# Help!! Habistat pulse proportional thermostat not working!! - Pygmy Hedgehog



## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

So not long ago I had an issue where my heat lamp wouldn't emit heat right, it was scolding hot to the touch however when I put my hand lower down I couldn't feel the heat coming off it, which I usually can. I bought a new bulb and it seemed to work fine, its only been a few weeks and it has happened again. The habistat pulse proportional thermostat says the temp is about 25/26 degrees, however I know my room isn't that hot (I live in the uk and the weather isn't great) I'm not sure what the issue is and would appreciate any help! It is for a pygmy hedgehog, the bulb is ceramic and is 100w. I'm wondering if it's the heat lamp or the bulb. I'm worried about my lil guy as if he gets too cold he can attempt hibernation, the last time his heat stopped working he became poorly and I really don't want that to happen again. Please help!!!!


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## **louise** (Nov 10, 2010)

Have you actually checked the hot spot and ambient temperature using an appropriate thermometer? You sound like your just guessing by touch.

You need a a temp gun the check the hot spot temp directly under the lamp and you'll need a digital probe thermometer to check the warm and cool side ambient air temps. Never go by the temperature control on the actual thermostat as they can be quite inaccurate and will also depend on where you've put the thermostat probe. Measure the temp directly under them lamp and adjust the thermostat accordingly.

For example I have a dimmer stat set to 31c but the actual hot spot temp is 35c. (which is what I want for my leopard gecko).


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

I haven't, I've ordered one off amazon just waiting for it to arrive. The viv is definitely not heating properly, it's very cold in my room and the viv is ice cold as well there is no way its 26degrees. My hedgie is also showing signs of hibernation which is what happened last time.


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

Assuming the fuse in the mains plug is fine, to check a thermostat is functioning use a normal lamp and plug this in to the thermostat's output. Place something cold over the probe (ice cube for example), the lamp should light constantly. Then place something hot on the probe (glass or cup of hot water for example). The lamp should start to pulse on and off and then go out all together. This would confirm the thermostat is fine and the issue is with the heater. If you are not getting any output when placing an ice cube on the probe then the problem could be the fuse. Habbistat pulse and dimmer stats have a quick blow fuse fitted to the small black circular holder. These can be obtained form Swell and other outlets for around £7 for a pack of 10. Do not try and replace them with a normal 3A fuse that are fitted to a standard plug.

If the thermostat check out then the issue is the heater. If the heater feels hot when you place your handan inch or two underneath it (don't ever touch a ceramic when its running - you'll get a nasty burn) but the substrate below feels cold then it could be that the wattage of the heater needs increasing or that the distance between the heater and the hot spot needs reducing. Often it's easier to move the basking spot than to lower the heater. Also as mentioned, its best to set and monitor the temperatures using an IR temperature gun. Touching the substrate or hot spot isn't ideal, especially as our body temperature is higher. My hands are 35-36c at the moment, so a 30-32c substrate will feel cold to the touch. Use the IR gun to set the basking temperature, don't go by the dial settings, they are just a guide.

I keep Royals and a boa, in wooden vivs, and I'm in the UK (which given the flag on your icon so are you). A 100w ultraslim White Python ceramic heats and maintains 34c a 120cm x 38cm x 45cm vivarium. My boa's viv (approx 72" x 21" x 21") is kept at 33c -34c using a 150w trough ceramic, so your 100w ceramic should be fine... unless the enclosure is an all glass tank which won't hold the heat. If that is the case, either replace it for one made from wood, or look at insulating the outside of the glass enclosure using 1" thick insulation board form B&Q on the sides and back. Also if its a mesh screen on top, then covering as much as you can with a board will prevent the heat escaping.


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

Thank you.. so I just tested this, when putting hot water under the censor/probe the light pulsed on and off then switched off however when putting an ice cube under it the lamp flashed on and off rapidly. I'm not sure if I just didn't hot it there for long enough or if I needed to use maybe a bowl of ice cubes. I tried to attach a video of it but it wouldn't let me.

As for the ceramic bulb (which I think is the issue) my breeder told me when I first got my hog that a 100w ceramic bulb would be fine, it worked for nearly two years and then stopped. I have messaged her time after time for help on things but she ignores me unfortunately I think she just breeds for the money and has no interest in helping me. I bought this new one and its only been a month and is now doing the same thing. I use a prorep 100w ceramic bulb off amazon. If there are any others you could suggest I would be grateful. I can't afford to keep spending £20 every time a bulb gives up and my hedgehog could attempt hibernation if not kept at the right temperature, last time this happened he got poorly and it cost me hundreds for scans and things when all I needed was a new heat source and some antibiotics, again wanting money as he is classed as an "exotic", luckily I have money to spend on him but times are tough now with the pandemic so I would prefer to try anything before it ends up costing me a fortune. 

When I place my hand an inch or two under the bulb it is extremely hot but moving my hand lower down it feels cold. I tried to unscrew the bulb last night and screw it back in and when I did I got a faint smell of burning which also makes me think it is the bulb. Last time this happened I got a new bulb and it fixed itself however I did wonder if I had the probe in the right place. I read the information about the habistat pulse proportional thermostat but couldn't understand where to put it at the moment it is in the middle top of the viv about his wheel, his lamp is on the far left and his bed is on the right. 

Having looked closely at the ceramic bulb after taking it out I have noticed what looked like some brown liquid that has now solidified, the same on the other bulb. When I was unscrewing the bulb part of the bulb holder actually starting untwisting so I'm wondering if there could be an issue with that? E.g. making the bulbs blow or something. 
I use the prorep ceramic lamp holder with bracket off amazon.

As for the viv it is all wooden with two sliding glass panels at the front. 
I have a thermometer arriving soon to see the temperature of my room. As for the temperature gun can you recommend a reliable and reasonably priced one I could find anywhere? (yes I am from the UK) So any shop names or anything I can go to. 


You seem to be the first person that has helped me test the thermostat so thank you so much for that, I hope what I have written makes sense and that you might be able to help me, any help is appreciated!


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

It sounds like the stat is working fine. I've been running through ceramics for decades, but the problem is getting hold of suitable guards for them as the guy that used to make them and supply the retailers has now retired. The only commercial "reptile" products I've used when it came to heating are white python slimline ceramics from Swell Reptiles I've had these in my latest unit and they have been running for 12 months now without any issue. The base of the heater is 30cm above the substrate and that averages 33c underneath. The air temp is also kept at a decent level as well


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

IR Temperature gun...Amazon


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

Thank you! I got in touch with the makers of prorep and she told me that it sounded like it was the actual holder for the lamp that had stopped working. I nipped to pets at home and got another holder and its getting warm and just says on the thermostat that its up to temperature, yet again very hot to the touch but not emitting the heat 
The temperate reader i bought came with two and are both showing different temperatures. I really don't know what the issue is.


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

If the ceramic is getting hot then it's not the holder. These holders are ES fittings, so you have a large area for one side of the mains feed (the screw thread - N) and a central "pad" that provides the contact for the other feed (L). If the Ceramic is getting hot then the holder is fine and the element is working.

I can't see how the viv is so cold if the heater is on and functioning. Our house is old and bad at retaining heat, in mid winter when its a few degrees below freezing it often gets down to 18c in the small hours when the heating has been off for a few hours, but the heaters in my vivs still manage to maintain the environments in the vivs. The surface temperatures these elements get to are often 200c so for christ sake be careful near them....The only conclusion I can come to is that the thermometer you are using is wrong or faulty. I would wait until you order and receive an IR temperature gun and see what the surface readings are with that. For checking the ambient air temperature and humidity I use this - I've checked it against AM2302 digital sensors and it's within 0.5c so has an accuracy that is useable for reptile needs.

If after following these recommendations you still have issues then you may need to look at replacing the heater with a different brand and possibly a mushroom shape rather than conical... It may be that for a given wattage the brand you have is very inefficient.


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

I ordered a new ceramic bulb that I haven't used before and that is arriving today so will try it. The woman from the company told me it was the holder so I went and bought a new one incase, we installed it and again the bulb gets red hot but doesn't emit any heat. I'm thinking it has to be the thermostat, I know I can send it off to get fixed but I need heat in the meantime so I really don't know what to do, unless I buy a new one and then just take it back after I have sent this one off. I know I can change the fuse but knowing me I will break it.

Is that thermometer you use to go inside the viv?


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

megjran said:


> I ordered a new ceramic bulb that I haven't used before and that is arriving today so will try it. The woman from the company told me it was the holder so I went and bought a new one incase, we installed it and again the bulb gets red hot but doesn't emit any heat. I'm thinking it has to be the thermostat, I know I can send it off to get fixed but I need heat in the meantime so I really don't know what to do, unless I buy a new one and then just take it back after I have sent this one off. I know I can change the fuse but knowing me I will break it.
> 
> Is that thermometer you use to go inside the viv?


I've been messing with electronics for 40 years, and have designed my own pulse proportional thermostats that currently run the bank of vivariums in the lounge, with another running a snake hatchling rack and a third a second bank of vivs in the back bedroom, so I feel somewhat qualified to say that in my opinion that woman is talking bullsh1t - If a holder was faulty no current would reach the element and it would remain stone cold !!

The fact you plugged a normal lamp in the thermostat output and got it to turn on and off using hot or cold items on the probe means the thermostat is working. The fact the heater gets red hot suggests the thermostat is powering the heater. The fact that the heater is getting RED hot and you claim doesn't emit ANY heat I find hard to believe.


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

With the ice cubes it was rapidly switching on and off, could it possibly be the censor? I'm very confused as to why the light for the heat on the thermostat is turning off, usually it is always pulsing on and off but my room is now apparently 27 degrees on my thermometers it says 22. 
The viv feels freezing cold on the inside and my hog is starting to feel the effects of it. I have now put a lot of extra fleece in there for him. He is a lot less active which means something is definitely wrong with the heat. the bulb is hot but not spreading round the viv like usual.


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## Shellsfeathers&fur (Jan 18, 2009)

Can you post some pictures of the vivarium and equipment in case that is of any help?


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

Yes no problem, the photos aren’t great but you get the jist.. 
The holder in the viv is the new one, however in both holders the lamps look wonky which I’ve never noticed before so could that maybe be what’s causing the issue?


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

When something cold is placed on the sensor the thermostat should rapidly change the pulse duration each time it flashes until the light remains on constantly. With something like an ice cube or a bag of frozen peas that should happen quickly in one to three cycles. Placing something hot like a hot cup of tea against the probe straight afterwards, the light that is constant should start pulsing, the duration of the pulse getting shorter and shorter until it stops flashing all together. If the thermostat doesn't do this then it would appear to be faulty. But I thought that you had already proved this out ?

What you can do as a test, and only do so whilst in attendance, is remove the animal from the vivarium, and place him somewhere warm. Unplug the heater from the thermostat and plug it straight into the mains. Close the viv for a few minutes and then open it and see if you notice the heat. If it hits you as you slide open the glass then you know the heater is capable of providing an adequate level of heat. Naturally unplug the heater straight away to prevent any fires.

One other possible cause, the placement of the probe. It seem high in the enclosure. Moving it down and further away from the heater will mean that it reads a cooler region of the enclosure, thus the stat will drive the heater harder, in order to maintain the temperature at the probe. It may be worth trying this first before messing about with ice cubes and plugging heaters directly to mains.

Other than that I'm at a loss...


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

I tried again with the hot water and ice cubes, I first used the ice cubes and it flickered rapidly but didn't stay on constantly. Then I put the hot water under the probe and that worked perfectly however then the lamp turned off. I placed the ice underneath again and it wouldn't come back on until I had actually turned the lamps switch off and on again. 
I have ordered a new thermostat that is arriving tomorrow to see if it is that, I also have the IR temperature gun coming and some spare fuses for the thermostat. 
I have turned the heat up on the thermostat to test if it would project, I turned it up by quite a few degrees yet still feels cold/the same temp as before.
I again rang the company and told them my new bulb had been in for almost two hours WITH a brand new holder that she told me to get, she told me to ring back in half an hour to see if it had heated up. So I rang back and told her and asked her what to do about this issue she basically told me that she couldn't help me and to email the people I bought it off to get it sent back (amazon). With her working at the company she was bloody useless.

I did think about plugging it straight into the mains. I have moved the probe up, down and everywhere but its making no 
difference so I'm sure it has to be the thermostat that's broken, if the ice cube test isn't working properly then surly...

Are the bulbs okay? As I said in the photos comment I have never really noticed them being on an angle when screwed in, I thought they would of had to be straight but I have untwisted it time and time again and it just won't go in straight. 
They have always been in straight so not sure if just both the holders are weird. I'll add a photo on here of inside the "old" prorep bulb holder, as I'm not too sure to see if it's faulty or not, you might have a better idea/knowledge than me. As I've never had an issue with these things I don't know what to look out for or how to fix things. 

In the first photo as you can see there is a white chalky like dust, again I'm not sure if that is normal or not. Also the inisde of it looks a little twisted.


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

megjran said:


> I tried again with the hot water and ice cubes, I first used the ice cubes and it flickered rapidly but didn't stay on constantly.


If it continued to pulse even when the ice cube was placed directly on the probe then that isn't right



megjran said:


> Then I put the hot water under the probe and that worked perfectly however then the lamp turned off.


It's meant to go out. As the probe is reading a temperature that is hotter than the set point less power is applied and eventually if the differential is large enough the output is zero



megjran said:


> I placed the ice underneath again and it wouldn't come back on until I had actually turned the lamps switch off and on again.


This would suggest that the thermostat is indeed the suspect.



megjran said:


> I have ordered a new thermostat that is arriving tomorrow to see if it is that, I also have the IR temperature gun coming and some spare fuses for the thermostat.


I think that should do the job. The chances of two thermostats having the same issue should be slim



megjran said:


> I have turned the heat up on the thermostat to test if it would project, I turned it up by quite a few degrees yet still feels cold/the same temp as before.


if the thermostat still flickers when it registered the temperature is far below the set point and is not applying full power then it won't heat the element up to its full capability



megjran said:


> I again rang the company and told them my new bulb had been in for almost two hours WITH a brand new holder that she told me to get, she told me to ring back in half an hour to see if it had heated up. So I rang back and told her and asked her what to do about this issue she basically told me that she couldn't help me and to email the people I bought it off to get it sent back (amazon). With her working at the company she was bloody useless.


If she was representing the manufacture then she was correct. The "contract" you have is with the retailer you purchased the item from, not the wholesaler or manufacturer. So in this case contacting Amazon for a refund on a faulty item is the way forward



megjran said:


> I did think about plugging it straight into the mains. I have moved the probe up, down and everywhere but its making no
> difference so I'm sure it has to be the thermostat that's broken, if the ice cube test isn't working properly then surly...


I agree. It does sound that the thermostat is at fault... I mean you have replaced the holder and heaters so there is nothing else left but the thermostat



megjran said:


> Are the bulbs okay? As I said in the photos comment I have never really noticed them being on an angle when screwed in, I thought they would of had to be straight but I have untwisted it time and time again and it just won't go in straight.
> They have always been in straight so not sure if just both the holders are weird. I'll add a photo on here of inside the "old" prorep bulb holder, as I'm not too sure to see if it's faulty or not, you might have a better idea/knowledge than me. As I've never had an issue with these things I don't know what to look out for or how to fix things.
> 
> In the first photo as you can see there is a white chalky like dust, again I'm not sure if that is normal or not. Also the inisde of it looks a little twisted.


They look fine - so long as they hold the heater and make contact with the connectors then don't worry too much. The white dust is just the ceramic dust where it was screwed together.


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

Okay, thank you! The thermostat is arriving today so I will put a post up to hopefully (all fingers crossed) to say it's working.


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

Do just got the new thermostat.. i tested it with the lamp and again the heat is fine but with the ice it rapidly flickers and now the bulb isn’t even getting warm at all and I’ve tried it in both holders.. 
I don’t know what’s wrong


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

So you have a new thermostat but its still doesn't drive the ceramic heater(s) ??

What make / model of thermostat is it?


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## megjran (Mar 17, 2021)

It’s the Habistat pulse proportional thermostat. I’ve had my room hot as it wasn’t working so needed to keep my hedgehog warm as possible. I just unplugged everything and adjusted it round and left the probe out in my room where it’s cool and the lamp started to heat up. 
I took the temperature inside of the viv with the new IR temperature gun and it says it’s around 21-22 degrees in the viv however I set it to be around 26
I’ve unplugged the lamp again and I’m going to let it get cooler in the viv and then try again :/


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

megjran said:


> It’s the Habistat pulse proportional thermostat. I’ve had my room hot as it wasn’t working so needed to keep my hedgehog warm as possible. I just unplugged everything and adjusted it round and left the probe out in my room where it’s cool and the lamp started to heat up.
> I took the temperature inside of the viv with the new IR temperature gun and it says it’s around 21-22 degrees in the viv however I set it to be around 26
> I’ve unplugged the lamp again and I’m going to let it get cooler in the viv and then try again :/


Don't go by the digits on the dial of the thermostat - that's just an approximation. Habistat pulse proportional stats are rated at 600w so well capable at driving a 100w ceramic heater.

I have no idea - you've tried two new heaters, two holders and now a new thermostat so have no idea. If you place the probe at the cool end of the viv away form the heater and then plug in the thermostat and turn the dial up full so the light is on constant with the heater plugged in (and with the hedgehog out of the viv for now) does the spot below the heater reach the ideal temperature given time ?

The only other possible cause could be that the heaters are not powerful enough - and using a higher wattage (150 - 300w) is needed. But I have 100w slimline ceramics in my roylas viv and that easily maintains 32-35c without issue... so can see the need for upping the wattage of heater, but it's the only thing that hasn't been tried.


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## **louise** (Nov 10, 2010)

Malc said:


> Don't go by the digits on the dial of the thermostat - that's just an approximation.


I mentioned this in my reply at the very beginning.

Has the op turned the stat up full yet to see if the Viv actually gets warmer.


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## Malc (Oct 27, 2009)

**louise** said:


> Has the op turned the stat up full yet to see if the Viv actually gets warmer.


Hopefully we'll soon hear back from them...


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