this correct? (even if his temperature in the small viv isn't above 85?)

When we get his new home, we want to make sure that we have everything he needs:

His new home will be 3x2x2
We have a 75w heat lamp which isn't giving enough heat for his basking spot, so we're planning on getting him a 100w bulb to provide this.
We have a heat mat, however after reading some horror stories of some bearded dragons burning their tummy i'm reluctant to use them.
We thought he also needed a UV light (e.g. we were thinking a strip light along the length of his new viv) but the pet shop told us that the heat lamp we have will be enough. Is this correct? I can understand in a small viv, that the heat lamp if indeed also gives UV would be enough, but in a larger viv, is this the case?

Also, when he's in his new viv, does the heat lamp, UV light stay on throughout the day and only turn off during the night?

Sorry for all the questions etc, I just wanted to speak to people who actually have bearded dragons and who could help as there is so much conflicting information out there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Kat.


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

Kat and Billy said:


> Unfortunately, it wasn't the best start for him. We got him home and ready to go into his new vivarium and it was all smashed and damaged at the bottom. So he's currently in a small viv till tomorrow.


Strangely enough that was a great start.. it's a 3x2x2 glass viv when it should really be a 4x2x2 wooden viv. Seeing as it's broken you'd be best returning it and getitng a 4x2x2 wooden viv.



> He's eating and pooping fine. But i'm worried he's not taking water. I have been misting him, and keeping his greens and fruit moist. Is this ok?


they're desert animals so they rarely come across pools of water and even more rare that they get misted. They'll take their water from their food.
Misting can cause respitory problems, if you do want to mist then give any greenery a light misting and he can lick the water off there.

[/quote]
As his current home is small, the pet shop advised us at the moment, so have his heat lamp on for an hr, off for an hr and so on as he's not got an ideal place to cool down, so this will allow him to cool down. Is this correct? (even if his temperature in the small viv isn't above 85?)
[/quote]

Sounds like the person in the shop didn't want to risk losing a sale by telling you to spend another £40 on a dimming thermostat.
If a 75watt bulb in a small viv isn't getitng over 85f then something is wrong... a 75watt bulb should turn a small viv into a microwave, and if it's not statted there's nowhere for the beardie to thermoregulate.
Turning it on and off every hour is the shop keepers way of not selling you a dimming thermostat.. it'll annoy the beardie and it'll annoy you.



> His new home will be 3x2x2


Like i said, go for a 4x2x2 wooden one.



> We have a 75w heat lamp which isn't giving enough heat for his basking spot, so we're planning on getting him a 100w bulb to provide this.


75watt should be fine, use it on a dimming stat and get digital thermometers.



> We have a heat mat, however after reading some horror stories of some bearded dragons burning their tummy i'm reluctant to use them.


yep, not needed unless your house gets very cold at night.. if it does then put the heat mat on the side of the viv.

[/quote]
We thought he also needed a UV light (e.g. we were thinking a strip light along the length of his new viv) but the pet shop told us that the heat lamp we have will be enough. Is this correct? I can understand in a small viv, that the heat lamp if indeed also gives UV would be enough, but in a larger viv, is this the case?
[/quote]

the shop keeper either:
a - sold you a megaray (combined UVB and heat lamp)
b - is a prick.


either way he's a prick as beardies need UVB and your viv size is far too small for a megaray.
Again it sounds like him not wanting to lose a sale by bumping the price up. You need at least a 10.0 UVB tube to run the length of the viv.. 12.0 are better but not everywhere stocks them.



> Also, when he's in his new viv, does the heat lamp, UV light stay on throughout the day and only turn off during the night?


12 hours on and 12 off, except in winter when it's about 10 and 14.



> Sorry for all the questions etc, I just wanted to speak to people who actually have bearded dragons and who could help as there is so much conflicting information out there.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Kat.


 
if i've missed something no doubt somebody will point it out.

ps... the shop keeper's a prick.


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

*** guessing it was a glass viv with it being smashed and damaged at the bottom... so i was presuming it's an exo terra 90*30*30 ***


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## Kat and Billy (Feb 16, 2010)

Meko said:


> Sounds like the person in the shop didn't want to risk losing a sale by telling you to spend another £40 on a dimming thermostat.
> If a 75watt bulb in a small viv isn't getitng over 85f then something is wrong... a 75watt bulb should turn a small viv into a microwave, and if it's not statted there's nowhere for the beardie to thermoregulate.
> Turning it on and off every hour is the shop keepers way of not selling you a dimming thermostat.. it'll annoy the beardie and it'll annoy you.


Yeah i noticed when we turn off the heat lamp, he gets really jumpy, but then calms down shortly after.

I was reluctant to switch it off at all as the temperature in there is no more than 85, like you said, it should be hotter. But the other end of the viv (not that it's that far away) is about 70. So he can go over that side and cool down.

I'll be getting a thermostat definitely.

Thanks for your help.


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## Tiger Lily (Dec 28, 2009)

Meko, You forgot to point out that the shop keeper is a prick.

Kat, Read some care sheets, there's plenty around  It seems very weird that the bulb isn't getting the basking spot above 85f. How are you measuring this temp?

I suggest a digital thermometer, and placing it on/very near the point under the bulb which is your basking spot. A 75w bulb should hit those temps easily.

Also, a dimming thermostat is essential. Using a bulb without one can lead to a Crispy Beardie, and that's not what you want.

Also, a UVb bulb is definately required. In a 3ft viv, something like a 10.0 Exo-Terra Sunglo, and an Arcadia Starter and Reflector should do. The UVb helps your beardie convert the calcium into big strong bones (Vitamin D, much like humans).

What are you feeding the beardie? If the owner of the shop failed to point out the need of UVb they may have failed to give you proper diet information. Again, this can all be found on one of the many care sheets the internet has to offer.

Mitch


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## markg (Apr 20, 2009)

The advice from meko and tiger lily sounds spot on. I cannot believe the advice you have received from the shop assistant I am suprised they have any reptiles alive to sell! Just one point I wanted to touch on is that it is a must to have all heat sources controlled by thermostats, and that when installing the thermostat probe it needs to be placed down the cool end of the viv and set the thermostat to 80-85F setting the thermostat up this way will ensure your viv never overheats and your beardie has somewhere to cool down. (It is a common mistake to place the probe at the hot end or in the middle). Sorry if this has confused you, but if you need any more help you can always PM me and I will be happy to help. Good luck with your new beardie!


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## stevenw (Feb 28, 2009)

putting the thermostat probe in the hot end is not wrong ... 

it controls the heat of your basking spot (the place your beardie goes most) 
if you get that right in the right size viv it works fine


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## markg (Apr 20, 2009)

I don't want to go off the topic here, but placing the probe in the hot end is most definately wrong for 2 reasons.

1) Thermostats (habistat dimmer stats for example) only reach a max temp of 92F which is *nowhere* near enough for the basking area of a young bearded dragon, which should be around 110F.

2) And the most important reason is that if the probe is placed at the hot end of the viv, On a hot day your viv has the potential to heat up to the maximum temp set for the hot end, giving your animal no choice of temps to thermo-regulate. which is potentially fatal!!! With the probe down the cool end, if the ambient room temp rises the thermostat works to try and maintain the correct temp of the cool end, keeping the vivs environment safe for the animal.

A thermostat is used to prevent overheating, not to correct underheating.


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

the location of the thermostat probe is an endless topic.. Although what you do need to ensure is that the temperatures are right; basking spot, hot end, ambient and cool end. 
If your probe is in the hot end and you get all the right temps, then great. If your probe is in the middle then you get the right temps, then superb... etc. It doesn't actually matter where as long as your temperatures are right.


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## stevenw (Feb 28, 2009)

*.........*



markg said:


> I don't want to go off the topic here, but placing the probe in the hot end is most definately wrong for 2 reasons.
> 
> 1) Thermostats (habistat dimmer stats for example) only reach a max temp of 92F which is *nowhere* near enough for the basking area of a young bearded dragon, which should be around 110F.
> 
> ...


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## stevenw (Feb 28, 2009)

Meko said:


> the location of the thermostat probe is an endless topic.. Although what you do need to ensure is that the temperatures are right; basking spot, hot end, ambient and cool end.
> If your probe is in the hot end and you get all the right temps, then great. If your probe is in the middle then you get the right temps, then superb... etc. It doesn't actually matter where as long as your temperatures are right.



thankyou .... as i said if you get the temps correct its not wrong to put it anywhere if it works


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## Kat and Billy (Feb 16, 2010)

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Sorry if I caused a little upset there between you all.
But this is what I'm meaning, there's conflicting advice everywhere and i'm stuck on what to do.

My other half is out just now to get a thermostat for the heat lamp and a UV light etc.

So the light/heat set up of the viv will be a heat lamp providing a basking spot and a UV light which will be the length of the viv. Will this provide the correct temps and lighting i need in the viv?

Thanks
Kat.


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## Mitch_Moshi (Apr 18, 2008)

Kat and Billy said:


> So the light/heat set up of the viv will be a heat lamp providing a basking spot and a UV light which will be the length of the viv. Will this provide the correct temps and lighting i need in the viv?
> 
> Thanks
> Kat.


Yes  

In most cases that will do fine 

Just check your temps when it's set up before putting the beardie in, but that should have you sorted


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## anthony reilly (Jan 16, 2010)

Yup you will need a UV strip in his new viv and as tiger lily said read some care sheets there is more than enough on this forum and easy to find.

sounds like that shop owner doesn't know his ass from his elbow lol.


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## Lynsey84 (Feb 17, 2010)

Hey there, my names's Lynsey. I'm a new bearded dragon owner myself. I've never seen Indie drink from her water dish either but they do get a lot of their water from their food. Also if you have a heat mat then it has to get kept on 24 hours a day but the basking light (heat light) and uv light only get kept on for 12-14 hours a day, during winter and 14-16 hours a day in summer. I also bought 2 books when i first got Indie which i found really good. They're called The Bearded Dragon Manual and The Pet Owners Guide To The Bearded Dragon. I hope i've been a bit of help to you both. I'm still learning myself but you will be surprised at how quick you pick things up. If you need any other help add me on msn, my address is [email protected] I hope Eddie gets on ok.


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## Mitch_Moshi (Apr 18, 2008)

Lynsey84 said:


> Hey there, my names's Lynsey. I'm a new bearded dragon owner myself. I've never seen Indie drink from her water dish either but they do get a lot of their water from their food. Also if you have a heat mat then it has to get kept on 24 hours a day but the basking light (heat light) and uv light only get kept on for 12-14 hours a day, during winter and 14-16 hours a day in summer. I also bought 2 books when i first got Indie which i found really good. They're called The Bearded Dragon Manual and The Pet Owners Guide To The Bearded Dragon. I hope i've been a bit of help to you both. I'm still learning myself but you will be surprised at how quick you pick things up. If you need any other help add me on msn, my address is [email protected] I hope Eddie gets on ok.


I've had Stheno (Not a liazrd I know) for over 18 months, and I've only ever seen her drink twice  

I think it's good to offer them it, even if you don't seem them use it, doesn't mean that they're not


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

Lynsey84 said:


> . Also if you have a heat mat then it has to get kept on 24 hours a day .


nope, it needs to be put in a drawer till you but a small snake or a leopard gecko.


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## chrissybaker (Feb 12, 2010)

i have a bearded dragon and i would say if your not sure about if the little one isnt gettting the best invorment get a thermostate and that will keep the temp up were it should be with giving you any probs ok and most young dragon dont drink from a bolw but tend to drink the misted water from salade and of plant matter in the viv hope this helps i ve always used a thermostate and ive never had any probs with her and mine is now 3 years old this year in june


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## lee young (Oct 14, 2009)

chrissybaker said:


> i have a bearded dragon and i would say if your not sure about if the little one isnt gettting the best invorment get a thermostate and that will keep the temp up were it should be with giving you any probs ok and most young dragon dont drink from a bolw but tend to drink the misted water from salade and of plant matter in the viv hope this helps i ve always used a thermostate and ive never had any probs with her and mine is now 3 years old this year in june


.....and breathe....Longest Sentence Ever?


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## babymarley (Nov 24, 2009)

Hey i just read your post and you should have a uv bulb, temps in hot end for dragon should be 110f - 95f, the cool end should be 85f and make sure you are dusting his feg or live food with calcium dust ever other day (if you dont do this the dragon could end up very ill and die from metic bolic bone disease. I hope this helps please feel free to pm me for anyother information you need.: victory:


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## jef_b (Mar 7, 2010)

A lot of good advice on here, but one thing I noticed, with the guys arguing over the placement of the thermo... why not have one on each end, so you know what the temps are on both sides, rather than just settling for one. If you need to know the temp differential, I would find a way to read the temps at both ends of the tank, which is something I have always tried to do.


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