# Sealing wooden vivariums



## kerrithsoden (Dec 6, 2009)

Hi all,

How do you guys going about sealing wooden vivs? Ive got one that I need 100% waterproof. Varnish?, Pond paint? Im not bothered what it looks like as it will be covered in fake rock so the wood will not be visible any way. its a 3x3x2.


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## jo-jo-beans (Jun 28, 2010)

Hey there, 
If the wood is waterproof and you just need to seal the joins and gaps then you could use aquarium sealant, think it's called "ha30 marine sealant" or something (sorry can't remember). It's what I used for my big viv.


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## kerrithsoden (Dec 6, 2009)

Its the normal laminated stuff, but for the amount of water that it will be in contact with I'm sure it'll start to warp so just want to give it an extra waterproof layer.

I've just got some aquarium sealant so will do the edges with that.

Cheers!


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## em_40 (Sep 29, 2010)

Remember to seal around glass tracks etc too. My melamine viv started rot from water dripping down the tracks and into the front laminated edge, so not even inside the viv. I don't like them anymore lol. That was from keeping a water-dragon in there, 80% humidity.


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## kerrithsoden (Dec 6, 2009)

em_40 said:


> Remember to seal around glass tracks etc too. My melamine viv started rot from water dripping down the tracks and into the front laminated edge, so not even inside the viv. I don't like them anymore lol. That was from keeping a water-dragon in there, 80% humidity.



This will be a similar sort of humidity. I think I will use yacht varnish as an added precaution.

Cheers for the advice!!


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## Kae (Aug 28, 2011)

Just spent the last week sealing a wooden Vivexotic, talk about a pain in the behind!

I firstly sealed all the raw edges, then assembled and used silicone (make sure it's *not* a mold resistant one, as these contain chemicals that are bad for your reps) to seal all the joins by running a bead along the mating edges and then along the joints. 
After letting this set completely, I have then coated the entire inside with a hard floor varnish (yacht varnish would be even better), in-fact, 4 layers of varnish! 

It's as good as water tight now!


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## xDEADFAMOUSx (Jul 15, 2011)

Kae said:


> Just spent the last week sealing a wooden Vivexotic, talk about a pain in the behind!
> 
> I firstly sealed all the raw edges, then assembled and used silicone (make sure it's *not* a mold resistant one, as these contain chemicals that are bad for your reps) to seal all the joins by running a bead along the mating edges and then along the joints.
> After letting this set completely, I have then coated the entire inside with a hard floor varnish (yacht varnish would be even better), in-fact, 4 layers of varnish!
> ...


how long do you need to leave the viv to dry, iv heard people leave them for weeks for the fumes, so its not about it being touch dry...?


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## kerrithsoden (Dec 6, 2009)

xDEADFAMOUSx said:


> how long do you need to leave the viv to dry, iv heard people leave them for weeks for the fumes, so its not about it being touch dry...?


Thats correct, it takes aaaaages to cure fully. an then when you think its done, put a basking light in there and you get more fumes!


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## Kae (Aug 28, 2011)

xDEADFAMOUSx said:


> how long do you need to leave the viv to dry, iv heard people leave them for weeks for the fumes, so its not about it being touch dry...?



The container will give you a good indication of drying and full cure times. As said above, the most important thing is to run the Viv at full temperature (if not a little higher than you will be) to bring all the fumes out.


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## Nix (Jan 23, 2008)

Kae said:


> The container will give you a good indication of drying and full cure times. As said above, the most important thing is to run the Viv at full temperature (if not a little higher than you will be) to bring all the fumes out.


 
Spot on post. Yacht varnish is worth the hassle though!


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## SsnakesS (Apr 9, 2011)

This has helped me aswel thanks very much!!!! :2thumb:


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