# New Leopard Gecko owner :) couple of q's



## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Hi all,

Brand new to this forum so firstly.....hi :2thumb:

I have read a few threads but can't seem to find the answers I'm looking for so I thought you guys could help.

I'm just about to buy my first ever leopard gecko tomorrow and can't wait to get stuck in. I ended up buying a leopard gecko kit from pets at home as linked here

Leopard Gecko Kit by Pets at Home (Available in Store Only) | Pets at Home

As you can see, it's 45x45x45 with 2 x exo terra sun glo 25w bulbs. We've fitted the heat mat to the rear of the tank in the middle-ish and then we've put a heat rock just to the left of that. I know some people don't like heat rocks but I've read the independent reports and think I'm willing to use one (all things considered)

To the right of the heat mat is a hide cave with damp moss. To the front of the tank on the right is a water dish and mealworm dish. To the left front is a hide cave with nothing under it.

The digital temp probe currently reads 25 celcius. The substrate it reptile bark. 

We've bought some calcium with D3 but we don't plan on putting it in a dish inside the viv. Instead, we were going to dust the crickets before putting them inside. 

Firstly, does all of the above sound ok? Second.. How long should I leave the lights on? I plan on using a timer. Third.. Does the heat mat and rock stay on permanent? Fourth.. How often do I change or re wet the moss?

Lots of questions... But hey, thats what the newbie forum is for I guess:whistling2:

Thanks in advance


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## davy27 (Jul 17, 2011)

Hi and welcome lots off good people here all willing to help and I think what I'm going to put is correct

1. The viv you have is only for a baby to sub adult gecko
2. Don't use the heat rock
3. The heat mat needs to go to one side to give the correct temps from hot to cold
4. Always advisable to put that small calcium in the viv you will also need to dust once every four days with nutrabol
5. You have not said anything about a mat stat which you will need to control the temp of the heat mat also would advise a digital temperature and humidity probe


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Didn't know if this was in the right area or not. Just re posted this in the lizard section. Mods can delete this thread if needed. Thanks


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Hi Davy thanks for the reply. Re the calcium... So are you saying I need to put some in the tank in a dish? And dust what with nutrabol?

Sorry... I've never heard of a stat mat


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

check this out on heat rocks..

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/lizards/942123-heat-rocks-hold-back-flaming.html


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## SmexyHerps (Dec 14, 2012)

Another thing, I would be careful with the reptile bark because this could cause impaction (Leo eats it) so an alternative is repti carpet which is what I use for mine 
And, for the moist hide just buy a sprayer(they must sell them at pets at home?!) and spray it with water whenever it dries up


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## davy27 (Jul 17, 2011)

No probs mate this is what the site is for you have to dust the live food with it it helps the leo to absorb the calcium and also gives different vitamins also still don't use the heat rock proven to burn reps search it on the forum someone put a link with pics before not nice also search care sheets on here they are some of the best you will find and you will really need a mat stat they are only about 20 quid and worth every penny good lick and don't forget to put up pics when you get it


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## davy27 (Jul 17, 2011)

(Luck) even lol


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks again... we already bought that viv so I suppose we're stuck with it for the mo! I'm sure we'll end up upgrading if we really take to it.

Good point about the reptile bark but this was sold to us from a separate retailer and came recommended instead of sand. He said that they ate sand but bark should be ok! We've already put it in the bottom of the viv now!!

I'm actually thinking of not using the heat mat and only using the heat rock. I know that many of you will disagree but we really love the heat rock 

can you explain the calcium thing please... I don't really get what you're going on about. We were just going to dust crickets. Do we need to do more than that?


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## Rottalma (Dec 20, 2012)

Big Lewis said:


> Thanks again... we already bought that viv so I suppose we're stuck with it for the mo! I'm sure we'll end up upgrading if we really take to it.
> 
> Good point about the reptile bark but this was sold to us from a separate retailer and came recommended instead of sand. He said that they ate sand but bark should be ok! We've already put it in the bottom of the viv now!!
> 
> ...


People will be happy to help you if you actually take advice. Any form of unmoderated heat in a tank is a bad idea, between lizard injury and in rare cases, fires, it simply isn't worth it. You will have a lot of people talking down to you without thermostats and the like, you know that feeling you get when you see someone mistreating an animal? That is tantamount to how people feel about people thinking the risks are acceptable. In this section we are expected to remain civil to new people and i am attempting to but it is very hard to put a point across without seeming unpleasant. 

Hope you pay attention to what is being said, please consider using the mat and a stat, or at least rigging the rock to a stat if you must use it.


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

I take your advice and greatfully. I've kept marine fish for a few years and the same level of care has to be applied to them as well. I don't take the issue lightly, just enquiring to see what options are available. 

In my experience of posting on forums, many people follow previous advice that others have shared but many people do so without any personal experience in that specific area. Not saying that this is the case here..

I was only asking for advice which is generally what these forums are set up for. I didn't mean to offend and am currently looking into a thermostat for the heat rock (if there is such a thing)


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## jonny2xx4 (Apr 7, 2013)

Firstly the calcium thing is very important, you dust your live food witch by the way I'd not use crickets as they bite and annoy your gecko. I'd use locusts,meal worms and wax worms. You can dust them and gut load them. But you also need to have a bottle cap full of calcium dust in the viv at all times. Secondly please don't use something that you like the look of, your gecko will need a heat mat on one side of the tank with a mat stat attached to it to regulate the temp. Otherwise your gecko will either get to hot or not be hot enough. The warmer end of the tank should have a moist/humid hide bike full of either stagnum moss or damp tissue paper. The best and most cheap substrate if found is also kitchen towel. I then have another hide on the warm side and the another hide on the cooler side. I'd also put your food and water dishes on the cool side. Leopard geckos only need a basic set up as long as temps are correct. Also when you get you gecko give it some time to settle in before harassing it with live food and to much handling give it 24hours at least. Good luck with you leopard gecko. I happen if helped with advice. Please buy a book and read up too though : victory:


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## Rottalma (Dec 20, 2012)

Big Lewis said:


> I take your advice and greatfully. I've kept marine fish for a few years and the same level of care has to be applied to them as well. I don't take the issue lightly, just enquiring to see what options are available.
> 
> In my experience of posting on forums, many people follow previous advice that others have shared but many people do so without any personal experience in that specific area. Not saying that this is the case here..
> 
> I was only asking for advice which is generally what these forums are set up for. I didn't mean to offend and am currently looking into a thermostat for the heat rock (if there is such a thing)


As i have never used a rock i can only assume you would buy a matstat (on/off thermostat will do it) and place the probe on the rock (assuming heat is given off evenly by the rock, which you can check with a digital thermometer). This is a lot of if's and assumptions i know but i am just trying to reduce the chance of injury. 

The problem to an extent is if you run into heating problems, feeding problems, lethargy and so on down the line, people will be unable to advise you if you use and unconventional heat method (the rock).

I have no lizards of my own but have involvement with skinks and boring dragons on a nigh on daily basis. So i am no expert, i just know lizards can suffer in the same way snakes can by poor heating.

May i ask why you prefer the rock over the mat when most are advising otherwise? Is it an aesthetic standpoint?


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks Jonny,

I'll be avoiding crickets then! I did read about that but thought it was only the brown crickets that nipped?

Whatever I use, I'll be dusting them and leaving a small dish of calcium in the viv.. thanks

I'm defo buying a thermostat so thanks for the advice from everyone on that. If i can find one for the heat rock I'll go for that. If I can't I'll just use the heat mat.

I'm going to rearrange a couple of things in the morning. I'll put the moist hide on the same side as the warm mat/rock. I'll move the cool hide over to the same side as the food and water.

I've already got a bag of moss so I'll use that until it runs out.

Can you please confirm what temp is too hot and what is too cold please. I know that 25 in the warm area and 20 in the cool is accepted... or have I been misinformed?


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## Rottalma (Dec 20, 2012)

Big Lewis said:


> Thanks Jonny,
> 
> I'll be avoiding crickets then! I did read about that but thought it was only the brown crickets that nipped?
> 
> ...


Care sheets are all over, look through 4-5 until you reach a consensus, as i don't keep them i wouldn't like to hazard a guess and thanks for understanding the importance on moderating heat sources.


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Rottalma said:


> As i have never used a rock i can only assume you would buy a matstat (on/off thermostat will do it) and place the probe on the rock (assuming heat is given off evenly by the rock, which you can check with a digital thermometer). This is a lot of if's and assumptions i know but i am just trying to reduce the chance of injury.
> 
> The problem to an extent is if you run into heating problems, feeding problems, lethargy and so on down the line, people will be unable to advise you if you use and unconventional heat method (the rock).
> 
> ...


Thanks... I think that visually it looks very good. I also read the thread that I posted the link to and found that the OP recommends them to a degree. He finds that most people advise not to use them on the back of other people's advice. most of that advice is from horror stories of old.

I can't say whether this is true because I've only been reading up on this subject for a few weeks. I suppose it's difficult to believe that they would make a product that would cause damage to the animal in this day in age without something being done about it.

The product description states that it auto cuts off at 50 degrees celcius. This seems very hot...hence my reason for the answer in my previous post. Not sure about the temperature on the heat mats?


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Rottalma said:


> Care sheets are all over, look through 4-5 until you reach a consensus, as i don't keep them i wouldn't like to hazard a guess and thanks for understanding the importance on moderating heat sources.


totally understand. Like I said... I read up on marine fish for over a year before even enquiring about a tank!!

The problem with the care sheets that I've read is that they can sometimes be hypocritical of each other. Up to date advice is always the best way IMHO


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## jonny2xx4 (Apr 7, 2013)

25/32c Will be fine I always keep mine at the higher end just because it's my prferance. A mat stat is a really good way of maintaining the temp.


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks.. some differing advice on top temp here

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/lizards/950407-just-what-ideal-warm-side.html

My cool side will be around 23 degrees. Is that ok?


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## Rottalma (Dec 20, 2012)

Big Lewis said:


> totally understand. Like I said... I read up on marine fish for over a year before even enquiring about a tank!!
> 
> The problem with the care sheets that I've read is that they can sometimes be hypocritical of each other. Up to date advice is always the best way IMHO


Different animals cope in different situations, one sheet being wrong could mean their Gecko was a spazz. Most people call royal pythons fussy eaters, mine came from a bloke whose cold end was room temperature and his hot end a good few degrees below commonly advised. End result is, my royal is fussier now that i have efficient heating than when she was a few degrees low on a heat mat. Not saying it doesn't matter, the lower temps likely meant poorer digestion and the like but just saying it is not just leopard geckos that are confusing. Follow a common temp and adjust a little if the animals are "off". 

Leos are regarded as hardy so a degree or two won't be the end of the world, but obviously strive for the best.


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## davy27 (Jul 17, 2011)

Yeh you just have to dust your live food four days calcium one day nutrabol if you use the heat rock on it own it would not help your moist hide the damp hide uses the heat from the heat mate humidity rises in the hide and keeps the moss damp for longer this in turn is used to aid shedding of the gecko any problems please don't hesitate to pm me I would make your reptile keeping more enjoyable if you have a stress free gecko


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Sounds like great advice but I suppose I want it to be as comfortable for the leo as possible. The current ambient temp is 25 degress or 77 farenheit. This seems a little cool does it not? I know the hot spot should be around 32 to 34 degrees and the cool maybe 20 to 23 degrees. I suppose 25 is stuck in the middle.

I just wanted to check that my temps were ok?


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## jonny2xx4 (Apr 7, 2013)

Very good temp advice right there mate. It's no exact set rule as long as you are in the average of what you've been told you'll do ok. Bit like I say just keep it as close as you can to the temps you got the gecko at and don't expect it to eat for at least 24hours of getting it home it may need time to settle. Watch animal is different. Leopard geckos are hardy in comparison to some reptiles.


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

davy27 said:


> Yeh you just have to dust your live food four days calcium one day nutrabol if you use the heat rock on it own it would not help your moist hide the damp hide uses the heat from the heat mate humidity rises in the hide and keeps the moss damp for longer this in turn is used to aid shedding of the gecko any problems please don't hesitate to pm me I would make your reptile keeping more enjoyable if you have a stress free gecko



I didn't consider this (with reference to the moist hide and the heat mat). I've heard that you can use a heat mat WITH a heat rock? There defo isn't room for a heat rock, heat mat & moist hide on one side of the tank. I'd have to place the moist hide on top of the mat which I know is a BIG no no


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## davy27 (Jul 17, 2011)

Sorry guess I did not word that right you should have a cool hide a warm hide and a moist hide that is half on and half off the mat with damp moss not drenched hope this helps


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Thanks.. I didn't think I could place anything on top of the heat mat? not even half on top. I've pretty much got the others.


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## jonny2xx4 (Apr 7, 2013)

Yeah you can put stuff on top of your heat mat mate. Have a warm hide on top of heatmat. heartacHe moist hide half on half off heat mat. Then another hide on the cool side of the viv. : )


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## jonny2xx4 (Apr 7, 2013)

Spray your moist hide every other day to keep humidity up just to keep it damp.


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

cheers mate. good advice


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## jonny2xx4 (Apr 7, 2013)

No prob mate. Any more info I'm on here alot so just ask. Good luck with you gecko mate.


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## Big Lewis (Mar 31, 2013)

Hey all,

So we ended up buying a beautiful female Leo on Tuesday  she's 14 weeks old and settling in really well. She never ate anything on the first or second days but on the third day we opened her moist hide and she ended up eating 3 mealworms and two medium locusts.

Really happy with that, but I have two questions...

She hasn't pooped since we bought her. Should this be a worry? When should I expect her to poop?

Second, she hasn't really come out of her moist hide since we bought her. We did see her come out late at night but only for a split second before we spooked her and she ended up back in the moist hide. Is this ok? Or is it a sign of anything like temperature issues etc..

Thanks


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## JoshG1992 (Dec 14, 2012)

Just read through this and wanted to give a little input. 

Temp wise 25 is too low IMO, i keep mine between 30-32 and he seems to like it. The trick with temperature is to make sure you make it high enough, the Gecko isnt stupid and wont just sit there and overheat, the idea behind raising the temp is to provide a temp gradient, so your Leo can warm up but has somewhere to go to cool down if it gets a bit too warm. IMO a heat mat on a thermostat is the best option for a Leo, with it being nocturnal it isnt basking in the sun, it'll come out at night when the sun has warmed the ground up, and it'll absorb heat through its belly, exactly as a heat mat would provide heat. 

I just thought that there was too many numbers and ideas floating around in this thread and it might get confusing so thats my £0.02 and explanation of why


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## davy27 (Jul 17, 2011)

I wouldn't worry to much about it not having a poo just yet they don't poo every day anyway 
Second of all your Leo not coming out is not rare first of she will be sulking because she has just been move in to a new home and most leos don't normally show there face until late when you are tucked up in bed mine used to trash there viv I used to get up look in spend half hour putting it right lol there she was in her hide with calcium dust on her feet after walking it around her viv hope this helps don't forget pics ......


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