# Im worried about my bearded dragon not eating



## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Its been about 12 days he just slowly went off his food eating 1 or 2 crickets or 1 or 2 locusts a day and now the past 4 days he wont eat anything at all.

i gave him a bath yesterday and he did a massive poop. and for about 20 mins after that he was a bit lively.
so i though ahh ok so he was bunged up?? but today he still hasnt eaten.

he turns down everything i try, locust,crickets,eathworms,even meal worms as a last resort.

veg i try rocket, carrot,cress but still hes not intrested in anything i present to him, i even tried feeding in a seperate rub box but he just wants to get out and ignores whats in there.

ok so hes my setup

hes 4 and half month old.

basking surface is 108f (42c) (bulb to surface is about 6.5 inches) basking spot to ground is (8 inches but it has a rope bridge down to the ground)

he very rarely comes of the basking platform, hes just up there from dawn till dusk unless i get him out.

cold side is about 80-85F (29.4c)

uvb bulb is a 10.0 exo terra tube (20w) (distance from basking 9 inches) max range allowed 19 inch effective distance according to the box)

light and heat go on at 8am go off at 8pm


i hear as a emergency you can try feed him baby food with a seringe is this true? if so what kind?


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## Kamike (Aug 3, 2009)

Nothing to disimilar to my set up, although your basking spot is warmer than mine (I have mine at 95). Is the spot bulb on a stat?


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Kamike said:


> Nothing to disimilar to my set up, although your basking spot is warmer than mine (I have mine at 95). Is the spot bulb on a stat?


yes a microclimate dimming thermostat with a digital thermomiter and probe.


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## Kamike (Aug 3, 2009)

Hard to say whats causing it then really, mine goes of his food pre and post shed but only for 3-4 days max. I have yet to see a BD turn down a roach, maybe try him on one of them?


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Kamike said:


> Hard to say whats causing it then really, mine goes of his food pre and post shed but only for 3-4 days max. I have yet to see a BD turn down a roach, maybe try him on one of them?



ok heres the issue i have with roaches for young beardies who eat mostly insects, roaches are hard to get other then the internet, on the internet a 30 tub with postage can cost £10 (which i thinks rediculous) and if he took to them he would prolly eat the 30 in 1 day so £70 a week is not good by anyones understanding.

when beardies are an adult its way less insects and more vedge sorta a 70% to 30% insect which roughly means every other day so then at that point rouches may not be to bad money wise.

however if he dont eat soon i might have to try them but due to the silly price no way could it be a staple diet at £10 it would only be 1 tub a week and the rest something else like crickets, problem here is he totally has gone off crickets or anything else at this point


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## Jeffers3 (May 18, 2010)

Mine was off his food for quite a while, but is eating again now. beardies seem to go through spells like this. If you follow the threads on here, it is very commonplace. It's odd, because most of the time they have brilliant appetites.

Mine appeared to be brumating, but not fully. Now the night time temps are back up a bit, he seems to have switched back on to his food All through this time he did continue to eat his veg. Some days he'd eat all of it, others he'd eat less. I also made sure I kept him hydrated, using a straw to drip water onto his nose and into his mouth. His condition remained good and he didn't lose much (any noticeable) weight. He is not quite back to full "gutbucket" mode, but had about 8-10 crickets yesterday and has had 4-5 this morning. I've also made sure his veg has been dusted, to make sure he gets his supplements.

If they're not eating, the first worry is hydration, but obviously, they can't go for too long without eating anything at all. What tactics have you tried to get him to eat?


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Jeffers3 said:


> Mine was off his food for quite a while, but is eating again now. beardies seem to go through spells like this. If you follow the threads on here, it is very commonplace. It's odd, because most of the time they have brilliant appetites.
> 
> Mine appeared to be brumating, but not fully. Now the night time temps are back up a bit, he seems to have switched back on to his food All through this time he did continue to eat his veg. Some days he'd eat all of it, others he'd eat less. I also made sure I kept him hydrated, using a straw to drip water onto his nose and into his mouth. His condition remained good and he didn't lose much (any noticeable) weight. He is not quite back to full "gutbucket" mode, but had about 8-10 crickets yesterday and has had 4-5 this morning. I've also made sure his veg has been dusted, to make sure he gets his supplements.
> 
> If they're not eating, the first worry is hydration, but obviously, they can't go for too long without eating anything at all. What tactics have you tried to get him to eat?


mines to young for brumation i think its 1 years old and over or so i read.

well i did the bath thing to see if he needed a poop , yesterday he pooped but nothing today.

to get him to eat ive tried seperate tub but he just want to get out and ignores whats in there.

i tried placing one infront of him since he rarel goes of the basking platform but when a cricket runs away he dont chase it, he totally ignores it, as for the worm like as a last resort he might look but then he walk away and dont take it.

with the veg, soo as its cut i put him infront of it, sometimes he eats a leaf, sometimes he ignores it and go back to the basking area.


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

You had problems getting your Leo to eat when he was new and now problems with the beardie eating. I know you have read the caresheets and tried to get the set up and everything right so here are just a few things that I could possibly think of:

Is your thermometer correct?
Are you, or anything else, disturbing them too much before they have had time to settle in?
Are you feeding the correct sized insect?
Are you feeding at the right time?
Are you absolutely plastering the bugs with calcium or nutrobal?
Did you buy the beardie and the leo from the same place?

Just a few possibilities that spring to mind.


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## beckyyjane (Nov 14, 2010)

Be worth you getting a fecal sample done, maybe some parasites there possibly! 
D.C my female is like this sometimes wont eat anything and then eats loads!
Just keep trying with him and he might start eating again in the next couple of days. 
As for the baby food, I was told by my rep vet that is to be used as a very last resort as its not to good for them. 
But like I said best to get a sample done just to rule out any Coccidia etc. . 

Hope he perks up soon


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

jools said:


> You had problems getting your Leo to eat when he was new and now problems with the beardie eating. I know you have read the caresheets and tried to get the set up and everything right so here are just a few things that I could possibly think of:
> 
> Is your thermometer correct?
> Are you, or anything else, disturbing them too much before they have had time to settle in?
> ...


had my beardie just over 6 weeks

Is your thermometer correct?* yes*

Are you, or anything else, disturbing them too much before they have had time to settle in?* no the viv is in my bedroom*

Are you feeding the correct sized insect? *yes no bigger then the gap between its eyes*

Are you feeding at the right time? *ermmm about 3pm and then again i try at 6pm*

Are you absolutely plastering the bugs with calcium or nutrobal?* i put the bugs in a bag and add calcium and shake it up untill they aall white*

Did you buy the beardie and the leo from the same place? *yes its a very good shop stockport pet warehouse*


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## greyslady (Feb 7, 2011)

Its quite possible its just a phase...mine has done this a few times. I would suggests baths everyday to help with hydration and can clear a blockage or sooth an upset tummy. Keep trying veg and maybe a pot of meal worms then he can eat if he wants. Try a few smallish roaches to see if he likes them...mine goes nuts for them. The price is only sky high if you keep buying adult roaches for adult beardies. Should be able to get 100 nymphs for a tenner that should last about a week. Its much cheaper (and easier) to breed them when you need adults. My colony cost £100 to set up and I feed four animals out of that daily and they still breed quick enough to keep up. Havent needed to buy anything else for 6 months (Still buy them stuff for a treat tho).

If you notice any other changes like a lost of weight or change in colour or beahviour then take him to the vet just to make sure its nothing serious.


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

if i could get 100 and it would last all week for a tenner that be fine its just these online prices are bad 100 rouaches that is


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## greyslady (Feb 7, 2011)

I know what you mean! If nymphs are the right size he should eat about 10 - 15 a day so a box 100 should last a week (used to last my beardie a week) but 100 adults is three times that price a week which is madness so if he takes to them I would recommend researching how to have a colony. Mine is no hassle and means it cost my nothing to feed my pets. 

Try this guy...its where I used to get my nymphs from :2thumb:
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/food-classifieds/618263-dubia-roaches-cheapest-available.html


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

greyslady said:


> I know what you mean! If nymphs are the right size he should eat about 10 - 15 a day so a box 100 should last a week (used to last my beardie a week) but 100 adults is three times that price a week which is madness so if he takes to them I would recommend researching how to have a colony. Mine is no hassle and means it cost my nothing to feed my pets.
> 
> Try this guy...its where I used to get my nymphs from :2thumb:
> http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/food-classifieds/618263-dubia-roaches-cheapest-available.html


i dont know how big these nyphs are but the space between by beardies eyes is betwen 18 - 20 mm so judging by the link you sent it be 100 medium


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## greyslady (Feb 7, 2011)

For £11 I reckon its worth a try : victory:


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

greyslady said:


> For £11 I reckon its worth a try : victory:


i just sent a mesage to buy 1 tub to see if it takes to them, it it does it be my regular order

many thank for your information and help


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## greyslady (Feb 7, 2011)

No problem I hope he eats soon :2thumb:


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

greyslady said:


> No problem I hope he eats soon :2thumb:


i just put a tub on order , i hope he likes em, when they arive im going to feed him in a seperate tub again


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## Fionab (Mar 28, 2010)

beardies are fickle things, i have three, and my oldest went into brumation at 8 months, so although the books say a year that does not mean it cant be earlier although 4 months i would say is too young and its the wrong time of year as well...........
as to it not eating, at that age it should ideally be getting fed 2 - 3 times a day, they can and do go off certain foods periodically and permanently,. it sounds like you have your temps ok although i would think 105 is probably about right so maybe knock it down a degree or two.

two out of three of my beardies refused roaches, and none of them ate squash which was recommended as being a good kick starter to the appetite.( boiled and mashed)
the same two now refuse crickets but love hoppers and morios. the other one. well she is just a hoover.
persevere and if you still havent seen an improvement, as has been suggested pop off a fecal sample just to rule out any possible parasites etc


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Fionab said:


> two out of three of my beardies refused roaches, and none of them ate squash which was recommended as being a good kick starter to the appetite.( boiled and mashed)
> the same two now refuse crickets but love hoppers and morios


i thought morios where just giant meal worms and therefore bad as any other mealworm?


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## Bamboozoo (Oct 2, 2009)

Placing him on an electrolyte will help to increase appetite and restore balance to his system. Always a great resource for new lizards.

HEALTH NAT: Electrolytes -               BambooZoo


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Bamboozoo said:


> Placing him on an electrolyte will help to increase appetite and restore balance to his system. Always a great resource for new lizards.
> 
> HEALTH NAT: Electrolytes - ************* BambooZoo


im looking at this Reptoboost but its quite eqpenstive and it would require in his water which he dont do unless i use a seringe and on then sometimes


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

You can bathe him in it. He will absorb some through his cloaca. 

I really think it would be worth getting faecal checks for parasites done. IMO all new reps should have this as a routine and I find these very good www.palsvetlab.co.uk .

I know you have said the store you got him from is very good - I have never been there and I don't doubt it. But it is very easy for a shop to suddenly have parasite problems. All it needs is for an infected batch of crickets or an infected batch of reps (and slightly sloppy hygiene from perhaps a new member of staff).


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

jools said:


> You can bathe him in it. He will absorb some through his cloaca.
> 
> I really think it would be worth getting faecal checks for parasites done. IMO all new reps should have this as a routine and I find these very good www.palsvetlab.co.uk .
> 
> I know you have said the store you got him from is very good - I have never been there and I don't doubt it. But it is very easy for a shop to suddenly have parasite problems. All it needs is for an infected batch of crickets or an infected batch of reps (and slightly sloppy hygiene from perhaps a new member of staff).


i downloaded the price list but i dont know what im asking for


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## Jeffers3 (May 18, 2010)

Chrisuk33 said:


> i thought morios where just giant meal worms and therefore bad as any other mealworm?


They're similar, but not the same. Also mealworms aren't "bad".


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## greyslady (Feb 7, 2011)

The 'problem' with meal worms is their crunchy shells can get stuck in a small tummy if too many are eaten. The meat to shell ratio of morio worms is higher so less shell gets eaten causing less problems - my beardie loves them :2thumb:


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## Jeffers3 (May 18, 2010)

The mealworm shell is not significantly different to a cricket or locust shell in terms of it's "crunchiness". The adult mealworm (beetle) is very high in chitin, but mealworm larvae are not a problem.


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Jeffers3 said:


> They're similar, but not the same. Also mealworms aren't "bad".


well ok not bad but not a staple food by any means.

its just when ive seen them for sale it describes them as super meal worms or giant meal worms.

do they have this same problem with shell and thereforre hard to dijest?


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

im looking in to vitamin suliments cos some of those can bring back a apitite but in not sure which to get lol

REPTILE VITAMIN SPRAY SUPPLEMENT 8OZ - DiscountedPetProducts.Net

this is a vitamin B supliment which includes vitamin B1 for apitite and B12 for digestion ( it doesnt say what the b vitamins do but i read on it)

or theres reptiboost 
Vetark ReptoBoost 100g

which i hear is more for stressed out reptiles

or 

APPETITE STIMULANT 4.25OZ - DiscountedPetProducts.Net
which is another apitite stimulant but if its just B1 vitamin (which increases apitite) isnt it just the same as the first?

i was thinking of getting the first 2 but not sure if they do the same thing really and also if i can use them at the same time, you know dose it with one and the other


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## Jeffers3 (May 18, 2010)

Chrisuk33 said:


> well ok not bad but not a staple food by any means.
> 
> its just when ive seen them for sale it describes them as super meal worms or giant meal worms.
> 
> do they have this same problem with shell and thereforre hard to dijest?


Quite a lot of people feed morios regularly and even mealworms often. They don't have a problem with the shell and are no more difficult to digest than a cricket. They are not nutritionally as good as crickets, which is the main downside - but they're not that bad either. It's best to provide a mixture anyway, as they will get fed up with the same thing all the time.


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

Jeffers3 said:


> Quite a lot of people feed morios regularly and even mealworms often. They don't have a problem with the shell and are no more difficult to digest than a cricket. They are not nutritionally as good as crickets, which is the main downside - but they're not that bad either. It's best to provide a mixture anyway, as they will get fed up with the same thing all the time.


well i know my beardie has a harder time with meal worms then crickets when it comes to the bathroom.

when it eats crickets regular it might popp every other day, if it eats meals worms in any excess or regularity then it takes about 4 days to poop and useually needs the hot water and belly rub to help it poop


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

because hes not eating regular or properly yet ive started to get some bottle water, put a bit in a lid, put a tiny bit of calcium powder so the water clouds up and then get a needless sernge and give him the water with calcium powder in it that way.

ive also ordered some reptoboost as reccomended


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## beckyyjane (Nov 14, 2010)

Chrisuk33 said:


> because hes not eating regular or properly yet ive started to get some bottle water, put a bit in a lid, put a tiny bit of calcium powder so the water clouds up and then get a needless sernge and give him the water with calcium powder in it that way.
> 
> ive also ordered some reptoboost as reccomended


Ive got reptiboost and highly recommended it! I bathe mine in it, only time Bri tends to drink, If you do make sure you rinse them off as it makes them quite sticky afterwards


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

beckyyjane said:


> Ive got reptiboost and highly recommended it! I bathe mine in it, only time Bri tends to drink, If you do make sure you rinse them off as it makes them quite sticky afterwards


i think it said 4g per 500ml so i might try give him some a few times a day from my 2ml needless seringe, i can get a small used pop bottle and mix some bottle water and reptoboost in it which might last a few days to a week.
i may bathe him in it about once a week for about 10 mins.

how long does it take before you see the effects?


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## beckyyjane (Nov 14, 2010)

Chrisuk33 said:


> i think it said 4g per 500ml so i might try give him some a few times a day from my 2ml needless seringe, i can get a small used pop bottle and mix some bottle water and reptoboost in it which might last a few days to a week.
> i may bathe him in it about once a week for about 10 mins.
> 
> how long does it take before you see the effects?


Not sure with just that as I used it with the Coccidia meds, but saw improvements pretty quick


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## Chrisuk33 (Oct 10, 2010)

beckyyjane said:


> Not sure with just that as I used it with the Coccidia meds, but saw improvements pretty quick


****UPDATE****

I got the roaches today he ate 8 so these roaches might be my standing order

its the first time hes ate a propper staple food in 10 days
also the thing i did with bit of bottle water and calcium powder with a sernge seemed to have give him a boost today so i think thats going to be a daily routine


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