# New Corn Snake Setup - Newbi help



## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

*New Corn Snake Setup - Newbie help*

Evening All.

I hope someone can help me, we are looking at buying a corn snake and I am just in the process of setting up the Viv. The Viv is 52 x 16 x 22. I have a 40w bulb in the hot end (just testing temps at the moment so no bulb cage yet) but I'm having problems with temps, at the cool end even with no heat It is still 25. 

With the heat lamp on the hot end is 33.5 and the cool end is 27.5. I have two fans on top of the Viv, (2 x 60mm 1 at the cool end blowing in, and the one at the hot end sucking out)

I don't have a substraight in yet. Can anyone give me any advice? I guess this is far too hot?

Cheers in advance.


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## Hannah81 (Nov 19, 2008)

33C is too hot for a corn, it should not be over 30C really. Do you have a thermostat to control the temperature the bulb gets to? Cos you need one for any heat source. 
Put a thermostat on it and turn it up til the temp reads 28C on the floor under the bulb. 
The cold side will be room temp so if it's 25C without heating then this is the temp of your house, so you'll have to either turn your central heating down or move the viv to a cooler area/room.

The fans shouldn't be needed.

Substrate wise, aspen, hemp or beech chips are good choices for corns or you could simply use newspapaer or kitchen roll.


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## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

I have turned the lamp down on a normal dimmer at the moment. I don't know how I am going to cool it down. I can't move the tank, nowhere else to put it. Cant turn the heating down the other half and children will cry!

Is 25 to warm for the cool side? That is ambient air temp and not the temp inside the hide. (Waiting for the hide and water dish to arrive)

Aspen is the substraight of choice, will that make much difference to the temp?


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## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

so after a few alterations , the air temp inside the hide on the cool side is 24.1 and the air temp at ground level directly under the lamp is 29.9

Is the cool side still too warm? I haven't added the water yet, but I don't suppose that will make much difference if any. I intend putting in a feeding shelf. What do you think?

What do you think of my progress so far?


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

How old is the corn? If it's a young one I'd put it in a smaller setup to start with, they can be nervous of big open spaces when they're little, you can still use your big viv but put a smaller one inside, one of the cheap plastic ones is fine.


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## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

We have two options, one is 4 years old and looks lovely, the other is a hatchling but still lovely. We have two toddlers and want them to be able to handle the snake (which ever one we go for.)

Still not sure which one we are going to get.

What do you think of the tank setup so far?

just out of curiosity, why are there three numbers in peoples signature e.g. 0.0.1


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

The numbers are Male.Female.Unsexed


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## Hannah81 (Nov 19, 2008)

Looks ok but you will need a few hides as well and plastic plants are good for making hiding places and wrapping round branches for decor.
As long as the hot spot temp stays below 30C it should be ok.

A hatchling would be better in a smaller tub like a faunarium for a while first as they're so small it could escape a larger viv as well as get a little lost.

You really need a proper thermostat as this controls the temperature of the viv better. The probe on it goes inside the viv under the heat bulb in order to control it to the level you set it at.

I wouldn't put a hide directly under the lamp but off to one side as this is for the snake to hide away from the hot spot but still be a warm hide.


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## Jack W (Feb 9, 2009)

As already stated a thermostat is essential, as other wise e temperature may change as the bulb heats up or if it potentially malfunctions. It will also make life easier for you as you won't need to monitor the temperatures so much.

If you want a corn for that viv, I would go for the older one as a hatchling will find it daunting, which could result in it being less willing to feed, and other problems.


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## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

ok so I'm going to order a dimming stat this week, still a little worried about the cool end, i'm thinking holes in the top to allow heat to escape with some 60mm fan grills.

One more quick question, has anyone used camouflage net for the back of the vivarium? From what I can see it looks like it would provide a good hiding place.

I am also thinking of putting a shelf at the cool end of the vivarium for feeding, which I was going to put a hide under, and maybe some 32mm drain pipe to allow the snake to hide, and to climb on the shelf as well as using one of the logs that go across the tank.

Is this ok?


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## emmilllyyy (Oct 9, 2010)

I would avoid the net, as they could get tangled. Id also stick a guard on that bulb : victory:

Pipes, bark and foliage are great, the more the better. It will make the snake feel more secure


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## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

I was going to collect some waste water pipe (about 32mm Stuff) and some gutter and make a few hides out of those, maybe have one piece go from one side of the viv to the other.

I know i need a guard on the bulb just trying to get temps correct at the moment, i'm going to stick a few more vents in the cool end to see if that helps any.

Rather than having a seperate feeding tank, i saw somewhere that they "tap trained" their corn, i think this is fantastic, but i am also thinking that i could put a sizable shelf in and have a non substrated area for feeding? anyone used/made a split level viv before?

Sorry to keep going on with the questions, but would a dimable Recessed Halogen be better suited than an incandescent?

My theory is that an recessed halogen will have some of its heat on the outside of the viv, with only a portition of it directed straigt down. has anyone used this method? obviously this will still be used with a Dimming Stat.

Cheers.

Karl


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## Hannah81 (Nov 19, 2008)

Tap training has nothing to do with feeding. 
Tap training is used for large or snappy snakes to prevent or avoid you as the keeper getting bitten or worse. It's basically conditioning the snake into a certain response when you want to handle it or go in the viv. The response would be to calm down, not to expect a feed.

There should be 2 vents in a viv, a low one at the cool side and a higher one at the warm side.

A shelf is a good idea and corns will use any climbing material they're given, don't expect him to eat on it though. You can feed him on there every time and he'll associate that with a feeding area but he will drag the prey round the viv if he so wishes before eating it.
I feed on a piece of card.

There are plenty of split level vivs. I have shelves in all my carpet vivs.

I'm not sure if halogens are dimmable? 
A spot bulb on a thermostat should be fine.


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## TamaraWittering (Mar 2, 2011)

You said you have the option of a 4 year old snake or a hatchling and you want kids to be able to hold it?
My advice would be go for the adult snake, we use our adult corns when letting people handle them as hatchlings generally move too quickly and tend to be more nippy. Make sure you handle the adult before buying anyway to make sure it has a nice temperment.
Are you buying privatly or from a reptile shop? Do you know about checking for health issues?


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## grannykins (Oct 9, 2006)

I wouldnt make any more holes in the viv - I would wait to set up the thermostat when it comes, and you will probably find that the cool end will sort itself out then. Dont go by the dial on the thermostat, adjust it till you get the right reading on your thermometer and go by that. If you are going to use piping as a hide, be aware that it can be very difficult to dislodge a snake from inside a pipe for handling etc. I have used pond pipe as hatchling hides, but cut the pipe in half lengthways so they couldnt wedge themselves in there. Are your measurements of the viv in inches or in cms?
I too would go for the older snake if you want young children to be able to handle it. Hatchlings can be very quick moving, easily dropped, and vulnerable if a young child tries to hold on a little too tightly.


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

TamaraWittering said:


> You said you have the option of a 4 year old snake or a hatchling and you want kids to be able to hold it?
> My advice would be go for the adult snake, we use our adult corns when letting people handle them as hatchlings generally move too quickly and tend to be more nippy. Make sure you handle the adult before buying anyway to make sure it has a nice temperment.
> Are you buying privatly or from a reptile shop? Do you know about checking for health issues?


 
I agree with this, go for the older one, definitely. I had 12 hatchlings, a one-year old and a 17 year old, the hatchlings are very sweet and cute but the novelty soon wears off for children, they are flighty and don't do well being held by small hands. The one year old is the snakie of choice for my 7-year old, she adores him, helps me clean him and holds him regularly : victory:


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## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

Dimming Stat has now been ordered, the list of items required is slowly getting smaller but very slowly, still need plants, a background and a couple of hides. Speaking of background, does anyone have any suggestions of how to cover the back wall? i.e. paint, hardboard, furniture board etc? i asume it would be ok to paint the wall with emulsion? Then attach fake vegitation to it?

It would seem the general consenus is to go for the 4 year old, so i'll take a look at him/her the next time i am the shop. we would be buying the snake from a local pet shop, small and independant, however we brought our beardie from there, and he is fantastic, they spent alot of time talking to us about his requirements and seem to know what they are talking about. - I dont know what i am looking for to check the snakes health though.

The measuements of the Viv are in inches. Incidentially, some halogen bulbs are dimable and some are not) i have decided to go for the recessed ligthing not just for a little more heat disipation, but also because it is a little easier on the eyes when looking at the tank, especially as the viv is at head hight.

Progress pictures, what is are the opinions so far? the cave at the cool end is broken and will be replaced. as you can see the heat is beaming down onto a raised platform with shade nderneath, where should i take the temperature measurement from at the hot side?

Thanks for all your advice so far.


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## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

So I got everything sorted on the vivarium and got the dimming stat in. I left it for a couple of days and the temps levelled out as follows:

Hot end: 29.7 - 30.3
Enclosure: average 26.5
Cool end: 22.1 - 24.2

So we collected our corn on Friday.

Thanks for everyone's help. What is everyones opinion on the finished viv?



















And this is Cornelios.


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## violentchopper (Jun 20, 2008)

I'm just wondering how your heating this at night time.


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## TamaraWittering (Mar 2, 2011)

karldonteljameswoods said:


> So I got everything sorted on the vivarium and got the dimming stat in. I left it for a couple of days and the temps levelled out as follows:
> 
> Hot end: 29.7 - 30.3
> Enclosure: average 26.5
> ...


Do you have a heat mat in there too? As with the above post, you need something to heat the viv at night 

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## karldonteljameswoods (Mar 23, 2012)

No I am not heating the viv at night, as one breeder, and two pet shops I spoke to said the night time temperatures would be ok as they are about 24 on the warm side, 23 in the hide and 22 at the cool end. I also read that corns like it to mimic the natural light and temperature cycles too. This was also backed up by some research I done on t'internet. I was told that as long as the temperatures do not drop below 73f (22-23) at night it is fine. is this wrong?


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## violentchopper (Jun 20, 2008)

karldonteljameswoods said:


> No I am not heating the viv at night, as one breeder, and two pet shops I spoke to said the night time temperatures would be ok as they are about 24 on the warm side, 23 in the hide and 22 at the cool end. I also read that corns like it to mimic the natural light and temperature cycles too. This was also backed up by some research I done on t'internet. I was told that as long as the temperatures do not drop below 73f (22-23) at night it is fine. is this wrong?


Ok that's cool. If I did that, I think I would use a heat mat for 2 nights after it fed. Just to be cautious. Good to see your doing your research on these. Well done.


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## Hannah81 (Nov 19, 2008)

> I dont know what i am looking for to check the snakes health though.


It's quite easy. Handle the snake, make sure it's scales are clean and bright, that there is no retained shed, that the animal moves around easily and grips you easily, no stiffness or jerky moves. Look at it's head, check the eyes nose and mouth are clean and free from and mucus or debris. Check there's no swelling sound it's head or face which could indicate illness. Check the end of it's tail is ok and the tail grips well. 

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