# Worried about my anole's habitat setup--help?



## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

I’m worried about my green anole’s current habitat setup. This is my first reptile, and I’ve researched about them but all the sites seem to conflict and be confusing.


*-=Habitat Description=-*

-7-gallon plastic tank (but looks more like 5-gallons than 7-gallons..! Pic here: All Living Things® Anole Starter Kit - Habitats & Accessories - PetSmart) with lid (26.4 L)
-the lid is plastic and has an attached light fixture containing 5 watt incandescent bulb
-fake ivy plant on one end
-thermometer and hygrometer on plant's side
-another thermometer and climbing vines for basking on other side
-water dish
-substrate flooring

To reiterate, it's a 7-gallon plastic tank (but looks like a 5-gallon one) with a plastic lid and an attached light fixture shining down with a 5 watt incandescent bulb. On the left side is a fake ivy plant with a suction cup against the wall of the tank. This is the 'cool' side of the tank, providing shade if the anole wants. On the back wall of the tank, nearly in the center but a little more toward the left, is a thermometer and hygrometer. The right side is the 'warm' side/basking area. There are some leafless vines he can climb up on in order to bask (yet he rarely seems to go on these). On the wall where the heater is stuck to the side with the adhesive it came with is another thermometer, to judge the basking area's temperature. The water dish is shallow and sitting in the center of the cage. The floor has regular substrate.

*-=Terrarium=-*
*
I'm using a plastic terrarium--is this okay?

Also, should I be concerned that my terrarium is 7 gallons and not 10 gallons?*


*-=Heating=-*

Daytime:

The 'cool' side of the tank is 90 F degrees, 5 degrees higher than what sites say the temperature should be, but it's hot where I live. *Is this temperature adequate or too hot? If it needs to be lowered, would turning on my overhead fan until the temperature drops to 75-85 F help?*

The 'warm' side of the tank is always 5 degrees warmer due to a heater that sticks to the side of the tank. So while the cool side is 90 F, the basking side is 95 F. *Is this also too hot?* If I drop the temperature in the room to 80-85 F, the warm side will become 85-90 F, which sites say is a good temperature for basking during the day. The reason the heater is a low-powered one is because of the terrarium being plastic.

Nighttime:

The 'cool' side of the tank is 70 F degrees--sites say this is good.

The 'warm' side of the tank, always being 5 degrees warmer, is 75 F. Sites don't say what the temperature should be on the warm side, at night. *Is 75 F appropriate or too cold? What is the appropriate temperature for the nighttime basking area?*

*-=Lighting=-*

Regular Lighting:
The only light source I have is an incandescent 5 watt that shines down in the middle of the cage from the lid. Correct me if I'm wrong, but sites say this should be a fluorescent "full spectrum" UVA and UVB bulb, and that the commercial 5% bulbs are fine. *Should I switch out this incandescent one for a fluorescent full spectrum bulb?*

Basking Lighting:
There is also mention of having an incandescent bulb (typically 40-60 watts) with a dome-reflector or "gooseneck" lamp that points in one corner of the cage at a large branch, or rock. I do not have this. *Is this light necessary? Is my heater fine for the daytime or do I need to swap it out for a heat lamp during the day?*

*Is there anything else I should know? Any other mistakes I've made?*


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

Anoles

Green anoles

Green Anoles (Anolis carolinensis)


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## LauraMartin (Apr 15, 2008)

hey, i dont know anything about anoles, but advice i can give you on temperature is that if the cool side is too hot, that is gonna stress any animal, your fan would prob help like u said, but to be honest, i think the tank is too small to fully regulate the temp, the cool side isnt far away enough from the hot side. maybe work on trying to find a bigger tank, you can still use all the stuff you got with that one, n just find a cheap larger tank. also i would think that you would need full spectrum, but again i dont have anoles so not 100%.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

i'd just get an aquarium with a screen top, a uv light and a small basking light. keep it in the neighborhood of 80f and the anoles will be happy. they need to cool down at night. remember that it gets cold where they are from... 60f-70f at night.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

HABU said:


> Anoles
> 
> Green anoles
> 
> Green Anoles (Anolis carolinensis)


Thank you, but I've already seen these sites. I've done a lot of research by reading all sorts of web pages on anoles, and as far as I can tell, the information often conflicts.

For example, one site says "They are arboreal so the heat source should come from above. This is done with ceramic heat emitters, or incandescent light bulbs."
--Helpful to me considering I just have a heat emitter and no heat lamp (which is hard to have with a plastic terrarium).

Then another site says you should have two heat sources during the day.

So that is why I am posting here, to ask anole owners for some straight answers.

My options are a little limited since the terrarium is plastic and not glass. For example, it's harder to have an actual heat lamp heat up a basking area, 18" away from the tank, without heating up the plastic top and threatening to make it melt.



LauraMartin said:


> hey, i dont know anything about anoles, but advice i can give you on temperature is that if the cool side is too hot, that is gonna stress any animal, your fan would prob help like u said, but to be honest, i think the tank is too small to fully regulate the temp, the cool side isnt far away enough from the hot side. maybe work on trying to find a bigger tank, you can still use all the stuff you got with that one, n just find a cheap larger tank. also i would think that you would need full spectrum, but again i dont have anoles so not 100%.


No, it's good advice. I felt bad that the tank was so small (I didn't know my gallon sizes very well and after I bought it, realized it wasn't at all close to a 10-gallon) and it being plastic is not helping me one bit. It's ironic that this was called an Anole Starter Kit because it's just not very thoughtful toward reptiles.



HABU said:


> i'd just get an aquarium with a screen top, a uv light and a small basking light. keep it in the neighborhood of 80f and the anoles will be happy. they need to cool down at night. remember that it gets cold where they are from... 60f-70f at night.


Keep what 80 F, the basking area or the cool area?

You know how some of those aquariums have the screen top and a light tube along it? Would I make sure that's the one with the fluorescent UV light?

And then set up a basking light in the inside corner of the glass, high up where the anole can't reach it?

During the nighttime, do I turn off all heat sources or leave them on? And not a basking light, I mean, but turn on an under tank thermal heater?


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

they just need a regular old light bulb to bask in... easy as pie. i've kept and caught many green anoles. they are undemanding but they hide in the wild when it gets too hot. if they hit 80f-85f during the day they are fine. they are used to wild fluctuations in temps.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

here in the states, a 10 gallon aquarium costs less than $20. a screen lid about the same. i never did like those plastic jobs. you'll have much more control with a tank... a 20 gallon high is great for anoles...


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

You post very quick. I edited my last post to respond also to the two posts before it. The reason I definitely would need to use UV bulb is because I'm keeping my anole out of the natural sunlight. I live in the states as well, on the east coast, and it gets very hot here; I don't want my anole to be burned, I'd rather regulate a temperature instead.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

keeping them in a glass or plastic cage in the sun can cook them if you are not careful. a uv bulb is a must for these guys. i used to use compact uv bulbs... they are just screw in bulbs.. will work with any cheap reflector and will sit right on top of the tank's screen lid.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

also uv rays don't like traveling through most glass or plastic. supplements are very important too.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

i pulled this from a site:

*Housing*









Although green anoles are rather small, they require a fairly large cage because they are very active lizards. For example, a 10-gallon aquarium is really only big enough to house one green anole. Anoles enjoy climbing and jumping, so an enclosure with a lot of vertical space is best, and this type of housing will allow you the best view of your pet. The top of the cage should be made of one-quarter inch wire mesh.
The bottom of the tank should be covered with a substrate that retains some moisture. Potting soil, top soil, bark mulch, and recycled paper are all good choices. Using soil as a substrate can also help to decorate your tank, as it is easy to get plants to grow in a soil substrate. One of the best plants to have in a terrarium is a philodendron, because they are attractive and almost indestructible. Schefflera, bromeliads, and a variety of vines also make nice additions to terrariums. 
Lighting and heating are vital components of a green anole enclosure. A full-spectrum fluorescent light should be placed right above the lid of the cage. These lights will provide a light that is very similar to natural sunlight, including ultraviolet light, which promotes calcium metabolism. In addition, you should place an incandescent light at one end of the cage to provide heat. By placing it on one side of the cage, your green anole can self-regulate his internal temperature. The basking area should be about 90°F, while the rest of the tank should average a temperature of approximately 72 to 80°F.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

this might help you:

Caring for your new green Anole, Anoles carolensis, with pictures

Green Anole (Green Anoles)--Stop 31


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

Okay, I'm starting to understand. The main light for the cage is the fluorescent "full spectrum" (or at least UVB) light, which gives off healthy light. The basking light is the incandescent light, which gives off heat. 

For the incandescent, is there some setup that allows one to be perched in the corner of the cage? And with a 10-gallon, it's long enough to just affect that half of the cage, right?

And it says the fluorescent should be placed on top of the cage--there are some setups of the screen lids that allow this, I'm sure I've seen that, so that will help!

Let me know if I'm wrong.

Hmm... so at night, is there still a warm basking area? Like, do I turn off the basking light and turn on a heat emitter?


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

your florescent light must be a U.V. light and both it and the small incandescent light will fit in these types of lamps that you can get at walmart...


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

put the lights on one side of the screen top while the other side is well ventilated and cool.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

You mean something like this?:









I have a fluorescent bulb but it's 75 watts and is UVA. How much wattage does the bulb need to be, and does it have to supply both UVA and UVB or just UVB?


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

TwilightRealm said:


> Place both of the lights on one side then? Or can I do something like this?:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
i was about to post this pic but you beat me to it.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

i am just pasting this for you. it may help you to understand the light better.


No lamp is truly "full spectrum", but some get closer to this ideal than others. The pet trade today has responded to the need of adequate care and has responded by developing a wide range of fluorescent tubes that are specifically designed for use with reptiles. Some of course are better than others in both intensity and quality of light emitted. There are three main properties that are needed for healthy reptiles and they are as follows: 
UVB output – necessary to vitamin D3 synthesis and the calcium metabolism; 
Color temperature - nothing to do with heat, but rather the color from 'warm' red to 'cold' blue expressed in degrees Kelvin. Daylight at noon is typically estimated at 5,500 K. At the tropics, or in a desert, the color temperature can reach 6,500 K. 
UVA output - many reptiles are believed to be able to see into the UVA range (320-400 nm), and this is likely to have a profound effect upon behavior, and specifically, how they see. 
Color Rendering Index: Color rendering is the degree to which a light source shows the true colors of the objects it illuminates. This is measured on a color rendering index, rated from 0-100. A normal fluorescent lamp, for example, rates 54 on the CRI scale. High quality fluorescent lamps designed for reptile use will rate 80-90 on the same scale. Color rendering is very important as many reptiles rely upon color signals for reproductive and feeding purposes. 
The combination of sufficient UVA content and a 'natural' >5,500°K color temperature is most probably the reason why so many keepers report a marked improvement in activity patterns and feeding when high quality full spectrum lighting systems are utilized in enclosures. In addition to the quality of the lamp, its proximity to the animal, its output intensity and duration of use are also critical.
The illumination intensity of tubes is primarily dependent upon their size. A 24" tube producers less than half the light output of a 48" tube. Do not expect to be able to provide adequate levels of lighting in a large cage using a single small tube. Also, do not fall into the belief that a “high-quality” pet store lighting fixture is necessary to properly operate a full spectrum tube, that florescent fixture that works with shop florescent lights works equally as well for your pet
It is important to understand that there should really be as little blocking the light from the bulb. UVB is greatly affected by aquarium glass, light covers, even screening, all of these cut down on the amount of quality light getting to your pet. The amount of UVB received is also affected by distance – and it does not take a lot of distance to diminish the quality of the UVB. It is generally recommended that full spectrum lights be no further than 18" away from cage bottom – or area that your pet resides. Examples – our bearded dragon is a cage floor dweller – so the measurement is to the cage bottom, the same holds true for turtle etc. We had a veiled chameleon that usually was somewhere at mid-cage range so we measured to mid-cage to judge the distance. Also, UVB lights do not really give off heat – so there is no real danger of an animal burning itself. It may be necessary to install lights in the cage if the cage is large and tall. If this is the case, you should place a screen cover to keep your pets from damaging the tube. 
Full spectrum lights have a life that is probably less than the actual life of the tube itself. You should change the tube at least once each year. Doing this every spring is good practice and you never need to “remember” when the tube needs to be replaced.

Full spectrum UVB tubes produced for reptile use are often classified according to their percentage UVB output. Tubes are available offering from 2% UVB to 8% UVB. The most popular tubes offer 3% or 5% UVB. In the vast majority of cases the 3% tubes are perfectly adequate, provided they are correctly sited, changed regularly, and a sufficient number of hours exposure permitted. For a 3-5% tube, 10-12 hours daily has proved a satisfactory level of exposure for most species. Concerns have been expressed about the safety of tubes with outputs greater than 5% - in particular, there may be a possibility of eye damage occurring with some tubes in some situations.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

This is great information by the way, it's really helping me. I can be a bit dense and sites don't usually spell things out that well.

Some sites say the fluorescent light bulb should be at least 5%, but I don't know how many watts that is. Other sites say 40-60, so I'm thinking maybe 75 watts it going to powerful. What do you think?

Also, this one site says that UVB is helpful but not essential, and that UVA helps the reptile's mental well being. Does that mean it's okay to have a UVA bulb or would you advice a full spectrum?


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

this is the U.V. bulb that i like for ease of use.











uvb is the most important thing and the uv output as you said is measured in %... 10% is a strong desert type bulb... anoles need like a 3%-5% bulb.

this explains it all ...it's kinda complicated...

Lighting and heating for reptiles: They are not the same thing


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

The really long part you pasted about the UVA/UVB is really confusing me. I'm pretty ADD when it comes to a lot of information at once. It sounds like they're saying UVA and UVB is good? And that it should be 18" up from where the reptile is going to be, so that a high aquarium is going to be good. Didn't get much else, it had a lot of techno talk and things that went right over my head.

Thank you too for the link, but.. so much information.. so many terms... my head is going to explode. I was conned by a greedy anole seller into thinking anoles were low maintenance. I found out otherwise, of course, but now I'm just trying my best to keep my anole pleased and alive. What a headache.

How about I do this. I get a 10 gallon aquarium, with a mesh screen top. I get a long fluorescent UVB tube light, and then position my other lamp on the other side and put in an incandescent light for basking. Sound good?

What watt or % do I get each bulb as?

I'm dense, I know.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

uvb is what they need for strong bones... uva is primarily for behavior...

without uvb a diurnal lizard can't absorb calcium properly.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

I see. So really what they need is uvb over uva, uva is just optional.

And the incandescent bulb would be 40-60 watts, and the fluorescent bulb would be 5-10%?


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

TwilightRealm said:


> I see. So really what they need is uvb over uva, uva is just optional.
> 
> And the incandescent bulb would be 40-60 watts, and the fluorescent bulb would be 5-10%?


 
for a small tank, a 40 watt or less is good... you have to tinker with the setup and check the thermometer in order to get things exactly right. the ambient temp in the room impacts the eventual heat in the cage. i never use thermostats. play with the wattages of the incandescent light and placement of it. also a 5% uv bulb is fine for anoles... also a dimmer switch is useful. *a desk lamp comes in handy for a basking light..*


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

A dimmer switch for which? For the fluorescent bulb? Because I already have the lamp for the incandescent.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

TwilightRealm said:


> A dimmer switch for which? For the fluorescent bulb? Because I already have the lamp for the incandescent.


 you can't dim a florescent lamp... i'd use a desk lamp with the incandescent and then you can control things just by moving it closer or farther away from the cage.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

Sounds good because buying an additional dimmer switch would just be a bit more of a drain on my money. I bought the Anole Starter Kit only to find it's all wrong; spent more than $100 in supplies and now I have to redo most of it, so I'm looking to try and use as much of the old setup as I can. My wallet is starting to hurt.

I think I'd like to do what's in that picture I linked. Rest both desk lamp with incandescent bulb (40w) and tank light holder with fluorescent bulb (5%, UVB) on the mesh screen, and make sure the cage is about 15-18 in. high and is a 10-gallon one. I can use the vertical fake ivy I already have as part of the 'cool' side, add another fake plant with some fake branches for some more horizontal support and closer toward the basking side. Was thinking of still having a thermometer and humidity gauge on the cool side and a thermometer on the basking side.

This is the shopping list I've devised now:
 10-gallon aquarium
 wire mesh top
 holder for fluorescent UVB bulb
 40 watt incandescent bulb for heat
 5% fluorescent UVB bulb for light
 -should be no further than 18" away from cage bottom or area where pet resides

 horizontal fake plant perch
I already have:

desk lamp for incandescent bulb
vertical fake plant
shallow water dish
substrate
2 thermometers, 1 humidity gauge
small crickets
cricket food (contains water)
calcium dust
cricket container with tubes
Two questions.

First is, when I turn off the basking light at night, does there still have to be a warm side to the cage? If so, how do I provide the heat?

Second question is, does my anole need a black light, for the nighttime? I know regular lights are going to irritate and stress him, and prevent him from sleeping, but I read about reptiles needed a black light at night. If they need this, for what reason do they?


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

sounds good... a 20 gallon 'high' aquarium is way better than a ten gallon though... you'll be glad you got a 20 instead of a ten gallon if you get one... just way more space to work with. a 10 is a little cramped.


you are getting close, if you master this, to being well prepared for a chameleon.

also, i always fed my feeder insects with a high quality tropical fish food.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

I tried google imaging some 20-gallon and 10-gallon aquariums to see the difference, but it seems they come in all sorts of sizes equaling 10 or 20 gallons. I guess I'll have to see what the pet store has tomorrow. I'd like an aquarium about 15-18" high, but I also want it to be wide so the anole has room. They say 10 gallons is good for a single anole, and 20 gallons is good if you want two. I was just going to keep my anole solitary, because I think he's a male, and because I don't want to mate him.

Do you use a secondary heat source when it's lights out time (night)? And/or a black light at night for your lizards?

I've been feeding my crickets Fluker's calcium fortified cricket quencher. It looks like yellow jello and is very moist. I read that you need some food that's hydrated or food and a separate very very shallow water bowl because if crickets don't keep hydrated, they turn carnivorous and try to eat each other, or worse, your anole (which is one reason why I only give my anole 3 crickets every other day). Once a week I coat them with calcium dusting before I put them in his tank.

Not sure if I ever want to get another reptile. They seem high maintenance, and I'm not much of a reptile person. To be honest, when I saw this anole being thrust into people's hands at the Renaissance Faire by a 'baby dragon dealer,' I felt really bad. He was one of the lizards that were getting shown and passed around, and he was dark brown with stress. I didn't know much about reptiles to know that the dark skin color meant, I just knew emotionally that he just really wanted to be elsewhere, so I bought him and took him home. Now I'm just trying my best to accommodate his needs and give him a good life.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

20 gallon High...24" x 12" x 16"

anoles are good at room temp at night... unless it is really cold where you are... 60-65 degrees at night isn't a problem.

anoles are easy.. it may seem like a lot but basicly it's a couple lights on an aquarium and screen lid....... get a spray bottle and read care sheets.... you'll see the common thread in care sheets and that's what is correct.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

It's pretty warm here, naturally. I haven't had my fan on for days because I thought it'd be too cold for him, but once I get the aquarium and the lights in, I'll be able to bring down the temperature just a little by turning on the overhead fan, make sure it's still in a good temperature range for him, and keep my room cozy at the same time.

I had wanted to keep his habitat on the shelf right next to my bed so I could watch him but when I move too suddenly or when my cat sits on the bed and stares at him, it seems to unnerve him. I think I'll move his new aquarium across the room and onto a 4-shelved bookcase, the cat would have a harder time reaching the cage then.

Thank you, by the way, for putting up with all my questions and helping me out, I appreciate it. Tomorrow I'll do some pet supply shopping at the local pet store. Now, bedtime!


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

they'll get tame and mellow after a while.. will even climb up on you... pretty fearless for a little lizard.


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## lola (Dec 11, 2007)

WOW......

I've just read all through this amazing and informative thread - I really reckon it's worth making this a 'sticky' or at the very least transferring or copying it to the 'caresheets' section   

I've got a cuban knight anole, but this has made me start thinking about the little anoles again :whistling2:

Habu you are an absolute mine of good useful practical information :no1::no1:


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## DeanThorpe (Apr 9, 2006)

so whats your room temperature then?
if its over the max cool end temp for an anole then you really need to seriously think about not housing an anole in that room.

Maybe look at the smallest basking bulb you can get, like 25watts...

so you are in the usa right?
im not sure how uv tubes coem over there, but here they are in % like 2,5,10%...

you defo wana go larger than ten gallons if you can, and it should b, as habu said more arboreal than not.
[so higher than it is wide]

to limit the heat to the cool end you could set the basking light not only in the warm end... but also facing [angled holder?] the warm end wall.

[  *~**0*/ ]

Squiggle illustrates the way the bulbs rays are facing..but at a downwards angle of course.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

I bought and set up a 20-gallon aquarium with fluorescent and incandescent light coming down from on top. The incandescent one is a 24-hour infrared bulb; I checked some sites and they said it would be fine as a minimal heat source, and considering it's already often hot here where I live (and mostly warm even in winter), that should be fine. I've been keeping an eye on the thermometers, and the temperatures for the cool and warm sides of the tank are good.

After I set up the habitat, I transferred my anole in, and gave him a bit of time to get used to it. He crawled around and checked it out. Then I fed him some crickets and he promptly ate them. There's plenty of space for him to move around and plenty of perches he can climb.



DeanThorpe said:


> so whats your room temperature then?
> if its over the max cool end temp for an anole then you really need to seriously think about not housing an anole in that room.
> 
> Maybe look at the smallest basking bulb you can get, like 25watts...
> ...


During the day it's around 70-75 F for most the apartment, and around 85-90 F outside. If the temperature starts getting too high, I can just turn on my overhead fan to a low or medium setting. Typically we never let it get too hot in the apartment anyway, and it only gets cold if I have my fan on too long and on too high a setting, which I stopped doing when I got my anole. Even though I got a 50w bulb, I've been keeping an eye on the temperature. Right now it's in a very good range.

I'm in the USA, yep, and fluorescent bulbs are in percents here too.

The 20-gallon I got is wider than it is high, instead, but there's still plenty of perches and vertical climbing space. I estimate it's about 15 in. high, and the sites say that the light and heat sources should be no farther than 18 in. anyway from where the bottom of the tank or the anole itself is. There's also a lot of fake plant leaves to provide shading.

Most I've read about anoles say they like their light sources to come from above. The tank is long enough that the basking light can keep to its own half of the cage.


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## DeanThorpe (Apr 9, 2006)

cool.
The only thing i think you could do to improve it now is switch the infa red bulb for a white light bulb of the same wattage [thus giving off same heat]
as they like to bask in light/heat as most do.
however they will "get on" with a red bulb fine ,especially if the basking area is well lit by the uv tube...which is why id recomend a tube rather than one of the ceramic compact uv lamps.


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## DeanThorpe (Apr 9, 2006)

ps-

did you buy them or grab them from outside?
how many do you have again? you should wait for them to settle in thne take a coupel of pics to share with the people here.
oh, how is your humidity? its easy to keep in aglass tank so im sure you have no probs gettin it where it should be.

what wattage is the basking bulb? [red yes?] and what basking temp are you gettin now do you know?


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## dragon123 (Apr 3, 2008)

yeah i agree with lola, this thread should be put in the caresheet section because it has loads of questions all with answers 


moderators please make it a sticky or on caresheet section 

thanks :no1:


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

DeanThorpe said:


> cool.
> The only thing i think you could do to improve it now is switch the infa red bulb for a white light bulb of the same wattage [thus giving off same heat]
> as they like to bask in light/heat as most do.
> however they will "get on" with a red bulb fine ,especially if the basking area is well lit by the uv tube...which is why id recomend a tube rather than one of the ceramic compact uv lamps.


It's a compact fluorescent terrarium canopy, but it's also 11.8" x 3.5" x 5.9" with a 26 W 5.0 compact UVB bulb. The whole terrarium's lit up, especially since I put this lamp as close to the center of the cage as I could.

He hasn't gone over to his basking area yet, never did in the old tank either, is this normal? I'm wondering if it's just warm enough for him as it is, or if he wants to stay in direct light (instinctively he may think that light gives off the heat, and be sticking to that, in which I will have to switch out the red light for a regular incandescent one).



DeanThorpe said:


> ps-
> 
> did you buy them or grab them from outside?
> how many do you have again? you should wait for them to settle in thne take a coupel of pics to share with the people here.
> ...


I'd never take a creature from outside and try to captivate it, unless of certain situations where it had to be rescued from a harsh environment. I bought mine, I just have the one male green anole. I was never much of a reptile person before but I didn't like the conditions the anole was being kept in. He was being used as a sampler pet at a Renaissance faire by a "baby dragon" dealer who was thrusting him into people's hands to hold while telling people misleading information such as "These are really cheap to maintain, they just need some anole food and water," "You can tell the females, they have a white stripe," and "They love to be held." The one I was given to hold was a very very dark brown, and it just felt like he'd give anything to be away from this crowd of loud excited children and curious adults.

Anyway, the humidity says 50% (bare minimum for anoles, sites say). The temperature on the cool side is 75 F, and the temperature in the basking area (during both day and night) is 80 F. And yep, the tank is glass, _so_ much better than that last one. I hadn't done enough research the first time I went to buy supplies and saw the "Anole Starter Kit" which contained a 7-gallon plastic cage. Sheesh, that thing's going on craigslist.com.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

:crazy: i hope my advice wasn't too hillbilly for anyone!:lol2:


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

HABU said:


> :crazy: i hope my advice wasn't too hillbilly for anyone!:lol2:


Nah, it was extremely helpful, especially for dense people like me! I usually have the hardest time understanding people.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

My anole is clinging to the screen lid, upside-down, right under the fluorescent light. Does this mean that he thinks the heat will come from the light, and is ignoring the basking light because it's infrared?


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

Guess too much time has passed since my last post, because it won't let me edit/add on to my last post.

Anyway, now my lizard is in the basking area, laying on one of the fake logs. The time here is 2:30 AM, and the current basking temperature is 80 degrees (because it doesn't take much with how warm it is here, naturally). I'm not worried about him burning himself because he's not too close to the infrared light, and because it's only 5 degrees higher than the other side of the cage.

Thing is, he's brown (he's usually green).

Can't have to do with the temperature because it's warm enough.

Is he trying to blend in with the log he's laying on? I don't know if anoles ever change color to blend in with the environment, or if their color is used just to signify status of temperature/health/mood.

If not that, then maybe he is possibly stressed? If he is, it could have to do with me still having on his daytime fluorescent light, which I've just remembered to turn off.

His infrared basking light is still on, and I can see him, but I won't be able to see if he turns green until tomorrow (and I don't want to just turn on the light to check, because he looks like he's trying to get to sleep now).

Sometimes I wonder if I keep him up--I often stay up 'til 3-4 AM, playing music at a low to medium volume, and working at the computer, and then sleep in until the afternoon (one reason I'm thinking of getting a timer for his fluorescent lighting). At night his eyes close, and generally open when I move around.

My roommate suggested I change his schedule to mine (switching off the lights when I go to bed and switching them back on when I wake up) but I just can't do that, it's not fair to him. If my schedule is going to start stressing him, I'm going to have to change mine, and in the meantime get him a timer for his lights so that he can have a normal schedule to begin with.

I'm happy he's at least gone over to check the basking area, because I think it's a nice setup.

Oi.. and I forgot to take pictures of his new setup during the day. Tomorrow I'll try to remember.

Edit: Bugger me, I shined my desk lamp in his direction to see his skin coloring--it's been changing back to green, but I woke him up. I have a feeling he wasn't in deep sleep yet anyway, with me being up. His eyes have gone and closed again. I'm a horrible person. D:


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

sounds like things are going well. don't worry too much about the brown color. i have often seen them brown while basking. he's likely just soaking up the rays. just watch out if it gets really hot.. they almost turn white when they are too hot. also a little music won't hurt him as long as it's not blaring on him. they get used to thinks. wait as time goes on how he gets comfortable... you might want to get him a girlfriend.:crazy:


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## DeanThorpe (Apr 9, 2006)

will say this...
the basking area needs to be 95f....and white. [preferabley]

if his cool end is 75f and the bask only 80...thats noot enough diffeence in temps to attract him to the red bulb..so he is just looking for soem heat full stop...he assumes if he gets close to the white light he will get it.

please correct the conditions in the vivarium as described to offer a cool end of 80f or under AND basking site by a white reflector bulb angling down at one end of the viv if possible where the light shines on the furnishings and measures 95f.

i only skimmed your last post, anoles dont change colour for any reasons of blending in no, its all about temp and mood.


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## DeanThorpe (Apr 9, 2006)

habu..she keeps saying she only has an 80f bask.


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

DeanThorpe said:


> habu..she keeps saying she only has an 80f bask.


yeah, that can be bumped up some but i have no idea how accurate her temp measurements are. if it IS just 80f it's not optimum but she's new and still feeling her way around. 80 is better than 110f. she may want to move the lamp a bit closer. they can handle a few 80f days, they are temperate reptiles after all. but you are right.

here is the weather today in south carolina.... 
*51°F*
*Clear*
Wind: NE at 0 mph
Humidity: 90%

Sun








76°F | 47°F
Mon








77°F | 50°F
Tue








77°F | 52°F
Wed








79°F | 54°F​


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## DeanThorpe (Apr 9, 2006)

have you seen a pic of the set up yet? im wondering if maybe the bulb isnt positioned to offer the bask correctly as i think the author said it wa sin the middle...a pic would help..it may be as simple as lifting a perch closer to the basking area.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

The pictures have arrived!









































And at nighttime:


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

put a white light bulb in there and you'll have it all sewn up. looks good to me... a classic anole set-up a branch or two more would look sweet. don't forget to mist him with a spray bottle in the mornings... a 40 watt standard light bulb should bring his basking spot up a little past 90F.. he looks good..... a healthy male anole!!:no1: mist him and dust those small crickets.:no1::notworthy:


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

HABU said:


> put a white light bulb in there and you'll have it all sewn up. looks good to me... a classic anole set-up a branch or two more would look sweet. don't forget to mist him with a spray bottle in the mornings... a 40 watt standard light bulb should bring his basking spot up a little past 90F.. he looks good..... a healthy male anole!!:no1: mist him and dust those small crickets.:no1::notworthy:


The pet store doesn't carry 40-watt, is there someplace online that sells pet supplies and these bulbs? I've checked Petsmart.com and I'm not sure where else to look that I can trust. How about this one, would this be a good bulb? I also saw this bulb at the site, but it says slimline, and I'm not sure if that would work with my desk lamp. The other two daytime 40-watts the site had were blue so I haven't included those hyperlinks.

I found this list of branches for sale, which type of branches are you referring to? I know there's the small kinds and the larger kinds and they can be made of different materials, that's about all I know.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

Also, do you really think I should get him a female companion? I read that anoles were solitary creatures, but if I get him a female, will it be better for his health and mental state?


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## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

take a bulb out of one of your lamps if you have to. also a female or two would get things going. they hang around each other in the bushes and the males display and do the head bobbing thing. i'd keep a trio in that tank but that's just me.


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## TwilightRealm (Apr 18, 2008)

HABU said:


> take a bulb out of one of your lamps if you have to. also a female or two would get things going. they hang around each other in the bushes and the males display and do the head bobbing thing. i'd keep a trio in that tank but that's just me.


Wait, you mean a regular 60-watt bulb will work as a basking light? oo:

Oh even better! My reading lamp bulb was actually a 40 watt this WHOLE time! Ha!


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## DeanThorpe (Apr 9, 2006)

defo best to have it reflector/spot shaped though.
But it doesnt need to coem from a pet store no.


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