# Bearded dragon with white nose



## nachos (Mar 6, 2011)

so Ive gone to a couple sites and they all say my bearded dragons white nose is due to shedding, but he has had the nose for about a month, and gets sick the last 2 times i have tried to feed him crickets. i am worried i may not be putting enough calcium powder but i am not sure. any help is welcomed


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## Rthompson (Feb 19, 2011)

Hey Nachos!

The white nose is a sign of shedding and does take a couple of weeks before it starts to begin flaking off, sounds fine.

what do you mean by getting sick though exactly?


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## CSJ10 (Jun 7, 2010)

As above about the getting sick. 

Do you bath your beardie regularly, this can help if there's a stubborn bit of skin.


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## dickvansheepcake (Jul 8, 2009)

Hi, what is the set up like? What are the temperatures in the viv? How much calcium are you giving?


Jenny


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## nachos (Mar 6, 2011)

his feces has been very runny. i give him a bath about once a week in luke warm water. and about 1/4 teaspoon of calcium powder for a full bowl of greens that lasts him half the day and is replaced once he eats it all. temperature in the tank is about 27 Celsius or 82 Fahrenheit


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

no basking spot or are you just giving him cool end temperature throughout the viv? 
no live foods, crickets, locusts, roaches etc?


if you're keeping it at a flat 28c on a diet of veg it sounds like he's developed a cocaine habit to cope with the sub standard setup.


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## dickvansheepcake (Jul 8, 2009)

You should have a basking spot of around 105f, the warm end around the basking spot should be 90-95 and the cool end should be around 80f. What heating/lighting are you using? He is probably being sick as it is far too cold for him to digest his food. He will also not shed properly with such a low heat. What live food is he getting?


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## nachos (Mar 6, 2011)

ive been worried about giving him anything live because he seems to throw it up. the basking temperature is around 31 Celsius. the cool end is around 25


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## dickvansheepcake (Jul 8, 2009)

nachos said:


> ive been worried about giving him anything live because he seems to throw it up. the basking temperature is around 31 Celsius. the cool end is around 25


The temps are far to low! Basking should be around 40c, and cool end around 27c. Raise the temps and the poor thing will be able to digest his food and will stop regurgitating it. I'd also suggest getting a fecal sample tested.

What heating and lighting equipment are you using?


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## nachos (Mar 6, 2011)

i am currently using a 150 W heating lamp for basking area what power level would you suggest? or any other methods of making his habitat warmer


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## dickvansheepcake (Jul 8, 2009)

That should be enough, I don't understand how your temps can be that low with a 150 w bulb. Do you have pictures of your viv that you could post up?


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## Meko (Apr 29, 2007)

nachos said:


> i am currently using a 150 W heating lamp for basking area what power level would you suggest? or any other methods of making his habitat warmer


Have you got the thermostat too close to the bulb? if it's too close then depending on what it's set to, it'll turn the temperature down way too soon.
Habistat dimming stats go up to 32c so if you were using one of them, or a similar one, and you had the probe right under the basking spot then you'll never hit the right temperatures.


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## nachos (Mar 6, 2011)

ok im not sure if i l;inked properly but this is his tank, and will soon be upgrading to larger


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## CSJ10 (Jun 7, 2010)

The link doesn't work. 

To provide good advice, we need to know where your thermostat probe is in relation to the basking spot as this will affect what temperature your heat source can reach (as asked by Meko). Also, what are you using to measure the temperature? If it is a dial these are no good in my opinion but it needs to be as close to the basking spot as possible. The same with the probe of a digital thermometer - it needs to be on the basking spot. 

Like dickvansheepcake said, as it stands, your temperatures are incorrect. This is VERY bad for your beardie and needs addressing urgently. He will not be able to digest his food properly if at all (hence regurgitation) and as such his health is likely to decline very quickly.


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## CSJ10 (Jun 7, 2010)

I also meant to say that the setting for the thermostat will depend on the size of the viv. However, the dial on the stat should be treated as an increase/decrease nob and not as a guide for temperatures as they are not accurate. 

For example: I had a beardie in a 4x2 viv and to get the proper temperature I had to turn the stat to full and position the probe mid way along the back wall at about mid height.


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## Kamike (Aug 3, 2009)

Your BD isn't called Charlie Sheen is it?


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