# Crested Gecko Temp?



## Xilas (Jul 1, 2015)

HI guys, i am new here and just got my first 8 week old gecko at the weekend and the shop where i got him said *they thrive between 25-29 C*

But after looking at various articles online they say 18.5-25C and judging by today my therm says 27.8C should i be worried? (i put an ice block on top of his viv covered in a towel so if he needed to cool he could...) 

Thank you


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## GavinMc (Jan 9, 2013)

What you ideally want is a good thermal gradient with a hot/basking spot with a surface temperature around 30C, a warm section with an air temperature of around 27C and a cool section no higher than, around, 24C but preferably cooler. This will allow your gecko to find an area it is comfortable in and will allow it to thermoregulate. 

So to answer your other question, yes, 28C is too high. Whether it will be fatal or not is arguable but it really does need a cooler section. There is currently some discussion going on in the 'Lizard' section regarding this dilemma( how to cool a vivarium ).

Also in future it would be a good idea to research the needs of the animal before purchase.



Gavin.


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## melgallagher (Sep 7, 2011)

*temps*

I agree with Gavin - a good gradient during the day with a basking spot around 30C and temps graduating downwards to low 20sC. At night either a lower range gradient from mid 20s down to 18-20C or room temperature. There's a lot of panic about heatwaves and temps above 28C being fatal and whilst there is some truth in that if a crestie is forced to endure temps above 28C 24 hours for example, a small area of the viv above that o for very short times should be fine. The basic principle is that the crestie needs to be able to self-regulate it's internal temperature as it needs to by positioning itself where it needs to be at that time. Even on a hot day it's unlikely a viv will go above 28C all over - usually the floor is cooler fr example. The biggest issue with a warmer viv is the humidity but a misting once or twice a day is usually sufficient. 

Our understanding of the requirements of cresties is improving all the time and whilst it takes a long time for new and improved methods to perculoate throughout the community it can be terribly confusing for new keepers when they hear and read lots of different stories on the best way to keep them :/ Never trust what a pet store tells you tbh - asking on here is the best method.

I would also urge you to consider providing a 10% UVB if not already - again thats another thing that still many say isn't a requirement - and even though a crestie can be healthy without it the risks of health issues are much greater. Providing a UVB for 12 hours a day also enables them to self-regulate their D3 stores themselves - and requires no D3 as a supplement then. Check the food you offer doesn't contain D3 then (repashy does I believe whereas Pangea complete doesn't). I provide the thermogradient using the heat from the UVB and a small heat strip placed at the top of the viv so it's heat combines with that of the UVB to provide the 30C area. Both are turned off at night as my room temps are still 22C-26C at night in summer. A ceramic heat bulb is better ideally instead of a heat mat / heat strip however. Both should be controlled by a thermostat.


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