# Out-of-sight heating for wooden vivarium?



## biggiesmalls (Apr 24, 2017)

Hello everyone, 

Wondering what the best way to heat a wooden vivarium would be. I thought about a ceramic heat emitter or two, but I don't want to see them, so I can't hang them from the inside. And I want a flat surface on the top of the viv, so I can't put them on top there - so that is out. 

Perhaps I could build a false floor, and put some heat tape, rope, or a heat mat under there? I feel like that may be a fire hazard though...

Please let me know if you have any ideas. 
Thanks,
Drew


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## Rolls (Apr 7, 2018)

What are you keeping it there, would be helpful so we know how hot you need it.


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## biggiesmalls (Apr 24, 2017)

Rolls said:


> What are you keeping it there, would be helpful so we know how hot you need it.


Keeping a pair of leopard geckos, so in the range of 88-92 degrees on the ground at the warm hide, 82 or less on the warm end, and 75 or less on the cool end (air temps). 
I was thinking something like a radiant heat panel above the warm side of the enclosure - it would stay out of sight, and heat the enclosure well - nothing on top of it, nothing on the bottom of the cage, I think it's a winner. 
Would a radiant heat panel do this well?

Drew


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## Rolls (Apr 7, 2018)

Leos like belly heat rather than above, a heat mat with something on top like tiles would be ok, or some people put lino on top of the heat mat, as long as they can't touch it it's fine.


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## Rolls (Apr 7, 2018)

Must have a thermostat tho and as you already know a hot and cool end with hides at both.


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## biggiesmalls (Apr 24, 2017)

Rolls said:


> Leos like belly heat rather than above, a heat mat with something on top like tiles would be ok, or some people put lino on top of the heat mat, as long as they can't touch it it's fine.


I am aware that they like belly heat, but here is what I've never quite understood. "Belly heat" in the wild comes from the sun which is... above. It just heats whatever is below it, be it the substrate, a piece of wood, a rock, etc. So anything below a radiant heat panel should get warmed up, a thick substrate layer (planning to go bioactive) should hold that heat well and provide a nice hotspot. Just have the thermostat probe somewhere on the ground in the middle of the warm spot. Only thing might be whether the panel was powerful enough or not, that would be a question for the manufacturer most likely. 

And for anyone worried about the substrate, they won't be fed on this substrate. They've been kept on natural substrates (even straight sand) before, and they are going strong on 12 years old now. They eat in their own separate Rubbermaid containers three times a week, so there's no reason they would ingest any kind of substrate. 
This will be my first bioactive, so hopefully that goes well - can't wait to see how it performs. 

My main question is on the radiant heat panel at this point though - I see no reason why it won't work, logically - does anybody see a flaw there though?

Drew


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## Bindimatt (Sep 7, 2016)

Habistat (think its them) do a reptile radiator that mounts to the top of the viv and is designed to emit most of its heat out of the front face, a nice big piece of slate underneath insulated by a good substrate would do the job I'd have thought, might be worth a try.

Matt


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## Rolls (Apr 7, 2018)

I guess a lot of people on here will disagree with me but, I am all for creating a natural environment for an animal, replicating it's natural habitat in every way possible, but in the end it's not natural, so the use of heat lamps and the likes to heat up a substrate sounds all well and good but it simply isn't feasible to replicate the sun beating down on hundreds of square foot of earth and other natural objects, yes the ideal situation is to replicate what happens naturally but In the captive environment needs must be met if it's natural or not, this is where in my opinion compromises must be made.


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