# Ornate Horned frog, Can anyone give me more info?



## mrblue2008 (Jan 27, 2009)

Hello,

I have always been interested in frogs/toads and just recently bought an Horned frog, the reptile guy at the pet shop said it was male & 5 years old, he also said he is not going to grow anymore.

I have named him pancake, he is an Albino and very round, when he sits in his hole he looks very much like a pancake! not really knowing much about these animals i have tons of questions so if anyone can help me i would love to hear from you.

questions:

is feeding him mice ok? if so how often?
will he grow much more hes about 3" round?
does his food (mice) need dusting with Nutrobal?
will he need the tank light on everyday or is it too much? his eyes go funny when the light is on
is it normal for him to just sit, he is so lazy?
can he be handled?

if anyone has any other info that might be interesting or good links i would be more than happy to know. am so interested in frogs now. might bbuy another one soon.

cheers all, mark


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## Morgan Freeman (Jan 14, 2009)

Mice should be a treat, say once a month.

If he's 5 years old, he should me more than 3", unless you meant months?

Food will need supplementing with calcium and vitamins yes.

Lights should ideally regulate night and day so yes, what lighting do you have?

They are very lazy apart from feeding time. I wouldn't handle them, they will get stressed and you wouldn't fancy getting bitten by one.

What temp and humidity do you have?


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## mrblue2008 (Jan 27, 2009)

Hi, 

thank you for getting in touch, the pet shop did say 5 years but i have seen so many pictures of Horned frogs and all of them seem much bigger than him.
I am feeding him mice only at the minute, so i will start feeding him crickets etc. does he require feeding every week?

the temp does differ a lot in his tank, he does have an under ground heat mat, which is out side his tank. the temp today is 75f at night it can get to 60f is this right temp? 

when i first got him he croaked at night in a few sudden bursts but now he doesnt really make any noise.

the Humidity is high, his tank is damp but not wet. is this ok

sorry for so many questions, but the chap at the pet shop really wasnt interested very much and i just want pancake to have the right care

cheers mark


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## deejay (Jun 20, 2009)

lights for albinos is a great big NO NO.
i would feed him every other day day and dust hisfood with calcium once a week.
i would also give him on a staple diet of earthworms and everything else occasionally i.e locusts,crickets,waxworms,mealworms....keep the humidity high and the temp between 25-30 and dropping slightly at night hope this helps.


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## mrblue2008 (Jan 27, 2009)

Hi Deejay,

yes does help thanks, i have been out & bought some crickets for him, must look dead in the box but a few seem to be alive! 
i am just reading about lighting for frogs, he actually does have a light in his tank & as done since i got him, hope hes ok, so you recommend no light at all?

cheers mark


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

The big problem for albinos (of any species) is the standard uv lights can cause problems with their eyes. Ordinary lights shouldn't cause a problem, so long as your frog has a hide to get away from the light if it needs it.


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## deejay (Jun 20, 2009)

Its alright mark, but yes i would not reccomend any uv lights at all for albinos as there eyes and skin are very sensitive i have quite alot of horned frogs including albinos all mine have uv lights except my albinos. i have a low wattage lamp in the centre of my albino tanks to give them a source of light...


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## Rico (Jan 5, 2007)

If its an albino its probably not an ornate its more likely to be ceratophrys cranwelli. I personaly would put the heat mat on the side rather than underneath.


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## deejay (Jun 20, 2009)

100% cranwelli.


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## mrblue2008 (Jan 27, 2009)

also been reading on this 100% cranwelli it is, you learn something everyday! the pet shop had it under ornate horned frog shows you how much they know! 
getting a new tank for him this week, do you think exo-terra 45x45x45 would be ok?
he's in 30x30x30 at the min.


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## deejay (Jun 20, 2009)

45x45x45 is fine...:2thumb:


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## mrblue2008 (Jan 27, 2009)

great, thanks for all the help, i will need a heat matt half the size of the tank am i correct?


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## TIMOTHY AND MATILDA (Oct 31, 2008)

mrblue2008 said:


> great, thanks for all the help, i will need a heat matt half the size of the tank am i correct?



yes thats correct :2thumb:


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## mrblue2008 (Jan 27, 2009)

thanks everyone!


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

TIMOTHY AND MATILDA said:


> yes thats correct :2thumb:


How's your new 'baby' getting on? Has he twitched or anything lately?:lol2:


You know I'm joking...:flrt:


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## mrblue2008 (Jan 27, 2009)

Hi, 

yeah hes ace! hes not up to much just sat in his ditch but from what i have been reading on here this is totally normal, got him a few crickets yesterday but hes not that interested in them at the minute.
been on the phone to loads of places this morning trying to find him a new tank, am going for the exo-terra, looks better than what hes in at the moment.
getting very into frogs now, trying to source out who's got fire bellied toads and an african bullfrog, i think my frog room is gunna be done quicker than i thought. 

am gunna try my best to get some photos on here of Pancake when he comes out of his ditch, so might be a while, everyones been very helpful & i feel alot more confident looking after him now


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## TIMOTHY AND MATILDA (Oct 31, 2008)

Ron Magpie said:


> How's your new 'baby' getting on? Has he twitched or anything lately?:lol2:
> 
> 
> You know I'm joking...:flrt:


well he is fab,the spent the morning in the pool,ate a worm,dug a hole and sat in it,so I put the telly on for him so he didnt get bored,he is much more active than I thought and secretly I want another one,an Albino,but I know how lucky I was to get this one so I am deffo not going to push it :lol2:


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## exboyz04 (Jun 22, 2008)

*Horned Frog Care Sheet*

*Lighting*
Horned Frogs should be kept out of direct sunlight and a low UVB tube is generally a welcome addition to the terrarium. Not only will it allow you to view your Horned Frog better, but it will also help your Horned Frog to convert some of it’s food intake into vitamin D3. If no UVB can be provided then it is more important to ensure that your Horned Frog’s food is dusted with vitamin D3 regularly.
The exception to the UVB bulb are albino Horned Frogs. UVB should not be used in terrariums housing albino varieties. UV lighting will burn your albino Horned Frogs skin and will eventually cause blindness.

*Horned Frog Care Sheet*
*Common name:* Horned Frog or Pacman Frog
*Scientific name:* There are many different species of Horned Frog, but the two most common Horned Frogs in the pet trade are:
The Ornate Horned Frog or Bell’s Horned Frog: Ceratophrys ornata
The Cranwell’s Horned Frog or Chacoan Horned Frog: Ceratophrys cranwelli
Other Horned Frogs are less commonly kept in captivity, but here are the scientific names of the other Horned Frogs in the Ceratophyrs family:
Amazonian Horned Frog or Surinam Horned Frog: Ceratophrys cornuta
Great Brazilian Horned Frog: Ceratophrys aurita
Columbian Horned Frog: Ceratophrys calcarata
Peruvian Horned Frog: Ceratophrys stolzmanni
Joazeiro Horned Frog: Ceratophrys joazeirensis
Another Horned Frog that occasionally appears in the pet trade is the Fantasy Horned Frog, but this is not classed as a species, but is rather a man-made hybrid of the Cranwell’s Horned Frog and the Amazonian Horned Frog. Fantasy Horned Frogs are popular for their attractive colourings, but are not kept for breeding purposes as they are unable to reproduce.

*Description:* 
Horned frogs are large bodied frogs that are so called because of their fleshy horn-like upper lids above their eyes. They have large mouths that seem too large for their bodies in comparison to their legs and front arms.

Ornate Horned Frogs tend to be a medium to dark green or yellow colour with red and black patches in their patterning. Cranwell’s Horned Frogs usually start out a bright green colour, but this will change as they grow into various combinations of brown, beige, green, orange and yellow. 
Cranwell’s Horned Frogs can also appear in an albino form.

*Size:* Ornate Horned Frogs tend to grow larger than the Cranwell’s Horned Frog, with Ornates reaching up to 13-15cm (5-6 inches), while Cranwell’s average at about 10-13cm (4-5 inches). Females tend to grow larger than males in both species. 

*Life span:* Horned Frogs can live up to 10 years with appropriate care, but average at about 6-7 years generally.

*Origin:* South America. 
Ornate Horned frogs can be found in Northern Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay, whilst Cranwell’s Horned Frogs originate from the Chacoan regions of Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia.
Habitat: Horned Frogs spend a lot of time buried just below the surface of the ground. They stay there camouflaged amongst the undergrowth and wait for prey to come to them. They are not very active and can grow a cocoon of skin around themselves in cool temperatures to help keep moisture in whilst they hibernate. This is called Estivation (see topic below). 
Ornate Horned Frogs are found in rainforest areas, while Cranwell’s are native to drier, sub-tropical grasslands.

*Interesting Facts about the Horned Frog*
Horned Frogs are sometimes called the Pac Man frog in reference to the computer game character. This is because the Horned Frog sometimes appears to be all mouth and has a very large appetite like the Pac Man character who tries to eat every ‘pac-dot’ on the board.
In South America, where the Horned Frogs originate from, they are many myths and superstitions about the Horned Frog. The locals call them ‘Ezcuerzos’, meaning simply ‘toad’ in Spanish. Some myths are positive about these frogs, stating that they are protective spirits of the water, whilst some stories claim that these frogs are so ferocious that they will kill large livestock like cattle and horses by biting onto their lips and not letting go until the poor beast has died.

*Temperament*
Horned Frogs are great first amphibians for beginners, because they are relatively easy to care for. They are also a very hardy species, so it is unlikely that your pet will become ill. 
The only thing to worry about with Horned Frogs is their predatory tendencies. They will generally eat anything that moves, including other Horned Frogs, so should be kept singularly. 
They can be aggressive, so be careful where you put your fingers. If they mistake your hand for food they have a very powerful jaw and grip, so it can be quite painful to experience.
If you are bitten by your Horned Frog it is unadvisable to pull your hand away from the bite as you can damage to your frog’s jaw that way. Holding the frog under running water should encourage your Horned Frog to let go and a simple antiseptic should be applied to the bitten area.

*Feeding*
Juvenile Horned Frogs should be fed daily, with calcium and vitamin D3 supplements added to the meal 2 to 3 times a week. Juveniles will eat small earthworms, pinkie mice, crickets and waxworms.
Adult horned frogs can handle larger prey items such as earthworms, locusts, crickets, cockroaches, mealworms, fuzzie to large mice, feeder fish, slugs and snails. Adults should be given supplements a least once a week.
Culturing your own food source is an interesting part of being an amphibian keeper. Earthworms, mealworms and crickets are all relatively easy to culture and simple to keep. Please see the 'Culturing Live Food' section on the forum for tips on how to set up your own live food source.

*Housing* 
Horned Frogs are fairly inactive so do not need really large enclosures. They will grow quite big though so adequate space should be provided to meet your Horned Frogs needs.
A glass tank, plastic RUB (really useful box) or a terrarium make good homes for Horned Frogs. They prefer a woodland type set up within their housing.

*Substrate*
Substrate should be checked regularly for defication as many Horned Frogs will dig down and deficate under the surface of the substrate

*Water*
All amphibians need fresh water daily. A large, shallow water bowl should be provided containing de-chlorinated or bottled spring water. Tap water may be used as long as it has been treated with a de-chlorinating solution such as repti-safe or aqua-safe. These will normally have added calcium which can be benificial to your frog.
Horned Frogs are not very able swimmers, so the depth of the water should be no higher than the height of your Horned Frogs mouth when at rest.
Horned Frogs like most amphibians will soak up water through their skin and since their water bowl is used as the main place to defecate it is important that it is cleaned daily.

*Humidity*
All species of Horned Frog require some humidity, with Ornate Horned Frogs needing relatively higher humidity than Cranwell’s Horned Frogs that only need medium humidity.
Lightly misting the terrarium daily with de-chlorinated water in a spray bottle should suffice to keep humidity at the right level for your Horned Frog. 
Ensure that between mistings the substrate remains damp, but not water logged.

*A place for your Horned Frog to hide *
All amphibians require somewhere to hide and may become stressed if this is not provided. Horned Frogs prefer to hide under the substrate and will bury themselves to stay hidden. Make sure the substrate is deep enough for your Horned Frog to do this.
Live plants can be used in your aquarium, but Horned Frogs are known to burrow, so expect them to be easily uprooted. 

*Heat*
The ideal temperature for your Horned Frog is a temperature gradient of 24-28°C (75- 82°F). 
Heat should be provided using a under tank heat mat with an appropriate thermostat. Heat mats should only cover between a third and a half of the wall or floor space to allow your Horned Frog to thermo-regulate. 
Never use heat lamps or basking lamps for amphibians, as these can cause your Horned Frog to dehydrate.
It's useful to have a small thermometer on either end of the terrarium to check the temperature. One end should be around 24°C and the other around 28°C to ensure that your Horned Frog can thermo-regulate by moving around the tank.

*Lighting*
Horned Frogs should be kept out of direct sunlight and a low UVB tube is generally a welcome addition to the terrarium. Not only will it allow you to view your Horned Frog better, but it will also help your Horned Frog to convert some of it’s food intake into vitamin D3. If no UVB can be provided then it is more important to ensure that your Horned Frog’s food is dusted with vitamin D3 regularly.
The exception to the UVB bulb are albino Horned Frogs. UVB should not be used in terrariums housing albino varieties. UV lighting will burn your albino Horned Frogs skin and will eventually cause blindness.

*Cleaning*
Your terrarium should be completely cleaned out on a weekly basis. Your Horned Frog should be moved to a temporary tank whilst being cleaned. All substrate and décor should be removed and refreshed. Use an amphibian safe disinfectant to clean the terrarium to prevent the build up of bacteria, but always ensure that all chemicals are thoroughly rinsed away, so that there is no chance that they will harm your Horned Frog.

*Handling*
Handling your Horned Frog should be avoided if at all possible.
Horned Frogs do not appreciate being handled and may become stressed or aggressive at the prospect.
All amphibians have delicate, absorbent skin and the oils and salts on our skin can cause them harm. If handling your Horned Frog is unavoidable, wearing latex gloves or washing your hands beforehand is advised.
Horned Frogs can give a nasty bite, so be extra careful when placing your hands and fingers near your frog’s mouth during handling. 

*Sloughing*
Horned Frogs shed their skin at regular intervals as they grow. The old skin is pushed off with the hind legs and the skin peels off from the back end. The skin should come off in one piece and is normally eaten by the frog. The skin is pushed forwards using its legs towards the mouth.

*Estivation*
Estivation is the term given to the period of hibernation that wild Horned Frogs usually go into during the cooler months. They create a cocoon from old skin that helps to seal in moisture whilst the frog buries itself in the ground to wait for the summer to come.
Your Horned Frog is unlikely to go into estivation if temperatures are controlled successfully, but if you experience a drop in temperatures or humidity within your terrarium, your Horned Frog may start to estivate.
You should not feed or disturb your Horned Frog during estavation, but fresh de-chlorinated water should always be available.
Bring your Horned Frog out of Estivation by slowly raising the temperatures or creating higher humidity over a few days. This should awaken your Horned Frog and bring them back to normal activity.

*Sexing*
The easiest way to determine the sex of your Horned Frog is by listening. Males will call during the mating season. They will also develop nuptial pads and tend to have darker coloured throats.
Females are usually larger than males and usually have a more rounded body shape.

*Breeding*
To stimulate your Horned Frogs to breed they will require a cooling period of two months beforehand. Reduce the temperatures and humidity and this should encourage your Horned Frogs to go into estivation. They should not be fed during this time.
Once out of estivation you will need to simulate a rainy season, by placing your Horned Frogs in a rain chamber or simply misting the terrarium a lot more frequently. Rain should be ceased once the frogs have bred and plants should be added so your female has something to attach the eggs to.
Horned Frogs can spawn between 1,000 and 2,000 eggs, which should be separated from the adults to avoid your frogs eating them. Eggs should hatch within 2 to 4 days.
Tadpoles are cannibalistic, so it is advisable to separate them if possible. If not, give the tadpoles plenty of room and hiding places to lower the rate of cannibalism. Feed them on black worms, tubifex or finely chopped earthworms daily.
Metamorphosis occurs within 3 to 5 weeks and froglets can begin eating a diet suitable for Juvenile Horned Frogs as soon as the tail is absorbed.

Hope this helps, good luck : victory:


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

VERY comprehensive!:no1: I don't give my amelonistic corn snake UV for the same reason- I worry about damaging his eyes. He's annoyingly healthy and ALWAYS hungry- and growing like a weed, so I must be doing SOMETHING right! Lol.

EDIT: @T&M: The television? So he doesn't get bored??? What programs does he like, Jeremy Kyle???? Hehehehehe!


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## TIMOTHY AND MATILDA (Oct 31, 2008)

Ron Magpie said:


> VERY comprehensive!:no1: I don't give my amelonistic corn snake UV for the same reason- I worry about damaging his eyes. He's annoyingly healthy and ALWAYS hungry- and growing like a weed, so I must be doing SOMETHING right! Lol.
> 
> EDIT: @T&M: The television? So he doesn't get bored??? What programs does he like, Jeremy Kyle???? Hehehehehe!



He watches sky news :2thumb::2thumb:


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## mrblue2008 (Jan 27, 2009)

exboyz04 said:


> *Lighting*
> Horned Frogs should be kept out of direct sunlight and a low UVB tube is generally a welcome addition to the terrarium. Not only will it allow you to view your Horned Frog better, but it will also help your Horned Frog to convert some of it’s food intake into vitamin D3. If no UVB can be provided then it is more important to ensure that your Horned Frog’s food is dusted with vitamin D3 regularly.
> The exception to the UVB bulb are albino Horned Frogs. UVB should not be used in terrariums housing albino varieties. UV lighting will burn your albino Horned Frogs skin and will eventually cause blindness.
> 
> ...


 
wow thanks for all the info, this is great stuff, all i need to know about Horned frogs, cheers mark


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## exboyz04 (Jun 22, 2008)

Your very welcome Mark know prob.
The more info people know about a annimal the better life is for them, happy to help.: victory:



mrblue2008 said:


> wow thanks for all the info, this is great stuff, all i need to know about Horned frogs, cheers mark


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