# Aquarium conversions



## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

So I want a new project and aquariums are pretty cheap and easy to come by so I fancied having a go at converting one in a similar way to the one on this thread on Dendroboard. The idea is turn the aquarium on it's end and have the top opening be the front and then have a door that drops open on a hinge with something to hold it in place at the top. I can't seem to find a suitable hinge though. Does anybody know a place to source the plastic clip on "living hinges" that they use in the states without having to import them? 

The only other idea I had was to follow the same method and have a panel siliconed on at at the bottom to keep the leca and substrate in and a similar panel with a vent siliconed on at the top. Instead of a traditional hinged or sliding door have a panel of glass (possibly with a frame round it) with magnets glued on and attach it to the frame that way. That way it can be removed for access for feeding and whatnot without having to faff about with hinges. I don't know if anybody's ever tried that before or if it'd work but I'm all for thinking outside the box.

Failing that if anybody has any ideas I'd appreciate any input. (Stu, Ade and Ritchie I'm looking at you. Maybe you too Ron. Maybe. I've still not forgiven you for those northern jibes ).


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## brysaa2 (Oct 11, 2009)

I have a 15 gallon knocking about too mate that I was looking at doing the same thing with :lol2:

In us they sell a conversion kit but I can't find any here in uk, you had any joy?


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

brysaa2 said:


> I have a 15 gallon knocking about too mate that I was looking at doing the same thing with :lol2:
> 
> In us they sell a conversion kit but I can't find any here in uk, you had any joy?


I don't have one spare but they're so common at car boots and things it'd be rude not to have a crack at least :lol2:

This is my problem- can't find any kits in this country and the type of hinge they use only seems available in the U.S too, it sort of clips on to both bits of glass you want to use but all I can find are traditional screw on hinges.


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## REDDEV1L (Nov 27, 2008)

I was going to send you the only other link to an aquarium conversion that I remember on here (http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/amphibians/628863-vert-conversion-pikey-style.html) but he's gone and deleted all his pics !!!!!

For the kind of hinge you're talking about, I used good old duct tape... mind you this was on a vivarium lid (I kept smashing the glass, and couldn't be arsed with the faff of sliding the glass out every time so cut some perspex and had it open like you want) .... not very visually appealing but it did for me


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

REDDEV1L said:


> I was going to send you the only other link to an aquarium conversion that I remember on here (http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/amphibians/628863-vert-conversion-pikey-style.html) but he's gone and deleted all his pics !!!!!
> 
> For the kind of hinge you're talking about, I used good old duct tape... mind you this was on a vivarium lid (I kept smashing the glass, and couldn't be arsed with the faff of sliding the glass out every time so cut some perspex and had it open like you want) .... not very visually appealing but it did for me


Cheers for that anyway though fella. I'd had a look through some old threads but some of their pics had gone as well and I could obviously do with seeing how it's done.

Bloody hell, I'd never thought of that. Did it hold well then? That could be a compromise, just have it fasten at the top end of the tank. Hmmmm, you've got me thinking now


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## colinm (Sep 20, 2008)

You wont find the hinge type fronts in the U.K.Last time I asked it was I was told that it because aquariums are not made perfectly square, so the fronts and the doors would not open properly.

If you want to put your aquarium upright then you can convert your aquarium by adding a glass plinth and doors but you will need to take off the top and put in a ventilation strip.

All in all its just as easy to buy a purpose built vivarium or make a proper dartfrog vivarium.If you want to use an aquarium keep it as anupright aquarium with a ventlited lid and gain access from the top.


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

An American book I have recommends making your own 'hinge' with silicon sealant. Doesn't sound very durable to me, though.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Silicone a strip of flexible rubber on the bottom panel and attach it to the door so it opens that way maybe?


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

colinm said:


> You wont find the hinge type fronts in the U.K.Last time I asked it was I was told that it because aquariums are not made perfectly square, so the fronts and the doors would not open properly.
> 
> If you want to put your aquarium upright then you can convert your aquarium by adding a glass plinth and doors but you will need to take off the top and put in a ventilation strip.
> 
> All in all its just as easy to buy a purpose built vivarium or make a proper dartfrog vivarium.If you want to use an aquarium keep it as anupright aquarium with a ventlited lid and gain access from the top.


I'd thought about just building one out of polycarb but I'd still have to sort out a way of making a door whether it slides or is hinged. 

I did think about having it horizontal and just working in the top opening but I can see it being a bit of a pain in the arse for background construction and planting. Also if it was for anything other than darts airflow might be an issue.


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## Sammyb (Jan 30, 2012)

I did a silmilar conversion glass panel at the bottom and a vented strip at the top for a door I used some glass runners and angled them from the outside of the vented end in so that it runs inside the tank to meet the bottom pannel then had some glass cut as a door that slides up and out? Hope that was explained well enough it's very easy to do I would upload a pic but I'm on holiday in Cambodia and not near the tank to show you?!


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## Heart4Darts (Oct 10, 2009)

Thats going to be my next project, but I'm planning on building a tank from scratch.
I get on well with my local glass shop so he'll sort me out with all the glass I need.


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## Heart4Darts (Oct 10, 2009)

Couldn't you get the us style clips sent over to you?


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Heart4Darts said:


> Couldn't you get the us style clips sent over to you?


I'd thought of that but it might cost a small fortune and might make it pointless to convert an aquarium as it'd probably be cheaper just to buy a new purpose built tank



Heart4Darts said:


> Thats going to be my next project, but I'm planning on building a tank from scratch.
> *I get on well with my local glass shop so he'll sort me out with all the glass I need*.


Show off


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## Heart4Darts (Oct 10, 2009)

ronnyjodes said:


> I'd thought of that but it might cost a small fortune and might make it pointless to convert an aquarium as it'd probably be cheaper just to buy a new purpose built tank


Is there no american users on here that you could pay to get 1, and then also pay him to send it over.
i know if i buy direct it'll cost a bomb to get it sent over, but if someone on here could pick it up for you, then send it as a normal parcel, it shouldn't cost so much.


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## fatlad69 (Oct 22, 2009)

Why not email the american company and see what the cost would be, may be cheaper than you think. Also look at some European companies to see if they do them, shipping may be cheaper.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

They apparantly only ship inside the states according to their website but a polite email might convince them otherwise.
I've found another US firm that makes and sells an entire front section with the door built in and everything but as was said earlier on in the thread aquariums aren't guaranteed to be square.
I've PMd detail3r for some tips on how he did his build.



Sammyb said:


> I did a silmilar conversion glass panel at the bottom and a vented strip at the top for a door I used some glass runners and angled them from the outside of the vented end in so that it runs inside the tank to meet the bottom pannel then had some glass cut as a door that slides up and out? Hope that was explained well enough it's very easy to do I would upload a pic but I'm on holiday in Cambodia and not near the tank to show you?!


That makes sense . That's actually a really good idea. So silicone in the bottom panel and the top vent, glassrunners infront of that so the "door" is essentially just a chunk of glass that slides upwards infront of the panel and out?


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## fatlad69 (Oct 22, 2009)

ronnyjodes said:


> They apparantly only ship inside the states according to their website but a polite email might convince them otherwise.
> I've found another US firm that makes and sells an entire front section with the door built in and everything but as was said earlier on in the thread aquariums aren't guaranteed to be square.
> I've PMd detail3r for some tips on how he did his build.
> 
> ...


Some of the early dartfrog vivs had a sloping front with a glass panel just leaning against the viv so runners with one panel sliding vertically is a great idea. It also means less chance of flies escaping. You can also have the substrate panel as deep as you like. The only issue of not having any vents at the top is the age old debate of UV lighting for dart frogs. You could have some holes drilled into the top but then it starts to defeat the object of a cheap viv. My early vivs I had two holes cut in the back to feed cables through and mounter my lights inside. It kept the temperature at around 75c and the frogs bred like mad. There is also the option of one panel sliding horizontally with runners top an bottom and one runner at the side to lock it into place.


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## darrensimps (Aug 16, 2009)

hi mate, just seen this thread, what about these cheap clear acrylic hinges on ebay

5 OR 20 SMALL ACRYLIC HINGES | eBay


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## fatlad69 (Oct 22, 2009)

darrensimps said:


> hi mate, just seen this thread, what about these cheap clear acrylic hinges on ebay
> 
> 5 OR 20 SMALL ACRYLIC HINGES | eBay


Looks like they do piano hinges as well which would spread the weight of the glass.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

fatlad69 said:


> Some of the early dartfrog vivs had a sloping front with a glass panel just leaning against the viv so runners with one panel sliding vertically is a great idea. It also means less chance of flies escaping. You can also have the substrate panel as deep as you like. The only issue of not having any vents at the top is the age old debate of UV lighting for dart frogs. You could have some holes drilled into the top but then it starts to defeat the object of a cheap viv. My early vivs I had two holes cut in the back to feed cables through and mounter my lights inside. It kept the temperature at around 75c and the frogs bred like mad. There is also the option of one panel sliding horizontally with runners top an bottom and one runner at the side to lock it into place.


Yeah, the lighting thing is my only slight concern, I could potentially get holes drilled cheaply enough but again it's a bit of a faff but that could be a work around to have the lighting inside.


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## fatlad69 (Oct 22, 2009)

ronnyjodes said:


> Yeah, the lighting thing is my only slight concern, I could potentially get holes drilled cheaply enough but again it's a bit of a faff but that could be a work around to have the lighting inside.


I used two blobs of expanding foam covered in ecco earth to rest the tube ends in ( put black silicone on the glass first so it looks better from the outside).I also mounted them at the front to stop the frogs coming into contact with the light and used a reflector to send the light toward the back. 

When you have the glass cut for the front just take the corners off the top edge. Silicone the triangular gaps created and then just push the leads through this way there are no gaps and cheaper than getting holes drilled. You can hide the cables in some black conduit running along the top. You can use the same holes for the temp/humidity cables. Alternatively if your not too bothered by esthetics just push the leads through the top vent. Remember to use the lighting units that are waterproof due to the humidity.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

darrensimps said:


> hi mate, just seen this thread, what about these cheap clear acrylic hinges on ebay
> 
> 5 OR 20 SMALL ACRYLIC HINGES | eBay





fatlad69 said:


> Looks like they do piano hinges as well which would spread the weight of the glass.


You beauties. Do you reckon I could then just attach the hinge with silicone to the door and to the bottom panel. Fingers crossed they'd be strong enough to hold it. The piano hinge might be the best bet like you say to distribute the weight. Cheers guys :2thumb:


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## darrensimps (Aug 16, 2009)

fatlad69 said:


> Looks like they do piano hinges as well which would spread the weight of the glass.


 
when i looked at doing this to a tank, i looked at these hinges, drilling holes in the glass with (again from ebay, i look there 1st for EVERYTHING) a holesaw DIAMOND HOLESAW ALL SIZES hole saw tile ceramic porcelain marble drill dust | eBay

then getting some 5mm acrylic rod http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-CLEAR...317?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d31adc52d and making a small rivet with that, glueing it into the hole in the hinge and then making like a mushroom top typed thing on the glass side by melting it. i never tried it, but thought it mite have worked? 

if that makes sense to u!?


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## darrensimps (Aug 16, 2009)

ronnyjodes said:


> You beauties. Do you reckon I could then just attach the hinge with silicone to the door and to the bottom panel. Fingers crossed they'd be strong enough to hold it. The piano hinge might be the best bet like you say to distribute the weight. Cheers guys :2thumb:


 
silicone.... in my experience doesnt stick so well to acylic/perspex. well the viv i made of it all fell to bits and was binned! haha


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

darrensimps said:


> when i looked at doing this to a tank, i looked at these hinges, drilling holes in the glass with (again from ebay, i look there 1st for EVERYTHING) a holesaw DIAMOND HOLESAW ALL SIZES hole saw tile ceramic porcelain marble drill dust | eBay
> 
> then getting some 5mm acrylic rod 5mm CLEAR Acrylic ROUND Perspex Plastic ROD 305mm Long | eBay and making a small rivet with that, glueing it into the hole in the hinge and then making like a mushroom top typed thing on the glass side by melting it. i never tried it, but thought it mite have worked?
> 
> if that makes sense to u!?


Yeah that makes sense, cheers. It also sounds reasonably doable with my minimal diy skills although drilling glass sounds mildly terrifying haha



darrensimps said:


> silicone.... in my experience doesnt stick so well to acylic/perspex. well the viv i made of it all fell to bits and was binned! haha


Right, maybe scrap that I dea then. If I couldnt go the drilling route can you think of any other adhesives that could work for glueing perspex? Other than that I could use glass instead for the doors and panels and silicone the hell out of it to the hinges


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## darrensimps (Aug 16, 2009)

I think perspex sheets warps with the heat and humidity, I have one perspex door on a viv I made and its like a banana. 

Glass is a doddle to drill, turn the tank on its side and put a ring of blue tack around the hole to drill and fill with water I use a bit of wood with a 'V' cut out so start the hole off... Keep it wet and use the weight of the drill to go through, really easy. But I have done it a hundred times with tiles ect at work.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

darrensimps said:


> I think perspex sheets warps with the heat and humidity, I have one perspex door on a viv I made and its like a banana.
> 
> Glass is a doddle to drill, turn the tank on its side and put a ring of blue tack around the hole to drill and fill with water I use a bit of wood with a 'V' cut out so start the hole off... Keep it wet and use the weight of the drill to go through, really easy. But I have done it a hundred times with tiles ect at work.


Cheers for that, I've never really drilled tiles so it's a bit daunting but I could always have a try on a spare bit first so if I balls it up it's not such a big deal.

Maybe scrap the perspex then. Ambient temp might not be that high but it'll be hotter towards the lighting. Humidity is going to be the biggest pain in the arse I think as far as warping. I suppose a piece of glass isn't going to be massively expensive and all together it's going to work out a lot cheaper than buying a similarly sized Exo.


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## brysaa2 (Oct 11, 2009)

Silicone hinge could work as you said mate, sounds interesting.

How about hinges like this Beveled Edge Glass Bathroom Clip for 8-12mm Thick Glass:AmazonIY & Tools with a neo magnet on the fasting side? That's what I'm thinking at the moment  sure hinge will work with poly carb or plexiglass just as well if not better as weighs less!


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

Just a thought, Ronny, earlier you mentioned a solid part for the bottom part of the front; why not take off one end from the tank? This gives you an open top which you can then build a lid for, complete with vents and light fittings, while the end piece, which you already know fits, can form the solid lower part of the front.

Hmm, I know what I mean, but I'm not sure it comes across too clearly! :lol2:


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Been here done this, kept it simple, top opening: http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/amphibians/610275-next-project.html. lol

It's still going strong too.

Ade


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

Wolfenrook said:


> Been here done this, kept it simple, top opening: http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/amphibians/610275-next-project.html. lol
> 
> It's still going strong too.
> 
> Ade


I'd forgotten all about that thread , Ade! :2thumb:


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Ron Magpie said:


> Just a thought, Ronny, earlier you mentioned a solid part for the bottom part of the front; why not take off one end from the tank? This gives you an open top which you can then build a lid for, complete with vents and light fittings, while the end piece, which you already know fits, can form the solid lower part of the front.
> 
> Hmm, I know what I mean, but I'm not sure it comes across too clearly! :lol2:


Genius Ron. That makes perfect sense :2thumb:



Wolfenrook said:


> Been here done this, kept it simple, top opening: http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/amphibians/610275-next-project.html. lol
> 
> It's still going strong too.
> 
> Ade


I knew you'd done one mate. I'll give it a nosey for some ideas. Not experienced any problems with it then?


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## Heart4Darts (Oct 10, 2009)

Just found this pic and its gave me an idea...
you see where the sliding glass is on the top, do it so that its on the front, but put a fixed piece of glass at the bottom, so that the substrate ect dont fall out when you raise it.
i hope you get what i mean.
and it seems simple enough, glass is just on runners....


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## Heart4Darts (Oct 10, 2009)

You could even do as i said, but have the glass sliding from left to right or right to left.
and just find something to stop it from being opened by mistake.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

ronnyjodes said:


> Genius Ron. That makes perfect sense :2thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> I knew you'd done one mate. I'll give it a nosey for some ideas. Not experienced any problems with it then?


The only problem I've had is with 1 door trying to fall out of the tracks. Normally gravity would hold them in. I solved this though by siliconing strips of plastic onto the doors so they can't go into the bigger track, and hence can't fall out. The only other thing is that it's a 72cm deep tank, so top opening make maintenance a little more difficult.

I also removed the filter running the waterfall. Not because it went wrong, but purely because the waterfall kept the substrate far too wet, a problem I wouldn't have had if I had used insect net under it rather than weed fabric. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. :lol2:

Regarding tipping a tank on it's side, the only thing I will say is you are more likely to find yourself with condensation problems with only a front vent than you are with only a top vent. Also if you decide to use a misting system it means drilling the tank. If you are happy to put holes in the tank though, ventilation is easily sorted, along with holes for nozzles. : victory:

The ultimate conversions I've seen though are where folks have actually removed 1 of the larger panels of glass (front/back) and actually constructed European style tops and doors. When this is done it actually becomes a viv, rather than been a tank been used as a viv. : victory:

Ade


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Thread resurrection time!

So I've spent the last god knows how long trying to come up with a solution but I think I've now got there. I have an 18"x10" aquarium that I'm making a hinged ploycarb door for.

What I'm really excited about doing, hence the post, is an idea that's taken me on a slight tangent. While I was looking for fronts for an aquarium I found a few different options but the one I was most taken with was this.










It's a top that Clearseal make for vivariums. They sell for about 35 quid and I got one on ebay for 99p. Yes, 99p. Being the thrifty gent that I am I see this as a great chance to make another bargain enclosure.

What I'm doing is turning it on it's end with the mesh at the top, the hole at the other end if is blocked off with a plastic stopper but I could potentially use that to empty the drainage layer if needs be. It's 18" tall and 12" wide but seeing as I can't find an aquarium with those dimensions I'm going to go the polycarb route instead.










I'm sure that amazing piece of Microsoft Paint work does my idea justice. I'm going to essentially create an open fronted tall box out of polycarb and silicone that viv top on to it to make a front. It has a sliding door already in place which makes life very, very straightforward. On the roof piece of polycarb I'll be installing another thin vent to reduce condensation.

My question, for those who have done polycarb vivs themselves, is where can I get that plastic right angled edging stuff to hold the walls in place?

Ideas, opinions and pictures of ninjas holding bags of water like they've just played hook-a-duck at a fairground are always welcomed.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

B&Q, Wickes, possibly ebay.

Oh and I'll stop been mean now. I'd already posted this on BAKS, so they've had a head start. lol Anyway, found a company that you can get custom cut sizes of UV passing sun bed acrylic from https://www.plasticstockist.com/Default.aspx. I got a couple of pieces from them to convert an old 45x45x60 Exo for pums from them.

Ade


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

ronnyjodes said:


> Thread resurrection time!
> 
> So I've spent the last god knows how long trying to come up with a solution but I think I've now got there. I have an 18"x10" aquarium that I'm making a hinged ploycarb door for.
> 
> ...


I use these Clearseal lids on three of my tanks- as lids, though! They are a bit limited in terms of lighting options- in all three (corn snake tank, Asian toad tank and cane toad tank) UV/bright lighting is not really an issue, and I find an ordinary halogen desk light, poised clear enough of the glass not to crack it, works fine, and gives enough light for pothos etc to grow. The glass slide could easily be replaced with a sheet of optiwhite, though. As the frame is ali, they could be a bit flimsy used vertically, but if you siliconed them all around the edge, they should be pretty secure.

EDIT: Fresh out of ninja pics, I'm afraid- I'll have to stock up.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Wolfenrook said:


> B&Q, Wickes, possibly ebay.
> 
> Oh and I'll stop been mean now. I'd already posted this on BAKS, so they've had a head start. lol Anyway, found a company that you can get custom cut sizes of UV passing sun bed acrylic from https://www.plasticstockist.com/Default.aspx. I got a couple of pieces from them to convert an old 45x45x60 Exo for pums from them.
> 
> Ade


What is the traditional use for those edging strips, just so I don't look like a vikki_john (A moron. RFUK rhyming slang No.1) asking for the wrong thing lol.

Thanks for that link, just what I was after, not too expensive either. What thickness do you reckon, 3 or 5 mm?

Edit: Would that grade of acrylic be suitable for building entire vivs from or would you still get the warping issues normally associated with acrylic?


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Ron Magpie said:


> I use these Clearseal lids on three of my tanks- as lids, though! They are a bit limited in terms of lighting options- in all three (corn snake tank, Asian toad tank and cane toad tank) UV/bright lighting is not really an issue, and I find an ordinary halogen desk light, poised clear enough of the glass not to crack it, works fine, and gives enough light for pothos etc to grow. The glass slide could easily be replaced with a sheet of optiwhite, though. As the frame is ali, they could be a bit flimsy used vertically, but if you siliconed them all around the edge, they should be pretty secure.
> 
> EDIT: Fresh out of ninja pics, I'm afraid- I'll have to stock up.


I'm hoping the rigidity is helped by the rest of the frame. I was thinking of siliconing a chunk of poly in to support the top and the bottom of the frame. They're not bad for the money are they Ron, really dropped lucky with it so couldn't resist!


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

ronnyjodes said:


> I'm hoping the rigidity is helped by the rest of the frame. I was thinking of siliconing a chunk of poly in to support the top and the bottom of the frame. They're not bad for the money are they Ron, really dropped lucky with it so couldn't resist!


Slipped over the top of the tank, I find them fine- and most of the year, they even keep my 4ft corn suitably confined- the only exception is in Spring, when he's got his rand on, and will push and *push* against the slide until it moves- so I tape it shut for a while, then. For frogs, I can't see this being a problem; if you (as I said) silicon the frame to the tank round the edges, it should be fine.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Ron Magpie said:


> Slipped over the top of the tank, I find them fine- and most of the year, they even keep my 4ft corn suitably confined- the only exception is in Spring, when he's got his rand on, and will push and *push* against the slide until it moves- so I tape it shut for a while, then. For frogs, I can't see this being a problem; if you (as I said) silicon the frame to the tank round the edges, it should be fine.


I think siliconed in as a front it _should_ work perfectly. I was going to start this weekend and buy the twin wall but if that sun bed grade acrylic is suitable for the whole build I'll go down that route as it'll give a much nicer apppearance. Might even get a couple extra pieces to convert my small aquarium. But what to put in it...........


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

ronnyjodes said:


> I think siliconed in as a front it _should_ work perfectly. I was going to start this weekend and buy the twin wall but if that sun bed grade acrylic is suitable for the whole build I'll go down that route as it'll give a much nicer apppearance. Might even get a couple extra pieces to convert my small aquarium. *But what to put in it........... *


Oh, the *eternal* torment of the 'Phib-keeper!


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Ron Magpie said:


> Oh, the *eternal* torment of the 'Phib-keeper!


Well the 18x10x12 aquarium I swapped for some plant cuttings is ITCHING to be used horizontally, finally time to get some reeds maybe


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

20 gallon high vertical conversion kit – Jungle Box

There must be a valid way


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

Just watched this on the tube... if only!!! could knock these up in minutes and they look the dogs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HOcYxT_zSc&feature=related


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Terrarium Supplies said:


> 20 gallon high vertical conversion kit – Jungle Box
> 
> There must be a valid way





Terrarium Supplies said:


> Just watched this on the tube... if only!!! could knock these up and minutes and they look the dogs
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HOcYxT_zSc&feature=related


I'd seen these before and you're right, we could be chucking terrariums out left right and centre for sod all money. I looked in to shipping some of those conversion kits over but it wasn't going to be cheap. The company that made the kit on that video went bust and scammed a load of people out of a load of money :-S


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

Yeah I did notice that their site was down! 

Have you managed to get any further forward with your plans or...?


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

Terrarium Supplies said:


> Just watched this on the tube... if only!!! could knock these up in minutes and they look the dogs
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HOcYxT_zSc&feature=related


I found this hilarious- probably for all the wrong reasons! :lol2:


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Terrarium Supplies said:


> Yeah I did notice that their site was down!
> 
> Have you managed to get any further forward with your plans or...?


Sort of :lol2:. Basically instead of having one aquarium that I was going to build a front for I have two projects on the go. I bought that clearseal lid to be used as an alternative to one of those yank conversion kits but it doesn't quite fit so I'm going to just build a viv for it. I'm going 30x45x45, random, I know haha. That lid is 30x45 so I figured if I'm building it myself just to go for more depth as it'll be beneficial to the frogs and planting in small spaces can be a bit of a bitch. Plus it'll fit on the shelf I've got my other 45 deep tanks on without looking ridiculous :lol2:.

My glass aquarium has had some foam put in and I'm going to try and get some silicone and eco earth on it this morning as I'm on lates at work .I've approached it a bit differently though and have gone semi-backgroundless. There's a mound of foam to the left hand side, like a rocky outcrop, which I've only really put in so I can plant out of it. Obviously the usual photos will be up once I've got a bit further in to it.


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

Nice... can you get some pics up Jon? I'm going to be doing something myself after I found a few bits late last night!


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Nothing that can't be achieved with some glass or UVx acrylic, black plastic angle and some fly proof mesh.

Sadly what this approach doesn't do is trill holes in the top of the aquarium for your misting nozzles, or move air around in a way that helps to keep the doors clear of condensation. The down sides of converting aquariums.

Using a tank with rims however, it should be quite easy to perform a vertical conversion. Just not so easy to get the air flow right without getting down and dirty remove a 'side' panel to cut it and insert a top vent, as well as a vent BELOW the door (rather than above as done with those kits).

Ade


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

ronnyjodes said:


> My glass aquarium has had some foam put in and I'm going to try and get some silicone and eco earth on it this morning as I'm on lates at work .I've approached it a bit differently though and have gone *semi-backgroundless*. There's a mound of foam to the left hand side, like a rocky outcrop, which I've only really put in so I can plant out of it. Obviously the usual photos will be up once I've got a bit further in to it.


Noticed this.... :welcome:

Ade


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Terrarium Supplies said:


> Nice... can you get some pics up Jon? I'm going to be doing something myself after I found a few bits late last night!


I will mate, going to get the school run out of the way, come home, get my gloves on and get cracking before I go to work. I'll try and get some photos up before I leave.



Wolfenrook said:


> Nothing that can't be achieved with some glass or UVx acrylic, black plastic angle and some fly proof mesh.
> 
> Sadly what this approach doesn't do is trill holes in the top of the aquarium for your misting nozzles, or move air around in a way that helps to keep the doors clear of condensation. The down sides of converting aquariums.
> 
> ...


This is what I've been debating since out chat about the pums Ade. I've gone terrestrial with the aquarium, that way I can just build a mesh top which should give enough airflow. I'll be looking at different species for this tank and then using the one I'm building for darts :2thumb:. It's a compromise but one that I think that needed to be made.

The clearseal front is being used arborealy and the walls of the tank will be UVx acrylic or twin wall polycarb and although they'll do much the same job I'm leaning more towards the UVx for aesthetic reasons. I don't think I'm going to be able to get any below the door vents in though, just the one above the door and then one on top of the tank that I'll cut in to the acrylic/polycarb. That should create _some_ airflow, just not as much as I'd like but should at least cut down a bit on condensation than just having the one front vent.


Wolfenrook said:


> Noticed this.... :welcome:
> 
> Ade


Go on Ade, you knew you were right all along about backgrounds  lol.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

If you are putting a vent in the top of the tank, you don't need a vent above the doors, as they'd be filling the same purpose. Better to move the doors up and put a vent below them. That way, with a bit of luck, you might get air to move up across the doors and then out the top. lol

Eek! Don't use the word right when talking about backgrounds, you'll get me into trouble with the "must have a background" folks. :Na_Na_Na_Na: What I have learned though is that a) backgrounds are a part of the decor and b) there is no right and wrong when it comes to decor, just concepts and needs to be met however you go about this. My leuc viv, and yes I know I go on about it, but it DOES have a background, and I don't mean the film on the outside of the tank here. I mean the plants forming pretty much a solid wall up the back of the tank now.

When I went 'backgroundless' I was actually trying to bring into use a concept from planted aquarium keeping, that concept been a background made up of plants. Letting your plants and 'hardscape' take center stage, rather than foam, glue or whatever. It's not to everybodies tastes, wouldn't be right if it was, but if you can bring yourself to like it, which you clearly have, then it's well worth trying. :2thumb: Traditional planted aquarium approaches, they talk about background, midground and forground plants, along with hardscape, and it's this that I have tried to use. : victory:

I reckon your vivs are going to look great.


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

This is my concept


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

Stripped back design and parts needed


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

If you go with a single door for a conversion, it will be a lot simpler to do and make sure it's fly proof.

Ade


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

Wolfenrook said:


> If you go with a single door for a conversion, it will be a lot simpler to do and make sure it's fly proof.
> 
> Ade


Ade, what would be the best route for the plastic framing?


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

I was thinking about that myself bud. Seems you have 2 things you could try:-

1) Plastic L profile
or maybe
2) Square acrylic profile 6mm x 6mm Clear Acrylic SQUARE Profile (Qty: 4 x 1m) Plastic Perspex Bar | eBay.

Ade


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

Wolfenrook said:


> I was thinking about that myself bud. Seems you have 2 things you could try:-
> 
> 1) Plastic L profile
> or maybe
> ...


Hey good find!

To keep costs down, 5mm x 5mm?

5mm x 5mm Clear Acrylic SQUARE Profile (Qty: 4 x 1m) Plastic Perspex Bar | eBay

1) cut profiles to required size to make the skeleton frame
2) silicone the frame to aquarium and allow time to set (24hrs)
3) silicone fly screen to upper and lower air flow
4) silicone runner to upper, lower and side viewing point
5) slide in pre-cut glass doors

lets go for this!


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## fatlad69 (Oct 22, 2009)

When I have time I fancy building a polycarbonate viv like the ones in this link.
Constructing a Polycarbonate Vivarium


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Well my plans went tits up. My awesome foam structure has now been ruined by some dodgy silicone that the eco earth didn't stick to. I'm half tempted just to rip the whole lot out and start again. How easy is expanding foam to get off glass................


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

ronnyjodes said:


> Well my plans went tits up. My awesome foam structure has now been ruined by some dodgy silicone that the eco earth didn't stick to. I'm half tempted just to rip the whole lot out and start again. How easy is expanding foam to get off glass................


I removed some foam from the sides and back of a small viv with a glass scraper Jon. Makes life so much easier : victory: got one from a pound shop in Meadowhall.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Thank god for that. Luckily I've got one of those scrapers so I know what I'll be doing when I get in from work :lol2:. It's just really wound me up though as in the half a dozen or so tanks I've done perfectly with this method this is the first to go completely wrong. I did the silicone and eco earth combo in the morning and then basically left it all day, came home from work and started brushing off the excess and tons of the stuff came off leaving white foam blotches everywhere. My two options would be to pick of all the silicone and start again or to rip the lot out- I'm going for option b lol. To be fair this aquarium didn't cost meanything as I swapped it for a couple of plant cuttings and a water bowl so if I trash it it's not the end of the world but I still want it looking as good as my other tanks. Now the foam has gone pear shaped I can go back to the drawing board and maybe go the direction you are with a vertical conversion. I'm still not 100% how I'd do the door though. I'll have to have a bit of a play about over the weekend.


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

Nothing ventured nothing gained lol!

I'm dropping the aquarium idea... got something planed that I have never done before. Just rounding up all the materials then I begin my new journey on here. This time making sure that I save all pics and files on my Mac and not my mashed up hard drive.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Foams basically the same stuff as gorilla glue, which is very very easy to get off glass once you have an edge to work from. Last time I did it it just peeled straight off in big sheets, left the glass spotless. 

A tip for silicone, use the brown and something with more to it than eco earth, eg. fine orchid bark that you can push into the silicone. Gives a much better finish and if a bit falls off it just looks brown.  I had to touch up in my Punta Clara viv:-

Before










You can see I had started touching up on the left in that, and the bare bits on the back.

After










All filled in with brown silicone and orchid bark.

Ade

Ade


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Wolfenrook said:


> Foams basically the same stuff as gorilla glue, which is very very easy to get off glass once you have an edge to work from. Last time I did it it just peeled straight off in big sheets, left the glass spotless.
> 
> A tip for silicone, use the brown and something with more to it than eco earth, eg. fine orchid bark that you can push into the silicone. Gives a much better finish and if a bit falls off it just looks brown.  I had to touch up in my Punta Clara viv:-
> 
> ...


Nice :2thumb:. I was all out of black and brown and used what I had left which was white instead of being patient haha. I'd crumbled bits of moss in to the mix for the first time as a bit of an experiment so that may have had something to do with it not sticking. I'll give it another crack


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## vukic (Apr 9, 2010)

Awesome idea... I have a shed full of old tanks that I'm not using... Think I have a load of small ones in.the attic too.. Lol.. 

Sent from my LT18i using Tapatalk 2


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

So I gutted all the foam from the aquarium in a frustrated rage. I started taking some of the silicone off the glass but I was getting too wound up so I did this tihis to a 30x30x45 exo instead. These were the bits I had laying around in my bits cupboard, going to throw some more plants in there,encourage the creepers to cover the background and sides and try some different moss growth techniques over the panels. I'm going for a Florida woodland theme so ferns and foliage over broms. It's currently home to loads of springs, dwarf tropical woods and giant orange woods ready for when it's new inhabitant shows up............


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## fatlad69 (Oct 22, 2009)

Looks good, Ade has already showed us that less is sometimes more!


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## Terrarium Supplies (May 12, 2012)

Whats going in it Jon?


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

fatlad69 said:


> Looks good, Ade has already showed us that less is sometimes more!


Cheers buddy. That's what I'm thinking. I do think something is missing form the top so I'm going to try and coax ficus up it as those panels look a bit empty to me. I think maybe a nice mini Boston fern to the left, maybe a different species to the right, bit of moss growth and then leave it at that.



Terrarium Supplies said:


> Whats going in it Jon?


As traitorous as it sounds to this section I'm going to grow on a rough green snake in it. They're generally WC, the one I'm getting will be LTC but they're still notoriously finickity feeders which is why I'm going for as close to it's natural environment as possible and starting in a fairly small space- they're insectivores so this way I can monitor feeding a bit better until I'm confident to move it up to something larger. I'm being really anal with this one and have been looking at photos of Floridian woodland and researching local plants, something I'd not really do for CB animals. It's been an interesting process but ultimately it's proving impossible to acquire some of their local plant life in this country so I'm aiming to go as similar as possible. I'll get there in the end :2thumb:.


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

ronnyjodes said:


> As traitorous as it sounds to this section I'm going to grow on a rough green snake in it. They're generally WC, the one I'm getting will be LTC but they're still notoriously finickity feeders which is why I'm going for as close to it's natural environment as possible and starting in a fairly small space- they're insectivores so this way I can monitor feeding a bit better until I'm confident to move it up to something larger. I'm being really anal with this one and have been looking at photos of Floridian woodland and researching local plants, something I'd not really do for CB animals. It's been an interesting process but ultimately it's proving impossible to acquire some of their local plant life in this country so I'm aiming to go as similar as possible. I'll get there in the end :2thumb:.


Fascinating snakes, and as you say, notoriously fimickity, and stress-prone. I doubt many of them have Botany degrees, though, so so long as the plants 'look' right, the actual species shouldn't matter too much.


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Ron Magpie said:


> Fascinating snakes, and as you say, notoriously fimickity, and stress-prone. I doubt many of them have Botany degrees, though, so so long as the plants 'look' right, the actual species shouldn't matter too much.


Admittedly I did want to try some more obscure plant species but I can't source them. It was good doing the research though so I can get the overall "feel" right but at the end of the day it's not going to bother the snake that much but it would have done if I lobbed a load of broms and orchids in there haha


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

I get a bit bored with the standard brom tanks, to be honest- they are perfect for darts, but they are a bit generic. I try to theme my tanks a bit- the corns' is 'dry-ish temperate woodland'-style, whilst the Asian spiny toads are in 'tropical Asian forest floor'- complete with a thick layer of bamboo leaves over the substrate .:lol2:


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

I do like brom tanks, so they might be a bit overdone but it's a formula that is popular because it works. I try and do the same thing and put a bit of the tanks inhabitants natural habitat in there although my whites are the exception to this unless they live on some sort of paradise island somewhere lol


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

Hehe- I even have a Buddha statue half-submerged and with rapidly-growing moss in my *oriental* fire-bellied toad tank- anything to make them feel at home...


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## ronnyjodes (Apr 29, 2011)

Ron Magpie said:


> Hehe- I even have a Buddha statue half-submerged and with rapidly-growing moss in my *oriental* fire-bellied toad tank- anything to make them feel at home...


 Fill it with chopsticks and spring rolls


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