# Converting a unit for Vivarium



## Buzz L1ghtbeer (Jan 5, 2009)

I have attached a photo off my unit that I am planning on converting to a Vivarium for my beardie, can anyone see any issues with using this unit and all suggestions welcome on what i can do with also before i start as not done it before. Thanks


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## paul_manchester (Dec 30, 2008)

i cant see anything personally pal, that should be pretty straight forward


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## lola (Dec 11, 2007)

That looks really good - what's the measurements?? Should be a fairly easy conversion - you'll want to take out the horizontal shelf and the vertical divider, but if that weakens the strength of the unit and causes the top to sag then you might have to put another piece of wood back in in the middle as a prop. You'll need vents at the back - about 1 per foot  then just put the electrics in, decorate it and there ya go!!


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## Buzz L1ghtbeer (Jan 5, 2009)

the unit is about 4ft x 2ft and the unit is solid. I reckon without the shelf and divider it would still be solid without sagging. I could put a rail that spans across the top as support.


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## Buzz L1ghtbeer (Jan 5, 2009)

While I remember, the backboard will need to be replaced as there are holes in it for cabling but they are nit where i want them, would a piece of MDf surfice to use or should I use something slightly thinner?


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## lola (Dec 11, 2007)

If you've got the MDF it'll be fine but otherwise thinner ply would be fine, easier to work with and much lighter  

Or use the existing backboard, covering up the existing holes with whatever background you may be planning to put in....


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## joff (Dec 30, 2008)

I would use mdf for the back mate, 6mm should do, or if you use 9mm that would help to make it stronger once you have removed the centre divide. I used 9mm on my wardrobe conversion. One thing I would suggest is take it apart and put a bead of silicone along the joints and re-assemble it, helps keep the heat in.:2thumb:


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## joff (Dec 30, 2008)

or ply:lol2:


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## joff (Dec 30, 2008)

Thinking about it though, without that centre devide after time and the heat there is a chance it could sag, not sure what temps you need for a beardie though. If it does sag it will start to pinch the glass.
Another option is you could cut the centre out of the centre divide leaving about 10 mm all the way round, or 10mm just up the back, top and front and do away with the bottom if you no what I mean, would still give it abit more strenght:2thumb:


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## joff (Dec 30, 2008)

lola said:


> If you've got the MDF it'll be fine but otherwise thinner ply would be fine, easier to work with and much lighter
> 
> Or use the existing backboard, covering up the existing holes with whatever background you may be planning to put in....


 
Sorry to disagree:blush::blush: but mdf is easier to work with, shapes easier, sands easier, doesn't splinter, keeps it's shape more, looks better when painted. . again sorry to disagree but I'm a carpenter I work with the stuff all day, ply and mdf. Handy andy off changing rooms used to use it for everything:lol2::lol2:


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

Buzz L1ghtbeer said:


> I have attached a photo off my unit that I am planning on converting to a Vivarium for my beardie, can anyone see any issues with using this unit and all suggestions welcome on what i can do with also before i start as not done it before. Thanks


sorry mate but you've confused me..
its not a tv unit converting to a vivarium... its a viv that somebody's converted to a tv cabinet... lol

personally though, i wouldn't bother replacing the back piece. I'd just use the holes for additional vents if possible or just patch them up and put a wall paper on the inside so you can't see the patching. Will save you some hassle and money.


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## Lotus Nut (Jan 7, 2008)

Leave the back board as it is as its probably same colour as unit - cut some ply or mdf 9mm - 15mm and fit this to rear of backboard though it depends on what recess you have behind it but this will give additional strength unit and top.
I would cut a strip off center partition about 50mm wide leaving it at front as it is now to give support especially if placing items on top of it.

One problem you may have is the lack of bottom plinth though this depends on what substrate your using, if sand you will get loads of it in runners so would fit a small strip of glass behind doors.


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## lola (Dec 11, 2007)

joff said:


> Sorry to disagree:blush::blush: but mdf is easier to work with, shapes easier, sands easier, doesn't splinter, keeps it's shape more, looks better when painted. . again sorry to disagree but I'm a carpenter I work with the stuff all day, ply and mdf. Handy andy off changing rooms used to use it for everything:lol2::lol2:


URKKK :2wallbang:... yes it's me - my little brain's a bit confuzzed these days - I know I read MDF and I said MDF BUT I meant MFC :lol2: which can be a flippin' nuisance, MDF is much easier than MFC but I think will need sealing if inside the viv   and I have picked up a bit about it coz I'm a kitchen planner :Na_Na_Na_Na:!!!


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## Buzz L1ghtbeer (Jan 5, 2009)

Thanks for your feedback guys, at first I will just be using kitchen towel as substrate as I will be putting a baby in there. After that I plan to use tiles or something along those lines. Once I convert it to a Viv I will not be placing anything on top as I am going to purchase a new TV unit. 
Regarding the backboard, I like the idea of just patching up the holes some how. The only problem with the holes as there are right at the bottom on the unit and right at the top for cabling each section of the unit.


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

top - UV starter ends and then patch up the holes.
bottom - vents

you only need to do a half arsed job at patching them up because you can put a background over the back to fully cover it.


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## Buzz L1ghtbeer (Jan 5, 2009)

I have posted a quick photo so you can see the inside of the unit so you know what I mean about the holes


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

top one is perfect for the UV starter caps, bottom one is a bit tricker but still workable.. bit of patching up and some background paper.


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## Buzz L1ghtbeer (Jan 5, 2009)

The only other thing that i need to do is patch up the holes in the glass.


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

the end 2 you could try and find handles to fit, middle one, possibly a small round vent?


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## joff (Dec 30, 2008)

lola said:


> URKKK :2wallbang:... yes it's me - my little brain's a bit confuzzed these days - I know I read MDF and I said MDF BUT I meant MFC :lol2: which can be a flippin' nuisance, MDF is much easier than MFC but I think will need sealing if inside the viv   and I have picked up a bit about it coz I'm a kitchen planner :Na_Na_Na_Na:!!!


:lol2: not a lot to pick up with mdf, it's great stuff:2thumb:

Yes mdf would need sealing with a pva water mix.
So your a kitchen planner eh! I know your sort:devil: :lol2:


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## lil_jo84 (Sep 6, 2008)

Sorry to be cheeky but where did you get the cabinet?

Would make a great viv and I need one asap lol


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

joff said:


> :lol2: not a lot to pick up with mdf, it's great stuff:2thumb:
> 
> Yes mdf would need sealing with a pva water mix.
> So your a kitchen planner eh! I know your sort:devil: :lol2:


 
but that one will probably make your units with MDF instead of MFC :whistling2:


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## joff (Dec 30, 2008)

Meko said:


> but that one will probably make your units with MDF instead of MFC :whistling2:


as long as it isn't kfc, easy mistake, :blush::blush::whistling2:




I'm just being stupid now aint I:lol2::lol2: I'll get me coat:blush:


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## Buzz L1ghtbeer (Jan 5, 2009)

I'm not sure where the unit originates from as I bought it second hand when I first moved into my flat. I wouldn't even like to guess where it's from. Sorry


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## lil_jo84 (Sep 6, 2008)

Buzz L1ghtbeer said:


> I'm not sure where the unit originates from as I bought it second hand when I first moved into my flat. I wouldn't even like to guess where it's from. Sorry


Oh OK guess i'll be keeping an eye out in some second hand shops fae now on lol


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## plugger (Feb 4, 2008)

The unit originally came from ikea, I bought one for a tenner off ebay complete with the glass lock thats built in. They are quite well built and the centre upright was a pain to get out but well worth it then I replaced the back with hardboard. I made a stand for it out of an old bed frame I had stuck in the attic. More details in this thread: http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/habitat/94005-setting-up-beardie-newbie.html


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## pudsli52 (Jan 13, 2009)

*cab conversion*

hi buzz.
as an ex wood machinist, i would rip ot the hardboard back and put on a new one.
this would take care of the holes that are there now.
take out all the shelves, so you are left with a rectangular box.
measure internal size, and get 2 pieces 80mm x intenal size of m.f.c.
screw or mod block which ever you want.
go to b&q and buy 20mm blind grommets, drill 20mm holes in the back for your thermostat probe and other wires.
buy your runners for the glass, i use 6mm runners and 4.4mm laminated glass.
seal all round with aquarium sealer, if you are putting tiles on the bottom, tile and grout, then seal.
hope this has been of some help.
all the best pudsli.


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

pudsli52 said:


> hi buzz.
> as an ex wood machinist, i would rip ot the hardboard back and put on a new one.
> this would take care of the holes that are there now.
> take out all the shelves, so you are left with a rectangular box.
> ...


i don't want to point out the obvious but aren't you making the job more complicated? 
the most obvious part of the cabinet is that it already has glass and runners, he just needs to fill in the holes in the backing


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## Tommy123 (Sep 19, 2008)

Hey looks brill! What you gonna put in it?


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## pudsli52 (Jan 13, 2009)

hi.
yeah sorry about that , got a bit carried away.
yeah just replace the back then.
all the best pudsli.


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## bhoy67 (Aug 26, 2008)

i would put a top runner or plate to stop it sagging it will if the tv stays there then fix the glas runners to the plate and id put one on the bottom 2 look at my home made viv youll c what i mean


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## Buzz L1ghtbeer (Jan 5, 2009)

Thanks for the response folks. I am going to remove to backing board completely and fit a new one without those big holes. The unit will not be used as a tv stand once it is complete and I am also building a stand for it to sit on. I will be getting a new tv unit to replace this unit. This unit is very solid so I don't think I will be needing an extra runner at the top to support it. The only issue I still have is the glass doors which have holes in them which iaint sure how to block up. I was thing of just trying to put in some rubber gromets to cover them up.


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