# a quick question about the thermostat set up



## goose221 (May 6, 2007)

well, this is going to be hard to explain...

i have a thermostat. and am about to wire up the heat light for a viv. can i do away with the plug and cable for the light and connect it straight on to the "sensor" plug socket coming from the thermostat? ie. wire up the light onto the cable coming from the thermostat?

it seems to make sense in my head and i think it would work. just wanted to check with someone else.

thanks


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

Not sure if I understand this, you want to connect the heat lamp to the sensor input?
What type of thermostat is it? It would normally have three wires coming from it, one goes to the power socket, one goes to the lamp or heater, and the other goes to the sensor. 
The sensor feeds back temperature information to the thermostat and switches it on and off, the sensor lead doesn't carry power for the lamp/heater.
Have a look at this diagram of a Habistat which should explain it http://www.solarvan.co.uk/habistatpulse.pdf


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## goose221 (May 6, 2007)

no, i have circled the cable i mean.










replace the socket here, and use the cable directly to the light?

hope that^^^ aint an infringment of copywrite.


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## This is my Clone (Jul 8, 2007)

I can't see any reason why not...but then why would you want to?


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## goose221 (May 6, 2007)

cos the plug is right next to the viv and i hate having loads of cables. plus its would save me a couple quid  cos im a bit of a cheap skate student lol


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

OK, no problem "hard-wiring" the lamp straight into the stat, you don't have to use the plug and socket if you don't want to. Just make sure the connections are good and well insulated, what are you intending to do, solder the wires together or use a connector of some sort?

Actually I just realised, I think you intend to cut the socket off and connect the wires directly into the lamp holder, so no connector, is that right? I assume the lamp holder you have is a heat resistant ceramic one? The cable that connects directly to the lampholder should also be heat resistant so that may be a slight problem.


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## DeanThorpe (Apr 9, 2006)

To add, your warranty on the thermostat would be void if you do it... just incase it breaks you wont get your free repair which you would otherwise.

But certainely can be done.
I think you would be better off cutting the plug bit off and conecting the wires instead of going directly into the stat though.


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## bev336 (May 10, 2007)

You would also be taking out a fused plug and using your stat plug fuse as your lamp fuse. Also the comment about heat resistant cable is very important if you are using ceramics and ceramic lamp holders.


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## darkdan99 (Dec 28, 2006)

get some heat proof sleeve for the end of the wire, and you will be fine.
(Maplin > Heat-Shrinkable Sleeving) 

The fuse in the pug to the bulb NEVER blows. I have one Amp fuses in all mine, and have had bulbs Blow, Pop and hiss (gas escape through crack), explode and i have had the cables short. 

The fuse never went, and the stat wasnt damaged.


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## goose221 (May 6, 2007)

Graham said:


> Actually I just realised, I think you intend to cut the socket off and connect the wires directly into the lamp holder, so no connector, is that right?


correct



Graham said:


> I assume the lamp holder you have is a heat resistant ceramic one? The cable that connects directly to the lampholder should also be heat resistant so that may be a slight problem


ah! pants. should be alright? its for rankins, should be about 32degreesC


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## goose221 (May 6, 2007)

darkdan99 said:


> get some heat proof sleeve for the end of the wire, and you will be fine.
> (Maplin > Heat-Shrinkable Sleeving)


excellent thanks!!



darkdan99 said:


> The fuse in the pug to the bulb NEVER blows. I have one Amp fuses in all mine, and have had bulbs Blow, Pop and hiss (gas escape through crack), explode and i have had the cables short.
> 
> The fuse never went, and the stat wasnt damaged.


sooooo....... what is the diagnosis?


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## bev336 (May 10, 2007)

The fuse will not blow with a red bulb because the filament is acting as the fuse (unless it is a larger one), with a ceramic the fuse does usually blow especially is any moisture gets into the lampholder and causes it to arc.


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## goose221 (May 6, 2007)

sorry...... i will be using an incandescent spot bulb


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

> should be alright? its for rankins, should be about 32degreesC


The temperature of the basking spot may only be 32°C, but the bulb and its holder will be a LOT hotter than that. Think of an electric room heater, the room is maybe 20°C or so which is a comfortable temperature, but the heating elements in the fire are red hot!

The fuse is worth considering too, I think for safety's sake I'd fit an inline fuse holder (from any good electrical supplier). You can put this where the plug was, then add a length of heatproof cable from the fuseholder to the lamp.

Alternatively you could get a plug-in RCD (Residual Current Detector) which is always a good idea, it's a highly sensitive trip-switch which will cut the power before any damage is done to the stat, or worse. About £7-£8 from Homebase etc...


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## goose221 (May 6, 2007)

darkdan99 said:


> get some heat proof sleeve for the end of the wire, and you will be fine.
> (Maplin > Heat-Shrinkable Sleeving)


dont suppose you know how to use the stuff?? i cant figure it out.


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