# Care Sheet Competition



## kato (May 12, 2007)

So come on guys and girls, which one of you would like to win a vivarium?

Well now is your chance to win this:


Gekozone are sponsoring this competition in association with VivPlus and here at RFUK we are delighted that they are offering a 24 x 12 x 12 Vivplus as a prize. Why not visit Gekozone's website to see what they have to offer.

The Competition is as the the title states, a Care Competition. Basically write a care sheet and post it here on this thread. Write the Care Sheet about something that you keep. Include photo's, picture's etc. etc. etc.

Now here is the Gekozone bonus, once you enter this competition contact RFUK User Sam at Gekozone.co.uk and you will be entitled to a 5% discount at there online store at Gekozone.

The Rules:

1. All Care Sheets must be your own.
2. You can enter as many times as you like.
3. Entries may be used by RFUK.

Closing Date and time:

21st October 2013 at 4:30PM. The winner will be judged by a panel and announced by the end of October.

Good Luck folks.

Simon.
Administrator.


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## Lord Vetinari (Mar 4, 2011)

*Leioheterodon Madagascariensis - Giant Malagasy Hognose*

By far the most interesting species I have (though that’s not saying much). In the first couple of years I have found mine to be nervous, flighty and most definitely bitey, also very inquisitive of his surroundings, if somewhat cautious – dashing into the nearest hiding spot if startled.

They are a rear fanged colubrid, although the term rear-fanged is a bit of a misnomer. The fang actually sits just below eye.









(At approx. 2 months old)

They can be a nightmare to hook, far preferring to make a run for it just as you are lifting with the hook or death rolling off, some of this experience will be due to my poor hooking skills however. They can show an impressive turn of speed, bouncing around like a loon if startled and dashing off in all directions, striking wildly. We have come to a solid arrangement – I leave him alone, and he doesn’t try to bite the living crap out of me. Despite this I have noticed a slight calming down in the last few weeks. 

I have found that their eyesight is pretty good, easily detecting movement at least 15ft away – even in bad light. Once they feel they have been spotted he will freeze waiting for you to make a move, then beat a hasty retreat once they aren't being watched. 










(At approx. 6 months old)

They make for fairly sizable hatchlings – measuring in at about 9” to 10”. Growth rate is pretty quick; at 13 months my boy is a pretty stocky 4ft. Though be prepared for them to reach about 6ft. 

As mine came to me as a CB already feeding well on F/T I have had no trouble with feeding. Metabolism is pretty quick, from feeding to passing the first load of waste is about 48 hours. I feed on a weekly schedule, at the moment there has been no excessive weight gain and he maintains a good shape. Mine is a shy feeder, drop feeding only, though he will be on food in seconds once it is left. Rodents are favoured over chicks and eggs are ignored. 

Shedding has been pretty straight forward, though I find there can be problems if humidity drops below 40% for an extended period. One thing to note is that their eyesight is severely reduced while shedding, rendering them next to blind. I have been able to place a hook and wave it within a foot of him and for him not to notice, as evidenced by his mental reaction when then touched with it. 









(In shed, showing the extent of their blindness!)

The picture below is of a wound he managed to self-inflict. I startled him and he had something of a fit and made a bid for freedom. I managed to grab him and he tried to bite me, as he was in shed he managed to bite himself hard enough to draw blood. Some iodine and being moved to a F10 disinfected RUB on paper for a few weeks and it healed very well. There is no longer even a scar. (The blood visible behind the wound is mine!) 










This brings us rather nicely onto the question of venom. Although they are a rear fanged species, it is rather weak unlike other Madagascan species. Venomdoc Forums :: View topic - Giant hognose
http://www.venomdoc.com/downloads/2003_BGF_Colubroidea_RCMS.pdf

They definitely rely on bite power – bites from them result in bruising that will last several days, even from a young age. They are surprisingly muscular and strong for their size. It has been a while since I have been bitten (I’m learning!) however in the past I have noticed the following symptoms – for completeness sake I am a 25 year old male, 6ft 2” and 16 stone: 

1. Elevated heart rate (easily attributed to adrenalin dump)
2. Minor localised swelling/throbbing (only really visible when compared directly to corresponding part of body)
3. Headache (very minor – similar to migraine pain, usually goes with 10 minutes. I occasionally suffer from migraines so this may just be something I am susceptible to)
4. Reduced coagulation. (Compared to bite from Boa Constrictor)
5. Deep bruising lasting several days. 

I don’t rate them as particularly hazardous, but a bite from an adult could deal some damage. They ‘telegraph’ their intentions quite clearly, hooding, hissing and supporting the front of their body off the ground in an ‘S’ shape. Their hiss is impressive, sounding like a distressed steam train letting off steam. 









(Current vivarium. He has just been moved to this, and upgraded features are in progress)

They like room to roam and a deepish substrate to burrow in – the bigger the floor area the better. Though I have found what they really appreciate is ground cover in the form of very low overhanging branches, or low vegetation. I have been using repti-card for a while now, and is very good for this species. It well replicates the leaf litter that they are spotted in in the wild. He will also readily climb, and seems pretty adept at it. One of his more endearing traits however is to reach for things, gradually reaching higher and higher using more and more of his body length… until he falls sideways like a plank of wood. 










(At approx. 13 months)

Temperature wise I maintain a basking spot of 29-32c. With a gradient down to about 25c. 

Being a visual hunter they respond well to having a good light cycle and bright light. I am currently using White Python LEDs and they provide very good light. 

A very easy to keep species husbandry wise, not needing much care beyond what could be considered the standard, and definitely more interesting than the more usual species…. 

I look forward to keeping him for many more years yet and I would readily recomend them to someone looking for a 'different' species.


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## xoneringx (Sep 3, 2010)

Why would I try to win something that's already free?


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## kato (May 12, 2007)

xoneringx said:


> Why would I try to win something that's already free?


It's only free if you win it.:Na_Na_Na_Na:

Bloody Troll.


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## GeckoHome (Aug 15, 2013)

Okay I just want to confirm something, do we post the care sheet on here as a post, or can we do it on software and upload it as an attached file?

Also, can we put our name at the bottom as a 'by Dave Bloggs' kind of thing? Or should it be kept anonymous?

Awesomely creative idea for a competition by the way! :notworthy:


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## Scrimey (May 12, 2012)

*Mourning Gecko* _(Lepidactlyus Lugubris)_ are by far the most interesting reptile I keep as they are 'Parthenogenetic' meaning in a simpler form, they have the ability to reproduce without the presence of a male because, of this there are virtually no male Mourning Geckos! Another thing about this species that is really handy to know is that they are better escape artists than Houdini, especially the hatchlings!
*Care*

These little guys or, gals I should say do well in a social groups. A group of three or four will comfortably live in a 12x12x18 (lengthxwidthxheight) Exo Terra. They prefer a lot of cover and hiding spots in various forms such as Cork Bark, Real or Artificial Plants and Bamboo is also a popular choice. Some horizontally placed branches/vines would be preferred for this species as they are 99% arboreal occasionally dropping to the floor to catch their prey. If you do decide to get a group, you are more than likely to witness some form of a social hierarchy. The 'dominant' gecko will most likely chase away other geckos from her favourite spot and might freak a little if she sees anyone in it (Something similar to Sheldon and his spot on 'The Big Bang Theory'. They also need to be misted 1-2 times a day to provide the humidity they require and so they can drink of the sides of the vivarium or off the vivarium decor.
They are widely referred to as nocturnal but, can be often be spotted roaming around their enclosure's if conditions are suffice.
*Heating* 
This species can be quite tolerable to heat temperatures ranging from 24C - 28C are the most common temperatures for this species. A small heat mat connected to a thermostat can be used in the winter moths to provide a hot-spot incase the temperatures drop extremely.
*Vivarium Decor*
The decor for Mourning Geckos is quite focused around a rainforest theme, providing plenty of cover via leaves which also act as a temporary water bowl after misting of the enclosure. Substrate can either be chosen for a 'pleasing to the eye look' where a mix of plantation soil and orchid bark can be used. Also the vivarium can be set-up to be used as a live-planted setup. The Habitat section on the RFUK website is a good place to look for more information and some inspiration Habitat - Reptile Forums

*Feeding*
I raise my babies mainly on Crested Gecko Diet as getting a feeder small enough means you may have to travel a bit but, I happily supply them with fruit flies and correctly sized crickets (I prefer to use pin-heads).
When they reach adult size I continue to feed them on the same diet but, I change them onto 2nd Instar crickets. It is also very important to gutload crickets with fruit and vegetables Collard Greens are good to use. There are many recipes for home made gutloads on the internet which are good to use.

*Breeding*
If you start off with one of these little gals you are more than definitely going to end up with more. Mourning Geckos become sexually mature at around the age of 9-12 months and start to lay eggs, usually in pairs but, one is not uncommon on their first lay. Mine like to lay in the gap right at the top back of the vivarium but, if yours choose not to it's always an idea that decor can be easily removed as their eggs glue to where they're laid like cement and it is near on impossible to remove them without damaging the egg. If the eggs are laid on the side of the vivarium I recommend covering the egg with a small deli cup to prevent the occasional cannibalism that can occur with this species on the egg and the young. When the young hatch they are very small and lightning quick! 





Don't look at the glass, didn't want to miss this photo !





Photographs by me, Jack.S (15 years old)
Information from research and personal experience: victory:


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## kato (May 12, 2007)

GeckoHome said:


> Okay I just want to confirm something, do we post the care sheet on here as a post, or can we do it on software and upload it as an attached file?
> 
> Also, can we put our name at the bottom as a 'by Dave Bloggs' kind of thing? Or should it be kept anonymous?
> 
> Awesomely creative idea for a competition by the way! :notworthy:


Post the care sheet on this Thread please. We do not mind if you do it first on your PC and then copy it across, but no external links or attachments please.

Also you are fine to put your name to it, but remember if used at all, your name will be included.

Simon.
Administrator.


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## kato (May 12, 2007)

Come on guys and girls - WIN WIN WIN!!!!


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## Gekozone.co.uk (Oct 28, 2009)

No one has care sheets they've written :gasp:
Share your care sheet to help others and have the chance to win at the same time :no1:


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## mstypical (Feb 16, 2011)

Gekozone.co.uk said:


> No one has care sheets they've written :gasp:
> Share your care sheet to help others and have the chance to win at the same time :no1:


I would but I only have one specimen of each of the three species I keep, surely making me a 'novice' compared to some keepers on here? I'd happily knock a BCI one up from experience but don't know how reliable it would be based on one boa :gasp:


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## Salazare Slytherin (Oct 21, 2009)

edit ignore this wrong window lol


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## mitsi (Feb 1, 2012)

BOSC MONITOR CARE SHEET
First and foremost, do you have room for an 8x4x4 vivarium, can you afford to heat and feed a living dustbin, an animal that will happily eat its way through 14+ tubs of crickets/locusts and morio worms a week, plus a dozen or so mice/chicks/small rats. If yes then read on, if you are not sure, please consider keeping a smaller lizard.
　
That cute little lizard with attitude will very soon grow into a big 3 to 4 ft lizard , possibly with even worse attitude. These monitor lizards are very intelligent and with hours and hours of patience and hard work, can become tolerant of handling, whilst still retaining that wild streak. This however can make them unpredictable and I wouldn’t advise letting them free roam, especially around young children, they have a verocious bite, and a lot of very sharp curved teeth. As well as a very strong tail that they can and do whip with and extremely sharp claws. Still want one? 
　
You will need a vivarium of at least 8x4x4 (the bigger the better )with two feet of a soil/sand substrate, being mixed at a ratio of 70% soil and 30% sand, ive found this mix to hold burrows very well, you can of course start them off in a smaller viv as long as you can get the temperature gradients correct and have a deep enough substrate for them to burrow in, whilst they grow, But there is no problem putting the little lizard you have just purchased straight into its big home. Please don’t skimp on the substrate levels, its important for them to be able to burrow sufficiently to aid with thermoregulation.
For heating, you will need a row of 3 or 4 bulbs, and a basking spot temperature of between 50c and 65c, they really do need this amount of heat to be able to digest their food properly, the rest of the viv should have temps of around 34c dropping to around 30c at the cool end through the day, at night the temps should fall no lower than 24c. I have found that a couple of tube heaters with thermostats set correctly hold these temps perfectly fine for me.
UV can be used, I personally don’t, it’s a matter of choice.
The soil/sand mix will need to be kept damp to help keep the humidity up at around 75%.
You will need 2 water sources, one large enough for them to soak/swim in and one for fresh water to drink from, you may find that the one they soak in doubles as their toilet also, this will need changing at least once a day, mine usually gets changed at least twice a day.
Their diet is mainly insects, and these are essential to keep the bosc active and healthy, they will readily eat two pots of insect a day plus worms. Boiled egg can be fed on a monthly basis as a treat. The rest of their diet is made up of mice,chicks,fish (including prawns) snails, but not the uk garden ones as these carry parasites that are harmful to them. All food should be fed whole, including the shells on any eggs you may feed, this is a very good way of ensuring they get all the calcium levels they need. And of course, well gut loaded and dusted insects aid in this.
These lizards do not become tame, they can however become very tolerant of us, and this certainly makes it easier for cleaning and feeding. My tips for this would be…
a) take your time, never keep grabbing at them to pick them up, they need to learn you are not a threat.
b) after leaving to settle in, each time you feed, leave your spare hand resting on top of the soil for a few seconds, keeping an obvious eye on where the bosc is. Slowly they will come to see that its not a threat your hand being there.
c) introduce tong feeding, getting a bosc to take food from the tongs is, I found very rewarding and a good step in trust building, eventually they will climb all over your spare hand to get to the food, you can assist with this, by slowly over time, moving the tongs closer to your resting hand. Once they are standing on your hand confidently you can start to slowly raise it off the floor. You can also start to touch them gently, again no grabbing, just gentle touches. As time progresses you can move the food items further onto yourself if you wish.
d) when your bosc seems comfortable with the above, you can progress to just casually going into the viv to interact with them, I find a touch on the head followed by lots of tongue flicking (by them), just to establish im not food, then slowly scooping them up by sliding my hand underneath along the length of their body, works well.
e)TAKE YOUR TIME, DON’T TRY TO RUSH IT.
Please remember that although the above worked well for me, I cant guarantee it will work for you, every animal is different, this is just a guideline. Also, whilst some boscs will get to this stage , there are also some that wont and will never become tolerant of you in anyway, in this case you will just have to accept it and just sit back and watch these amazing animals.
If you do ever get bitten, don’t panic, keep a bottle of vinegar handy and just pour some just under the boscs nose, the acidcy smell will usually make them let go. Just be aware of where your animal is and what its doing, learn to respect it, and hopefully it will learn to trust you.

This is not the gospel of bosc care, just what ive found works very well with mine. When you think you know it all you learn something new, one last tip, research research, then research some more.

nerina.


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## vgorst (Sep 27, 2011)

*Vazimba Gecko (Paroedura vazimba)*

Native Habitat
This species is endemic to small ranges in north-west Madagascar, commonly found in dry deciduous forest in Ankarafantsika National Park and Bora Special Reserve. Temperatures in this region can range from 65F – 93F throughout the year with the monsoon season from November to March. IUCN listed as vulnerable due to limited natural range and deforestation.

Description
A speedy, brown banded gecko reaching 6-7cm long with a spiked, curled tail. Due to their small size and speed, these geckos are not suitable for handling; however they can become very confident and are incredible to watch hunting. Vazimba geckos appear to have small adhesive pads on their toes, however once adult these pads cannot support their full weight. They are semi-arboreal, stalking high in the tank during the night and hiding at floor level during the day. 



(Female vazimba)

(Male – left, female – right)


Females tend to be larger, stockier and darker coloured than males.

Housing
Due to their size, individuals can be housed in 30x30x30cm cubed tanks; however they are comfortable in much larger enclosures. Providing both floor space and height is essential for this species due to their semi-arboreal nature. Therefore hides and cork bark sheets at floor level with branches and climbing areas high in the tank are ideal. 
Examples of two tanks:



(Adult, breeder enclosure – 75cm x 45cm x 60cm)


(Individual adult tank – 30cm x 30cm x 45cm)

Heating
A hot spot of 90 – 95F (32 – 35C) should be provided using a heat mat, ceramic or light bulb attached to a suitable thermostat. A cool area of around 75F (24C) should be provided to allow thermoregulation. An ambient temperature of 80 – 85F (26 – 29C) is suitable for this species.

Lighting
No UV lighting is necessary for this species however providing one allows self-supplementation and helps to prevent calcium-crashes which can be a common problem with breeding females. My tanks are setup with 6% UV bulbs which helps plant growth and reduces problems associated with supplementation.

Humidity
Spraying the tank once or twice a week to keep the humidity between 50 – 80% is ideal.

Diet
Insectivorous, piggy and not fussy! Can be fed a huge variety of inverts and can tackle large live food items. Adults are fed every 2 – 3 days, hatchlings and juveniles fed every 1 – 2 days. 

Breeding
Very prolific breeders therefore a spare tank for separation or maintaining a colony (1 male to numerous 2+ females) is recommended to avoid harassment and over breeding. A dish of calcium carbonate is also recommended to allow females to self-supplement when breeding to prevent calcium crashes. A dry area of a sand/soil mix, 3cm or deeper, should be provided for egg-laying. Clutches of 2 hard shelled eggs can be laid every 2 – 4weeks during the breeding season.



(Fertile eggs)


Incubation should be on a dry substrate, temperature can range from 75 – 82F (24 – 28C) and kept in semi-humid conditions (50 – 70%). Incubation can vary greatly depending on the incubation temperatures, often taking as long as 4 months for the lower temperatures. Temperature sex determination is not documented in this species, with the majority of hatchlings born male.


 
(Hatchlings)

Hatchlings are cared for the same as adults.

Vazimba geckos have very similar care to _Paroedura stumpfii _and _Uroplatus guentheri_


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## FLINTUS (Feb 12, 2012)

Will do the rarest species I own so here goes:
*Serrated Hingeback*_(Kinixys Erosa)_
*Introduction:*
The genus _kinixys _(coming from the Latin kineo to move, and ixys meaning waist) is regularly imported into the pet trade, however in recent years new imports of _kinixys erosa_ have become extremely rare, perhaps because when they were imported frequently, they would often die off very quickly. Now it is mainly _kinixys nogueyi _ that are imported into the UK, while imports of _erosa_ can still be found in countries such as Germany and the states. The Serrated Hingeback goes by many names-Forest Hingeback, Eroded Hingeback, Rosy Hingeback, etc.- but this central/western African tortoise is rarely kept in the UK-half a dozen tortoises at present including my trio-, and very few make it past the first year of importation. Conservation groups like the Turtle Survival Alliance are trying to establish viable breeding colonies to ensure the safety of a back-up captive collection.
Serrated Hingebacks come from central to southern African swamps and jungles, rarely being found in full daylight in the wild and as a result have adapted into a state which is almost albino with their white heads. They are often found in rivers and lakes, and are known to be excellent swimmers, often diving for fish. They are omnivorous, taking in a similar diet to _chelonoidis denticulata _and therefore requiring a diet with much protein and fruit, a diet which would be disastrous for species such as Horsfields or Hermann’s, while their diet would be disastrous for _kinixys erosa. _They live in a high humidity environment, in temperate to tropical forests, where temperatures would average anywhere between around 18 degrees Celsius and 28 degrees Celsius. They have adapted to defend themselves from predators by having a movable hinge on their backs which develops after a couple of years, and jagged edges of the shell which are very sharp to stop predators. Compared to most tortoises they are prehistoric in their looks and actions. Most Serrated Hingebacks will grow to between 9 and 12 inches. 
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_Look at those eyes! Very large as the light levels are so low in the forests._
*The Natural Range*
Generally speaking, they are found in sub-tropical jungles and swamps in central to southern Africa-the range includes such places as Angola, Benin, Cameroon, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Ivory Coast, Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Gambia, Ghana, Guinea, Senegal, Sierra Leone, Togo and Uganda. Temperatures are temperate to tropical, as in some regions temperatures can get below 0 Celsius, and as a result putting them into hibernation. Unusually for a rainforest tortoise, they are cold hardy and will frequently tolerate temperatures of around 10 degrees Celsius. Humidity is also very high, usually around the 90% mark and hardly ever dropping much below 70%, which would be in the dry season. Humidity would be at its highest in mid to late afternoon when the nimbus clouds shed significant rainfall, as is the case most days as rainforest weather is very continuous, rarely throwing up surprises. Unlike the South American rainforests which _chelonoidis carbonaria _inhabit, there are seasons in the rainforests here, and although there is not nearly as significant changes in temperatures through seasons compared to the UK, 5 degrees Celsius or more change is quite common. Do remember if trying to go for a natural approach that if you are in the Northern Hemisphere the winter for these tortoises will be our summer so this is something to be taken into consideration when setting up your enclosure. 
*Threats in the wild:*
The main threats in the wild come from rapid urbanization of the forests that once ruled West Africa, the pet trade and the illegal poaching trade for shells, meat and heads. Although their native range is protected, these rules are not enforced effectively so they will probably soon be heavily threatened in the wild unless new laws are properly enforced.
*In captivity:*
*Adaptation:*
Many Serrated Hingebacks die soon after being imported. It is best to provide a period of 6 months or so after importation of very little disturbance, and mainly darkness. Avoid worming for at least 3 months until they have settled in, but treatment for parasites is recommended due to the heavy load some of these can carry.
*Housing (Inside):*
A 6 by 2ft inside is needed for a single adult, but this could potentially house up to 3 as they are quite happy to share space. They are not a particularly active tortoise, so need barriers rather than open spaces. Humidity should be 80% and above, so plastic is probably better than wood. They love water; some will soak all day so provide water with plants such as hyacinths. Temperatures should be about 23 degrees Celsius or so, and some tortoises may like a hot spot of maximum 32 degrees Celsius. However, these guys are not massively fond of bright lights, so don’t go overboard with this. In terms of UV lighting, some will like it, some won’t. As long as you are supplementing and they are outside regularly they should be OK. If you do use a bulb, avoid cheap Asian imported coil bulbs, and opt for a low level-5% maximum! In terms of substrate, leaf litter and moss are liked, and because these guys climb a lot in rocky crevasses in the wild give logs and stones for them to climb on. Finally, plants are a very important part of an enclosure for these guys. Bamboo, ferns, umbrella, coffee and bromeliads are all good choices to add some greenery.
*Outside:*
These tortoises are pretty resilient, so can be outside while over 10 degrees Celsius. A simple wooden structure with high sides-they will climb! – can work really well. Plant up the enclosure heavily and make sure it stays moist. My outside enclosure is 18 by 8ft.
*Diet:*
Ok, these guys have quite a number of different foods which work for them, but individuals to have a tendency to be fussy. Basically, the core diet for my guys is about 35% fruit, 45% veg, weeds and flowers(and for the purpose of this mushrooms), and 20% animal protein. They take most fruits-particularly the over-ripe ones-, mushroom and animal protein pretty well, but anything green is a bit of a struggle with these guys. Let’s put it this way, they can eat most things, but they have a ‘tropical’ taste. So below are some foods for each section, not foods which are nutritious, but foods which most will actually eat as well.
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_Feeding time! Munching on some apple._
Fruit:
Papaya, Mango, Lychee, Apple(this depends on the tortoise really), Pear, Berries and currants (Any type are considered a delicacy: strawberries, raspberries, blackcurrants etc.), Guava, Dragon Fruit, Melon, Watermelon, Pepper, Courgette, Banana(feed only now and again), plum, peach, apricot and kiwi.
Now onto the fun good stuff-this will vary according to individual tortoise but here are some ideas:
Chicory, Hibiscus, Rocket, Cauliflower, Dandelion, Plantain, Umbrella, Coffee, Banana, Umbrella, Weeping Fig, Bamboo, Rose, Ground Elder, Water-cress, Lambs Lettuce, Radicchio, Mizuna lettuce,
Escarole, Lola Frisco, Grape leaves, Red Oak Lettuce, and Frisee lettuce. 
I also offer plenty of mushrooms-the ones fit for human consumption- which always goes down well. I find for protein soaked dog biscuits are good. In periods of bad weather, I may supplement with Zoo Med Forest Tortoise Food or Nutrazu. 
I always offer calcium powder-such as Nekton MSA- and cuttlefish bone.
*Breeding:*
This is an area that is little understood, with only a few confirmed successful incubations of eggs in captivity. Both the males and females should be ready when they are over 20 cm. Firstly, the male tortoise will chase the female constantly, trying to mount her or anything like her-e.g. a piece of papaya!- which can be a long process. The female may climb the walls to try and escape. If the mating is successful, the female will build a nest of leaf litter and sticks as a mound in a dark place. She will then dig down into it. She may go off her food for a couple of weeks, or eat lots of calcium and protein. If eggs are laid, the most successful incubations are at 28 degrees Celsius and under. If you are prepared to wait it out, it appears around 25 is the temperature with the best results in the wild from speaking to people who have come across these guys in the wild. Hatchlings do not have the hinge and are generally very friendly. They have an appearance similar to _homophus. _If the incubation is successful, this would be a great achievement.
In conclusion, this is a remarkable yet unappreciated species. It is not for beginners though, and takes a lot of time and effort to get it right.
_I’ll just leave you with some amazing pictures of these guys brightly coloured heads:_
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All the photos are my own and of my tortoises and all the text is written by myself.


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## FLINTUS (Feb 12, 2012)

Can Mods please sought out pic links as it's not working for me?


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## kato (May 12, 2007)

*Closed*

:closed: For judging.

Simon.
Administrator.


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## kato (May 12, 2007)

*And the Winner is........*

And the winner is:

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/11489252-post2.html

Congratulations to Lord Vetinari.:no1:

Thanks to all who entered, there were some fantastic entries. Better luck next time.

Also special thanks go to our Sponsor's Gekozone and







.

Simon.
Administrator.


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