# Amphibian healthcare



## Darbz (Mar 22, 2009)

I've seen quite a few posts regarding what to do because I've done .... with my frog.

So I thought I would write a quick guide on amphibian healthcare :2thumb:

Edit: I'd like to add at this point, I'm not a vet (although i have done a bit of veterinary care). This information comes mainly from experience and what i consider common sense 

If anyone has any questions or disagrees with anything I've written, let me know..I don't bite :lol2:

Handling and restraint

Amphibians can be very delicate creatures. As such, handling should always be kept to a minimum and only performed when strictly necessary, Container to container transfers being preferable to physical restraint.
When handling is required, you should wear power-free gloves wetted with de-chlorinated water to prevent the transfer of any skin oils to the amphibian or any toxins onto your skin. Remember to wash hands after handling and always change gloves between animals when handling more than one. I do not recommend that restraint is used to examine dart-frogs or small froglets due to their size and general fragile nature.

_Container to container transfer_

Where possible, this is the preferred method of moving an animal. As it is less stressful and the chance of injuries occurring is much lower. You can either leave the container you wish to use open and wait until your animal enters of its own will or gently coerce the animal to enter. This may not always be possible or viable and restraint may be required to transfer an animal.

_Small frogs or toads_

Small frogs and toads are best restrained for examination by gently holding between thumb and forefinger with the rear legs extended. 

_Large frogs or toads_

Larger frogs or toads may need to be supported round the middle between the fore and back legs.

_Medium to large salamanders_

Salamanders can be held in a gently closed fist, with the head protruding between thumb and forefinger, allowing the tail to protrude past the little finger.

_Froglets and tadpoles_

Small froglets and tadpoles should not be handled, since damage to their gills is likely to occur. They can be transferred using a small net but should always be examined visually.


Visual examination

When performing a visual assessment, things to note are; Respiration rate (if possible) and quality (fast, laboured, normal etc.), Posture and body position, ocular anatomy and presence of skin lesions.
Other things to note at this stage could be; feeding response or lack of, unusual activity (i.e. diurnal activity in nocturnal species, etc.), unusual lethargy or difficulty moving.
All of these things will indicate how the animal should be handled, if at all. Large ulcers, fractures, tissue or organ prolapse or extreme lethargy may mean that handling is not viable and should be referred to a vet.

Physical examination

When performing a physical exam it is important to be thorough. Dehydration is possible with prolonged examination so it is important to be concise and keep the animal moist. You should note body condition and muscle mass, as well as examining for any skeletal defects. 
If you are not confident or knowledgeable about the species you keep, physical examination is best left to a vet.

Weight should be taken during an exam, as this will eliminate the need to disturb the animal later on in order to check its weight.

Other information

If you have concerns about something you have discovered during an examination, make an appointment as soon as possible. Some information that may be useful to the vet could be; recent feeding/weight and temperature/humidity information and history (Age, any previous conditions etc.)

When attending a vet’s clinic, you should try to obtain a fecal sample as this will be required to diagnose certain conditions.



Some common accidents:

Broken vivarium glass

Using gloves if possible, carefully remove the glass from the area. Move the occupants into a clear container for examination. Examine each animal visually and physically for wounds.

Minor wound

A minor wound should not be a problems as long as it is cared for correctly. After restraining the animal, apply slight pressure to the wound to stop any bleeding, wounds can be cleaned with sterile water or saline solution. Prepare a tub or tray with enough fluid to cover the body but leave the head above the surface to allow for breathing. Bath animals for approx 5 minutes, after which remove the animal. Liquid bandages can be considered but are generally not required. All skin wounds in amphibians should be referred to a vet due to the likelihood of bacterial infection.

Dropped frog

Most frogs will survive a fall from table or waist height with no serious injuries. Observe the frog in a warm, humid environment. If you notice anything out of the ordinary, carry out a physical examination and consider referral to a vet.

Trauma

Crushing injuries can occur from handling or the environment. Prey enduced trauma is also common.
If you suspect a fracture or skeletal deformity, consult a vet.

Prolapse

A prolapse will present as an exposure of tissue (i.e stomach) through the oral, or more likely, the cloaca (e.g. rectum, oviduct or urinary bladder)

Any prolapsed tissue will need to be kept moist, and may resolve naturally after a few hours. However, upon discovery of a prolapse you should phone your vets for advice, and if it the prolapse is not resolved within a few hours, make an emergency appointment.


Not eating or inactive

Not eating or inactivity can be a sign of illness in amphibians. Monitor humidity and temperature levels closely, and monitor food intake. If you are concerned, consult your vet.


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## Morgan Freeman (Jan 14, 2009)

Nice post, cheers!


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## Darbz (Mar 22, 2009)

:2thumb:


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## jennlovesfrogs (Jan 22, 2009)

thanks for a great post, we do get these questions raised an awful lot, so be good to refer to this to help peeps 

we could do with some more like this, ie, specific basics for certain species (common ones) like whites, or red eyes,etc.. as we get the usual, what temps, and humidity, and set up size. etc. a lot too, and some care sheets can be conflicting. 

but well done you anyway!! xx


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## Darbz (Mar 22, 2009)

Thanks :blush:

took a fair while to type, it must be said


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## jennlovesfrogs (Jan 22, 2009)

LOL, I bet it did!


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## andaroo (Nov 14, 2008)

thats great, very useful.

It annoys me that every other section on this forum has stickys apart from here! Who is the moderator around here?!


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## jennlovesfrogs (Jan 22, 2009)

yes, we should demand one!! lol.


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## Darbz (Mar 22, 2009)

Oooh..could I have the first 'phib section' sticky? :O


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## SiUK (Feb 15, 2007)

maybe a silly question :blush: but can amphibians get mites? If so how are you supposed to treat them?


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## amphibifriend (Aug 6, 2009)

No question is ever silly! Yes amphibians can get mites, harvest (trombiculid) mites are occassionally a problem on terrestrial amphibs. They can cause little reddish/bloody looking blisters on the skin. Ivermectin can be used to treat them. Hope that helps.


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## luvmytreefrog (Jan 31, 2010)

*help please*

I really need some advice PLEASE....I got a giant waxy tree frog today, about 10 hours ago. I brought him home and set up his new home, and he has not moved since I put him in there. I am getting really worried about him, I was reading that they can get stressed from a move like this. Does anyone know for sure, and will he be ok? Should I just leave him alone for awhile an see what happens, I dont know what to do..........


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## Abi-snail (Mar 2, 2010)

*Xenopus laevis spawning?*

I have a female Xenopus laevis. She's about 8 years old. A couple of times after changing the water she's spawned. Shortly afterwards she eats the spawn (so at least I don't have to clean it out). What's going on? Anyone else seen this?


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## gaz25 (May 2, 2008)

my dart frog keeps calling is he going to breed:mf_dribble::mf_dribble:


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