# Sticky  Constructing a GLASS vivarium Step by Step



## DarrylLG

This will be available in PDF format when complete.

*DIY Glass Open Front Vivarium*
*By Darryl Le Grange*

Introduction to Building Your Own Vivarium
If you want to try, building an open front vivarium from scratch, you will find this a challenge and satisfying as well. I have attempted to try and document this process as accurately as possible, from tips, materials list, pre-assembly instructions, and complete step-by-step directions on how to construct an open front vivarium from 4 mm glass. 
Tips on Working with Glass
• Plan ahead: Prepare good schematic drawings, before cutting the glass. >> See Cut Size Calculator
• Insure a correct fit by using accurate measurements. 
• I construct my vivariums with the two side pieces of glass and the back piece to fit on the outside of the base and the front door strut set on top of the bottom base sheet of glass. >> See Panel Placements Diagram 
• Have a professional glazier cut and prepare your glass if you do not feel comfortable with cutting glass. 
• Lightly rubbing down all the edges on the newly cut glass, with the emery cloth helps prevent small chips and you cutting yourself.)
• If at any time during construction you have trouble with the tape not sticking to the glass, just clean the area with some acetone on a paper towel and try again
• Use a glass pencil or a Marker pen to note the orientation on each piece of glass.
• Drill any holes for drainage and misting systems before assembly
Materials List 
The glass components consist of 1 bottom, 1 back, and 2 sides, 2 top pieces of glass, 1 door strut, 1 retaining lip and 2 doors. (Optional – 1 False Base)
You will also need the following items to construct your vivarium. 
• Sturdy, flat and non-abrasive surface to work on
• Single edged razor blades
• Acetone or methylated spirits
• A non-toxic 100% silicone sealant (Aquarium Grade) 
• A roll of paper towels. 
• A Glass pencil or marker pen. 
• A roll of duct tape or a good quality masking tape
• Emery cloth or silicone carbide sandpaper.
• “E” profiled plastic (4mm) strips (Door Channels)
• “L” profiled plastic angle strips
• Fine Stainless Steel Mesh
• Small block of natural bees wax 
• Good pair of kitchen scissors
• Thin latex or similar gloves
• Small Right-Angle or Engineers square
• 1x Large wooden Block or cloth covered Brick
• Small amount of dishwashing soap and water
• Small Polystyrene blocks (for optional False Base)

Pre-Assembly Preparations
• The door strut has an arch cut out of it, you can cut this free-hand or use a template, otherwise have this piece of glass cut by your local glazier.
• Once the pieces of glass are cut, using the emery cloth or silicone carbide sandpaper, buff all the raw edges of the glass just enough to take off the sharpness. 
• Clean all the glass pieces joint areas and edges (any area where silicone will be applied) with acetone or methylated spirits.
• Cut strips of tape, at least 16 – 18 pieces, about 120mm long. Stick these to a clean surface, which the tape won't stick too much to, with at least half of the tape hanging freely. If you require more tape, cut these before installing another piece. 
BEFORE you start to assemble your vivarium, it is important to know in what sequence the glass sheet are assembled. 
The sequence is as follows:
1. Base
2. Back
3. Left Side
4. Inside Retaining Lip
5. Door Strut
6. False Base (Optional)
7. Right Side
8. Top “Back”
9. Top “Front”
10. Stainless Steel Mesh
11. Plastic Angle
12. Top Vent retainer strips
13. Door Channels
14. Doors
If you are going to install the optional false bottom, you can cut an arch (See Door Strut) in the bottom of the back piece, to allow access under the false base.
As each piece of glass is installed, you will need to apply a thin and adequate line of silicone to each inside edges of sheets that are being joined.
DO NOT wipe off any excess silicone that might squeeze to the outside edges of the glass. This can be cleaned up or trimmed later on, once the silicone has fully cured.
Step-by-Step Assembly Instructions
Prepare for assembly, by arranging your glass pieces in the order that you will need them and all other tools and materials within easy and comfortable reach. Make sure you know what the orientation of each piece is (use a marker to write on each piece) N.B. Keep all writing and marking at least 25mm from edges to be siliconed.
Example:








Ensure that your work surface is flat, sturdy, non-abrasive and that you have sufficient room, so that you can easily reach everywhere on the vivarium, once you start working.
1. BASE 
• Use a marker pen to draw a parallel line, 45mm from the front edge of the base.
• Then turn the base piece over, so that this line is now on the underside.









• Stick X6 pieces of tape on the underside of the base, with ½ of the tape still showing. (x2 pieces on the back edge and x2 pieces on each side edge), the sticky side should now be facing up.










2. BACK
• Have the block of wood or cloth covered brick ready to support the back piece of glass.
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom inside edge of the back piece.









• Carefully align the back piece to the outside back edge of the base.
• Press the back with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Use the Block or brick to support the back in the upright position.
• Use the Right angle or Square to check that the two pieces of glass are at right angles to each other.
• Fold the x2 pieces of tape upwards and stick them to the back; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
















Tip: This step is much easier to do with an assistant to hold the front glass pane upright and in place while you complete installation of the first side piece in the next step.

3. SIDE (Left-Hand)
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and back inside edges of the side piece.








• Carefully align the side piece to the outside side edges of the base and back.
• Press the side piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Fold the x2 pieces of tape upwards and stick them to the side; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
• Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the back and side joint, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place and in the upright position.









4. INSIDE RETAINING LIP
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and left hand edges of the retaining lip piece.








• Carefully align the retaining piece to the line drawn on the underside of the base.
• The retaining piece should be placed just behind the line and against the left side piece.
• Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Use the Right-angle or Square to check that the retraining piece is at right angles to the base.



















5. DOOR STRUT
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and left hand edges of the door strut.








• Carefully align the door strut to the top front edge of the base.
• The door strut should be placed on the base front edge and against the left side piece inside front edge.
• Press the piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.


















6. SIDE (Right-Hand)
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the side edges of the Door Strut and the retaining lip pieces.









• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the bottom and back inside edges of the side piece. 









• Carefully align the side piece to the outside side edges of the base and back.
• Press the side piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Fold the x2 pieces of tape upwards and stick them to the side; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
• Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the back and side joint, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place and in the upright position.










7. With most of the pieces in place and the vivarium constructed, run an adequate solid line of silicone into the joint areas on the inside, then run your finger over the silicone from one end to the other of each seam, preferably in one continuous motion, to smooth the silicone down and force it into the joint areas.
Tip: Dip your finger into a little water and dishwashing soap, before smoothing down the joints. (10 drops of soap in a glass of water)


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## DarrylLG

8. TOP “BACK”
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the back and side bottom edges of the top-back piece.









• Carefully align the top-back piece to the top edges of the base and sides.
• Press the top-back piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the back and top joint, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.
• Use x2 pieces of tape and stick them across the side and top joints, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.











9. TOP “FRONT”
• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the side bottom edges of the top-front piece.









• Carefully align the top-front piece to the top edges of the sides.
• Press the top-front piece with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
• Use x2 pieces of tape on each side and stick them across the side and top joints; this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.










10. With last two pieces in place, run an adequate solid line of silicone into these last few joint on the inside and then run your finger over the silicone from one end to the other of each seam, preferably in one continuous motion, to smooth the silicone down and force it into the joint areas.
Tip: Dip your finger into a little water and dishwashing soap, before smoothing down the joints. (10 drops of soap in a glass of water)
11. *Allow the silicone to cure for 24 hours.*


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## DarrylLG

12. BOTTOM VENT
• Measure the distance on the inside of the left and right sides above the door strut.
• Repeat this for the above the retaining lip.








• Now cut two sections of the “L” shaped profile to fit each of section.
















• Measure the distance from the front of the door strut to the back of the retaining lip, on the left-hand side.
• Repeat this for the right-hand side.








These measurements are used to determine final size of the Stainless Steel mesh for the vent to the correct size.








• Use masking tape to cover both sides of the stainless steel mesh (stick this wider than your measurements)
• Use a marker pen to draw out your measurements on the tape.
• Cut along these lines.
Tip: By using the masking tape, it makes it easier to draw lines in the mesh. The masking tape also reduces stray stainless steel wire splinters flying about or puncturing your hands. The finished cut is a lot neater as well.

• Check that the newly cut mesh fits over the retaining lip and door strut.
• Make any adjustments if required.








• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the top edges of both the retaining lip and the door strut.









• Place the stainless steel mesh back into its correct position.
• The “L” profile sections are now placed over the edges 
• Press the “L” profile sections with a light, but firm pressure to bed them and the stainless steel mesh into the silicon.









• Use x6 pieces of tape and stick them across the top and down the sides of the strut and lip, this will assist in keeping everything in the correct place.


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## DarrylLG

13. TOP VENT (PART 1)
• Measure the width of the top gap on the inside of the left and right sides.








• Measure the length of the top gap on the outside of the left and right sides.










These measurements are used to determine the final size of the Stainless Steel mesh for the vent.








• The total width of the mesh for the top vent should be the width of the gap, plus 20mm. 
• This will give an additional 10mm flange on each long edge, secure the mesh to the top of the viv.
• The total length of the mesh is equal to the total outside width of the viv. 








• The four corners are cut to allow proper placement.
• These notches are 10mm x the width of the glass used for the sides.








Tip: By using the masking tape, it makes it easier to draw lines in the mesh. The masking tape also reduces stray stainless steel wire splinters flying about or puncturing your hands. The finished cut is a lot neater as well.
1. Use masking tape to cover both sides of the stainless steel mesh (stick this wider than your measurements)
2. Use a marker pen to draw out your measurements on the tape.
3. Cut along these lines.
4. Use masking tape to cover both sides of the stainless steel mesh (stick this wider than your measurements)
• Now cut two sections of the “L” shaped profile to fit each of section.

















• Check that the newly cut mesh fits over the retaining lip and door strut.
• The small tabs on the ends of the mesh sit on top of the sides and the 10mm flanges, fit under the top pieces of the viv.
• Make any adjustments if required.

• Apply a thin but sufficient bead of silicon along the top edges of both the retaining lip and the door strut.








• Place the stainless steel mesh back into its correct position.
• The “L” profile sections are now placed over the edges 
• Press the “L” profile sections with a light, but firm pressure to bed them and the stainless steel mesh into the silicon.









• Use a pieces of tape and stick them across the underside of the mesh and top peices of glass, this will prevent the mesh from sagging while the silicon is curing on the edge strips.










14. Allow the silicone to cure for 24 hours.

15. HALFWAY
• Remove all the tape.
• All that is left to do is the 2nd part of the top vent and the installation of the sliding doors.


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## DarrylLG

16. TOP VENT (PART 2)
• Carefully turn the viv upside down.









• Measure the width of the top of the viv, inside the sides.









• Cut x2 strips of 2mm glass, 15mm wide.
• The length should be just short of the top inside measurement.









• Apply a bead of silicon along the centre of each strip.









• Place the two strips (silicon side down) over the edges of the stainless steel mesh.
• Align the edges of the strips with the edges of the top vent of the viv.









• Press the two strips with a light, but firm pressure to bed them and the stainless steel mesh into the silicon
• Place a block or Cloth covered brick over the strips to weight them down.
17. Allow the silicone to cure for 4 hours.
These strips seal and protect the edges of the stainless steel mesh on the top mesh









18. DOORS (Tracks)
This stage requires two different types of “E” profile.
1. Bottom Profile (Shallow).
2. Top Profile (Deep), this is about twice as deep as the bottom profile.
The profile you use should match the thickness of glass, that you are going to use for the doors.









• Measure and cut a length of top (deeper) profile to fit under the top inside of the front of the viv.









• Check that the newly cut top profile fits in the top front of the viv, with abot a 1mm play on eack side.
• Make any adjustments if required.
• Apply a bead of silicon along the centre of the top profile.









• Carefully align the top track profile to the bottom front edge of the top and sides.

















• Press the profile with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.


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## DarrylLG

20. BOTTOM TRACK
• Measure and cut a length of bottom (shallower) profile to fit on-top “L” profile of the door strut, in the front of the viv.








• Check that the newly cut bottom profile fits, with about a 1mm play on each side.
• Make any adjustments if required.
• Apply a bead of silicon along the centre of the front “L” profile above the door strut.









• Carefully align the bottom track profile to the front edge of the sides.










• Press the profile with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
21. Allow the silicone to cure for 4 -6 hours before trying to fit the doors.


22. DOORS
To work out the dimensions of the sliding doors, the following measurement are required to be taklen.
1. The internal width of the viv at the front.








2. The height between the top and bottom tracks.








3. The depth of the top track.










• Calculating the width if the two sliding doors:
1. Divide the internal width by 2.
2. Add 5mm to the above result.
3. The final result is the width measurement for each of the two sliding doors
The 5mm added to each door, result in the overlap, when the doors are placed in the tracks.
• Calculating the height if the two sliding doors:
1. Add the depth of the top track and the height between the top and bottom tracks.
2. Subtract 2mm to the above result.
3. The final result is the height measurement for each of the two sliding doors
The 2mm deduction allows just enough clearance when lifting the doors in and out of the tracks.


23. FITTING THE DOORS
• Before fitting the doors, make sure that all the edges have been rubbed down properly.
• Pay a little more attention to the corners of each door, ensure that they are rounded off and smooth.
• Take a small block of pure bees wax and lightly rub it along the top and bottom edges of each door.
• Check that there are no obstructions in the tracks.
The doors are fitted in a sequence; this sequence is used in reverse when you want to remove the doors.
A. Hold the First door by the sides.
B. Insert the top edges into the top track channel furthest from the front.
C. Lightly push the door all the way, up into the track.









D. Gently swing the bottom of the door over bottom track.
E. The door should just clear the bottom track.









F. Position the door over the furthest channel in the bottom track.
G. Carefully lower the door in the channel.









H. The door should now sit in the both the top and bottom track and slide side to side.









Repeat the above steps to insert the other door into the channel closest to the front.









To remove the doors, this process is followed in reverse.

24. At this stage you have a complete working viv.
25. But there are a few additions that can be made to improve the ways that the doors seal.
26. DOOR SIDE CHANNELS
27. DOOR OVERLAP GASKET


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## Avpl

Wow, this is amazing! Must have taken you a long time! :2thumb:


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## jimmythetramp

wow! thats amazing! thank you for dedicating so much time and effort to making this guide, very useful, tempted to gibe it a go now myself :2thumb:


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## ollie1

STICKY PLEASE!:2thumb::no1:


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## eddygecko

Incredibly well written guide. Make it a sticky someone!


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## bumbleyjoe

:gasp: Wow thats amazing! :notworthy: Wouldnt feel comfortable working with that much glass <shudders> as i would end up breaking it but im sure alot of people will find this really helpful! Thanks for putting so much time and effort into creating this! :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:

Deff needs to become a sticky!!!!


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## EsotericForest

Very cool. Is there a total cost estimate on this?


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## DarrylLG

EsotericForest said:


> Very cool. Is there a total cost estimate on this?


The total cost is dependant on the measurements of the vivarium to be constructed.

I have written a software calculator that will work out all the cut sizes for the glass and the cost, once you have imputted the size the vivarium required.

Darryl


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## My_SnAkE_rUlEs

omg that is epic!
i love the front bottom vent, that is so kool, if i ever make a vivarium i know what set of instructions im going to use =]


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## 55ebailey

Amazin I was looking at building a wooden viv for some future crestie additions but now looking at using this guide, the OH will be pleased as it will take me longer to save for the glass rather than cheap and wood.:2thumb:


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## 55ebailey

Do you need any special type of glass for this (toughened?) and what thickness would be best to use?


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## DarrylLG

55ebailey said:


> Do you need any special type of glass for this (toughened?) and what thickness would be best to use?


Standard 4 or 6mm float glass is used, the thickness is dependant on the overall dimensions.

I have always used 4mm glass unless the vivarium that I build is either wider or taller tham 650mm. In which case I will 6mm glass, but only for the base, sides and back.

Darryl


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## 55ebailey

DarrylLG said:


> Standard 4 or 6mm float glass is used, the thickness is dependant on the overall dimensions.
> 
> I have always used 4mm glass unless the vivarium that I build is either wider or taller tham 650mm. In which case I will 6mm glass, but only for the base, sides and back.
> 
> Darryl


 
Thanks time to start looking for a local glass merchant then:2thumb:


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## DarrylLG

I also have a design with a front that slopes backwards. This design is for Phalsuma, the sloped front prevent them from fouling the the front glass.


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## bleepy

Wow, this absolutely has to be a sticky! :no1:


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## nezzer01

hi thats brill what you have done thinking of trying it out when i get a bit of time hows the pdf going:no1:


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## DarrylLG

The PDF's are complete.

Just drop me an PM.


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## barry_turnbull

excellent work, i really must have a go


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## nezzer01

*pdf*

hi 
just like to say the pdf is fantastic :no1:
will have to give it a go when i get time :no1:
thanxs:no1:


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## Janine00

DarrylLG said:


> The total cost is dependant on the measurements of the vivarium to be constructed.
> 
> I have written a software calculator that will work out all the cut sizes for the glass and the cost, once you have imputted the size the vivarium required.
> 
> Darryl


Any chance of sharing that calculator - I would like to have a go at making a custom glass viv to fit in the middle gap of the stack I have to replace the exo I have there at the moment?
Thanks... J


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## mrhoyo

Any pics of the finished thing?


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## steven_law

DarrylLG said:


> This will be available in PDF format when complete.



did this ever make it to a .pdf format???


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## OrigamiB

Where can I buy the strips of 'L' angled plastic? I have found the 'E' strips on ebay but finding it hard to get 'L' strips


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## DarrylLG

You can purchase the "L" profile frome most good Hardware suppliers.
e.g. B&Q, Homebase...


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## Paul_MTS

Do you have any pictures of your finished article?

I'm familiar with a glass cutter but never realised I would be able to cut arches with it, is it the same technique in cutting curves or do you have to do something different?


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## DarrylLG

After many requests regarding, how I go about cutting a curve or arch in the door strut, I put together this brief guide.
I hope that you will find this helpfull.
As an added note, this process can also be used to cut most curves in glass. ;-) 

*Cutting an Arched Glass Door Strut*
These are instructions to cut an arched glass door strut, in a European style vivarium. This same method is used to cut the arch in the back panel of the vivarium when installing a false base.
In order to be able to cut the same curve or arch constantly, it is advised that you use a template.









As I construct vivariums of different widths, I could cut a separate template for each new width vivarium that I construct, but that would cost me a lot of wasted time.
I designed and made a template that I could adjust to the required width.








This template is constructed from 6mm Phenolic sheet stock, so it very stable and will warp or be affected by temperature or humidity.
• You may choose to make a one-off template, if you are only going to construct a single vivarium or a few of the same size.
• A template for a one-off can be made from 6mm MDF, which easily cut and sanded to shape.





*CUTTING THE ARCH*
You will need to work on a stable and flat surface; if the surface is not flat the glass may not shear or be cut as desired.
Cover the work surface with several layers of newspaper. The newspaper serves two important functions.
1. It protects from scratches and stops the glass from sliding around with working.
2. The papers also provide just enough give under the glass, to be able to carry-out this “Cutting” procedure.
• Carefully place your template on your glass strip.
• The template should be aligned in the centre from left to right








• Press down on the template firmly but gently, to ensure the template does not move.
• Use your class cutter to score a single continuous and consistent line on the inside of the template.
*N.B. DO NOT TRY AND SCORE THE LINE TWICE*
• You should be left with a single continuous arched line, as below.









• Turn the section of glass over, so that the scored line now is located on the under side.
• Ensure that there are no foreign objects under the glass or newspaper before proceeding.


*N.B. DO NOT RUSH THE FOLLOWING STEP*
• Wear gloves.
• Use your thumb and use a firm pressure to push down in the centre of the line. (see location of red dot in diagram below)
• Remember the un-scored side of the glass should be face upward; this is the surface you should applying pressure to.
• The glass will start to split along the score line.
• Slowly push down on the ends of the split and follow the line away from the centre in the direct of the arrows.
• As you work away from the centre, the split will run to the edge of the glass.








• When the split ahs run the entire length of the line, carefully turn the glass, back over.
• Repeat the above process on the score side of the glass.

• The waste section should now be free of the arch.








• Using emery cloth or silicone carbide sandpaper, buff all the raw edges of the glass just enough to take off the sharpness


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## desparza28

Very nice i would love to make one of these some day.


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## Carnuss

I would end up making a complete b*lls up of it and spending more trying to fix it then end up giving up and just buying one. For those with the will it'd probaby save them a bit of money and something to be proud of. Either way very good guide, good of you to spend your time making it and sharing it for free. :thumb:


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## Amphibizoid

Wow awsome guide. Defo giving this a go...

Are you going to share that calculator of yours?

Great work..

Will PM you for a PDF i think


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## brian.a

must say this looks awsome

and from my point of view very easy and very very cheap

im a glass cutter by trade and work in 1 of the biggest glass companies in northern ireland so the glass is gonna be FREE HAHA
Will only have to buy the L and E strips and some mesh, i will also drill hole's for vents on the top instead of the mesh strip
here was me thinking of trying my hand at making a wooden viv, no more wood i will make mine from black glass to match all the other shelves and tv stands in our house, with only the doors in 4mm clear.
brilliant thread by the way:2thumb:


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## djdobro

Really nice tutorial. I am going to make one vivarium of my own. Does anyone have the Calculator he was talking about? I cant seem to contact the fellow. It would really help if someone can send it to me.


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## steven_law

djdobro said:


> Really nice tutorial. I am going to make one vivarium of my own. Does anyone have the Calculator he was talking about? I cant seem to contact the fellow. It would really help if someone can send it to me.


If you have any luck let me know as I've tried and found nothing


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## fuzzzzbuzzzz

Amazing, must of taken hours!!!


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## About-Snakes.com

You can't get more analytic step by step guide than this.


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## motorhead

a cracking thread!!


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## mchiareli

someone had built it? are there recommended sizes?


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## Luke

will be interesting to see an actual finished product, in experience glass is not the easiest to work with, and unless really experienced will not look as accurate and pretty as the diagrams are.

All in all its an excellent design but again without this calculator it makes it 10 times more difficult than it need be, so that takes the ease factor out of it, thus leading to diagrams being as effective as an ashtray on a motorbike :lol2:


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## djdobro

I have made at least 5 like these, i will post a few pictures later these days. Here is one recent:


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## Luke

djdobro said:


> I have made at least 5 like these, i will post a few pictures later these days. Here is one recent:
> 
> [URL="http://s20.postimage.org/h3iftvgex/imgp3088u.jpg"]image[/URL][URL="http://s20.postimage.org/b54mjmxg9/imgp3092a.jpg"]image[/URL][URL="http://s20.postimage.org/eap89ug2h/imgp3089v.jpg"]image[/URL][URL="http://s20.postimage.org/y2re94rmh/imgp3087c.jpg"]image[/URL]


 
very nice indeed, well done


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## pinklerose

Any chance to buy it somwhere? I don't have enough skills to make one.


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## LazerBen

This looks really cool, Any indication of viv size vs material cost?

I am looking to build something 4'x2'x3' to which i will add a divider to make 2 vivs of 2'x2'x3' each. Should I be looking at using the 6mm glass for such large sheets or even go to toughened glass? I am guessing that could get expensive.


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## Robbrown 52

DarrylLG said:


> 20. BOTTOM TRACK
> • Measure and cut a length of bottom (shallower) profile to fit on-top “L” profile of the door strut, in the front of the viv.
> image
> • Check that the newly cut bottom profile fits, with about a 1mm play on each side.
> • Make any adjustments if required.
> • Apply a bead of silicon along the centre of the front “L” profile above the door strut.
> 
> image
> • Carefully align the bottom track profile to the front edge of the sides.
> 
> image
> 
> • Press the profile with a light, but firm pressure to bed it into the silicon.
> 21. Allow the silicone to cure for 4 -6 hours before trying to fit the doors.
> 
> 
> 22. DOORS
> To work out the dimensions of the sliding doors, the following measurement are required to be taklen.
> 1. The internal width of the viv at the front.
> image
> 2. The height between the top and bottom tracks.
> image
> 3. The depth of the top track.
> 
> image
> 
> • Calculating the width if the two sliding doors:
> 1. Divide the internal width by 2.
> 2. Add 5mm to the above result.
> 3. The final result is the width measurement for each of the two sliding doors
> The 5mm added to each door, result in the overlap, when the doors are placed in the tracks.
> • Calculating the height if the two sliding doors:
> 1. Add the depth of the top track and the height between the top and bottom tracks.
> 2. Subtract 2mm to the above result.
> 3. The final result is the height measurement for each of the two sliding doors
> The 2mm deduction allows just enough clearance when lifting the doors in and out of the tracks.
> 
> 
> 23. FITTING THE DOORS
> • Before fitting the doors, make sure that all the edges have been rubbed down properly.
> • Pay a little more attention to the corners of each door, ensure that they are rounded off and smooth.
> • Take a small block of pure bees wax and lightly rub it along the top and bottom edges of each door.
> • Check that there are no obstructions in the tracks.
> The doors are fitted in a sequence; this sequence is used in reverse when you want to remove the doors.
> A. Hold the First door by the sides.
> B. Insert the top edges into the top track channel furthest from the front.
> C. Lightly push the door all the way, up into the track.
> image
> 
> D. Gently swing the bottom of the door over bottom track.
> E. The door should just clear the bottom track.
> image
> 
> F. Position the door over the furthest channel in the bottom track.
> G. Carefully lower the door in the channel.
> image
> 
> H. The door should now sit in the both the top and bottom track and slide side to side.
> image
> 
> Repeat the above steps to insert the other door into the channel closest to the front.
> image
> 
> To remove the doors, this process is followed in reverse.
> 
> 24. At this stage you have a complete working viv.
> 25. But there are a few additions that can be made to improve the ways that the doors seal.
> 26. DOOR SIDE CHANNELS
> 27. DOOR OVERLAP GASKET


Thank you for taking the time to put such a clear and detailed assembly instructions together makes it look very simple :no1::no1::no1:


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## chris74

There's an application available for calculating different types of vivs, if you download the demo at TerraBygg and look at the default settings, that viv should be about 32x20x20 (the application measurements are in millimeters since it's european).


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## Trunks91

Amazing guide, looks 100 times easier to build than my kids Ikea table hahaha


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