# Bearded dragon



## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Hi all,

I'm planning on buying/rescuing a bearded dragon as my uni pet (and for when I finish uni too!!). I have so far bought a 4x2ft viv, a few decorations and a water bowl (waiting for these to be delivered) but there wasn't any bulbs available in stock on the shop I was on. Can anyone recommend a screw in UV bulb? I was looking at one that does both UVA and UVB (this one in particular Swell Compact Desert 10% UVB Lamps) but am not sure if I'll need a heat mat with this or if a UV bulb like that also accounts for a heat source.
I was also thinking of using newspaper for a substrate rather than sand because I think it'll be easier to keep clean and is cheaper for while I'm studying as well as not having to worry about it swallowing any of the substrat.
Is there anything else I would need to add to this viv when it arrives so that it is all ready to be a beardie's forever home? I was doing to find a large piece of driftwood for it to climb as well but so far haven't found one safe for reptiles or cheap enough. Calcium and food I was going to buy when I go to get the animal.

Thanks,
Ruthy


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

You need a uv tube not a compact uv like you mentioned. The arcadia T5's are perfect. you also need a basking bulb for heat. any old reflective spot bulb will do from tesco, B&Q etc, about £3. Newspaper is fine and one of the best substrates if you disregard appearance. You dont have to buy a reptile specific log. Any log is fine aslong as it is sterilised properly before putting it in the viv. best way to do this is clean thoroughly in a batch with boiling water and a diluted bleach solution. Make sure you wash it all off properly and then either leave to dry naturally for a while or stick it in an oven on low heat for a while to dry out. This will kill anything and everything on/in it.


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Thanks for your reply.
I was told by someone that a bulb like that would count for a basking bulb :S . Would a UV bulb not produce any heat or not enough to make a significant difference? If I bought a T5 and a heat bulb then would there be a cooler side of the tank?
Also, the viv I'm getting is a VivExotic 48, do you know I would put a T5 in there?
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I get this all set up correctly before I look for a beardie


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Would this be the sort of thing to go for? Arcadia Complete UV Light Kit: Desert T5 54w for 48" viv
AND is that a good deal or overpriced?


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## Dee_Williams (Aug 15, 2010)

you need a spot light to provide a basking area, the heat source needs to be statted ot prevent over ehating. A uv tube provides uv to help with calcium absorbtion. 
I usea statted 100w light bulb in my dragon viv for a heat source.


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## Harv23 (Sep 23, 2012)

I use a uv 2.0 and a 10.0, 2 different bulbs one unit running them which I brought separately its a lot cheaper to use tubes than the screw in bulbs seeing they need changing every 6-12 months :thumb: it also helps if they can get quite close to them 15-20cm as UVB losses are high after this


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> Would this be the sort of thing to go for? Arcadia Complete UV Light Kit: Desert T5 54w for 48" viv
> AND is that a good deal or overpriced?


That the kiddie ! Good price too.



You need a 600w dimming thermostat I can't believe the thread has got replies with no one mentioning a thermostat. Disappointed people disappointed


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Thanks all 
I've gone for that T5 kit as I posted above as well as a red infrared heat bulb so hopefully they'll be okay. If the bulb doesn't heat it up the viv sufficiently (will be testing before getting the beardie), then I'll invest in a bigger one and see how that one goes.

What is the dimming thermostat for? I might have to wait until all the other stuff arrives first otherwise three sets of delivery costs is a bit too much! Already spent about £250 on stuff for it!!


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## Harv23 (Sep 23, 2012)

Bradleybradleyc said:


> That the kiddie ! Good price too.
> 
> 
> 
> You need a 600w dimming thermostat I can't believe the thread has got replies with no one mentioning a thermostat. Disappointed people disappointed


Probably a very good idea but I don't use 1 but have had to turn basking bulb off on very hot days


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> Thanks all
> I've gone for that T5 kit as I posted above as well as a red infrared heat bulb so hopefully they'll be okay. If the bulb doesn't heat it up the viv sufficiently (will be testing before getting the beardie), then I'll invest in a bigger one and see how that one goes.
> 
> What is the dimming thermostat for? I might have to wait until all the other stuff arrives first otherwise three sets of delivery costs is a bit too much! Already spent about £250 on stuff for it!!


A thermostat will be attached to your basking light when the temp is at the level you want the bulb will dim so the tempature does not get too hot and kill your reptiles, when the temp drops below the temp you require it will let more heat out.

Not using a stat is just plain stupid in nearly everyone's mind on here including mine, it's one of the most important things for the sake of £40 (around that mark) you would be foolish not to a a bulb not started will just get hotter and hotter 



Harv23 said:


> Probably a very good idea but I don't use 1 but have had to turn basking bulb off on very hot days


Can I ask why you don't use a stat ???


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Harv23 said:


> Probably a very good idea but I don't use 1 but have had to turn basking bulb off on very hot days


Could I not just do that on hot days rather than get a stat?


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Sorry, Bradley, didn't see your post until after I'd posted. That makes sense.
I assume I can get one of those at a large pet shop?


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> Could I not just do that on hot days rather than get a stat?


You could but should you ??? No !
As for the reasons I just stated, think about the welfare of you beardie.

Sorry I posted too quick lol, yep swell is cheap or surry pet supplies


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Bradleybradleyc said:


> You could but should you ??? No !
> As for the reasons I just stated, think about the welfare of you beardie.
> 
> Sorry I posted too quick lol, yep swell is cheap or surry pet supplies


Lol you did the same thing as me!! What I'll do then is wait until all this other stuff arrives and then go about ordering/looking in a nearby shop.
So with the T5 bulb and red heat lamp on its way along with viv and odd bits, is there anything else I need (apart from stat as will look into finding one soon) for the beardie's health and welfare?


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Here's a link cheapest you will get Habistat Dimming Thermostat 600w - Surrey Pet Supplies

I like habistat as if the break they are fixed and repaired within 24 hours all you pay is postage £5, and a 5year guarantee (I think it's 5 years) I never had a problem all of mine are habistat, apart from one for a certain reason.

Habistat all the way, or microlight are also good


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## Harv23 (Sep 23, 2012)

I only use a 40w heat lamp tho and still keep good low side temps all year apart from when temp out side is too high but he is in my front room and temp gauge on cold side goes red when it hits 80


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ok I'll start fom the top.

The viv you have sorted.

The stat I posted is best for light emitting lamps

You need the uv kit you've selected. (Arcadia) the uv strip needs to be replaced every 12 month as they loose some uv rays over the months.

Basking lamp I use normal house hold, clear not red but you can use these. You will need a lamp holder. I suggest ES (E27) Porcelain Lampholder : Mains Lampholders : Maplin Electronics because its a heat lamp, you can use a plastic one, I use hey resistant cable from eBay £1 meter you should only need a meter/meter and a half. A plug top 

Timers are good (the wall socket ones from Argos) to plug your uv and basking lamp on and off they require 12 hour cycles 

Substrate newspaper as you stated once older and the aim for live food has been perfected you can use loose substrate, I do with mine, if you end up using sand it has to be calcium free, you can use Playsand ( I don't use sand until the are around a year)

You need water bowl (small) it will keep humidity down, food bowl for salad veg fruit fresh daily, young will not always eat this however give them the option, here a good chart for you Nutrition Content

The live food must be gut loaded this means offering your locusts, crickets, roaches, mealworms fresh fruit veg salad daily, this means they are full of goodness. Live food daily as much as they can eat in 10 min twice a day, the older they get the less live food you offer

You need calcium to dust the food 5 days a week, and vitimans to dust food twice a week, until around 18 months old (they are the classed as adult) and give vitimans 5 days a week and calcium once a week.

You want 2 digital thermometers one at each end to monitor the temps, the dial ones are pants 

Basking log and a few decorations (they like space so don't clutter the viv too much) no plants as when young the may eat these thinking its food.

I think that's it, there a lots of good care sheets on here 

And enjoy the beardie lol

Any questions just ask


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Harv23 said:


> I only use a 40w heat lamp tho and still keep good low side temps all year apart from when temp out side is too high but he is in my front room and temp gauge on cold side goes red when it hits 80


What size viv are you using 40w is very low ??? 

I don't mean to sound like I'm getting at you, I just don't understand that for the sake of £40 you don't use a stat


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Bradley, thank you for your reply.
I've got the viv sorted, UV bulb is ordered, stat is now ordered and I ordered a lamp holder thingy with the viv earlier. Thermometers I will go and buy from a shop rather than online.
Would I be able to offer the beardie more meal and wax worms than locusts? Crickets and locusts are a bit too quick and hoppy for me :blush:


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## Harv23 (Sep 23, 2012)

Bradleybradleyc said:


> A thermostat will be attached to your basking light when the temp is at the level you want the bulb will dim so the tempature does not get too hot and kill your reptiles, when the temp drops below the temp you require it will let more heat out.
> 
> Not using a stat is just plain stupid in nearly everyone's mind on here including mine, it's one of the most important things for the sake of £40 (around that mark) you would be foolish not to a a bulb not started will just get hotter and hotter
> 
> ...


It is very cheap and probably because I didn't get recommend one when I brought my beardie and as I've said don't get bad temps so never looked into it (apart from hot days and pretty sure the stat will just turn it off any way)


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## Harv23 (Sep 23, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> Bradley, thank you for your reply.
> I've got the viv sorted, UV bulb is ordered, stat is now ordered and I ordered a lamp holder thingy with the viv earlier. Thermometers I will go and buy from a shop rather than online.
> Would I be able to offer the beardie more meal and wax worms than locusts? Crickets and locusts are a bit too quick and hoppy for me :blush:


I believe meal worms not great for a young beardie


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## Harv23 (Sep 23, 2012)

Bradleybradleyc said:


> What size viv are you using 40w is very low ???
> 
> I don't mean to sound like I'm getting at you, I just don't understand that for the sake of £40 you don't use a stat


I've got the lamp inside the viv


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> Bradley, thank you for your reply.
> I've got the viv sorted, UV bulb is ordered, stat is now ordered and I ordered a lamp holder thingy with the viv earlier. Thermometers I will go and buy from a shop rather than online.
> Would I be able to offer the beardie more meal and wax worms than locusts? Crickets and locusts are a bit too quick and hoppy for me :blush:


No worries I like to help when I know what I'm talking about, I don't advise otherwise or a animal will suffer,

You could the live food I offer I varied they love it

Locusts- you can put in the fridge for 5 min before feeding to make the sleepy, and they are not quick (honestly)

Crickets- fast (I hate them)

Dubia roaches- cockroaches the best meat to shell ratio, can climb don't smell can fly ( mine love these)

Wax worms- good source of fat but I only get these once a month as too many will cause a fat Beardie.

Mealworms- only for adults as they can be hard to digest and they stink !

Mario/super worms- same as above but don't smell.

To dust I put them in a bag with the powder in and shake job done.

You can get reptile tweezer if your squeamish. They are long no touhing bugs then 

Oh and what ever is not eaten take out before bed time as they can/will bite and pester your Beardie which will be stressful for them


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Harv23 said:


> It is very cheap and probably because I didn't get recommend one when I brought my beardie and as I've said don't get bad temps so never looked into it (apart from hot days and pretty sure the stat will just turn it off any way)


I would suggest you invest you would be beside yourself if anything happens, down to not haveing one



Harv23 said:


> I believe meal worms not great for a young beardie


Correct



Harv23 said:


> I've got the lamp inside the viv


My lamp is inside too and I use 60w my house is always warm but 60w give the best temp in my 4by2by2 vivs


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## Harv23 (Sep 23, 2012)

Bradleybradleyc said:


> I would suggest you invest you would be beside yourself if anything happens, down to not haveing one
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Same size viv and attached to side maybe its because I'm not using a stat basking spots 110 give or take a couple of degs each way


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Harv23 said:


> Same size viv and attached to side maybe its because I'm not using a stat basking spots 110 give or take a couple of degs each way


Well each to their own mate :thumb:


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Bradleybradleyc said:


> No worries I like to help when I know what I'm talking about, I don't advise otherwise or a animal will suffer,
> 
> You could the live food I offer I varied they love it
> 
> ...


The beardie I get might be a little bit older as I'm thinking of rescuing one. 
A friend of mine said you can get crickets and locusts canned and therefore need to make them look more alive with tweezers or chopsticks for the beardie?


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

I've had a quick read through and everything Bradley has said regarding lighting is spot on, except when using a T5 UV it should stretch 3/4's of your viv so you should have a 3ft tube in your 4ft viv. This will create a shaded area in the cool end, it's called a photogradient and is very good for a beardy. I didn't mention a stat as it completely skipped through my mind, I just assume everyone has one. It frustrates me when people are not recommended them or sold "setups" without one. They are essential and probably the most important piece of equipment you need. Dont listen to people who say they just turn the light off on hot days, no one should suggest you dont need a stat because you do and for the job it does £40 is nothing. One day they'll forget or wont be around to turn it off and ooops... They're beardy is cooked!


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> The beardie I get might be a little bit older as I'm thinking of rescuing one.
> A friend of mine said you can get crickets and locusts canned and therefore need to make them look more alive with tweezers or chopsticks for the beardie?


You can get them canned correct, I would never use them as I like my boys and girls to hunt for their food it's a good form of exercise and keeps the mind a bit active lol, beardies can be very lazy, however if they have a good nutritional value I can see why not, I would use the tweezers and shake them about a bit.

IMO live food will always be best as its fresh


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

Bradleybradleyc said:


> You can get them canned correct, I would never use them as I like my boys and girls to hunt for their food it's a good form of exercise and keeps the mind a bit active lol, beardies can be very lazy, however if they have a good nutritional value I can see why not, I would use the tweezers and shake them about a bit.
> 
> IMO live food will always be best as its fresh


To add to this. All beardies are different but mine is quite fussy and he's not the only one. I have trouble feeding him small worms such as calci/wax worms because they hardly move. I can pretty much guarantee mine would not be at all interested by canned food, it has to move for him!


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

tomcannon said:


> To add to this. All beardies are different but mine is quite fussy and he's not the only one. I have trouble feeding him small worms such as calci/wax worms because they hardly move. I can pretty much guarantee mine would not be at all interested by canned food, it has to move for him!


Mine love the chase, I don't like hand feeding no matter how cute it is to us. They seem to enjoy the chase as soon as mine see the "dusting bag" come out before they see live food the room explodes with anticipation and excitement. Make me feel bad for the losers when it's not live food day for them only the babies lol


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

But if I was to use chopsticks/tweezers to imitate movement, that could be alright? I don't mind putting the extra bit of time in to feed it.
Also, the T5 bulb I've bought I think fits a 4 foot tank, would it be alright if I put some stoney ornament in to create a small cave for the beardie?


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> But if I was to use chopsticks/tweezers to imitate movement, that could be alright? I don't mind putting the extra bit of time in to feed it.
> Also, the T5 bulb I've bought I think fits a 4 foot tank, would it be alright if I put some stoney ornament in to create a small cave for the beardie?


You could, but is the reason just that you don't like the options of live food?? 

48inch tube yes ? Put the link up ill have a quick check for you.

I don't use hides for beardies and don't recommend it as they need uv for 10/12 hours a day, they may hide away all day and this will cause health problems for them


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

I'd suggest giving live food a try, my girlfriend was very hesitant at first but now she couldn't care less about the creepy crawlies! I also would'nt suggest a hide unless you know what your doing for the reasons Bradley said. The 4ft tube will fit in your 4ft viv fine, it's just with the T5's you should use a 3ft one to create the photogradient. With the older bulbs ie the repti glo 10's they have to stretch the whole lenght of the viv as they are not strong enough to use in only 3/4's of the viv as the other quarter wont receive enough uv. With the T5 even if you only cover 3/4's of the viv the other foot will still be penetrated by the uv rays so its fine for your beardy but it will also be darker than any other part of the viv and the beardy will recognise this as the place to go and cool down. It is a very important asset to have its just not well know yet as the T5's have only just come out. I would most definitely recommend ringing whoever you ordered the tube off tomorrow and changing the order for the 3ft tube setup, it'll be cheaper too!


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Here's the link Arcadia Complete UV Light Kit: Desert T5 54w for 48" viv

I just have a slight fear of crickets jumping up at my face - anything with more than four legs.
But I am thinking, if I was to go to a shop with quite a few different tubs and ask the shop people to split the crickets into smaller numbers then I'll be able to cope with them more


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

Ruthy059 said:


> Here's the link Arcadia Complete UV Light Kit: Desert T5 54w for 48" viv
> 
> I just have a slight fear of crickets jumping up at my face - anything with more than four legs.
> But I am thinking, if I was to go to a shop with quite a few different tubs and ask the shop people to split the crickets into smaller numbers then I'll be able to cope with them more


That's what you want, just the 3ft version. Swell reptiles are also very well priced that's where I got my T5 from!


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> Here's the link Arcadia Complete UV Light Kit: Desert T5 54w for 48" viv
> 
> I just have a slight fear of crickets jumping up at my face - anything with more than four legs.
> But I am thinking, if I was to go to a shop with quite a few different tubs and ask the shop people to split the crickets into smaller numbers then I'll be able to cope with them more


As Tom said, for the uv, if still unsure pm Arcadiajohn on here he's a uv expert and not a chancre lol, 

You will find it hard to get a shop to do that splitting them up, but some may be king enough. Go for locusts or roaches they are not quick unlike crickets,

Sometime we have to confront our fears (unfortunately) I know what you mean I hate crickets with a passion but feed them because they require it


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

Indeed arcadiajohn is the man for lighting questions however I can assure you there is no need to contact him on this one. I know I'm right. Guess how?.. Because it was John who told me in the first place! :lol2:

It also explains it better on Lighting Guide for all Reptiles from Arcadia under "how to create a photogradient" just scroll down a little.


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

tomcannon said:


> Indeed arcadiajohn is the man for lighting questions however I can assure you there is no need to contact him on this one. I know I'm right. Guess how?.. Because it was John who told me in the first place! :lol2:
> 
> It also explains it better on Lighting Guide for all Reptiles from Arcadia under "how to create a photogradient" just scroll down a little.


Wasn't questioning you knowledge Tom, I have seen other advice you have given on past threads which is very good

Just in general I meant, worded it wrong (isn't the first time lol)


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

Ah man, I hate forums, you can never interpret how someone is saying soemthing! I know you werent questioning my advise, I was just building up the "I know what I'm talking about" image so I could then just pop in the "because John told me" part at the end! 

Although thanks for the comment, you're pretty knowledgeable yourself and I still have a lot to learn, but that's the fun of it all isn't it!


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

tomcannon said:


> Ah man, I hate forums, you can never interpret how someone is saying soemthing! I know you werent questioning my advise, I was just building up the "I know what I'm talking about" image so I could then just pop in the "because John told me" part at the end!
> 
> Although thanks for the comment, you're pretty knowledgeable yourself and I still have a lot to learn, but that's the fun of it all isn't it!


This is it everything can get taken the wrong way because its not proper communication ie tone, looks etc

Mate who hasn't got a lot to learn still no Matter how experienced, the advice, set ups, equipment has change a hell of a lot in the past 14 years I've been keeping reptiles, I never would of thought back then you can now get some of the items you can lol. We will never stop learning about our reptile because they are so uneque compared to any other pet


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

I've sent an email asking Swell to change the light kit to 36" and refund the difference


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## Alasse12 (Jul 29, 2011)

Ruthy059 said:


> Here's the link Arcadia Complete UV Light Kit: Desert T5 54w for 48" viv
> 
> I just have a slight fear of crickets jumping up at my face - anything with more than four legs.
> But I am thinking, if I was to go to a shop with quite a few different tubs and ask the shop people to split the crickets into smaller numbers then I'll be able to cope with them more


You're joking, surely? Would you be willing to pay them for the time spent dividing crickets into different tubs?


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Alasse12 said:


> You're joking, surely? Would you be willing to pay them for the time spent dividing crickets into different tubs?


Was hoping they'd be nice and do it quickly without a fee, there are people at home who'd do that, but don't know about up here


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Yay. The 48" light has been changed to a 36" and I got a nice feeding bowl with the difference in the price :2thumb:


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## ChazzieJo (Jun 14, 2012)

I would have gone for the 4ft version, fits nicely into my vivarium.

As people said above, you'll need a "basking spot" which will provide heat for your beardie, this should be set at 40c on your thermostat (best to go for a dimming thermostat for a heat bulb, I can recommend Habistat as a brand). The UV will need to run the length of your vivarium to ensure that your Beardie is getting the adequate UVB, no matter where he/she is! 

You'll need to monitor temperatures in your vivarium with some digital thermometers (some people use temp-guns, although I know people who've had bad experiences so I stick to thermometers attached to the inside of the vivarium). You'll need to monitor cool end (anywhere from 20's to 30's is fine), warm end (should be around the 30's) and basking spot (again, 40c is ideal!). 

I tend to check mine daily, just peek in and have a nosey to ensure it's not too hot/cold. Overnight heating isn't required unless your house gets exceptionally cold, in which case you'll need to invest in a ceramic heat emitter (like a ceramic bulb that only emits heat) to keep on overnight. 

Avoid heat mats/heat rocks with Beardies, they're basking animals that absorb their heat from above and can't feel much from their underbellies, therefore all they do is result in an animal that can quite easily lay there and burn itself (I've seen the results.. not nice!). 

You'll want to aim for the basking spot to be out of reach, around 20cm and I would recommend investing in a guard, best to be safe than sorry!

Enjoy your new guy, they're brill.
: victory:


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

ChazzieJo said:


> I would have gone for the 4ft version, fits nicely into my vivarium.
> 
> UV will need to run the length of your vivarium to ensure that your Beardie is getting the adequate UVB, no matter where he/she is!


Again not true in this instance. Please read what I have said above and even the link if you need a second more valid opinion. As a T5 is being used it doesn't need to stretch the whole length of a viv as the rays will travel well over a foot. With the T5 it is actually beneficial to use a uv tube which is a foot shorter. You then mount the tube on the hot side of the viv leaving a foot in the cool end. The T5 uv rays will still reach this foot with ease when a reflector is used. This foot will obviously be darker than the rest of the viv and create a photgradient that matches the thermogradient. Beardies naturally associate shade with lower temps and will use this area to cool down. 

It's an easy mistake to make seeing as the T5 is relatively new to us and everyone is used to using the older bulbs which should stretch the whole length of the viv.


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## les938 (Aug 9, 2012)

ChazzieJo said:


> As people said above, you'll need a "basking spot" which will provide heat for your beardie, this should be set at 40c on your thermostat (best to go for a dimming thermostat for a heat bulb, I can recommend Habistat as a brand). The UV will need to run the length of your vivarium to ensure that your Beardie is getting the adequate UVB, no matter where he/she is!:


Why does the stat 'have' to be set at 40c? Mine is set at 30c and my temps are good.

As tom has said a 3ft tube will provide uvb to the whole viv (4ft) but will also create a shaded area.


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## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

les938 said:


> Why does the stat 'have' to be set at 40c? Mine is set at 30c and my temps are good.
> 
> As tom has said a 3ft tube will provide uvb to the whole viv (4ft) but will also create a shaded area.


I think ChazzieJo meant the basking bulb must be statted and set so that the basking spot reaches 40c. My stat only reaches 34 or something like that and is set at about 30 but due to the positioning of the stat probe the basking temp is 42.


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Well, the viv and all that arrived today. I'm going to get the other half to help me build it this weekend and then it's a matter of contacting the landlord for permission. If he says no, then I suppose I'll just knit a lizard and turn the heat lamp on to warm my hands on cold days in the flat lol


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> Well, the viv and all that arrived today. I'm going to get the other half to help me build it this weekend and then it's a matter of contacting the landlord for permission. If he says no, then I suppose I'll just knit a lizard and turn the heat lamp on to warm my hands on cold days in the flat lol


Er don't you think you should of spoke to your landlord before you spent all that money, don't me to be mr negative


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

Well I'll definitely have one in the future anyway, so would just keep the equipment until then


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> Well I'll definitely have one in the future anyway, so would just keep the equipment until then


Go to hear I hope you have success with convincing him/her


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## Ruthy059 (May 29, 2012)

The previous tenants had fish, to me it isn't that much different but I am going to write a letter to them rather than email


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## Dee_Williams (Aug 15, 2010)

Dee_Williams said:


> you need a spot light to provide a basking area, *the heat source needs to be statted ot prevent over ehating*. A uv tube provides uv to help with calcium absorbtion.
> I usea *statted 100w light bulb in my dragon viv for a heat source.*





Bradleybradleyc said:


> You need a 600w dimming thermostat I can't believe the thread has got replies with no one mentioning a thermostat. Disappointed people disappointed


Oi! I already had. :bash:


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## Bradleybradleyc (May 7, 2012)

Ruthy059 said:


> The previous tenants had fish, to me it isn't that much different but I am going to write a letter to them rather than email


Well I know what you mean they are both in a viv (fish bowl) so they are the same sort I suppose, however a lot of people don't like reptiles and its a completely different ball game, however being the way things are at the moment a landlord would rather have someone in their flat/house then an empty house.

Hope they are understanding with your rep and as said a hand written letter is more personal then an email. 



Dee_Williams said:


> Oi! I already had. :bash:


My bad, Misread your post sorry 
:whistling2:


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