# Raised Pond - Advice on brickwork?



## simonas

I've just flagged my patio and dug a hole for a ppond which is only 84" by 80". Its limited by a man hole which has got in the way. I've dug down about 18 inches and intend to build about 362 in brickwork

Due to the limited size I need to balance wall strength and safety with having not too thick walls tha will reduce capacity of pond greatly.

I've seen solid breeze blocks in B&Q which way a fair bit and was wondering if one course would be enough. I will do a concrete footing first and build up and use a liner that will be held down by top stonesthat will rim the wall. My plan is too render the breeze block after and paint white to neaten it up.

No idea what to do about filtration though!! lol


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## htf666

The reason ponds have a thick wall is usually to stand freezing in the winter rather than the pressure of the water. The best and strongest method is to use 18 x 9 x 9 hollow concrete blocks with rebar shoved down the holes and filled with concrete.Harry


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## AshMashMash

Completely agree with the above poster. This is my above ground pond:










Basically breeze blocks built up. Concrete base was made (maybe 4" thick?), and it was built on top of that. Then, liner is put in, filled with water, and _then_ the top layer is put on the liner to hold it in place... importantly, done after the water is added!

For filtration, on mine I have a pump sat near the front of the pond as you look at it. Then, this is connected to hose pipe, going up the back there as you can see, into a hole in the shed, and into two filters (one with a UV in and biological media, another with just bio media). The water then returns out of the second filter, via hose pipe (DIY ftw!) and back into the pond.


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## elrond

are you fibreing glassing or using a liner, strongly advice a bottom drain setup, if using liner round the corners out on the brickwork on the inside, so instead of a 90 angle , it very slightly curved.

Aaron


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## simonas

htf666 said:


> The reason ponds have a thick wall is usually to stand freezing in the winter rather than the pressure of the water. The best and strongest method is to use 18 x 9 x 9 hollow concrete blocks with rebar shoved down the holes and filled with concrete.Harry


Cheers Harry

Isthat 18x9x9 inch block. What is Rebar and do you lay the blocks liuke you would bricks overlapping/


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## simonas

elrond said:


> are you fibreing glassing or using a liner, strongly advice a bottom drain setup, if using liner round the corners out on the brickwork on the inside, so instead of a 90 angle , it very slightly curved.
> 
> Aaron


I'm using a liner when I've done brickwork which I hope to start next weekend if I can get footings done this week


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## simonas

elrond said:


> are you fibreing glassing or using a liner, strongly advice a bottom drain setup, if using liner round the corners out on the brickwork on the inside, so instead of a 90 angle , it very slightly curved.
> 
> Aaron


I'm using a liner when I've done brickwork which I hope to start next weekend if I get footings done this week

Its flagegd all round the hole for pond so bottom drain out of question really. cheers Aaron


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## simonas

AshMashMash said:


> Completely agree with the above poster. This is my above ground pond:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically breeze blocks built up. Concrete base was made (maybe 4" thick?), and it was built on top of that. Then, liner is put in, filled with water, and _then_ the top layer is put on the liner to hold it in place... importantly, done after the water is added!
> 
> For filtration, on mine I have a pump sat near the front of the pond as you look at it. Then, this is connected to hose pipe, going up the back there as you can see, into a hole in the shed, and into two filters (one with a UV in and biological media, another with just bio media). The water then returns out of the second filter, via hose pipe (DIY ftw!) and back into the pond.


Ash cheers for that as that is exactly what I wanted to see, someone who has done what I want to do. Mines going to be square though but looks from your pic to be a similar size. what size and type of block did you use and how may rows of block.how deep is yours wit hthe water in ? and what is the capacity?

cheers: victory:

lovely pond just made me want to get mine done quickly now!!


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## AshMashMash

simonas said:


> Ash cheers for that as that is exactly what I wanted to see, someone who has done what I want to do. Mines going to be square though but looks from your pic to be a similar size. what size and type of block did you use and how may rows of block.how deep is yours wit hthe water in ? and what is the capacity?
> 
> cheers: victory:
> 
> lovely pond just made me want to get mine done quickly now!!


No worries 

That pond has internal dimensions of (if I remember rightly...):

Radius: 1.85m
Depth: 0.7m (ish), and so has a volume of about 1800 litres or so. 

At the time we built that pond we were doing a house extension, and so had alsorts of blocks and things lying around. Those are some nicely patterned heavy blocks... to make it look nice without doing anything extra. So I am not sure exactly what type. There is no internal support (rods) or anything... just blocks and mortar. 

Just one row thick of blocks it is. The pond was dug slightly into the ground... just slightly, so that it was easier to get the concrete base in.


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## simonas

Thats what I have done, dug down about 12-16 inches and once I pick which block will dig a trench all round for concrete footing. Once first level of block down I'll chuck a load of grit sand I have spare to cushion liner

Is your pond very well filtered with two pumps and filters? a lot of questions I know but also how many fish do you have in there?

cheers Simon


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## AshMashMash

simonas said:


> Thats what I have done, dug down about 12-16 inches and once I pick which block will dig a trench all round for concrete footing. Once first level of block down I'll chuck a load of grit sand I have spare to cushion liner


Sounds like a plan  I put some sand down, on top of old carpet I believe... 



simonas said:


> Is your pond very well filtered with two pumps and filters? a lot of questions I know but also how many fish do you have in there?
> 
> cheers Simon


Not really. Its perfectly adequately filtered, but its not OTT. The two filters are these:



















A simple box style, and are more enclosed one with a UV light. 

I currently have about 50 fish in there :blush: due to breeding. All ranging from about 3cm to 5" or so. But, water quality is good, and they are all happy and healthy... I am slowly getting rid of them to friends and family and things.


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## Esfa

hey Simon, how are your snakeheads getting on? they still all just sitting in their places?


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## simonas

AshMashMash said:


> Sounds like a plan
> 
> _I hope so lol_.
> 
> I currently have about 50 fish in there :blush: due to breeding. All ranging from about 3cm to 5" or so. But, water quality is good, and they are all happy and healthy... I am slowly getting rid of them to friends and family and things.


how far away from me are you? lol


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## simonas

Esfa said:


> hey Simon, how are your snakeheads getting on? they still all just sitting in their places?


just going to check on them now. They are in my sons tank and hes going to bed in a bit so I'll have a nose. I hope they do ok cos I think tehy are great. you had some bad luck with your fish I see!! sorry to hear about that. did you get some snake heads?


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## Esfa

simonas said:


> just going to check on them now. They are in my sons tank and hes going to bed in a bit so I'll have a nose. I hope they do ok cos I think tehy are great. you had some bad luck with your fish I see!! sorry to hear about that. did you get some snake heads?


yeah had a little accident  

nah, that question was for someone else, i've got absolutely no room for any more fish


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## AshMashMash

simonas said:


> how far away from me are you? lol


Haha, if you can make it to peterborough sometime, you're welcome to as many as you like!


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## htf666

simonas said:


> Cheers Harry
> 
> Isthat 18x9x9 inch block. What is Rebar and do you lay the blocks liuke you would bricks overlapping/


Yes 18 x 9 x 9 inches with two holes in them so you can lift them. Rebar is usually about 1/2 inch bar which has a slight pattern on it to grip the cement. You lay them just like bricks but 'cos they are so big they are easier to keep level as long as you start off level.If you are using a liner you can find an old carpet or two and line it first with them to protect the liner.Harry


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## simonas

htf666 said:


> Yes 18 x 9 x 9 inches with two holes in them so you can lift them. Rebar is usually about 1/2 inch bar which has a slight pattern on it to grip the cement. You lay them just like bricks but 'cos they are so big they are easier to keep level as long as you start off level.If you are using a liner you can find an old carpet or two and line it first with them to protect the liner.Harry


I've got a couple of old carpet ends which I have down in the garage which I will use

cheers for that. I shall pop to B&Q tomorrow and check out some Rebar!!

Just started digging a bit more as I want it deeper and I have created a monster . Gone a further spade length which is going to be loads more rubble. Probably a weeks more prep after work. Can't wait till the block starts getting laid and I ca see it comeing together


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## Fishman1908

If you do not want to see any liner or pleats like in the picture, then go an extra course higher to where your liner is going to lay and G4 that course of brick work with a polyurethane sealant as this will allow you to take the water above the liner so it cannot be seen. Then place your overhanging coping stone on that. 

Also place a couple of pieces of 20/25mm pipe in between the last course of brick so you can always pull cables through and they act secondary as an overflow.

I have installed and serviced ponds for more than 25 years both domestically and commercially and although their are some really nice pond structures out their, my pet hate is looking at anything with up to a foot of a liner above the waterline.

If you use carpet (which will rot in time) your liner is not guaranteed.


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## simonas

Fishman1908 said:


> If you do not want to see any liner or pleats like in the picture, then go an extra course higher to where your liner is going to lay and G4 that course of brick work with a polyurethane sealant as this will allow you to take the water above the liner so it cannot be seen. Then place your overhanging coping stone on that.
> 
> Also place a couple of pieces of 20/25mm pipe in between the last course of brick so you can always pull cables through and they act secondary as an overflow.
> 
> I have installed and serviced ponds for more than 25 years both domestically and commercially and although their are some really nice pond structures out their, my pet hate is looking at anything with up to a foot of a liner above the waterline.
> 
> If you use carpet (which will rot in time) your liner is not guaranteed.


fantastic

cheers for that. Just looked at G4. Would I just G4 straight onto the block and that would suffice? I'm still digging as I decided to go another spade length deeper. It doesn't half produce a lot of waste earth, plus its like clay as a result of the rain!! That will be completed tomorrow night or Friday as I'm doing it after work. Concrete footings at weekend and then order the block. Can't wait now.

I will definately do the pipe in the block as a very good idea.

Do you think one course of big solid breeze block would suffice?

Pity your all the way doen in Coventry? Fancy a holiday by the seaside in Birkenhead?!!lol


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## Fishman1908

simonas said:


> fantastic
> 
> cheers for that. Just looked at G4. Would I just G4 straight onto the block and that would suffice? I'm still digging as I decided to go another spade length deeper. It doesn't half produce a lot of waste earth, plus its like clay as a result of the rain!! That will be completed tomorrow night or Friday as I'm doing it after work. Concrete footings at weekend and then order the block. Can't wait now.
> 
> I will definately do the pipe in the block as a very good idea.
> 
> Do you think one course of big solid breeze block would suffice?
> 
> Pity your all the way doen in Coventry? Fancy a holiday by the seaside in Birkenhead?!!lol


I would only take the block-work up to where the liner finishes and then screed it level at the top so the liner is not lying on anything rough. Then use any porous facing brick so the G4 can absorb and create the polyurethane seal. This gives you a nice look on the outside and something to work with on the inside as the blocks are lumpy and rough.

2 inches of building sand on th bottom so its nice and spongy which is great for the future when cleaning.

Always think of the future maintenance and what if's and then you should be OK.

Feel free to ask me anything.

Robin


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## simonas

cheers Robyn
I didn;t do any digging last night!!! It was raining and I'm knackered!!! I'll get it done this weekend and then onto next stage. Cannot wait till that first course of block is down


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## simonas

yay my blocks are being laid now. 4 courses hopefully today so I can measure up properly and get the liner tomorrow before I do anothercourse on to of the liner. Its a slow process but I will get there


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## simonas

this was the hole a couple of weeks ago before I started digging deeper!!!


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## simonas

these were taken this week when I finished concrete footings


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## simonas

going to buy the liner today

does anyone have tips on completing it

I'll fit liner and lip it round top of the block in the picture .I'll then lay top course of block but will that need to be done straight away?


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## Fishman1908

Lay the liner over the dig and fill with water allowing the liner to slowly sink into the dig and work yourself around pleating as it sinks further into the dig.

When almost full and your happy with the pleats and you have no area's that need smoothing out, secure the top loosely with bricks and cover to not allow any rain to get between the liner and the outside walls and leave to settle overnight.

When completely happy fold the liner over the course of brick and score and secure, even screw down with a thin batten if needed. When complete add another course of brick and G4 that course with the sealant as this will allow you to fill above the course below hiding the pleats completely.

Place some small diameter pipes in the last course under the copings for cable and overflow.

Good luck.
Robin


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## simonas

Fishman1908 said:


> Lay the liner over the dig and fill with water allowing the liner to slowly sink into the dig and work yourself around pleating as it sinks further into the dig.
> 
> When almost full and your happy with the pleats and you have no area's that need smoothing out, secure the top loosely with bricks and cover to not allow any rain to get between the liner and the outside walls and leave to settle overnight.
> 
> When completely happy fold the liner over the course of brick and score and secure, even screw down with a thin batten if needed. When complete add another course of brick and G4 that course with the sealant as this will allow you to fill above the course below hiding the pleats completely.
> 
> Place some small diameter pipes in the last course under the copings for cable and overflow.
> 
> Good luck.
> Robin


I'm so glad your on this board! 
Cheers Robin
I'm going to build the wooden and strong mesh cover before I fill as having nerves about my daughter messing by it if uncovered. I'm not fussed about how ugly it is for now as its only for the daytime and until she's another year older. she's still a bit renegade!!! 

cheers


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