# Leopard Gecko sleeping uncovered on cold side of tank



## Samthegecko (Apr 25, 2017)

My leopard gecko Sam refuses to sleep in his hides, even if his basking light is off. He always sleeps in the corner of his tank that is furthest away from the basking light and heat pad. His temperatures are 95-98 on the hot side and 80-85 on his cool side. He is currently on reptile carpet (I am doing extensive research on different brands of coconut fiber before I switch him over) and has been eating, drinking and pooping normally. Not sure if this is normal or not


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## kymberley (Jun 8, 2012)

you hot side is too hot its temps should be between 90-91 

my gecko doesn't always sleep in a hide don't worry 

Also leopard gecko don't really need over head heat as the feel heat from their bellies to digest food... your heat mat should be no bigger than half the size of your vivarium . maybe get rid of the bulb and try the temps with just the heat mat plugged into a thermostat  IMO I would use the reptile carpet you are using please don't use any loose substrate that could be ingested and cause impaction 

if the light is for viewing purposes I would recommend this no heat just lighting

http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/day_and_night_led.php


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## Samthegecko (Apr 25, 2017)

kymberley said:


> you hot side is too hot its temps should be between 90-91
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I switched back to a low watt night bulb and he seems to be doing better. He's part albino so I think the bright light has been hurting his eyes. Someone told me on amother thread that my hot side should be between 95 and 100 which I thought was way too hot. I have a heat mat that just covers one corner of his tank


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## kymberley (Jun 8, 2012)

Samthegecko said:


> I switched back to a low watt night bulb and he seems to be doing better. He's part albino so I think the bright light has been hurting his eyes. Someone told me on amother thread that my hot side should be between 95 and 100 which I thought was way too hot. I have a heat mat that just covers one corner of his tank


aw that good ... I would recommend a bigger heat mat connected to a mat stat (thermostat) to give a good temp gradient  
95 -100 would be more bearded dragon temps defo not for a leo.

you could use a low wattage red bulb for viewing  this wouldn't hurt his eyes


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## Azastral (Jun 6, 2015)

Albinism is a genetic disorder where you either have it, or you dont.
There is no such thing as "part albino".

90f to 100f is NOT bearded dragon temperatures, but they are also not the temps for a Leo either.

You hot end should be roughly 90f (if using a basking lamp measure it from the basking spot), cool end 75f to 80f.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a basking lamp for them, but you will want something like a natural stone underneath it. It should be on timers to mimic day/night cycles and it would be well worth having it on a temp drop for an hour before turning off completely. (mimic dusk a bit) They are crepuscular, so they are active at dawn/dusk the most and sleep/hide during the day and night

The only correct bit of info i read was about how they take in heat, which is by resting on warm spots and absorbing heat.
Heat mats work, but are NOT the best/only way of doing it.

I am not sure what you mean by a "mat stat", lets just assume you meant a pulse thermostat as that would be the most suited to use with a heat mat. If theres a basking lamp in there then its likely to be a dimming thermostat in use and so might need changing.

Reptile carpet is a breeding ground for bacteria and is awful.
You would be much, much better off using lots of small stones, compacted soil/sand and large stones for sitting/warming up.

Leo's are from around pakistan, they have evolved to live in dry, dusty areas of scrub land, meaning dirt, stones, sand, grasses..... Its a warm, dry and bright environment with dark cold nights.
Theres a lot of information that would suggest low level UV is of benefit to them as well, and many people add a UV tube on a timer.

They will act as they need to to maintain body temp (which is why the OP's is hiding in the cool area, as the cool area is the right temps for a warm area)

Impaction is a topic you do not understand if you are claiming its the soil/sand substrate thats the risk. You should be far more focused on the diet you provide, the heat and maintaining hydration/water provision. Its when these arent being properly addressed that impaction can then become a risk.


Please stop adding to the huge amount of bad information thats already out there.


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## wilkinss77 (Sep 23, 2008)

kymberley said:


> you hot side is too hot its temps should be between 90-91
> 
> my gecko doesn't always sleep in a hide don't worry
> 
> ...


Not true about impaction, & leos need a loose substrate to dig in.



Azastral said:


> Albinism is a genetic disorder where you either have it, or you dont.
> There is no such thing as "part albino".
> 
> 90f to 100f is NOT bearded dragon temperatures, but they are also not the temps for a Leo either.
> ...


Spot on about impaction & about the natural environment of leo's- as I keep saying time & time again, it's largely a myth unless your husbandry isn't right.
I'm surprised you don't know what a mat stat is, though:Habistat Mat Stat: Reptiles | eBay


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## kymberley (Jun 8, 2012)

Azastral: 

I'm well aware of beardie temps.... my hot end reads 94 with BASKING TEMPS of 113


A mat stat thermostat is for a heat mat ... I use them

Reptile carpet is washable.

UV is not essential 

Any loose substrate is a risk IMO

you last comment was rather rude...


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## Samthegecko (Apr 25, 2017)

Azastral said:


> Albinism is a genetic disorder where you either have it, or you dont.
> There is no such thing as "part albino".
> 
> 90f to 100f is NOT bearded dragon temperatures, but they are also not the temps for a Leo either.
> ...


 As I stated in my orginal question I was doing research on other substrates to put him on, he is a rescue and wasnt treated the best by his previous owner and is scared of sand. He will either completely avoid it or if it's everywhere he will climb on top of his hide and not move until the sand is gone. Also I posted this thread weeks ago and I have switched him to a combination of Herptopia coconut fiber and small river stones. I took him to a friend that breeds Leo's and he told me my gecko is an albino patternless which translated to my brain as part albino as he doesn't have red eyes, my mistake. One last thing please stop arguing!


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## wilkinss77 (Sep 23, 2008)

kymberley said:


> Azastral:
> 
> I'm well aware of beardie temps.... my hot end reads 94 with BASKING TEMPS of 113
> 
> ...


They live on loose substrates in the wild with no danger to them, as do all terrestrial lizards.
Plus their instinct is to dig, which they cannot do on a solid flooring.
Millions of keepers use loose substrates with no issues.
Impaction is a myth unless you have bad husbandry- if everything is correct, ingested substrate will pass through the lizards' gut.


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## Samthegecko (Apr 25, 2017)

wilkinss77 said:


> kymberley said:
> 
> 
> > Azastral:
> ...


Since switching him to the coconuts fiber mix my gecko hasn't actually burrowed into it. He hasn't even shifted any of it around, he treats it just like his old carpet. He doesn't dig or scratch at it. He's been on it for 4 days now. Is it possible that due to him being rescued from an abusive home that he don't have that instinct to dig? Should I be concerned?


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## kymberley (Jun 8, 2012)

everyone has their own opinion about this - Impaction I really just wouldn't take the chance but hey ho that's my own personal opinion each to their own


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## Debbie1962 (Dec 5, 2008)

Not all geckos will dig they are all individuals. Mine are on sand and don't seem to dig but they have the substrate needed if they decide to do so.


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