# Live planting



## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

I know there are a few threads on this already but I can't seem to find what it is I'm after having done a general search.

I have two exo terras, one with 3 adult cresties and one with 3 adult tokays. I'm toying with the idea of live planting and wanted to know a few things:

1) Which plants are suitable?
2) What's the best substrate/drainage material?
3) How do you clean vivs when you've got live plants?

Last one lol, what level of UV is required in live planted vivs?

Thanks


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## Madhouse5 (Jun 6, 2011)

hannah87 said:


> I know there are a few threads on this already but I can't seem to find what it is I'm after having done a general search.
> 
> I have two exo terras, one with 3 adult cresties and one with 3 adult tokays. I'm toying with the idea of live planting and wanted to know a few things:
> 
> ...


pop on to Just Airplants there on here two there give you all the info you need 



Paul


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

That's fab thank you


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## Madhouse5 (Jun 6, 2011)

hannah87 said:


> That's fab thank you


your welcome you know we need pics once you finished it


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

I've got to convince the other half to pay for it first lol  Will do pics as I go along


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## Madhouse5 (Jun 6, 2011)

hannah87 said:


> I've got to convince the other half to pay for it first lol  Will do pics as I go along


lol well you better get convincing lol


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## toad650 (Feb 9, 2009)

You can get loads of plants from places like homebase and ikea quite cheaply. I go to garden centre's see what i like and then google the name followed by toxic and see what comes up. 

Umbrella plants are a good start as there quite big. There's quite a few online shops that sell plants for viv's if you do a search for frog sites like pollywogs if you want more tropical looking plants but they can get a bit more expensive.


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

hannah87 said:


> I know there are a few threads on this already but I can't seem to find what it is I'm after having done a general search.
> 
> I have two exo terras, one with 3 adult cresties and one with 3 adult tokays. I'm toying with the idea of live planting and wanted to know a few things:
> 
> ...



Answers in *bold*.


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

That's brilliant thanks guys, really helpful  And the other half agrees - wooo!!


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## Spikebrit (Oct 23, 2006)

I was going to answer but everyone has beat me to it. If you look in the planted habitat tab that might help you a bit more

For exo terra a layer of hydrolecce (clay balls) followed by a permeriable membrane (netting or simular) then your soil is best. 

For soil i use an organic compost mixed with leaves and bit and bob etc add rocks and twigs to aid drainage

Plants i get min from Just Airplants and they are brill. 

Cleaning, we all use bugs for that so no more cleaning. check out my thread here http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/planted-vivariums/659337-bio-active-substrates-how-why.html

jay


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

I get excellent results growing plants under T5 daylight tubes, you don't need anything fancy and you don't need UV, any electrical wholesalers should have them or be able to get them in for you, I bought a pair of 24W ones a few weeks ago for about £4 each. The colour temp you want is 6500K.

This is one of my old vivs (was going to use it for dartfrogs but never did get them!) lit by two T5 daylight tubes, it got pretty overgrown in the end, and then when I decided not to get the frogs I stripped out all the plants. I now use it to raise chilli seedlings which grow really well under the lights.


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## Spikebrit (Oct 23, 2006)

Graham said:


> I get excellent results growing plants under T5 daylight tubes, you don't need anything fancy and you don't need UV, any electrical wholesalers should have them or be able to get them in for you, I bought a pair of 24W ones a few weeks ago for about £4 each. The colour temp you want is 6500K.
> 
> This is one of my old vivs (was going to use it for dartfrogs but never did get them!) lit by two T5 daylight tubes, it got pretty overgrown in the end, and then when I decided not to get the frogs I stripped out all the plants. I now use it to raise chilli seedlings which grow really well under the lights.
> 
> image


looking very nice. 

Yer i love the T5 daylight bulbs, so long as you get the right spectrum they are brillant for growth. 

Though of course the use of UV would depending on the occupant :whistling2:. but UV is completely useless for plants. 

Jay


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

Graham said:


> I get excellent results growing plants under T5 daylight tubes, you don't need anything fancy and you don't need UV, any electrical wholesalers should have them or be able to get them in for you, I bought a pair of 24W ones a few weeks ago for about £4 each. The colour temp you want is 6500K.
> 
> This is one of my old vivs (was going to use it for dartfrogs but never did get them!) lit by two T5 daylight tubes, it got pretty overgrown in the end, and then when I decided not to get the frogs I stripped out all the plants. I now use it to raise chilli seedlings which grow really well under the lights.
> 
> image


'Chilli seedlings' huh? :whistling2:





:lol2:


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

Ron Magpie said:


> 'Chilli seedlings' huh? :whistling2:
> 
> 
> :lol2:


Yes Ron, chillis! My brain is already befuddled enough to be growing what you're thinking of, I'll leave that to the younger folk.

Here you go...










I added a couple of daylight compacts halfway down so I can grow more seedlings in there.


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

Had a spending spree this afternoon to get me started. Bought a bag of organic peet free compost, was going to mix this with eco earth? Some orchid bark - read this is good to mix? Then I've got fig, spider plant, peace lilly, birds nest fern, bromeliad and I can't remember the other two off of the top of my head - that's for both vivs. My mum's got some of that weed meshing/netting to put between the substrate and the drainage layer. Was thinking would lava rock do the same job as the clay balls?


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## my_shed (Jan 5, 2011)

Lava rock will work to a certain extent, it doesn't absorb in the same way that hydroleca does so you effectively have a smaller drainage layer. It's also heavier. But with regular syphoning it won't cause major problems.

Dave


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## Spikebrit (Oct 23, 2006)

hannah87 said:


> Had a spending spree this afternoon to get me started. Bought a bag of organic peet free compost, was going to mix this with eco earth? Some orchid bark - read this is good to mix? Then I've got fig, spider plant, peace lilly, birds nest fern, bromeliad and I can't remember the other two off of the top of my head - that's for both vivs. My mum's got some of that weed meshing/netting to put between the substrate and the drainage layer. Was thinking would lava rock do the same job as the clay balls?


Weed membrane is god and larva rock would work as well though would be heavier. 

As for the orchid bark adding it is up to you, it is used to basically improve drainage. A cheaper way to do this is to break up twigs to about and inch long and mix these in. Does the same job and is free. 

Jay


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

Spikebrit said:


> As for the orchid bark adding it is up to you, it is used to basically improve drainage. A cheaper way to do this is to break up twigs to about and inch long and mix these in. Does the same job and is free.
> 
> Jay


Doh!! Bought it now :lol2:

Where can you get the hydroleca from? Can it be shop bought as opposed to online?

Also, having seen someone else do it, I would like to set the bromeliad into the background I've got, it's polystyrene and already fitted, would it be possible to do? The one I saw was in a homemade background. Would it have to be left in the pot?


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

hannah87 said:


> Doh!! Bought it now :lol2:
> 
> Where can you get the hydroleca from? Can it be shop bought as opposed to online?
> 
> Also, having seen someone else do it, I would like to set the bromeliad into the background I've got, it's polystyrene and already fitted, would it be possible to do? The one I saw was in a homemade background. Would it have to be left in the pot?



Most shops/garden centres can get Hydroleca.

Polybackgrounds (such as the ones that come with Exo-Terra's) will rot and fall apart after a while especially in high-humidity/planted vivs. I would not reccomend planting in them.

Try using either Cork or Xaxin backgrounds :2thumb:, these can have broms planted in and will last.


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## Spikebrit (Oct 23, 2006)

hannah87 said:


> Doh!! Bought it now :lol2:
> 
> Where can you get the hydroleca from? Can it be shop bought as opposed to online?
> 
> Also, having seen someone else do it, I would like to set the bromeliad into the background I've got, it's polystyrene and already fitted, would it be possible to do? The one I saw was in a homemade background. Would it have to be left in the pot?


hydroloeeca can be brought from any good garden shop or focus. 

Yep you can fix broms to the poly background but they arnt the best all depends how humid your tank is. They dont really need to be in a pot or use their roots (depending on species) as they are only there for support. Using moss and bent papervlips you can fix it to the background, or even carve a hole out to push the brom in. Alternatively you can tie the plant to branches. 

Jay


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## sue59 (Oct 31, 2010)

Safe plants

All the follow plants are safe for Crested Geckos









Abelia (Abelia grandiflora)
African Violet (Saintpaulia ionantha)
Sweet Alyssum (Allyssum species)
Asperagus Fern (Aperagus setaceus plumosis)
Aster (Aster species)
Baby Tears (Helxine soleirolii)
Bird's Nest Fern (Asplenium nidus)
Boston Fern (Nephrolepsis exalta)
Bottle Brush (Callistemom)
Bouganvillea (Bouganvillea)
Bridal Veil (Tripogandra multiflora)
Bromeliads (Aechmea; Bilbergia; Cryptanthus)
Cactus, spineless (Astrophytum)
Camellia (Camellia japonica)
Coleus (Coleus)
Corn Plant (Dracaena Fragrans)
**Creeping Charlie (Pilea nummulariifolia)
**DO NOT CONFUSE ABOVE WITH !!!!Glecoma heteracea!!!!
Croton (Codiaeum species)
Dracaena (Dracaena species)
Emerald Ripple (Peperomia caperata)
Eugenia (Peperomia caperata)
Fuschia (Fuschia)
Geranium (Pelargonium species)
Hen and Chicks Succulent (Echeveria)
Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)
Hoya (Hoya exotica)
Iceplant (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum)
Impatiens (Impatiens)
Jade Plant (Crassula argentea)
Japanese Aralia (Fatsia japonica)
Jasmine (Jasminum officinale: J. grandifloum)
Lavender (Lavandula officinalis)
Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Monkey Plant (Ruellia makoyana)
Mother of Pearl (Graptopetalum paraguayen)
Natal Plum (Carissa grandiflora)
Painted Nettle (Coleus)
Palms (Areca species)
Pampas Grass (Cortaderia selloana)
Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
Peperomia (Peperomia caperata)
Petunia (Petunia)
Phoenix (Phoenix roebelenii)
Piggyback Plant (Tolmiea menziesii)
Pilea (Pilea species)
Pink Polka-Dot Plant (H. ypoestes sang.)
Ponytail Plant (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Prayer Plant (Maranta leuconeura)

Purple Passion: Purple Velvet (Gynura)
Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
Staghorn Fern (Platycerium bifurcatum)
Swedish Ivy (Plectranthus australis)
Tree Mallow (Lavatera assurgentiflora)
**Umbrella Plant (Eriogonum umbrellum)
**DO NOT CONFUSE ABOVE WITH !!!!Scheffiera actinophylla!!!!
Velvet Plant (Gynura aurantaca)
Wandering Jew (Tradescantia albiflora)
Warneckii (Dracaena deremensis)
Wax Plant (Hoya exotica)
Zebra Plant (Calathea zebrina)
Zinnias (Zinnia species)
~Bromeliads:

*Aechmea fasciata (Urn plants/Silver Vase Bromeliad) – Large

*Billbergia nutans – (queens Tears) partial shade to bright indirect light

*Cryptanthus zonatus (Earth stars) – warm, humid, bright light

*Guzmania lingulata – warm, humid, bright light

*Nidularium – 12-15 inches, low to Med. Light

*Tillandsia – Air plant, warm & humid

*Vrisea splendens (sword bromeliads) Light shade


~Other Plants:

*Acalphya (copperleafs, chenille plants)

*Adiantum (maidenhair ferns) – cool and dry in winter

*Aglaonema (Chinese evergreens) – do well in low lights, highly recommended

*Alocasia (elephant ears) – must be kept moist, humid and warm, will either not do well or overgrow everything

*Asplenium (Bird’s nest fern) – moist soil, up to 3 feet high

*Bamboo - (live or dry) please the the Wikipedia article, way to much intresting info to list! Clippings will produice.

*Beaucarnea recurvata - (Ponytail Palms)

*Calathea zebrine - (Zebra plant) – moist moderate temps, moderate light

*Ceropegia woodii - (Rosary Vine,Hearts entangled, or String of hearts) Water thoroughly, and then allow the soil to completely dry out before watering again.

*Chlorophytum (spider plants) – average humidity, moderate light, should be allowed to get almost dry before watering

*Cissus (kangaroo vines, grape ivys) – no moist soil

*Codiaeum variegatum (often confused for Croton, because of this it is often labeled "croton" as a common name)

*Crassula ovata - (Jade Plant, Friendship tree or Money plant)Clippings will produice.

*Cyrtomium - (Holly ferns)

*Dracaena - (Dragon plants)

*Ficus (rubber trees, ornamental figs) should be washed of when dirty, do wellin spotlight, Use caution with any plant of the ficus family that has a "milky sap" when leafs/stems are broken, it is a skin and eye irratant.

*Maranta - (prayer plant) warm temps, high humidity

*Peperomia - (radiator plant) some in this family are an epiphyte or air plant. Clippings will generaly produice.

*Radermachera sinica - (China Doll)very difficult to root, Growth slowers used by nurserys will grow fast and less bushy.

*Sanseveria - (Snake Plants)aethiopica,caniculata,kirkii pulchra, parva, pinguicula, sinularis, thyrsiflora & trifasciata

*Scindapsus (Pothos) - looks like philodendron, very hardy. Clippings will produice.

*Schefflera arboricola - (Umbrella Plant)

*Spathiphyllum - (peace lilies)

*Tradescantia zebrina - (wandering Jew/ spiderwart) Can cause skin iritation in humans when handeld frequently. Clippings will produice. Called inch plant because it can grow up to an inch a day!


My advice for the bromeliads is not to plant them directly in the earth as I have had problems with them rotting at the base as they get too wet, I now bury the plant pot and they seem to do better.


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

Might put the broms on the floor then. Was thinking originally to cut a hole into the backing and planting the brom in that but if it's going to rot I'm not going to bother. 

I don't think I'm brave enough to make a background from scratch.

ETA:

Which of those plants are tall and strong enough for them to climb? Most of the ones I've picked up seem to be more floor coverage


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## Spikebrit (Oct 23, 2006)

hannah87 said:


> Might put the broms on the floor then. Was thinking originally to cut a hole into the backing and planting the brom in that but if it's going to rot I'm not going to bother.
> 
> I don't think I'm brave enough to make a background from scratch.
> 
> ...


Have a look at ficus pumelia (small leafed quick climber)m pothos (large leafed climber with vine like stems, wonder jew of inch plant are medium fast growing plants that look really nice. 

The best way to create a background on the cheap is with gurilla glue and soil, andthen grow moss on top. there is some info on it on Just Airplants. 

If you have broms from the shop they are most likly guzmania, which can be grown find from a pot or tied to branches etc

jay


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

To be fair, the poly Exo backgrounds don't 'rot' as such; they do tend to get a bit more crumbley over (extended) time, and things like crickets chew on them, but if your planting is thick enough, you won't see most of it.


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

Ron Magpie said:


> To be fair, the poly Exo backgrounds don't 'rot' as such; they do tend to get a bit more crumbley over (extended) time, and things like crickets chew on them, but if your planting is thick enough, you won't see most of it.


Cricks aren't a prob in the Crestie viv as mine will only eat Repashy or mashed fruit, only the Tokays eat cricks. I want it planted fairly thick but no so's it looks cluttered or you hardly see the little fellas as they're not out much as it is :lol2:


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

hannah87 said:


> Cricks aren't a prob in the Crestie viv as mine will only eat Repashy or mashed fruit, only the Tokays eat cricks. I want it planted fairly thick but no so's it looks cluttered or you hardly see the little fellas as they're not out much as it is :lol2:


Within reason, shy animals seem to actually be a bit bolder if they can retreat; it gives them some basic security, which increases their confidence. This isn't a total rule, but sometimes it works!


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

That makes sense. Off to get some drainage then I'm going to make a start! Will add pics too


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

One viv done  No pics at mo as can't find the chuffing camera cable!

Got some hydroleca, about an inch ish, mixed with a couple of handfuls of orchid bark for the drainage layer. Put some of the anti weed stuff on top then layered it up with compost/eco earth/bark (more than I thought I'd need!). 

I arranged a couple of pieces of bogwood in one corner and filled that with compost mix to create a bit of a platform, this has the peace lilly in the corner, the cork bark wedged in it and a spider plant in front of the cork bark.

The fig is in the back corner, and the MiL's tongue is in front of that (there's a decent gap) but it'll look better when the fig has grown as at the mo the MiL's tongue is taller, it didn't look right the other way round though. The bromeliad ended up in the front left corner and I've scattered some sphagnum moss around the floor.

It doesn't look like there's much in there and that it's all ground cover but once the plants have grown a bit it'll look much better. Didn't know whether to arrange some of my fake plants at the top of the viv until the live ones have progressed?

Tokay's weren't impressed at being picked up and moved but they seem quite happy hiding behind the cork bark and under the lilly. One of the girls was under the brom but moved when she saw the camera lol. The Crestie's are not impressed with their temporary accommodation lol, they're in the 30x30x45 because I emptied both vivs then remembered that I've not got a background in the second one :lol2:

I wish now I took pics as I went along instead of once I'd finished but ho hum.

ETA: How much should I water them alongside being misted?


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

How much to water is difficult; it depends on the plants. You may have trouple with the mother-in-laws tongue; it generally likes it drier than the other plants. Also, if the bromeliad is planted in the soil it may suffer- depending on what species it is, it may do better fixed to a branch or the back.

There's no reason at all that you can't use fake plants as well, if you want to!


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

The bromeliad is in the soil but it is still in the pot, it was suggested to me to leave it in the pot, I was going to attach it to the back but not sure how to do it?

Will see how the MILT fairs up, if it karks it I'll find something else


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

And one of three Tokays


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## sue59 (Oct 31, 2010)

Looking good, the plants will grow but I think you could make use of the upper part of the viv by using more logs and vines. My mother in laws don't have a problem with the moisture level. I spray daily and water the plants directly when the eco earth is dryish. I have put on a couple of pics of mine to give you a idea of what I mean.

[IMG=http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/6345/img4266b.jpg][/IMG]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

[IMG=http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/9133/img4267d.jpg][/IMG]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

That makes mine look pants!!!

There's not a lot of floor space, mines a 45x45x60, not sure how to go about it - any ideas?


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## Spikebrit (Oct 23, 2006)

Your brom is a guzmania, and can be fine in the pot, make use fo the whole tanke, so fine some branches and vines and create cover and stuff. Use plats like inch plant, wondering jew and pothos to create back and side cover. 

You have your foalage plants in now look at climbers and higher level plants get some broms and air plant and fix these to the branches. 

There loads of room in tose vivs for plant lol. if i can do it with 12 inche cube you can with all that room

pics: http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/foru...odactylus-planted-habitat-enclosure-pics.html

Jay


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

That looks awesome too! Argh  :lol2:

How do you fix plants/branches to the sides? The back's easier as it's got the polystyrene to attach things to


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## Spikebrit (Oct 23, 2006)

hannah87 said:


> That looks awesome too! Argh  :lol2:
> 
> How do you fix plants/branches to the sides? The back's easier as it's got the polystyrene to attach things to


most tillies (air plants) and broms (look at pics from Just Airplants) dont use their roots system for anything other then support. As such you can use wire and cotton to tie plants to branches etc. then us sheet moss to cover it. if you look at the pictures on just air plants reptile section (my one lol) i have some showing you how its done. 

jay


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## sue59 (Oct 31, 2010)

These are my two 45 x 45 x 60 live planted vivs 



Uploaded with ImageShack.us




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I started with just a few plants and have added bits un bobs over a period of time.:2thumb:


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

Yup mine look pants!! 

I like the idea with the bamboo, is that just wedged in?


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## sue59 (Oct 31, 2010)

Yes it is , I tried to cut it as close to the right size as I could , then with a bit of brute force and ignorance it fitted. I was alittle worried about cracking the glass but it's quite solid thankfully :lol2:


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

Think I'm pinching that idea then!! :lol2:

We're moving next Saturday so got to wait now though 

Then there's my Beardie viv....


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

A trick I use to fit bamboo across a tank, cut it a little bit short, then cut an inch or two of smaller diameter bamboo, or a piece of plastic tube, that just fits inside the bigger one.

That gives you a telescopic section at one end that you can adjust for an exact fit before siliconing it in place.


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

Graham said:


> A trick I use to fit bamboo across a tank, cut it a little bit short, then cut an inch or two of smaller diameter bamboo, or a piece of plastic tube, that just fits inside the bigger one.
> 
> That gives you a telescopic section at one end that you can adjust for an exact fit before siliconing it in place.


That's a good idea, thanks


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## sue59 (Oct 31, 2010)

Thats why I make it fit tight I haven't used any silicon as if I change my mind I can just take it out without having to battle to remove the silicon :lol2:


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

Silicone comes away easily with a sharp blade, just did some the other day with a fresh Stanley blade, it took seconds.


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## sue59 (Oct 31, 2010)

Graham said:


> Silicone comes away easily with a sharp blade, just did some the other day with a fresh Stanley blade, it took seconds.


 You haven't seen me with a sharp blade, poor fingers :lol2:


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

Ok couldn't wait until we moved to plant the Crestie viv so here it is:










Put some fake plants at the top until I can afford some more real ones 

Tweaked the Tokay viv too, put a branch in and a couple of fakes too. You can't really see the branch cos it's under the plant on the left:


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## sue59 (Oct 31, 2010)

Once you start you will contune to add things and change the plants , it becomes an obsession :lol2:


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## hannah87 (Nov 13, 2011)

sue59 said:


> Once you start you will contune to add things and change the plants , it becomes an obsession :lol2:


A bit like collecting reps? Should I warn the other half now :whistling2:


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

hannah87 said:


> A bit like collecting reps? Should I warn the other half now :whistling2:


Too late, darlin, you got the bug, now!:lol2:


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## sue59 (Oct 31, 2010)

Ron Magpie said:


> Too late, darlin, you got the bug, now!:lol2:



Agreed :lol2:


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