# Cresty eggs



## em_40 (Sep 29, 2010)

I bred my crested gecko for the first time this year, she laid 2 eggs, they both looked OK at the begining but one was smaller than the other then it dimpled and I didn't think it had anything alive in it. I thnk that's normal for a first clutch? But the other one looked fine and has been doing well, but now it is on day 79 (If I've counted right) and it too has just started to dimple on the one side.
Has it died, right at the very end? do I need to cut t out or do I just leave it??


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## pigglywiggly (Jul 19, 2008)

could it be dehydrated a little?

how are you incubating them?

if they`re due to hatch crestieeggs get tiny fine little cracks and fissures in the surface of the egg, if you have a look really closely ( i used a led torch same as when candling ) and cant see them they`re probly a bit dry.


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## em_40 (Sep 29, 2010)

I'm using hatchright, it seems to have worked well so far, not needed to add water. It says they should hatch between 60 and 70 days, but I did keep them a bit cooler, so expected closer to 70 than 60... 

I will have a look to see if can see little cracks, thanks


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## pigglywiggly (Jul 19, 2008)

is your tub sealed with no airholes or are you useing a cricket tub?

if your tub has holes in you will need to add water as the hatchrite dries out. 
its easier to use a selaed tub and take the lid off once a week to change the air imo.

i incubate at rep room temp and mine take over 100 days.


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## em_40 (Sep 29, 2010)

I'm using a sealed cricket tub, with just one tiny air hole and I'm exchanging the air weekly. It's in a poly box with heat mat style incubator but it's also got a cardboard box and packaging because the poly box was huge (to fill the air space).
So I don't have to worry about them being over then because yours hatch ok after 100 days. I'm not sure if I can see can cracks as such, I can see sort of strained lines and there's sort of a little grey blemish. Should I try spraying incase it's just a bit dehydrated? The dip is just on the one side it's not at the top like I would have expected


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## pigglywiggly (Jul 19, 2008)

mine dont deflate at all before they hatch, they do get the streach marks all over the egg surface though for a week or so before they hatch.
i dont use an incy at all, just the normal room temps where the adults are kept. they can take well over 100 days to hatch too

as you have airholes it it could be a humidity issue, you could try spraying a tiny bit of water in the corner of the tub ( away from the eggs ) and seeing if they start to plump back up in a couple of days?


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## em_40 (Sep 29, 2010)

OK, will do, thanks


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## penda (Jul 22, 2009)

pigglywiggly said:


> is your tub sealed with no airholes or are you useing a cricket tub?
> 
> if your tub has holes in you will need to add water as the hatchrite dries out.
> its easier to use a selaed tub and take the lid off once a week to change the air imo.
> ...


i too incubate at room temp had 3 hatch so far this year 99 days, 100 and 109 days to hatch , i keep them in vented cricket tubs on vermiculite , my first couple batches this year were like yours , thhey were fine then just started to dent in , since then i have sprayed a lot more 2-3 times a week , not misting, actual spraying, and they have been fine since. hope this helps


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## penda (Jul 22, 2009)

and i actually spray the eggs direct , then they absorb and are fine


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## em_40 (Sep 29, 2010)

My room where my reps are is too hot, so they're in the bedroom (the coolest room) at normal peoples 'room temp'. I hope they are not lost yet and can be revived with spraying.


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## pigglywiggly (Jul 19, 2008)

out of interest how warms your rep room? 
just wondering as mine are in there and take forever to hatch.

i`ve got mine in sealed takeaway tubs on perlite same as i did my leos last year using albeys leo method.
works a treat!


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## em_40 (Sep 29, 2010)

pigglywiggly said:


> out of interest how warms your rep room?
> just wondering as mine are in there and take forever to hatch.
> 
> i`ve got mine in sealed takeaway tubs on perlite same as i did my leos last year using albeys leo method.
> works a treat!


Didn't see this post before, my room is about 76F right now, but it spikes up and down, I guess that wouldn't have mattered so much if I had still used the poly box but the box is big and didn't fit anywhere. In the room they are in now the heat mat often isn't on, but I just feel it keeps a better constant if it has to heat up to the right temp instead of possibly being over.


Unfortunately the eggs aren't plumping back up, and are starting to look discoloured on top now  any more suggestions??


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## em_40 (Sep 29, 2010)

Some of my eggs went moldy and caved in, the one I was originally asking about is still dented and is now getting soft brown spots... any ideas as to what that means? I've put it on some fresh hatchrite now, incase I had made it too wet, although it didn't plump back up...
I've also found more eggs in my cresty enclosure, she hasn't been mated in months but obviously has been laying ever since too... they all look bad exept for one, whch is nice and white on top looks healthy but then on the bottom its sort of looks creamy yellowy colour,haven't got a proper light for candeling but I'll get one tomorrow, I doubt very much it's fertile but I will check then... don't know why it's gone half and half, looks like a sweet.:hmm:

Still unsure what to do with the one, it seems to be getting worse, I want to save it, but don't know how


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## dooha538 (Jun 5, 2010)

It might just be that all the eggs are bad its common for cresties not to do very well on theyre first season of breeding


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