# How much to feed Fire Bellied Toads??



## Mr Bee (Jul 10, 2009)

Please help, I'm confused!


I have just got my FBT's today - 3 in a 60L 60/40 split setup, but am confused about how many crickets to feed. The cricks I've got are probably around 1cm or so long.

I'd read you only need to feed 3 or 4 twice a week per toad, but the shop I got them from said one toad would go through a box of crickets in a week (there must be a good 70 - 100 in a box!!) but this sounds a lot to me.


So far today, I gave them 3 each, can you recommend how many to feed (I'm told the FBT's are adult size) each toad and how often, like do they need to be fed every day, every other day, twice a week??

Also, the shop said dusting with calcium is not necessary, and don't need to supply water/bug gel as long as I gut load them with moist food like carrot and apple - is this correct?


Please help, as I now have 3 toads to look after, but the man in the shop has confused me with feeding, and I don't want to under or over feed my new little toadies!!


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

Mr Bee said:


> Please help, I'm confused!
> 
> 
> I have just got my FBT's today - 3 in a 60L 60/40 split setup, but am confused about how many crickets to feed. The cricks I've got are probably around 1cm or so long.
> ...


Dusting is a good idea at least once a week, and the toads will appreciate rather more than 3 at a feed! Gutloading is a good idea, though. I feed mine every couple of days- they do have a tendancy to squaff anything you give them, though, so if you see that they are starting to get overweight, cut back. Really, you can't apply a 'formula'- over time you'll get a feel for how much is enough. Also think about giving them a wider range of foods- in addition to crickets, mine take small locust hoppers, mealworm beetles, waxworms (in moderation; these are *really* fattening!) worms, woodlice, spiders, moths, crane flies ('daddy-long-legs), snails and slugs.


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## RhianB87 (Oct 25, 2009)

I dust every few feeds. 
Mine get quite a lot, but I guess it would work out as about 8-10 each, which they get fed every 3 days. But I do have 6 of the fatties!


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## Mr Bee (Jul 10, 2009)

Thanks for replies...

Ron, how do you know if a frog is too fat? I don't really know what their ideal size or shape should be, I guess if they look bulging or stop being active, they need less food.

I gave them another 4 each today with calcium (lime flour) powder on, so if I aim to start with about 20 each a week does that sound enough, or is it best to feed more and then cut back if they start looking too fat?

I always have mealworms to hand for my Pygmy Hedgehog, but I read that FBTs can't digest the chitin very well? 
And is it OK to just feed any random spider/woodlice/moth I find, is there no risk of diseases if they come in from outside? I just worry, as there's been some concern about slug and snails carrying lungworm which can affect reptiles. 
I assume if you fed something else, you would then kind of 'substitute' that for a similar size of cricket and feed a cricket or 2 less in total?


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

Mr Bee said:


> Thanks for replies...
> 
> Ron, how do you know if a frog is too fat? I don't really know what their ideal size or shape should be, I guess if they look bulging or stop being active, they need less food.
> 
> ...


To my knowledge, the famous lungworm that affects mammals doesn't affect reptiles and amphibians- I'm happy to be proved wrong, though. I personally believe that wild- caught invertebrates are far more nutritious than commercially-bred 'fast food'- some may disagree. In my experience, most frogs and toads don't have a problem with chitin- they will simply pass anything they don't digest, without harm. Many years ago, I did a school study analysing the droppings of wild-caught cane toads- beetle wing cases and crushed snail shells were a common part. And in all the time I have been keeping 'phibs, I have never had a problem I could directly relate to wild-caught food.


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## s6t6nic6l (May 15, 2010)

lungworm will cause nodules in a frog/toad's lung and will cause inflammation that could lead to Pneumonia. cases do exist. i personaly would never give a snail/slug to any pet kept. tho' the parasite could be introduced by other methods into the habitat this is really the one to avoid at all cost. please note that even the trail of the snail/slug can harbour the eggs that other inmates could get affected by.

nic


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

s6t6nic6l said:


> lungworm will cause nodules in a frog/toad's lung and will cause inflammation that could lead to Pneumonia. cases do exist. i personaly would never give a snail/slug to any pet kept. tho' the parasite could be introduced by other methods into the habitat this is really the one to avoid at all cost. please note that even the trail of the snail/slug can harbour the eggs that other inmates could get affected by.
> 
> nic


Ok, Nic, that's interesting. Any Online sources I can follow it up on?


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## lizamphid1 (Dec 15, 2008)

heard about slugs and dogs but not slugs and phibs, i feed my sals on the odd white slug, i may now stop just in case , be good to find some proof that phibs and slugs dont go well


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