# 10x 33L RUB Rack Build



## Kaouthia (Sep 30, 2010)

So, while I've got some glue drying on the rack, I thought I'd make a start on a thread for this for you guys to see.

I regret I did not take more images as I was cutting and constructing, but quite honestly I didn't think anybody would be all that interested. But since mentioning it on another thread, and the wife telling a few people about it, I've been getting bugged for photos. So, here goes. 

We're currently in the process of completely gutting and refurbishing the entire house (we've lived here for a year already, but things just seem to be coming along a bit slow), but this rack will be spending its life in the living room. So, I wanted this to eventually look somewhat more like furniture than just something functional but randomly cobbled together. The way it's built, it would be pretty easy for me to make up a custom fascia to put on the front of this once we ultimately decide how this room's going to be decorated.

So, anyway, the construction of the rack is pretty much completed. The only thing that was waiting to be done was the electrics as we were waiting for heatpads and thermostats to come (thanks Blue Lizard!). Those arrived today, so time to press on.

Each row is split up into two columns. So there are two thermostats. One controls the 5 tubs on the left, the other controls the 5 tubs on the right.

First job was to figure out how to attach these to the rack in a way that we could keep all the wires neat. Off came the moulded plug and the socket into which the heatpad normally plugs, and all three cables were fed through holes drilled directly below where we would mount the thermostat. Then simple PVA glue was used to stick the stat to the back above the top.










A clamp was loosely fitted simply to hold it in place while the glue dried while I got to work on attaching the electrics. Here's the back view of the same piece of wood with the wires coming through cut to length and stripped.










And a better view of the wires screwed together.










There's one at the other side too, which is where the other thermostat controlling the other 5 heatpads will go. You can also see here how we neatened up all the cables going from each of the heatpads into the junction boxes.










On the back of each shelf, near each heat pad's power cable a hole was drilled. The plug was removed from the heatpad, and the power cable was fed through this hole in order to help reduce any strain that was made on the heatpad itself where it connects to the cable. This was then pulled straight to the center column where it was cable tied to the wire coming from its neighbouring heatpad, and then fed upwards.










Once all of the cables were cable tied to each other, they were then tied to the rear center support column.










This is how that chunk of cable started off with just the two heatpads on the bottom shelf. The center support's base also acts as another foot to help ensure each shelf stays level and doesn't bow or dip with the weight of the tubs, water bowls, hides & inhabitants.










A slightly better view of the back of the heatpad, and the cable going through the shelf.










Each shelf was fixed to the sides with a piece of 2x1 running the entire length from the front to the back. The shelf was screwed down onto the 2x1, then the side panel of the rack was screwed into the wide side of the 2x1 - using a spacer I'd pre-cut to give the required height between each shelf.

The shelves were numbered to keep them in order because of the way I'd cut out the notch for the front and rear center supports. I'd basically clamped all 5 shelves together and just ran the circular saw across the ends to notch out what I needed. Keeping the shelves in the same order as they were clamped together just helped to ensure everything lined up properly.










Each shelf was numbered due to the way they were cut. When cutting the holes for the front and rear center columns, all 5 shelves were clamped together to form a thick solid chunk of wood, and the center column slots were cut away with a circular saw.

Numbering them and putting them in the rack in the same order they were clamped together just helped to ensure that everything lined up perfectly.

The view of the shelves from the front.










Here you can see the radiator reflector stuck down to the shelf with gaffer tape along the front, back and sides. The heatpads were stuck to the reflector with gaffer tape too (proper gaffer tape, from a theatrical chandler & stage supply company - not the cheap crap they sell in the pound shop)

The radiator reflector was about 6 quid for a roll from B&Q (50cm x 5m), and the single roll was (just) enough to cover all 5 shelves (we have about 8 inches of the roll spare).

The center support running vertically from the floor to the top on the front and back were each screwed into a piece of 2x2 that runs under the middle of each shelf. Just a single 2" screw holds these in place at the front and back.










The glue has dried, and the electrics are all wired up, and here's the left side thermostat being tested.










LED came on and all heat pads got warm, success!

The rear view once all the cables were cut, tidied up and set in place. The thermostat comes with a moulded plug on the end of the power cable that you can't remove. So, I just used one of the plugs that came with the heat pads.










The same setup was done on the right with the electrics to feed the other 5 tubs.










On came the LED, 5 minutes later the heatpads were toasty. Another success!










I designed it so that the top of the rack could be a bit functional. So, it has a back and sides. Right now it's just the thermostats on there, eventually I'll attach the towel rail holder, and somewhere to store forceps, small hooks, etc. It's just a handy height for working in the tubs, cleaning them out, feeding, weighing them, etc.










And here's the entire rack. At the moment, only the top two are 33L RUBs. The rest are generic 32L tubs from the local Wilkinson's, but they'll all eventually get replaced.










So, that's it pretty much done. It's functional, it's rock solid and weighs a ton. 

Boas in the top 2, corns in the 6 below those, and nobody in the bottom two at the moment.

Eventually I'll make up a fascia for it, so it fits in more with the decor this room will eventually have, and I'll probably cover the top with some kind of vinyl flooring and seal the edges with silicon to give it a bit more durability.


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## Brierley (Oct 4, 2009)

Quality build mate, really good job : victory:


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## swift_wraith (Jan 4, 2009)

looks real nice, only problem I forsee is what happens if one of the mats fails? Will be a bugger to replace it.


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## Kaouthia (Sep 30, 2010)

Thanks guys.

I thought about the issue of replacing a mat that fails, but in the end, I decided that no matter how I did it, it was going to be big pain in the arse anyway, moving the rack out to get behind it, pull up the old mat, put in a new one, so figured the extra hassle was worth it.

The big problem is all the cable ties. Cutting and redoing all that lot certainly will be a pain, so I'm looking into possibly switching those out with velcro straps or something when the time comes - similar to how they're doing now inside a lot of PCs to adjust the wiring for better airflow.


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## Chromisca (Sep 28, 2010)

Chet and the gang say thank you!! :flrt:

:2thumb:


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## Shaunieboy (Aug 14, 2010)

Nice build Mate I'm looking to make something Like this once my snake are abit bigger


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## kellogg (Aug 15, 2010)

:gasp: i want one!


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## Kaouthia (Sep 30, 2010)

Thanks guys.

Currently working on designing the cages & hatchling racks that will ultimately line an entire wall of my office.


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## Superdryyy (Aug 27, 2010)

really decent job there pal  
looks awsome


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## Lozza.Bella (Apr 24, 2010)

that is so what I need for my leos, and I love your little work station at the top!


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## CSJ10 (Jun 7, 2010)

Really nice build. On the issue of replacing mats, you could always just cut the wire off the offending mat and connect the new one with a terminal block or something similar rather than cutting all the cable ties. 


Kaouthia said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> I thought about the issue of replacing a mat that fails, but in the end, I decided that no matter how I did it, it was going to be big pain in the arse anyway, moving the rack out to get behind it, pull up the old mat, put in a new one, so figured the extra hassle was worth it.
> 
> The big problem is all the cable ties. Cutting and redoing all that lot certainly will be a pain, so I'm looking into possibly switching those out with velcro straps or something when the time comes - similar to how they're doing now inside a lot of PCs to adjust the wiring for better airflow.


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## Kaouthia (Sep 30, 2010)

CSJ10 said:


> Really nice build. On the issue of replacing mats, you could always just cut the wire off the offending mat and connect the new one with a terminal block or something similar rather than cutting all the cable ties.


That's not a bad idea. Now I think about it, I do seem to remember some kind of inline socket I saw available once. Will have to do some digging and see if I can find those. 

Edit : Found one. Wonder if these would do the job. They're apparently designed for lawnmowers, so I don't think a little heat mat would stress it all that much.

http://www.anchorsupplies.com/electcomps.htm

They're a fair way down the page, titled "In Line 2 Pin mains Cable Connector". Will have to stock up on a few of those just to be safe.


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## CSJ10 (Jun 7, 2010)

Those connectors are quite chunky. If you have a look on ebay you should find some smaller ones like:Clicky its rated 14A so would need to check the amp rating on mats but I think most are less.


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## Kaouthia (Sep 30, 2010)

Yeah, the mats are only 0.5 amp.

Those molex connectors should do the job nicely though, thanks for that!


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