# The Laymans Guide To A Calm Tarantula



## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

*D O N ' T P A N I C

*It's a common question asked by many and on several occasions, "How do I deal with a less than happy tarantula?". The sad news is, that as tarantulas become more and more popular (I still personally believe this "boom" is a "fad") there are more and more species available on the market. These species are often incorrectly identified, and even more often sold with incorrect care regimens given. At the very least, a lot of the species sold in the pet hobby are sold to people wholly "unqualified" to care for it.

By this, I mean the large number of people who are being sold tarantulas such as _Haplopelma lividum_ (Cobalt blue), _Pterinochilus spp_. (Mombassa starburst, Kilimanjaro mustard, etc...) or even the likes of _Poecilotheria_ spp. (The "Ornamentals"), and _Heteroscodra maculata_ (Togo starburst), despite never having owned a tarantula, or even any previous pet besides maybe a hamster.

This is dangerous not only for the tarantula (which may die in incorrect care), for the owner, family and other people/animals in the house (who may not know that the spider they were sold as "perfectly docile" is actually "fast, actively defensive and medically significant" simply because "docile" is easier to sell) but also for the hobby. Sell a dangerous tarantula to someone unqualified, or sell it with incorrect care and you get dissatisfied customers who pass the experience on to friends, families and such. This gives Ts a bad name, something we're just beginning to pull them up out of.

But enough of a reflective look at the state of the hobby, on to the main question of how to deal with the tarantula you just discovered_ isn't_ the little ball of fluff you may/may not have thought it was. This information is equally as valid for someone keeping a _Haplopelma _or _Poecilotheria_ as it is to someone who happens to have a less-than-docile "Chilean rose".


*
In Regards To Cage Maintenance:*

By this, I mean you need to get in there and take the water bowl out for cleaning and/or refilling, or there are uneaten crickets you want to salvage. Maybe you're trying to get a newly found exuvia from the enclosure. Whatever the case, here's how:

*1.* The first thing to do is to announce your presence to the tarantula. There's nothing better at scaring and stressing a tarantula than suddenly ripping the roof off and poking around. How'd you react if your roof was ripped away? Tap the enclosure gently, or handle it (the enclosure!), moving it around. Chances are the tarantula will either dive for it's burrow or retreat, or it may huddle and stay still hoping to go unnoticed. Either way, this is a good start.

*2.* After carefully removing the lid, check the tarantulas temperament now. For this you will require a long device of sorts; an artists paint brush is perfect, just ensure it's at least 12" long. Holding it by the wooden end, gently stroke the patella (knee) of one of the tarantulas legs with the bristles and see how the tarantula reacts. Likely, it will huddle more, dart for cover or throw up a threat display.

*3.* If the spider merely huddles more, you should be fine to perform the maintenance as long as you ensure not to repeatedly touch the spider or to get too close to it. I'd highly recommend using long (12"+) forceps for this now, just to be safe. The important thing here is to not touch the tarantula, but even moreso, to remain calm! If you're shaking and jumpy, mistakes will be made, and those mistakes may cause you to jump or at least start at the slightest provocation. This is dangerous. *Keep calm* and don't worry. Your chances of being bitten are still _very_ low.

*4.* If the spider darts for its burrow or retreat, problem solved, as long as you don't get too close to the retreat. I'd still recommend using long forceps but it's not as important as above.

*5. *If you are faced with a threat display (the tarantula reaches upwards with its front legs, may have its fangs out, and may be 'dancing' up and down) then you have a few options based on the situation:
If the spider is not too close to the area you wish to deal with, you may choose to continue. Use long forceps and work swiftly (*do not rush, do not panic!*).
If the spider is too close, you may choose to coral the spider into a tub or around the enclosure. To do this, find a suitable sized tub and hold it just in front of the spider with one hand, angling the tub so that it's at about a 45 degree angle upwards from the spider. Gently, but firmly, prod its back legs with the paintbrush, pushing it gently into the tub. Apply lid, voila. We'll come to getting tarantulas back out of tubs later in the "In Regards To Getting The Spider Back Out" section.
If the spider is too close and you are not comfortable coraling, come back later when the spider may have moved away from the area.

Sorted, well done! Don't worry, you'll get better at this with practice. You'll learn to read the signs and you'll know the actions your spider is likely to take.



*In Regards To Potting A Tarantula That's In A Threat Display:*

It's very easy to say "pot it up", but the first few times it can be very daunting. My girlfriend put this perfectly when she said "It's still tense; at the end of the day, that spider is still coming up towards your hand, even if it _is_ in a tub!" and it can take a while to condition yourself to understanding this.

Until you're a little more used to it, here is a basic technique to deal with it.

*1.* Remember, the spider is aware you are so much bigger than it. It will only bite or attack if strongly provoked, and even then, it only has a short reach. Keeping your fingers clear at all times ensures safety. Remove the lid of the enclosure carefully so as not to outright startle the tarantula.

*2. *Place the transferal tub into your hand so only your finger tips hold it, and on the enclosed end. Make sure your grip is firm however. Place the opening in front of the spider, calmly and slowly. Don't let the entrance touch the spider. If the spider is rearing, place the tub just in front of it, your fingers are well out of the way.
*
3.* Holding the tub firmly, lift it so the tub is angle up from the spider at about a 45 degree angle.
*
4.* With the tub in place, held still in one hand (preferably your 'off-hand') take a paintbrush or similar device in your other hand. Gently but firmly prod the spider from behind and into the tub. The spider should move into the tub.

*5.* Remain calm, by having the spider run up into the tub, it is highly unlikely it will try to retreat out again. Take the tubs lid and put it into place. Start from the top and press it on so that again, your fingers are kept well clear and should the spider decide to run, it's not going to run 'up' the lid and onto your hand, but down and onto the substrate again.

*6.* Once the lid is on, lift the tub out. Congratulations, you have tubbed a spider!

*
In Regards To Getting The Spider Back Out Again:*

Of course, it's often said that getting the spider into the tub is the easier half of the job, and personally, sorry to say it, I'd agree. So, you have this spider tubbed up, you've done what you need to and you're about to put the spider into it's enclosure. Here's a few ideas.

*1.* The simplest method is to just put the tub into the enclosure and take off the lid (if you have to 'peel' the lid off, make sure the tub is horizontal and peel from the bottom, this keeps your fingers out of the way) and place the tub into the enclosure and leave it there for the spider to make it's own way out. This method isn't without its drawbacks however, and the spider may decide to web the tub up as a hide, and this method isn't possible if the tub is too big to get the enclosures lid on again...

*2. *The second method is safest for the spider but requires some skill on your part. As above, carefully peel off the lid and hold the enclosure as close to horizontal as possible at all times. With your trusty paintbrush (held now at the very tip, but firmly) gently get behind the spider and coral them back out. This can be tricky, daunting and often results in the spider dashing. *Don't panic!* Your fingers are all well clear, just take it calmly and eventually you'll be successful. Again, you'll get used to it with practice. 

*3.* Some people gently shake the spider out of the container. I do not recommend this for the simple reason that it is difficult to get the right balance of shaking the pot hard enough to get the spider out, but not so hard you injure it. *Do not try this!


**All in all, the best bit of advice is to remain calm at all times!!!*​


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## craigisageek (Oct 11, 2009)

I thought this was some very sound advice, 2 thumbs up mate :2thumb:


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## Elaine R (Feb 2, 2008)

1. If the spider is calm there is no need to stick a paintbrush in its face to see if it is in fact calm. All you are doing is upsetting an already calm spider. Even a novice keeper will be able to see if their spider is in fact calm or arsy just by opening the lid.

2. Tubbing the spider - holding the tub with the spider entering the tub (point to note) the spider can make it out of that tub and onto your hand in less time than it takes you to blink, especially the arboreal spiders, which if anyone has been keeping arboreals for any length of time will already know that they can and do teleport.

3. A 12 inch paintbrush to a spider is in fact a nice 12 inch ladder of which they can cover that distance in about 0.2 seconds.

In summary - calm spider...just get on with maintenance while keeping an eye on the spider. 
Arsy spider...leave maintenance until another day.

Follow the above and your hands will be safe.


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## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

Elaine R said:


> 1. If the spider is calm there is no need to stick a paintbrush in its face to see if it is in fact calm. All you are doing is upsetting an already calm spider. Even a novice keeper will be able to see if their spider is in fact calm or arsy just by opening the lid.
> 
> 2. Tubbing the spider - holding the tub with the spider entering the tub (point to note) the spider can make it out of that tub and onto your hand in less time than it takes you to blink, especially the arboreal spiders, which if anyone has been keeping arboreals for any length of time will already know that they can and do teleport.
> 
> ...


I disagree.

1. Many appear calm at first but going near them can provoke a strong reaction. A gentle stroke is hardly upsetting it, you're just testing for a strong reaction or if the spider is calm. I've moved stuff and heard of others maintaining a cage with a spider that appears calm, and suddenly a slight touch and the thing is rearing. I'm sure the novices would rather check and maybe upset the spider a little than to suddenly face that out of the blue.

2. That is why the tub is angled in such a way they can't get onto the top of it. A horizontal tub is a gateway, one tilted upwards appears as a safe retreat. The only time I have ever had a spider get onto my wrist (or heard of anyone else having so) was with either a horizontal tub or one way too small. This method has never been reported to give the spider chance to get on top.

3. Only for very select spiders. A 6" pokie cannot climb a paintbrush with a diameter of 5mm, they just cannot get their legs to walk up it as it's too small.


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## Elaine R (Feb 2, 2008)

ph0bia said:


> I disagree.


Thought you might  My partner has over 35 years experience of most species of Tarantula. It was his words and I completely agree even though I've only been keeping T's for a little under 3 years.


ph0bia said:


> 1. Many appear calm at first but going near them can provoke a strong reaction. A gentle stroke is hardly upsetting it, you're just testing for a strong reaction or if the spider is calm. I've moved stuff and heard of others maintaining a cage with a spider that appears calm, and suddenly a slight touch and the thing is rearing. I'm sure the novices would rather check and maybe upset the spider a little than to suddenly face that out of the blue.


I see absolutely no need to annoy a spider for any reason. Generally just removing the lid is enough to guage a reaction. 


ph0bia said:


> 2. That is why the tub is angled in such a way they can't get onto the top of it. A horizontal tub is a gateway, one tilted upwards appears as a safe retreat. The only time I have ever had a spider get onto my wrist (or heard of anyone else having so) was with either a horizontal tub or one way too small. This method has never been reported to give the spider chance to get on top.


Any space is a way out. You will have a Pokie, Psalmo, Avic out, round the tub up your arm before you've even noticed it has moved. Too late, you've already been tagged.


ph0bia said:


> 3. Only for very select spiders. A 6" pokie cannot climb a paintbrush with a diameter of 5mm, they just cannot get their legs to walk up it as it's too small.


Obviously you havent been in the hobby long enough to witness this yet. For a 6 inch Poke a 12 inch paintbrush is only one little jump up. An arboreal only needs to get slight grip with one pad/tarsal hook to have a launch pad lol. Tree's dont only have large, thick branches you know.

And still along the lines of having experience with these creatures..... a threat pose doesnt necessarily mean a bite is coming. Its just a warning.


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## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

I've kept tarantulas in my home for a year, I've dealt with them for five years now. Forgive me when I ask why it would jump upwards using a paintbrush when it can run away around it to get away?

For the second part, what would you suggest then? As I stated, I've never had any problems with this method, nor has anyone I've heard using it. If nothing else, this seems to reduce the liklihood of an up-arm escape route compared with a horizontal tubbing technique and it's certainly not always possible (or advised, due to trapping) to come directly from above.


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## Elaine R (Feb 2, 2008)

ph0bia said:


> I've kept tarantulas in my home for a year, I've dealt with them for five years now. Forgive me when I ask why it would jump upwards using a paintbrush when it can run away around it to get away?
> 
> For the second part, what would you suggest then? As I stated, I've never had any problems with this method, nor has anyone I've heard using it. If nothing else, this seems to reduce the liklihood of an up-arm escape route compared with a horizontal tubbing technique and it's certainly not always possible (or advised, due to trapping) to come directly from above.


All we're saying is that your original post would be considered gospel by a beginner to the hobby, this is just because most newcomers look at the length of some posts and think "wow they must be well experienced" the main flaw with that is all spiders will and do take completely unnecessary actions, these cannot be accounted for in any list of "what to do in a situation" post.

The above comments about what spiders can do with their fantastic acrobatics is from experience and my partner suffering an unprovoked bite or two.

We'll leave it there and if someone reads the above and follows it to the letter - then gets bitten or has a spider loose in the house - it will not be for the want of trying to get points across, on my part, for taking each situation as it poses itself and dealing with it accordingly with common sense.

My partner says confidence should not be confused with complacency and if spiders read the same books as we do then the hobby would be a little more predictable.


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## Craig Mackay (Feb 2, 2009)

Gotta agree with Elaine on this. Absolutely no need to touch the spider at all. Common sense, a steady hand and reading the signs the spider gives are far more useful. Touching a spider that's minding it's own business is only more likely to annoy it. It's such an unessecary step to take and I wouldn't recommend it. Just stay calm, go in and do what you have to do and get out. If the spider does get defensive close the lid and try again another time.

As for tubbing a spider up everyone has their own way of doing it, none of which are without an element of risk. If the tub entrance is big enough/spider small enough I just put the tub over the spider and slide the lid under (carefully). I find when the lid touches the spiders legs it will lift them and eventually climb the tub allowing you to close the lid. Job done in 1 minutes. This doesn't work for huge spiders, spiders against the tank wall or spiders that won't hold still. Still though, I find no need to even touch the tub. Just stick it next to the spider and persaude it in. May take a few attempts but believe me a fast T could definately be up and over the tub onto your hand and sink it's fangs in before you can say ****. Same goes for the paintbrush. It's never happened to me but I've seen it so many times on youtube and heard plenty of bite reports/escapes to know that it happens faster than you can imagine.


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## Kamike (Aug 3, 2009)

Apart from putting my T's in bigger tanks I dont see the need to tub them full stop. So that means no paint brushes so stressed spiders. The best way to re house them is to put their old tub inside the new tube and wait for them to come out when they are ready. If you do need to spot clean just use a long pair of tweezers and job jobbed.

Stop trying to reinvent the wheel


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## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

I'm not reinventing the wheel, as sometimes the enclosure doesn't fit in the new one, sometimes you _do_ need to remove your tarantula (ICU anyone?). 
Yu guys may all be happy to use forceps and nothing else, perfectly comfortable working around your OBTs and pokies, but am I the only one who remembers what it was like *before* you were comfortable with them???

Jesus christ, why do I do this?! If it weren't for the fact that I get to help the hobby by helping the new keepers, I'd be off this forum for the god-damned flame wars. I'm sick of people unable to leave _constructive_ comments rather than burning everything they don't like! Seriously, what happened to a simple "I disagree, I believe this..." and put it politely without crap like:


Elaine R said:


> Thought you might





Elaine R said:


> Obviously you havent been in the hobby long enough to witness this yet.





Kamike said:


> Stop trying to reinvent the wheel


Then again, I'm probably crazy asking for some manners.
Sorry, shoot me for trying to help. I didn't realise it was a crime.

:biteme:

Can a mod lock this please? I'm sick of the sh*t already.


*EDIT:* Oh, before I go, let's set the record straight here, 35 years or not.



Elaine R said:


> The above comments about what spiders can do with their fantastic acrobatics is from experience and my partner suffering an unprovoked bite or two.


There is* no such thing* as an 'unprovoked bite'. These creatures attack *ONLY *to defend themselves from a perceived predator. If you get bitten, it is_ your _fault. There is no such thing as a malicious tarantula actively hunting your hand around the enclosure, only someone being careless, complacent or cocky.


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## Josh-sama (Sep 26, 2008)

Elaine R said:


> The above comments about what spiders can do with their fantastic acrobatics is from experience and my partner suffering an unprovoked bite or two.


I thought Tarantulas only had a few instincts.



Eat
Defence

So a spider will only bite when feeling threatened? Not just walk along and go "Oh, arm! Even though I do not know it's an arm, I'll bite it anyway" :whistling2:


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## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

Josh-sama said:


> I thought Tarantulas only had a few instincts.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


They have a few more instincts than that, but that last sentence (which has been implied in the above replies) is absolutely absurd, isn't it?

Also:



Craig Mackay said:


> Gotta agree with Elaine on this. Absolutely no need to touch the spider at all. Common sense, a steady hand and reading the signs the spider gives are far more useful. Touching a spider that's minding it's own business is only more likely to annoy it. It's such an unessecary step to take and I wouldn't recommend it. Just stay calm, go in and do what you have to do and get out. If the spider does get defensive close the lid and try again another time.


I'm talking about gently stroking it, which Dr. Breene actually states as can actually calm a tarantula down. Yes, seriously. 



Craig Mackay said:


> As for tubbing a spider up everyone has their own way of doing it,


So why am I being slain for my own?



Craig Mackay said:


> believe me a fast T could definately be up and over the tub onto your hand and sink it's fangs in before you can say ****. Same goes for the paintbrush. It's never happened to me but I've seen it so many times on youtube and heard plenty of bite reports/escapes to know that it happens faster than you can imagine.


Oh yes, YouTube, the source of everything accurate, same with bite reports. I put a topic up recently at how many fake bite reports there are. Also, very few Ts will run up and immediately bite. As Elaine stated, bites are rare, and unprovoked ones don't exist. I'm sorry, but that reply demonizes Ts as vicious, which they're really not.

I'm sorry, but what was meant as a topic to help people out has mutated into something utterly horrible because a few people are hypocritical and high strung.


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## Josh-sama (Sep 26, 2008)

ph0bia said:


> They have a few more instincts than that, but that last sentence (which has been implied in the above replies) is absolutely absurd, isn't it?


Would've added more, but I didn't want to talk out of my arse. :lol2:

And yeah, I thought when handling they didn't exactly know what it was, just land and they have sense receptors in the hair which trigger their flight or fight response?


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## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

Pretty much. There is evidence to suggest that a very hungry spider (or one that is feeding) will confuse the pulse of a vein as food and bite for that (courtesy of Ray Hale), but besides that...

Can I also point out other things?

It's been suggested that you needn't even move your T, just use long forceps... which according to Elaine are a bridge to your hand? Apparently our forceps should have a handle like a rapier that completely encloses the hand...
Also, some of us like to enjoy and interact with our spiders a little bit more than "If it won't cooperate, put the lid back on and leave it". These replies are saying that there's no need or desire to interact with your Ts at all, it's better to just let them do whatever, throw it in an enclosure, put it on a shelf and feed it every now and then...


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## Kamike (Aug 3, 2009)

Don't be offened by my post it was not my intention to offend

Your helpful posts come across as gospel some times and slighty over complicated. Is telling a new owner to use a paintbrush the best advice to be giving?

I know you know a lot about keeping T's but your eagerness to advise people or show your knowledge can sometimes be detrimental.

I have nothing but respect for you for posting hints and tips but it is kind of extreme for a beginner in some cases.

Keep it up, I'm sure that the author of the T keepers guide gets as much stick for some of his views.


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## Poxicator (Nov 14, 2007)

I rarely find the need to tub, maintenance is easily performed with a quick removal of any uneaten food or mould. Tubbing is for rehousing or mating purposes IMO. However if you can get a tub over a T then you can easily perform any necessary maintenance without removing it from the enclosure. And if its a burrower like H. lividum then a tub over the burrow will suffice.

I go with Craigs method if I need to remove and Elaine & Colin's view:
Arsy spider...leave maintenance until another day.


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## GRB (Jan 24, 2008)

I refrained from commenting earlier, because I do think your enthusiasm is to be encouraged rather than curbed.

However, this stuff is basic info and can be gleaned from just about every cheap text on tarantula husbandry. I read this and found it to be somewhat OTT - it reads like a cheap American TV show where everything is for some reason over dramatised. 

Why not write some articles on things that are not so obvious, or things that would otherwise require a hefty literature search? 
Perhaps a guide to some common genera, with species info, natural geographic ranges and perhaps a key to ID them? This would probably be a great addition as these normally require a painful and prolonged literature trawl. :2thumb:


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## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

Actually, that's not such a bad idea


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## The Lone Gunman (Oct 14, 2009)

ph0bia said:


> After carefully removing the lid, check the tarantulas temperament now. For this you will require a long device of sorts; an artists paint brush is perfect, just ensure it's at least 12" long. Holding it by the wooden end, gently stroke the patella (knee) of one of the tarantulas legs with the bristles and see how the tarantula reacts. Likely, it will huddle more, dart for cover or throw up a threat display.


I've got to be honest with you, I think this is terrible advice.

I've been keeping tarantulas for around nine or ten years, although I don't consider myself anything like an expert as I've only kept what are generally regarded as the most docile species. However, in my experience, the last thing you would want to do while performing enclosure maintenance is poke your spider with a paintbrush, especially if it is already sitting quietly.

Common sense dictates that the less you disturb the creature, the less likely it is to become irritated. If it is already shwoing signs of agitation, then common sense also dictates that you should leave the maintenance until another day.


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## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

The Lone Gunman said:


> I've got to be honest with you, I think this is terrible advice.
> 
> I've been keeping tarantulas for around nine or ten years, although I don't consider myself anything like an expert as I've only kept what are generally regarded as the most docile species. However, in my experience, the last thing you would want to do while performing enclosure maintenance is poke your spider with a paintbrush, especially if it is already sitting quietly.
> 
> Common sense dictates that the less you disturb the creature, the less likely it is to become irritated. If it is already shwoing signs of agitation, then common sense also dictates that you should leave the maintenance until another day.


I still maintain that on numerous occassions, I have been cleaning the enclosure of what appeared to be a docile and calm spider and, during the maintenance, it has suddenly reared, or moved towards me and slapped the substrate or suddenly darted away and out of the enclosure.

By giving the spider a very gentle brushing, you are giving it the minor disturbance that I'd given it in the above example. If it darts then, or rears then, all the better that you can now continue knowing the spiders composure. The last thing a novice wants is for the quiet, calm spider to suddenly rear whilst their hand is in the tank.

Just taking the lid off is not always a good enough indication. It seems many will sit there as if docile and calm, perhaps hoping you do not notice, then suddenly decide to do something about it.

That is what I am suggesting.

This whole "_If the spider is pissy, just leave it_" thing is a load of codswallop too. What if you need to move the spider to an ICU? What if it's a spider you're trying to tub up to send it away or to give to someone? What if you're trying to get the spider out of the enclosure because of a serious outbreak of mould? Leaving it in there isn't always an option.


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## Poxicator (Nov 14, 2007)

ph0bia said:


> ...This whole "_If the spider is pissy, just leave it_" thing is a load of codswallop too. What if you need to move the spider to an ICU? What if it's a spider you're trying to tub up to send it away or to give to someone? What if you're trying to get the spider out of the enclosure because of a serious outbreak of mould? Leaving it in there isn't always an option.


Ben, most people have no need to regularly remove their tarantula from their enclosures but as stated above if there is a need to do so for the reasons you've given then they'll tub it up using the various methods above. 
I suspect the reason for regularly tubbing a T is for handling purposes but there are few people who have been in the hobby for a good length of time that will suggest handling is a good idea, save for the US. 

A pair of tweezers is a much better tool than sticking your hand in, but there's no guarantee the T won't attack the tweezers nor any guarantee that they T will not attack after its been prodded with a paintbrush.


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## garlicpickle (Jan 16, 2009)

ph0bia said:


> I still maintain that on numerous occassions, I have been cleaning the enclosure of what appeared to be a docile and calm spider and, during the maintenance, it has suddenly reared, or moved towards me and slapped the substrate or suddenly darted away and out of the enclosure.
> 
> By giving the spider a very gentle brushing, you are giving it the minor disturbance that I'd given it in the above example. If it darts then, or rears then, all the better that you can now continue knowing the spiders composure. The last thing a novice wants is for the quiet, calm spider to suddenly rear whilst their hand is in the tank.
> 
> Just taking the lid off is not always a good enough indication. It seems many will sit there as if docile and calm, perhaps hoping you do not notice, then suddenly decide to do something about it.


I expect you will think I'm being mean by pointing this out, but my intention really isn't to have a dig. You have mentioned being bitten 3 times since joining this forum! Is this advisory post supposed to be a result of learning from your mistakes?

If so, I still don't think it really holds up.

There are some spiders (in my experience Haplopelma seem to do this) who will seemingly tolerate tickling or prodding for quite some time, only to explode into action suddenly and without warning. For me to prod my H. hainanum once gently with a paintbrush, and then assume from its non-response that it was in a good mood and that I could blithely perform tank maintenance around it, would be foolhardy to say the least.

With regards to getting a spider into ICU or a packing tub, a swift decisive approach (eg dropping a tub over the spider) is far less likely to end in an escaped spider or a bitten owner than messing around tickling it with paintbrushes to gauge its mood! No spider is going to be in a good mood after being herded into a packing tub, so why worry about ensuring it's in a good mood *before* it goes in there?

If you're talking about getting a usually docile animal out for handling or photographs, I can see the merit of testing to see if it's having a "good day" or not. But for normal tank maintenance, transfer to ICU, or packing, I really can't see the usefulness of a preliminary prod.


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## Josh-sama (Sep 26, 2008)

In all fairness this guide is useful but it's not. (Make sense?)

Yes, people have big collections and messing around with an angry tarantula during maitenance is a bit of hassle and they leave it for another day, for obvious reasons. Some people like interaction with their tarantula and for handling/moving purposes this guide is very useful. I mean, you don't go picking up a T straight away for handling, you'd want to test the mood.

Both parties have raised good points and I agree with both. For something as simple as spot cleaning a tank, yes provoking the tarantula is a tad unorthodox. Especially if you're using tweezers.

But testing the mood with a paint brush for handling and moving I think is very reasonable and nothing is done wrong. But unprovoking the tarantula by simply tubbing it, or ignoring it for cleaning & maitenance isn't wrong either.


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## ph0bia (Feb 21, 2009)

adlock:


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## Craig Mackay (Feb 2, 2009)

ph0bia said:


> So why am I being slain for my own?


Ben, I'm sorry if you think I was slaying you for your way of tubbing. When I said everyone has their own way of doing it thats precisely what I meant. Everyone is entitled to do it whatever way works for them and if it works then great. It's just not the way I would choose to do it as I feel it'd put me at a greater risk but if it suits you then go for it. 



ph0bia said:


> Oh yes, YouTube, the source of everything accurate, same with bite reports.


Unless, there have been many elaborate hoaxes (which if your sensible about it I'm sure you would doubt)then yes, I have seen many large spiders run up peoples tweezers/paintbrushes etc with alarming ease. I take that as undeniable proof that this can happen. I'm sure many bite reports are exaggerrated too but it happens, fact! Whether it's happened to you or not you have to accept its always a risk.



ph0bia said:


> Also, some of us like to enjoy and interact with our spiders a little bit more than "If it won't cooperate, put the lid back on and leave it". These replies are saying that there's no need or desire to interact with your Ts at all, it's better to just let them do whatever, throw it in an enclosure, put it on a shelf and feed it every now and then...


Tarantula's neither need or appreciate any interaction with us. I'm not sure what kind of interaction your implying here. Most people like to enjoy there spiders for what they are and like to observe and learn from their behaviour. You can't interact and build trust/relationships with these animals.


Thats the last I'm gonna say on the matter as I've noticed you've asked twice for the thread to be locked and I want to respect that wish. I just wanted the chance to explain myself as I felt I had been quoted out of context with regards to the slaying.

Craig


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