# royal python Still hiding



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Its been a week tomorrow since i got the royal python.
i expected him to be a little nervous but almost 7 days have gone by and he has never moved from the hide.

the only time i can get him to move is if i remove the hide and place it somewhere else at night, soon as i lift the hide, 5 or so mins later he starts to move , might have a little drink then he finds the hide again and goes back that's it,in all this time i have to be as still as a rock or he freezes, any other time he don't come out for nothing , at first i was fine but after 7 days just about no change in behaviour what's so ever


----------



## Antw23uk (Jan 12, 2009)

Erm what did you expect? Its a royal .. its pretty much what they do :whistling2:


----------



## Sid.lola (Jan 10, 2008)

85% of the time your Royal will hide. In a hide, under newspaper, wherever it can squeeze in.

The rest of the time it will fall off things it has no business climbing but this will only happen in the middle of the night when you're just drifting off to sleep so that the thud it makes when it falls wakes you up.


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> Its been a week tomorrow since i got the royal python.
> i expected him to be a little nervous but almost 7 days have gone by and he has never moved from the hide.


Congratulations, you have a perfectly normal royal python. 

It may take a _couple of months_ for it to completely settle in and not hide as soon as it sees you.


----------



## NINJATURTLETOM (Sep 1, 2009)

Thats what they do mate you will once in a blue moon see it out during the day unless it is bathing. I use to stay up and watch mine come out at night and clamber around. As long as its feeding and shedding its all good"!


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

NINJATURTLETOM said:


> Thats what they do mate you will once in a blue moon see it out during the day unless it is bathing. I use to stay up and watch mine come out at night and clamber around. As long as its feeding and shedding its all good"!


i dont think its even come out at night ever, litrally not moved for water or anything unless i make it move by removing the hide to another part of the viv


----------



## Mattinho (Apr 28, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> i dont think its even come out at night ever, litrally not moved for water or anything unless i make it move by removing the hide to another part of the viv


Can you get a pic of your setup? May be that it is too open with not enough cover and that is the only place he feels safe.

Matt


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> i dont think its even come out at night ever, litrally not moved for water or anything unless i make it move by removing the hide to another part of the viv


You say "the hide".

Do you have *multiple *hides, so that your royal can move from the cool end to the warm end without you being able to see it if it doesn't want you to?


----------



## Trezeck (Sep 13, 2010)

It's perfectly normal for Royal to spend most of it's days and possibly nights in the hide. Takes months for it to settle in aswell. It most likely has a drink and a little rumage around the enclosure late at night when you are snuggly tucked in bed. I wouldn't worry about it too much.


----------



## tigger79 (Aug 22, 2006)

IMHO it appears that you are pestering the royal too mush, as you have not had it very long, you need to leave it alone and allow it to have 7-10 days to settle in to its new environment, you will find that it may move aroundwhen you arent watch (usually at night) only going into the tank to change water every 2-3 days, after 7 days offer a feed without touching the snake, if he doesnt feed, leave near entrance of hide overnight,


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Mattinho said:


> Can you get a pic of your setup? May be that it is too open with not enough cover and that is the only place he feels safe.
> 
> Matt


 yes heres some pictures


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> You say "the hide".
> 
> Do you have *multiple *hides, so that your royal can move from the cool end to the warm end without you being able to see it if it doesn't want you to?


 yes 2 hides


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> You say "the hide".
> 
> Do you have *multiple *hides, so that your royal can move from the cool end to the warm end without you being able to see it if it doesn't want you to?


yes 2 hides


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

That looks quite bare, Kale - I'm not surprised he spends all his time hiding under one or the other.

I would turn the cork bark the opposite way, and add another two hides - even a couple of cereal boxes if necessary - to provide him with several temperature choices and places to hide. 

Oddly enough, the more hiding places a snake has, the more likely it is to come out in the open, because it knows it's got plenty of places to hide if it needs to.


----------



## chris2007 (Aug 18, 2010)

looks boring!!
get some plants in there, few more hides and some low branches!! and leave to snake to it for a while! it'll soon settle in. also that light needs a guard!!!


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> That looks quite bare, Kale - I'm not surprised he spends all his time hiding under one or the other.
> 
> I would turn the cork bark the opposite way, and add another two hides - even a couple of cereal boxes if necessary - to provide him with several temperature choices and places to hide.
> 
> Oddly enough, the more hiding places a snake has, the more likely it is to come out in the open, because it knows it's got plenty of places to hide if it needs to.


theres just one problem with that....
the viv is only 3ft x 15 wide x 18 high, theres not allot of floor space to do all that justice

i agree plenty of hides etc...

but... id have to get my hands on a deep vivarium about 4ft long
something like that 
VIVEXOTIC VX48 48
which is 4ft long 18 deep and 21 inch high
problem is, i don't have £95 so id need a second hand one, which is more scarce

i even wanted to put on a fake background like those foam exo terras but... there 2 inches thick and with only a 36 x 15 inch floor space it would srink my floor space to much


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

chris2007 said:


> looks boring!!
> get some plants in there, few more hides and some low branches!! and leave to snake to it for a while! it'll soon settle in. also that light needs a guard!!!


im geting a guard tomrrow to complete the ceramic lamp/bulb kit 

ceramic bulb
holder/fixing
microclimate dimming thermostat
guard 

as far as decoring up as i explained in another post 3ft x 15 x 18 high isnt really that much floor space

what i need is one of those 4ft x 18 deep x 21 high but they are £90 and i dont have that kinda money id need a seconf hand one and for it to be delivered , if i could id get one of those fake rock backgrounds 

fake rock backgrounds are 2 inch thick from exo terra , so in the small viv i have now it would take to much space away


----------



## Hazze (Dec 8, 2009)

Both the hides seem to be in the same place pretty much. I agree, put some 'stuff' in there! Get a shoe box and put python size holes in random places and I guarantee it will go&check it out (maybe when it thinks your not looking!)

When I got my ball I was worried as she did nothing, now she usually comes out and watches me whenever I go in there. I would advise against taking her hide off her as that's her place of safety. On that note give her more places of safety in her viv&she'll go between em so you see her more!

:2thumb:


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Hazze said:


> Both the hides seem to be in the same place pretty much. I agree, put some 'stuff' in there! Get a shoe box and put python size holes in random places and I guarantee it will go&check it out (maybe when it thinks your not looking!)
> 
> When I got my ball I was worried as she did nothing, now she usually comes out and watches me whenever I go in there. I would advise against taking her hide off her as that's her place of safety. On that note give her more places of safety in her viv&she'll go between em so you see her more!
> :2thumb:


yes i.e i need a bigger viv then a 3ft x 15 x 18 high 

all this put more hides, fake plants etc etc is all right if i had a bigger viv
i cant afford 95 for a new 4ft 18 deep 21 high viv, i need a second hand one and its probing hard to find one that near me and would deliver


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> theres just one problem with that....
> the viv is only 3ft x 15 wide x 18 high, theres not allot of floor space to do all that justice


Having more furniture creates more floor space in multiple dimensions. Royals want a vivarium that is CLUTTERED.

Keep in mind, you're not "keeping a vivarium for yourself".
You're "creating a living space for an animal that suits that animal's needs."

I have a Dumerils boa and Texas ratsnake in this 30X15X15 vivarium double stack. Each of them has a big plastic plant and a log at one side (hiding nearly ALL of that side of the viv, except the water bowl), a piece of bark or wood stretching over to the warm end and a plastic seed tray under the heat lamp:


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> Having more furniture creates more floor space in multiple dimensions. Royals want a vivarium that is CLUTTERED.
> 
> Keep in mind, you're not "keeping a vivarium for yourself".
> You're "creating a living space for an animal that suits that animal's needs."
> ...


where did you get that big log tree thing in viv one 1
and about creating it for them thats why i need a bigger viv then i have, 15 x 36 isnt big enough to me


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

The big stick in the top vivarium?

... Came from a fallen piece of tree in the local wood.

Pour over boiling water, dry in oven, let dry out for a couple of weeks, stick in vivarium, voila, natural-looking vivarium hide.


----------



## tigger79 (Aug 22, 2006)

how big is the snake, it looks in the picture to be in a medium exo terra cave, so IMO it looks like the snake is small and i'd personally say the viv is too big, 

if the snake is small i'd advise to get a 18 litre rub, and sit it in the viv, making sure its at least a 1/3 on the heat mat, (no need to use light)


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> The big stick in the top vivarium?
> 
> ... Came from a fallen piece of tree in the local wood.
> 
> Pour over boiling water, dry in oven, let dry out for a couple of weeks, stick in vivarium, voila, natural-looking vivarium hide.


 how do you get a 2ft branch in a oven? lol


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> where did you get that big log tree thing in viv one 1
> and about creating it for them thats why i need a bigger viv then i have, 15 x 36 isnt big enough to me


You do not need a bigger viv, Kale.

Both of the vivs in the stack I showed you are SMALLER than yours, still have plenty of clutter, plenty of hiding places and snakes in them that are happy to eat and move about. Mr. Noseyparker Cerastes Ratsnake in the bottom viv is staring at me now - because he knows he can hide when he wants to.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

tigger79 said:


> how big is the snake, it looks in the picture to be in a medium exo terra cave, so IMO it looks like the snake is small and i'd personally say the viv is too big,
> 
> if the snake is small i'd advise to get a 18 litre rub, and sit it in the viv, making sure its at least a 1/3 on the heat mat, (no need to use light)


snake is in a large exo terra hide, and thats to small cos his body stuck out a little even in a ball, hence i just baught the biggest one a xl hopefully that willy ok for him.

hes about 2ft long maybe a tad more, and im trying to cater for a viv that is with him for the rest of his life not for about 12 months or so untill he grows that extra foot and half.

my idea was to get 

foam exo terra back grounds for the side and the back
get a large branch like 2 ft at least long and bent so i could put it up
get some fine orcid bark
few stick on plants
about 3 or more hides and its water bowl

but... to do that , in my mind i need a 4ft viv x 18 x 21 and they are £90 new

the exo terra backgrounds are 2 inch thick hence why i need a wide floor space bigger then the 15 inch now


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> You do not need a bigger viv, Kale.
> 
> Both of the vivs in the stack I showed you are SMALLER than yours, still have plenty of clutter, plenty of hiding places and snakes in them that are happy to eat and move about. Mr. Noseyparker Cerastes Ratsnake in the bottom viv is staring at me now - because he knows he can hide when he wants to.


 rat snakes come out way more then a royal python, i almost got one but i was getting ripped off... long story


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

Don't bother with the exo-terra backgrounds for now.

If you don't have the money for a new viv right now, make the best of the viv you have and don't get stuff that won't fit in it! Your snake is living in the viv you have right now, not in the one you can't afford.

Get a nice branch or some more cork bark (your royal would like a haphazard jumble of the stuff that it can rearrange to its liking) and tight-fitting hides (they LIKE hides they have to squeeze into) and some plastic plants, don't worry about having "open" floor space so much except for your water bowl.


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> rat snakes come out way more then a royal python, i almost got one but i was getting ripped off... long story


The Dumerils upstairs of Cerastes is also nosey - he's nicknamed Boahead because that's what we usually see of him.

Note that in my signature I do list that I've got royal pythons. Many of those spend time "out in the open" too....


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> The Dumerils upstairs of Cerastes is also nosey - he's nicknamed Boahead because that's what we usually see of him.
> 
> Note that in my signature I do list that I've got royal pythons. Many of those spend time "out in the open" too....


ive just been told today that they spend most of there time Hiding not out in the open.

i dont like aspen substrate cos its to light, is orcid bark fine or course ok for a royal python?


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

Yes, they DO spend most of their time hiding - but the more secure they feel about their available hiding places, the more likely they are to peek out of 'em.

For example, I have an adult male who hangs out on the shelf in the cool end of his vivarium and will stretch out at me when I come into the room; I have several females who are very nosey about what I'm doing.

But that's because they've got a lot of choice about where to hide and know they CAN hide from me if they want to, and don't have to choose between hiding and being the right temperature.

I personally don't like orchid bark - I always seem to get splinters from it or something - but that's personal preference.


----------



## laurencea (Aug 28, 2009)

get some fake plants/leaves etc. 
get some cork bark/logs
put one hide in one end, the other in the other end
put stuff in the middle - toilet roll tubes, boxes, etc

that viv is plenty big enough - maybe too big for now, so you'll have to fill it up.

my royal is now in an xl hide and he's over 3ft and still has room to spare in it. they like to feel cramped in a hide and will ball up in it, it doesn't mean the hide is too small.

my viv is 3x2 and will be his home for life. i started mine is RUBs and it took a little while for him to get settled, but having a hide of some sort within reach seemed to calm him.

good luck with the royal.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

laurencea said:


> get some fake plants/leaves etc.
> get some cork bark/logs
> put one hide in one end, the other in the other end
> put stuff in the middle - toilet roll tubes, boxes, etc
> ...


if mine was 3ft by 2 , it be my snakes home for life to, but its not its way smaller then that

i gotta find a clean branch outside thats like 2ft long and kinda arched to start me off, BUYING one is silly money and hard to find just for s stick

i cant bake a 2ft branch in the oven, the oven just aint big enough

i hear bleach soloution?

watered down bleach or just neat bleach ????


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> if mine was 3ft by 2 , it be my snakes home for life to, but its not its way smaller then that
> 
> i gotta find a clean branch outside thats like 2ft long and kinda arched to start me off, BUYING one is silly money and hard to find just for s stick
> 
> i cant bake a 2ft branch in the oven, the oven just aint big enough


Then use a smaller branch - find out exactly how wide your oven is across the diagonal, from corner to corner.

I personally wouldn't want to use bleach if I couldn't rinse and bake the branch afterwards to burn off any possibly-harmful chemical residues.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> I personally don't like orchid bark - I always seem to get splinters from it or something - but that's personal preference.


 
what dark sibstrate can i use for a royal python?


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

Up to you, really - if YOU like orchid bark, then YOU can use orchid bark.

I just said *I* don't like it because I find it splintery, and it might be that I'm actually allergic to it or something.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> Then use a smaller branch - find out exactly how wide your oven is across the diagonal, from corner to corner.
> 
> I personally wouldn't want to use bleach if I couldn't rinse and bake the branch afterwards to burn off any possibly-harmful chemical residues.


wont a peice of wood get so hot in a oven that it would set on fire?


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> Up to you, really - if YOU like orchid bark, then YOU can use orchid bark.
> 
> I just said *I* don't like it because I find it splintery, and it might be that I'm actually allergic to it or something.


 all id say is, would it be suitable for a royal python?


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> wont a peice of wood get so hot in a oven that it would set on fire?


Not really, no. I bake mine at about 100-150 degrees C - which is nowhere near the burn point for wood.



kaleluk31 said:


> all id say is, would it be suitable for a royal python?


It can be, if you like it, you make sure it does not contain any little "friends" for your royal (freeze it for a week or bake it before you put it in the vivarium) and you spot-clean regularly.


----------



## mike10205 (Sep 3, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> wont a peice of wood get so hot in a oven that it would set on fire?


Get some tamodine and rinse the branch with it and leave to dry. I have also soaked in Milton fluid in the bath. Works a treat. 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## laurencea (Aug 28, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> *if mine was 3ft by 2 , it be my snakes home for life to, but its not its way smaller then that*


you said it was 3ft x 1.5ft... that's not that small for a smallish royal.

if you want the royal to come out, then get some cover for it, don't worry about substrate, mine is still on paper until he is used to his viv (and i can get around to baking the aspen!).

get lots of clutter and places for the snake to duck behind and feel secure and then let him get used to it and he'll be roaming around and wrecking it in no time.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

mike10205 said:


> Get some tamodine and rinse the branch with it and leave to dry. I have also soaked in Milton fluid in the bath. Works a treat.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 i dont have a bath 
i have a walk in shower

i was thinking a silver birch from the local park, ill go wood hunting on sunday

maybe go cut a nice branch with a hack saw lol opps... i said that out loud lol

i want a nice 2ft peice kinda where it v`s off , kinda like a picture i was shown in this thread

ill get some niece subsrate just worried whiuch is best, not apsen though its to light


----------



## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

Any branch will need treating one way or another.
Your set up is ok just put more hides and fake leafs in.
when you get your ceramic etc get your temps set correctly and LEAVE your snake alone for 7/10 days.You have been messing the snake about, trying to feed and trying to get it to move around for you.
Just change the water every few days and do nothing else untill the snake has settled into its enviroment


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

nelly1 said:


> Any branch will need treating one way or another.
> Your set up is ok just put more hides and fake leafs in.
> when you get your ceramic etc get your temps set correctly and LEAVE your snake alone for 7/10 days.You have been messing the snake about, trying to feed and trying to get it to move around for you.
> Just change the water every few days and do nothing else untill the snake has settled into its enviroment


err..... tomrrow (saturday) ill have had it 1 week in total it will have not eaten for 14 days... i know all this fasting and stuff... however because its been 7 days since i had him and 14 days since hes eaten im going to try feed him on monday. total 9 days since i had him and heating will have been set up over 48 hours.
ill have my ceramic heating etc setup tomrrow

i do plan to slowly take everyones generous advice on some how creating levels of hiding spots for him.

over the next week i hope to get 

the tree branch ( all though ill need to treated for with Hot water from kettle soaked and possibly baked) 

substrate probably orchid bark (not sure if i should get course or fine)
some fake vine leaves to drape over the tree branch

another exo terra x large hide

then ill take pics


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> err..... tomrrow (saturday) ill have had it 1 week in total it will have not eaten for 14 days... i know all this fasting and stuff... however because its been 7 days since i had him and 14 days since hes eaten im going to try feed him on monday.


I wouldn't. 

You've still been messing around with his enclosure, his setup and trying to get him to move around his vivarium - try to feed when he's had an UNDISTURBED seven days.

Missing a meal for 21 days - for a royal - is like eating breakfast, skipping lunch and having a late dinner.


----------



## RedDragon619 (Jan 1, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> I wouldn't.
> 
> You've still been messing around with his enclosure, his setup and trying to get him to move around his vivarium - try to feed when he's had an UNDISTURBED seven days.
> 
> Missing a meal for 21 days - for a royal - is like eating breakfast, skipping lunch and having a late dinner.


been watching this tread today and thought id reply now lol

i agree 100% with "Ssthist" she needs leaving ATLEAST week before you try feeding again.
i have a royal who went about 2months without eating then BANG tryed to take my hand with the rat :devil: 
they can go a long time with no food and still be in good health.

good luck with it all :2thumb:


----------



## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> err..... tomrrow (saturday) ill have had it 1 week in total it will have not eaten for 14 days... i know all this fasting and stuff... however because its been 7 days since i had him and 14 days since hes eaten im going to try feed him on monday. total 9 days since i had him and heating will have been set up over 48 hours.
> ill have my ceramic heating etc setup tomrrow
> 
> i do plan to slowly take everyones generous advice on some how creating levels of hiding spots for him.
> ...


.
You tried to feed before and possibly stressed it.Just because it was fed on a 7day cycle does not mean it is now starving.As every one has said once every thing is correct leave it alone for seven days.add some hides and a branch but dont change the newpaper untill it has settled and fed a few times.Stop fussing and Leave the SNAKE ALONE


----------



## venomous111 (Dec 24, 2009)

At the end of the day m8 its not what you want its making the snakes viv look as natural as possible, i learnt that from people on here, yeh i'd say leave it alone for atleast a week from the last time you handled it or moved anything : victory:


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

****update*** on my royal python setup*

I installed the ceramic bulb/lamp with guard on a microclimate B1 dimming thermostat

so now that is the only heat source in there now

im monitoring the heat with my digital thermometer

that's all set up and im leaving him alone now 

only time ill got back is if the heat is higher then it should be of for that fact lower

ill leave the ceramic on 24/7

so far its about 86f (30c)

cool end is about 78f (25.5c)

ive got the hides at each end of the viv now with the water bowel at the cooler end

today i found a branch , im currently working on cleaning it, in the shower on hot and also maybe the bake in the oven thing, it wont go in the viv for a week or 2 yet untill i deicide on a nice substrate, any ideas???

ive also bought a leafy vine off e bay but that later on 
also.

right now im just getting him settled like you guys advised :lol2::notworthy:


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> I installed the ceramic bulb/lamp with guard on a microclimate B1 dimming thermostat
> 
> so now that is the only heat source in there now
> 
> ...



Well done on listening & taking the advice on board :2thumb:. When he/she has settled in don't forget to post up lots of pics of her/him in the set up :2thumb:.


----------



## gecko67 (Mar 17, 2010)

why did you not set the viv up before you got the snake , would have helped the royal settle down a lot quicker


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> Well done on listening & taking the advice on board :2thumb:. When he/she has settled in don't forget to post up lots of pics of her/him in the set up :2thumb:.


in a few weeks from now ill be using orchid bark substrate, should i use coase or fine?

*Couarse orchid bark*









*Fine orchid bark*


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

gecko67 said:


> why did you not set the viv up before you got the snake , would have helped the royal settle down a lot quicker


Because....

i did not buy it from a shop, i got advice and baught it from a owner who didnt want the royal no more, the royal came with so called full setup, but because it was lacking in a few items i had to hit the ground running so to speak and buy the items in turn after.

when this setup came i had a light emitting heat bulb, heat mat, 2 hides and water bowel, and the 2 year old royal python.

now as from today i dont have the light emitting heater and heat mat

i now have a ceramic lamp,bulb,holder and fixings, guard, and microclimate dimming thermostat

that is monitored with my digital radio shack high and low thermomiter

and a reguilar exo terra thermomiter at the cool end


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> in a few weeks from now ill be using orchid bark substrate, should i use coase or fine?
> 
> *Couarse orchid bark*
> image
> ...



Personally i wouldn't use orchid bark (too high a risk of getting mites). If you are going to use it then it will need to go in the microwave (there are threads about this on here) or freezer for 24 hours to kill off any mites. If i was using a substrate on my Royals i would use Aspen :2thumb: (i use it already on the Corn snakes). I use newspaper on all my Royals, really easy to clean & is cheap to buy :2thumb:.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> Personally i wouldn't use orchid bark (too high a risk of getting mites). If you are going to use it then it will need to go in the microwave (there are threads about this on here) or freezer for 24 hours to kill off any mites. If i was using a substrate on my Royals i would use Aspen :2thumb: (i use it already on the Corn snakes). I use newspaper on all my Royals, really easy to clean & is cheap to buy :2thumb:.


but doesnt aspen lack humidity?
ive heard people talk about there dislike for apsen cos there worried it will get stuck in the snakes mouth?

aspen isnt that cheap towards orchid bark cos on ebay i can get 70L or orchind bark for about £26
its about £20 for 26L of Aspen


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> but doesnt aspen lack humidity?
> ive heard people talk about there dislike for apsen cos there worried it will get stuck in the snakes mouth?
> 
> aspen isnt that cheap towards orchid bark cos on ebay i can get 70L or orchind bark for about £26
> its about £20 for 26L of Aspen




Royals don't need humidity :2thumb:. Normal room humidity is all they need (about 50-60% is fine). If you give them too high humidity they can get R.I's :gasp:.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> Royals don't need humidity :2thumb:. Normal room humidity is all they need (about 50-60% is fine). If you give them too high humidity they can get R.I's :gasp:.


what about shedding there skin?

how long will 26L last on a 36" x 15" floor space if you change the apsen fully once a month and spot cleans in between?


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> what about shedding there skin?
> 
> how long will 26L last on a 36" x 15" floor space if you change the apsen fully once a month and spot cleans in between?




If they need help shedding just put a moist hide box in there when they are in shed :2thumb: (a box with some damp spagnum moss in). I buy small bags of Aspen & they last me several full clean outs (my vivs are 3'x18"x18"), so a big bag should last quite a few months :2thumb:.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

*3rd Week feeding date*

Thursday will be third week since my royal was fed by its previous owner.

i have the heat at a steady 88F in the hot end

thid week im waiting for a 3rd hide, i have a branch and im also waiting for 2 metres of fake vine leaf

because Thursday is the 3rd week i will attempt to feed him in his viv that night


----------



## RedDragon619 (Jan 1, 2010)

you need to get it all set up, then leave it alone for a full 7 days (only go in to change water etc) then try feeding, i wouldnt bother yet. get the setup right 1st.
they can go ages without a feed, 3 weeks is nothing, trust me lol

Hope this helps :2thumb:


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

RedDragon619 said:


> you need to get it all set up, then leave it alone for a full 7 days (only go in to change water etc) then try feeding, i wouldnt bother yet. get the setup right 1st.
> they can go ages without a feed, 3 weeks is nothing, trust me lol
> 
> Hope this helps :2thumb:


as far as heating regulation and a few things im all set i will have been for 7 days already, before i do anything like add stuff im gonna get him to eat something first, ive already waited 7 days after getting the heat correct


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> Thursday will be third week since my royal was fed by its previous owner.
> 
> i have the heat at a steady 88F in the hot end
> 
> ...




88F is still too low, if you try to feed him you risk him regurging it as the temp is too low for him to digest it :whistling2:. You have been told to leave him alone for at least a week AFTER you have the correct temps. You need to get the temps up to a minimum of 32C (90F). He will be fine until you get the temps right. Why are you not listening to what we are saying? We are giving you the advice you are asking for & what is best for your Royal. You need the temps correct before attempting to feed & they need to be correct for at least a week. PLEASE, PLEASE DON'T FEED HIM UNTIL EVERYTHING IS CORRECT.


----------



## Madmonk (Apr 30, 2009)

*royal*

As per what Mel has said, my hot end temps are 93f and cool end is 81f, ambient room temp is 82f. I have royal who didn't feed for a month, even with temps as stated. To check temps I use an infra red gun and not rely too much on thermometers. Please listen to what people are telling you, both you and the snake will benefit greatly, if not then an R.I will or some other ailment will be waiting to strike.


----------



## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> as far as heating regulation and a few things im all set i will have been for 7 days already, before i do anything like add stuff im gonna get him to eat something first, ive already waited 7 days after getting the heat correct


.
How have you had it set up correctly for 7 days when you where waiting for a thermostat or a ceramic on saturday if i remember rightly, are you telling porkies.Set the temps at 92/94 with a stat and digital themometer with guard and ceramic bulb ,untill you have these up and running dont use un stated mats or light bulbs and do not feed


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> 88F is still too low, if you try to feed him you risk him regurging it as the temp is too low for him to digest it :whistling2:. You have been told to leave him alone for at least a week AFTER you have the correct temps. You need to get the temps up to a minimum of 32C (90F). He will be fine until you get the temps right. Why are you not listening to what we are saying? We are giving you the advice you are asking for & what is best for your Royal. You need the temps correct before attempting to feed & they need to be correct for at least a week. PLEASE, PLEASE DON'T FEED HIM UNTIL EVERYTHING IS CORRECT.


Ok about the "minimum" of 32c or 90f i dont agree.
heat temps for snakes varrey from each type of snake.
according to most care sites about royal pythons. 
(because thats what ive been doing all week is reading up on it)
is that a royal likes anything between 85f and 90F in the hot end
royal pythons are quite hardy when it comes to temp, but they are fussy eaters.

however i checked today, its my thermometer that is wrong cos i cant get it close enough to the heat source to check it constant.
im 99% sure its been running at 90f since i installed it which will be a week on thursday.

i have left it alone except to change its water everyday.

i think that if everyone that comment's isn't caught up to where i am in this setup, and read something that is not the latest postand replying to that , all what are correct answers most will become wrong answers by default

*here is the real and latest facts*
it has 2 hides
it has 1 large water bowel(water changed every day)
99% sure its been running at 90F since i installed it
i have not bothered it since i installed the heat thermostat

i read about royal python care everyday till i know everything there is to know about the general care.

the ironic thing is, he mostly sleeps in the cool end


----------



## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> Ok about the "minimum" of 32c or 90f i dont agree.
> heat temps for snakes varrey from each type of snake.
> according to most care sites about royal pythons.
> (because thats what ive been doing all week is reading up on it)
> ...


.
Because of the missleading info and you know every think about the care of royals, diispite the advice from expierianced keepers this is my last post to you.
Good look with the royal


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> it has 2 hides
> it has 1 large water bowel(water changed every day)
> 99% sure its been running at 90F since i installed it
> i have not bothered it since i installed the heat thermostat
> ...


Ok, first:

More hides. *Before you try to feed*. More hides. Cardboard boxes will do just fine, really.
Check the temperature on the floor or right on top of the hide directly below the heat equipment - you need to know what THAT temperature is. 

"Pretty sure it's running at such-and-such temperature" is not the same thing as "actually running on such-and-such" and in my case I wound up with a burned rainbow boa because I didn't check the wattage of a bulb *in the tank below her* before putting it in - cheap bulbs, and in this case quality control let a 40-watt bulb go out in a 25-watt box. Iris has recovered, but has some scarring that could have been avoided if I'd checked and watched things like "she's spending an unusually high amount of time in the cool side..."


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

nelly1 said:


> .
> Because of the missleading info and you know every think about the care of royals, diispite the advice from expierianced keepers this is my last post to you.
> Good look with the royal


hey dont be angry with me
i have been reading everything i can on royal pythons.

what i tried to say is, if i write one post, one person comments , then 3 days later another person comments on the same thing, or writes something totoally differnt to controdict what others have wrote
then logically i have to find facts thats sowhere in between to get close enough to the truth as i can.

like i tried to say, even if most care sites the average is 85 to 90F is fine but if someone says 90F as a minimum i disagreed

point is your going to get pissy at me because i disagreed? or dont take 100% of what people saying on here and i research other places too?

well im sorry but thats going to happen not just by me

but if you want to get all angry and not write to me, then that is your decision


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> Ok, first:
> 
> More hides. *Before you try to feed*. More hides. Cardboard boxes will do just fine, really.
> Check the temperature on the floor or right on top of the hide directly below the heat equipment - you need to know what THAT temperature is.
> ...


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> Ok, first:
> 
> More hides. *Before you try to feed*. More hides. Cardboard boxes will do just fine, really.
> Check the temperature on the floor or right on top of the hide directly below the heat equipment - you need to know what THAT temperature is.
> ...


the wattage of the bulb is 150W ceramic bulb/lamp


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> Ok, first:
> 
> More hides. *Before you try to feed*. More hides. Cardboard boxes will do just fine, really.
> Check the temperature on the floor or right on top of the hide directly below the heat equipment - you need to know what THAT temperature is.
> ...


about checking the temp on the floor and the temp on the hide and the temp on the fllor are all going to be differnt because the futher you get away from a heat saurce the colder it will be.

what needs to be found is what tepriture its supose to be in what position

at the moment the seoncor is 2 hand half inch away from heat saurce ans is reading 90-91f, the microlimate dial is st at 90

the question is, where should the thermomiter censor be to get a accurate reading of temp?


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Madmonk said:


> As per what Mel has said, my hot end temps are 93f and cool end is 81f, ambient room temp is 82f. I have royal who didn't feed for a month, even with temps as stated. To check temps I use an infra red gun and not rely too much on thermometers. Please listen to what people are telling you, both you and the snake will benefit greatly, if not then an R.I will or some other ailment will be waiting to strike.


 a infar read gun now???

theres are very expensive, to expesnive for me and im sure most people dont own one
and also i am listening to everyone, but... if people give me one set of advice, then later on the advice for the same situation changes again and again, the truth gets distorted and i dont know what to belive.

the main thing i need to have is heat and hide set, 2 hides ive always had as directed.
i change the water bowel daily

the direct question i will ask, is the temp on the ground the true temp? or is it near the heat saurce or is it somewhere else??


----------



## Madmonk (Apr 30, 2009)

*royal still hiding*

The easiest way to check is by spending £15-£20 on an infra red heat gun, this will be of more use than 99% sure. I was told from well respected persons on this forum that temps are a must, whether you agree or disagree is up to you, yes royals are to a degree hardy but corns are more forgiving with temps. If you get it wrong with royals then lack of appetite and illness will set in at some point.

Good luck.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

nelly1 said:


> .
> How have you had it set up correctly for 7 days when you where waiting for a thermostat or a ceramic on saturday if i remember rightly, are you telling porkies.Set the temps at 92/94 with a stat and digital themometer with guard and ceramic bulb ,untill you have these up and running dont use un stated mats or light bulbs and do not feed


on Saturday i got all the items ceramic bulb, thermostat etc
i installed them as soon as i got then that morning

7 days from Saturday is Friday so i apologies Friday will be his feeding time which is 4 days away yet including today

what need to be known, is where should a digital thermometer sensor be to give the accurate reading of the true temp?

if i put the tiny senor on the bulb guard it would read over 100, cos the actual bulb is like half a inch away

if i put the sensor 2 inches from source it reads 91-93f

so if i know where the temperature needs to be read ill adjust thermostat according to that
the thermostat dial is set at 92F


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Madmonk said:


> The easiest way to check is by spending £15-£20 on an infra red heat gun, this will be of more use than 99% sure. I was told from well respected persons on this forum that temps are a must, whether you agree or disagree is up to you, yes royals are to a degree hardy but corns are more forgiving with temps. If you get it wrong with royals then lack of appetite and illness will set in at some point.
> 
> Good luck.


like i said, the closer to the heat saurce the hotter it gets, the futher away the colder it gets

to get a accurate reading where should the thermomiter sencor be?


----------



## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

Right the very last reply.
As has been said on many of your threads,92/94c basking spot, ie on top of the hide directly under the lamp. Set it according to the digital thermometer and put the dial one in the bin.Multiple hides fake foliage and a largish water bowl just big enough for the snake to get in, does not need room to splash around.That should give you a decent thermal gradient and enough humidity.
Thats my advice do with it as you please


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> ok i dout my self im sure it is for 2 reasons
> the dial on the thermostat says 91f


The dial on the thermostat is not a thermometer.



> my radio shack digital says 93F when the sensor is 2 and half inch away from source


Is your snake, at any point, anywhere near that sensor?

If not, you're not measuring the temperature *where the snake is*. You need to regulate the temperature where the snake actually is likely to bask.



kaleluk31 said:


> about checking the temp on the floor and the temp on the hide and the temp on the fllor are all going to be differnt because the futher you get away from a heat saurce the colder it will be.


Yup, that's correct. 

Your temperatures will be something like this:










You don't need to know what the temperature is up near the dark red heat element (other than knowing it is not going to set things on fire)... you need to know what the temperature is where your snake is.

Your thermometer and thermostat probes should both be located in the most likely place for your snake to bask - if you have a log where the snake is in the picture above, put the probes on top of the log, or fix them to the side wall at the level of the top of the log (and remember that they'll read slightly LOWER than the actual temperature, and adjust the temperature of your thermostat to suit).


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

nelly1 said:


> Right the very last reply.
> As has been said on many of your threads,92/94c basking spot, ie on top of the hide directly under the lamp. Set it according to the digital thermometer and put the dial one in the bin.Multiple hides fake foliage and a largish water bowl just big enough for the snake to get in, does not need room to splash around.That should give you a decent thermal gradient and enough humidity.
> Thats my advice do with it as you please


i have a good size water
bowel

the sencor on the digital thermomiter right this second reads 93f, the dial on the thermostat is set at 92f

if i put the sencor of the digital thermomiter Directly on top of the hide on the basking spot at ground level the temp is going to be different then if the sensor is 2 or 3 inch away from the bulb its self

so as i said right now the temp is 94f and the seonsor is near the bulb

you can see the white tip where the thermomiter seonsor is









thermomiter temp 94F


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

Ok, unless your snake is levitating, it CANNOT get to where that thermometer probe is.

Move the thermometer probe down (to about the same sort of height as the bottom end of the black line on my little diagram - an inch or two above the *floor*) and measure the temperature down there.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> The dial on the thermostat is not a thermometer.
> 
> 
> Is your snake, at any point, anywhere near that sensor?
> ...


the snake is under the green exo terra hide in the pic









it seems to prefer that end, even if i move the exo terra hide and the log to oposit ends it will still go and sleep on the right side of the picture

i dont want to distub the snake by moving things around again, i dont wanna unscrew everything bulb guard etc and disturb the snake futher









i have to think of something cos my heads like spagetti junction right now trying to take in every ones advice, im getting confused

im also getting worried that if dont eat soon ill wake one mnorning and he will be dead

on friday will the 2 week mark, according to the previous owner he fed him a week before that, but who knows if he was tellin the truth or not so on friday will be 3 weeks in total and then i get people saying another week on top of that making it a month??? i know its been heard that snakes go a month without food but i dont think its normal that they do thats the difference im thinking about


----------



## Madmonk (Apr 30, 2009)

*royal is hiding still*

In all honesty mate there are some things that need altering pronto!!

Like in previous thread(s) move the sensor down to where the snake would hide on the hot side and check the temp.
A reason why your snake is on the cold side is because it can cram into the hide feeling secure.
A piece of bark has 2 openings therefore the snake may not feel secure.
Put another hide the same size under your heat source and see what happens.
Have you got a fishing shop near you?? go and buy 2 maggot tubs (small round or square £1 each ish)cut a hole in the bottom and turn it upside down, if you find your snake in the tub under the heat source then your problem may be solved.If you are worried about the royals weight,
1. weigh animal and record
2. monitor the weight, if not significant loss taking into allowance urination and possible defacation don't worry, you could do more harm trying to feed an already stressed snake.
Get the temps right with plenty of cover and hides and given time your royal will feel safe.


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> the snake is under the green exo terra hide in the pic
> image
> 
> it seems to prefer that end, even if i move the exo terra hide and the log to oposit ends it will still go and sleep on the right side of the picture


That says your temperatures aren't quite right, one way or another - have you removed the heat mat?



> i dont want to distub the snake by moving things around again, i dont wanna unscrew everything bulb guard etc and disturb the snake futher


Why would you need to unscrew the bulb guard to move the thermometer probe? The thermometer probe REALLY shouldn't be in the bulb guard!



> im also getting worried that if dont eat soon ill wake one mnorning and he will be dead


Unless he *already *looks like death warmed over - triangular, with a sharp ridge of spine showing and with lots of wrinkly, saggy skin - he's nowhere near that point!



> i know its been heard that snakes go a month without food but i dont think its normal that they do


You're wrong there. I have animals that every single year will fast for two to four months without losing weight - it's part of their natural, normal life cycle to eat when food would be available in the wild, and NOT eat when food isn't available in the wild.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> Ok, unless your snake is levitating, it CANNOT get to where that thermometer probe is.
> 
> Move the thermometer probe down (to about the same sort of height as the bottom end of the black line on my little diagram - an inch or two above the *floor*) and measure the temperature down there.


ok ive done everything you Advised










you can just make out that it says 90F as directed


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

*thankyou to everyone*

*Thankyou for everyones advice*​


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

> =Ssthisto;7068852]That says your temperatures aren't quite right, one way or another - have you removed the heat mat?


Yes i have there is just the ceramic bulb/lamp in there for a heat source




> Why would you need to unscrew the bulb guard to move the thermometer probe? The thermometer probe REALLY shouldn't be in the bulb guard!.


I got confused because he likes the exo terra way better then the log, i might remove the log in favour of another hide, 2 openings as you say, sounds right to me



> Unless he *already *looks like death warmed over - triangular, with a sharp ridge of spine showing and with lots of wrinkly, saggy skin - he's nowhere near that point!.


I dont think so but at the same time he aint the fattest in the world ether



> You're wrong there. I have animals that every single year will fast for two to four months without losing weight - it's part of their natural, normal life cycle to eat when food would be available in the wild, and NOT eat when food isn't available in the wild.


cos im a newbie my biggest fear is to wake up and the poor snake starved to death :gasp:

i have moved the probe as directed








you can just about it reads 90F which is 32C


----------



## Nutty2345 (Aug 23, 2010)

Could you not just use a box instead of waiting for another hide? My royals hides are a pop tart box and a dentastix box. Makes more sense to me than leaving it even longer without her settling in and not eating.
My last royal died because I messed about with him too much. The people on this forum know what they are talking about


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

Have you been messing with the thermostat dial? Only in 3 different posts you have said the dial is set at 91 then 90 & then 92 :whistling2:. I think you need to go back through all the posts in this thread & re-read the replies we have posted as you obviously haven't been listening to us :devil:. Your probes need to be placed in a place where your snake is actually hiding (no good having them 10" up the wall of the viv as the snake isn't going to be sitting there now is it?) Temperature needs to be measured where the snake is :2thumb:. Use a digital (or infra red) thermometer to get the temps in the hide (ie where the snake can get to). Infra red thermometers are very cheap on ebay, i have just had one delivered that i bought at the weekend :2thumb:.

From now on please ignore the many care sheets that can be found online as they all contradict each other. Get advice from experienced keepers on here. 32-34C is the best temp to keep them at (this is posted in many threads on here by people who have experience with Royals & keeping them eating). If you choose to ignore any of the advice given then who is it you will turn to for help when things go wrong? Maybe if you choose to ignore advice we may choose to ignore your plea's for help :whistling2:. Works both ways :2thumb:.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Nutty2345 said:


> Could you not just use a box instead of waiting for another hide? My royals hides are a pop tart box and a dentastix box. Makes more sense to me than leaving it even longer without her settling in and not eating.
> My last royal died because I messed about with him too much. The people on this forum know what they are talking about


sure as a temporary measure i can make a 3rd hide out of a old sandwich box or something, what size would you reccomend for a 2ft royal?


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Nutty2345 said:


> Could you not just use a box instead of waiting for another hide? My royals hides are a pop tart box and a dentastix box. Makes more sense to me than leaving it even longer without her settling in and not eating.
> My last royal died because I messed about with him too much. The people on this forum know what they are talking about


 sure hows this 3 hides?


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> sure as a temporary measure i can make a 3rd hide out of a old sandwich box or something, what size would you reccomend for a 2ft royal?


Yes, that's why I've been saying "use a cereal box or something" all this time.

For a two-foot royal you can use anything you like that your snake will fit tightly into. Plastic plant pots, sandwich boxes, a box from microwave popcorn, a box from cat food pouches....


----------



## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> sure hows this 3 hides?
> image


.
your getting there, but use a box with no tape on it.
Tape + snake = big trouble: victory:


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> Have you been messing with the thermostat dial? Only in 3 different posts you have said the dial is set at 91 then 90 & then 92 :whistling2:.


i was advised in what position to have the sensor to get a ccurate reading and the right temp










corny girl said:


> I think you need to go back through all the posts in this thread & re-read the replies we have posted as you obviously haven't been listening to us :devil:. Your probes need to be placed in a place where your snake is actually hiding (no good having them 10" up the wall of the viv as the snake isn't going to be sitting there now is it?) Temperature needs to be measured where the snake is :2thumb:. Use a digital (or infra red) thermometer to get the temps in the hide (ie where the snake can get to). Infra red thermometers are very cheap on ebay, i have just had one delivered that i bought at the weekend :2thumb:..


yes i have done this as advised in the picture, you can just make out 90f (32.2c)



corny girl said:


> From now on please ignore the many care sheets that can be found online as they all contradict each other. Get advice from experienced keepers on here. 32-34C is the best temp to keep them at (this is posted in many threads on here by people who have experience with Royals & keeping them eating). If you choose to ignore any of the advice given then who is it you will turn to for help when things go wrong? Maybe if you choose to ignore advice we may choose to ignore your plea's for help :whistling2:. Works both ways :2thumb:.


I never said i was ignoring anyones advice, but i am aloud to disagree sometimes? 

99% of what ive done is from advice on here, im sorry if i get confused if one said to do it a certain way and then a few threads on someone says to do it a differnt way, me as a newbie i listen to everyone but i get confused when differnt people say it done differnt ways, to me you all have alot of knowledge on snake keeping but how do you choose the correct advice?


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

nelly1 said:


> .
> your getting there, but use a box with no tape on it.
> Tape + snake = big trouble: victory:


 opps sorry
the tape is well stuck down, will it make a differnce?
ill look for a better temp hide:notworthy:


----------



## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> opps sorry
> the tape is well stuck down, will it make a differnce?
> ill look for a better temp hide:notworthy:


.
The tape is not worth the risk in my opinion.
Loads of threads on here about tape sticking to snakes


----------



## heron (Nov 21, 2008)

Get a nice, small low profile box/hide too, and angle the opening away from the glass.

It sucks cos you cant see in so well, but the snake will be happier.

My Royal is about 18" long and loves her coconut hide. I think it's because she touches the sides and feels more secure. She'll happily sit in that and peep out, watching me when I go and say hello


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

nelly1 said:


> .
> The tape is not worth the risk in my opinion.
> Loads of threads on here about tape sticking to snakes


ok ive replaced the box, for another box without tape:2thumb:


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> 99% of what ive done is from advice on here, im sorry if i get confused if one said to do it a certain way and then a few threads on someone says to do it a differnt way, me as a newbie i listen to everyone but i get confused when differnt people say it done differnt ways, to me you all have alot of knowledge on snake keeping but how do you choose the correct advice?



What you have to do is try something someone has suggested, if it works for you then stick with it. If it doesn't work then you try something else :2thumb:. Thing is most of the advice is the same but maybe people say it differently which can get confusing :whistling2:. Please get you temps up to at least 32C & then leave the snake alone for another week (it won't hurt it, believe me, i know you are worried but please don't worry). Royals will go for months & months without food & like i said in a previous post one of mine went 6 months without a feed & hardly lost any weight. A month is nothing for a Royal & will be better in the long run as it will of settled in & will be more likely to eat then :2thumb:. If you feed it now it will either refuse or eat & probably regurge it :whistling2:.


----------



## laurencea (Aug 28, 2009)

another trick you could try... put some toilet roll tubes in there. there's something about a tunnel that royals love. they will even 'hide' with most of their body sticking out the back.

cereal boxes, that kind of thing are excellent. just cut a hole in and away you go.

you're getting there. care sheets are great for general info, but for the essential bits, experience counts. i got very confused by care sheets before i got my royal, but the breeder gave me some great tips about the basics and then i went from there.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

laurencea said:


> another trick you could try... put some toilet roll tubes in there. there's something about a tunnel that royals love. they will even 'hide' with most of their body sticking out the back.
> 
> cereal boxes, that kind of thing are excellent. just cut a hole in and away you go.


i think hes to small for cerial boxes

when me balls up hes about 6 to 8 inch across id guess


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> What you have to do is try something someone has suggested, if it works for you then stick with it. If it doesn't work then you try something else :2thumb:. Thing is most of the advice is the same but maybe people say it differently which can get confusing :whistling2:. Please get you temps up to at least 32C & then leave the snake alone for another week.


its been 90f (32.2c) all day now, except for putting in a time box for a 3rd hide, ive been no where near the viv
sooo 7 days from today is monday
i hope i get to try feed him then

there this thing i saw made by exo terra, its a feeding bowel and its by remote that it vibrates to simulate what evers on the plate to be alive.

i asked the salesman if it had been tried with snakes and thaws mice, he said he had and the snake went for it. but i dunno, i thought it might be frightened by something vibrating:lol2:


----------



## heron (Nov 21, 2008)

You really don't need a vibrating feeding bowl...

Just hold dinner with some tongs and wiggle it.



kaleluk31 said:


> i think hes to small for cerial boxes
> 
> when me balls up hes about 6 to 8 inch across id guess


You don't know til you try. Just put one in there and see, its not like it costs anything if you already buy cereal.


----------



## laurencea (Aug 28, 2009)

don't worry about a vibrating food bowl, when the time comes, just waggle the mouse in the tongs!


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> its been 90f (32.2c) all day now, except for putting in a time box for a 3rd hide, ive been no where near the viv
> sooo 7 days from today is monday
> i hope i get to try feed him then
> 
> ...



7 days from today is next Tuesday (1st day is Wed, 2nd day Thurs, 3rd day Fri, 4th day Sat, 5th day Sun, 6th day Mon, 7th day TUESDAY :2thumb. You count the next day as you arranged the new hides today :2thumb:.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

to be honest if i could go back i do it again id rather have bought a corn snake, at least they arnt as fussy eaters even if they don't live as long :lol2:
i chose a royal python for there colour :lol2:


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> 7 days from today is next Tuesday (1st day is Wed, 2nd day Thurs, 3rd day Fri, 4th day Sat, 5th day Sun, 6th day Mon, 7th day TUESDAY :2thumb. You count the next day as you arranged the new hides today :2thumb:.


 ahhhhhhhhhh :lol2:
i kinda counted today as the first day since it set the temp right so to speak early
ahh but oh well tuesday it is


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> to be honest if i could go back i do it again id rather have bought a corn snake, at least they arnt as fussy eaters even if they don't live as long :lol2:
> i chose a royal python for there colour :lol2:


You might be pleasantly surprised by your royal - when you've got everything set up right, sometimes they'll eat everything you give them and demand seconds 

Of course, then they make up for that by not eating for a while in winter, but that's fair enough.

And corns do live as long as the *average* royal python - it's exceptional royals that get to their 40s, and more typically they're in their twenties at "old age". Corns can also get well into their twenties with good care.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> You might be pleasantly surprised by your royal - when you've got everything set up right, sometimes they'll eat everything you give them and demand seconds
> 
> Of course, then they make up for that by not eating for a while in winter, but that's fair enough.
> 
> And corns do live as long as the *average* royal python - it's exceptional royals that get to their 40s, and more typically they're in their twenties at "old age". Corns can also get well into their twenties with good care.


well from what i read royals live to about 25 where as corns live to about 15 to 20 years

whats bothering me is, i have heat sorted, i have 3 hides(beleve me with 36 x 15 floor space its getting pretty clustered).

i think to my self ok i know it needs 3 hides and all the rest of it, and change its water at night but.... whats the real point in all that when the ball python acts like a new commer, in nearly 2 weeks it has never, day or night come out on its own irrispective of what i do to acomidate the snake.:bash:

people are gonna walk past all the time, so if it seeing some is gonna make it frightened then theres gonna be aissue cos someone always will walk past the viv.:whistling2:

i swear if i could id swap it for a young corn snake like a year or 2 old i would


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> well from what i read royals live to about 25 where as corns live to about 15 to 20 years


About the same, really - I know of as many in-their-twenties corns as I do of in-their-twenties royals 



> whats bothering me is, i have heat sorted, i have 3 hides(beleve me with 36 x 15 floor space its getting pretty clustered).


If the photos you've posted are still pretty accurate, the floor space isn't at all cluttered... you can still see the newspaper 



> i think to my self ok i know it needs 3 hides and all the rest of it, and change its water at night but.... whats the real point in all that when the ball python acts like a new commer, in nearly 2 weeks it has never, day or night come out on its own irrispective of what i do to acomidate the snake.:bash:


It's only been in your house for two weeks, you've been disturbing it for one reason or another most of that time, and it hasn't had time to settle in and learn that the big hairless monkeys it's living with NOW walking past aren't going to eat it. Congratulations, you have a normal royal python.

It needs *time* to learn that people moving around aren't a threat, that you aren't going to hurt it, and that people moving around near it MIGHT mean that food is on its way... and once you've got to that point, you get little noseyparker royal peeking out from under its hides at you when it feels you moving around/sees you to find out if you ARE carrying something that smells like food. 

But if you want a pet that's out and about _all _the time, there aren't many reptiles that are appropriate, and _most _of the ones that do come out during the day from day one are lizards. 



> i swear if i could id swap it for a young corn snake like a year or 2 old i would


If you got a yearling corn today, chances are it would still be hiding 95% of the time two weeks from now (and might not have eaten yet), too. It would ALSO have to settle in and learn that you aren't going to try to eat it.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> About the same, really - I know of as many in-their-twenties corns as I do of in-their-twenties royals
> 
> 
> If the photos you've posted are still pretty accurate, the floor space isn't at all cluttered... you can still see the newspaper
> ...


but it never comes out to even take a look how will it ever get used to people walking past?


> It needs *time* to learn that people moving around aren't a threat, that you aren't going to hurt it, and that people moving around near it MIGHT mean that food is on its way... and once you've got to that point, you get little noseyparker royal peeking out from under its hides at you when it feels you moving around/sees you to find out if you ARE carrying something that smells like food. .


same thing how does it get used to people or person if it never ever comes out?



> If you got a yearling corn today, chances are it would still be hiding 95% of the time two weeks from now (and might not have eaten yet), too. It would ALSO have to settle in and learn that you aren't going to try to eat it.


i would not get a yearling id get one about 2 years old


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> but it never comes out to even take a look how will it ever get used to people walking past?


It can *feel *you walking past.
It may be *looking *(from inside the hide where you can't see it looking) at you when you walk past.

And every time you walk past and something scary doesn't happen to the snake, the more it will associate that with "nothing to be scared of."



> i would not get a yearling id get one about 2 years old


Older ones are even more set in their ways, and you'd still probably have an animal that's hiding for the first two weeks because YOU ARE A GIANT SCARY MONSTER. What you have to have is patience - to show the animal, no matter what it is, that you don't mean it any harm, you're not going to do anything too alarming...


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> It can *feel *you walking past.
> It may be *looking *(from inside the hide where you can't see it looking) at you when you walk past.
> 
> And every time you walk past and something scary doesn't happen to the snake, the more it will associate that with "nothing to be scared of."
> ...


right now i was on my way to the bathroom and i noticed hes out at last exploring, hes all over the place on top of the hides up and down everywhere, i noticed cos he was up right almost as if he was looking out at me :lol2:

i dont approach him i just watched from a far, hes still out now, do you think thats a sign hes hungry now?


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> right now i was on my way to the bathroom and i noticed hes out at last exploring, hes all over the place on top of the hides up and down everywhere, i noticed cos he was up right almost as if he was looking out at me :lol2:
> 
> i dont approach him i just watched from a far, hes still out now, do you think thats a sign hes hungry now?



He is exploring the new changes you have done to his viv. Just leave him to explore & feed as planned next Tuesday :2thumb:.


----------



## Megan. (Mar 11, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> yes i.e i need a bigger viv then a 3ft x 15 x 18 high
> 
> all this put more hides, fake plants etc etc is all right if i had a bigger viv
> i cant afford 95 for a new 4ft 18 deep 21 high viv, i need a second hand one and its probing hard to find one that near me and would deliver


Id just like to throw this in! My royal is around 3.5ft long nearly 4! And his viv is 3ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft! And he seems to me quite happy and healthy!! 

A bit of cluttering does them good


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

i think the only reason he came out last night was cos he was trying to shed ,nothing more cos tonight theres no sign of him again.

i think it might be a corn snake swap if i can find someone. no hatching but not adult eather about 2ft long id want, any smaller and id have to set up a rub

please dont be angry guys :sad: but im beginning to agree with a few post ive seen on here where some say royals are not always good first snakes:gasp::sad:


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> i think the only reason he came out last night was cos he was trying to shed ,nothing more cos tonight theres no sign of him again.
> 
> i think it might be a corn snake swap if i can find someone. no hatching but not adult eather about 2ft long id want, any smaller and id have to set up a rub
> 
> please dont be angry guys :sad: but im beginning to agree with a few post ive seen on here where some say royals are not always good first snakes:gasp::sad:




They can be good first snakes, had all the research been done first & the viv been set up & been running at correct temps before the snake arrived it would of been fine. You weren't to know what is involved with it all when you bought him & his viv. Like i said shame he is a he, had he been a female i would swapped my Amel corn snake male (15 months old) with you.


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> i think the only reason he came out last night was cos he was trying to shed ,nothing more cos tonight theres no sign of him again.
> 
> i think it might be a corn snake swap if i can find someone. no hatching but not adult eather about 2ft long id want, any smaller and id have to set up a rub
> 
> please dont be angry guys :sad: but im beginning to agree with a few post ive seen on here where some say royals are not always good first snakes:gasp::sad:


He's still settling in, Kale - and to be completely frank MANY snakes spend MOST of their time hiding, no matter what species they are.

It's not really fair on HIM to be passing him on again just because you aren't willing to give him a fair chance and see what he's like once he's gotten a couple of feeds down him. Sure, people have said they're not ideal first snakes - but that's something to take into account before getting an animal, not once you've got it and partway into the settling in period.

If you trade for a corn and it winds up being one of the ones that hides all the time (like my girls Kainite, Paddy and Sulphur) or one that bites (like Realgar) are you going to want to move that snake on too because it doesn't meet your expectations?


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> They can be good first snakes, had all the research been done first & the viv been set up & been running at correct temps before the snake arrived it would of been fine. You weren't to know what is involved with it all when you bought him & his viv. Like i said shame he is a he, had he been a female i would swapped my Amel corn snake male (15 months old) with you.


would be a nice offer but you live like 150 miles from me lol:gasp:


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> He's still settling in, Kale - and to be completely frank MANY snakes spend MOST of their time hiding, no matter what species they are.
> 
> It's not really fair on HIM to be passing him on again just because you aren't willing to give him a fair chance and see what he's like once he's gotten a couple of feeds down him. Sure, people have said they're not ideal first snakes - but that's something to take into account before getting an animal, not once you've got it and partway into the settling in period.
> 
> If you trade for a corn and it winds up being one of the ones that hides all the time (like my girls Kainite, Paddy and Sulphur) or one that bites (like Realgar) are you going to want to move that snake on too because it doesn't meet your expectations?


 
i can tell your sorta angry with me, but what can i do, i would not just disreguard a snake, i give it a good try, and i would not pass the snake on to just anyone.

i called a local reptile shop and he said would be wiling to do a 2 week trial swap.
he said a name of a few snakes
northern pine, cos they hunt during the day and are alot more active.

ive just read about these snakes that someone wrote on here it said that they are very active, dont like to be held, and hiss and beat there trial alot and average side is 48 to 60 inch.

i dont think a pine would be ok as a adult in a 3ft viv such as mine, and he would proabblty scare me with his little show and dance, but im not sure.

Cornsnakes 
he said there active but they hunt at night, they eat well , like to climb,quite placid, but they to hide alot and rarely come out during the day

if the corn snake turned out to be femake id have to get a larger viv then a 36 x 15 x 18 high, maybe something like a 48 x 18 x 18 so i can put in a few hides and branches

tell me what you think, please dont be harsh :sad:


----------



## nelly1 (Oct 27, 2009)

Honest opinion, I think you should pass on the royal and do a lot more research into a species of snake you wold like to keep.
When you have done that ,come ack on here and ask peoples advise before you purchase another animal.From what you want from a snake i personal dont think your ready for one yet


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> northern pine, cos they hunt during the day and are alot more active.


Someone hasn't told mine that he should be active during the day... he spends plenty of time hiding in his box.

He is also six feet long nose to tailtip, does bluff, hiss, gape, tail-rattle and S-up a lot (although he is generally all mouth and no trousers).

I think you need to write up a list of what you'd like your snake to be and do - everything from trivial "I like brown, black and gold patterns" to "Unlikely to bite" to "no bigger than XYZ". 

Once you've written that list, put the list in order of MOST important to LEAST important traits. 

Then post the list - and people can tell you if any snakes fit what you want from a snake - and if so, a bit about how to care for them or anything you might not find in a book about them.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

*What type of snake to choose*



Ssthisto said:


> Someone hasn't told mine that he should be active during the day... he spends plenty of time hiding in his box.
> 
> He is also six feet long nose to tailtip, does bluff, hiss, gape, tail-rattle and S-up a lot (although he is generally all mouth and no trousers).
> 
> ...


 
heres my list
Active
not a fussy feeder
can be kept in a 3ft x 15 x 18 viv or 3ft x 18 x 18 all its life
likes to be handled
not such a shy snake
not bad tempered
easy to care for
nice colour/ or colours

what i dont want
bad tempered snakes
snakes that dont like to be handled
very difficult care snakes
snakes that grow enormous and would out grow a 3 to 4ft viv
fussy eaters
extreamly shy snakes


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> heres my list
> Active
> not a fussy feeder
> can be kept in a 3ft x 15 x 18 viv or 3ft x 18 x 18 all its life
> ...


If you can deal with "a little bit quick" and "might take a while to find one" ....

Look into garter snakes. They're diurnally active, some of them are brightly coloured and most have nice patterns, a 36X15X18 would give one plenty of room to move around, and once they get used to you (Yes, they STILL have to settle in and get used to you!) they can be quite handleable snakes.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

nelly1 said:


> Honest opinion, I think you should pass on the royal and do a lot more research into a species of snake you wold like to keep.
> When you have done that ,come ack on here and ask peoples advise before you purchase another animal.From what you want from a snake i personal dont think your ready for one yet


well the deal at the shop is a swap so im doing my best to choose
i wrote alist of wants and not wants as advied to

*heres my list*
Active
not a fussy feeder
can be kept in a 3ft x 15 x 18 viv or 3ft x 18 x 18 all its life
likes to be handled
not such a shy snake
not bad tempered
easy to care for
nice colour/ or colours

*what i dont want*
bad tempered snakes
snakes that dont like to be handled
very difficult care snakes
snakes that grow enormous and would out grow a 3 to 4ft viv
fussy eaters
extreamly shy snakes


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> If you can deal with "a little bit quick" and "might take a while to find one" ....
> 
> Look into garter snakes. They're diurnally active, some of them are brightly coloured and most have nice patterns, a 36X15X18 would give one plenty of room to move around, and once they get used to you (Yes, they STILL have to settle in and get used to you!) they can be quite handleable snakes.


 
i know i probably make you guys angry but i do appreciate all your time and effort in helping me


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> well the deal at the shop is a swap


Don't tie yourself into a swap with a shop - you're limiting yourself to "what they've got available and are willing to let you have" rather than choosing what's actually right FOR YOU.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> Don't tie yourself into a swap with a shop - you're limiting yourself to "what they've got available and are willing to let you have" rather than choosing what's actually right FOR YOU.


 
i know i have to choose one thats right for me, but i think with shops if i asked them to buy it, even if they did, lets say a 2ft royal can sell for 75 to 100, id be lucky if the shop gave me £20
and there ain't many snakes if any going for that price

what I'm trying to do is, read all the advice, read up, decide what kinds of snake id want but then actually go to the shop and handle some

when one seems right choose that one, but not actually do the swap till im sure what snake i want as you say :notworthy::lol2:

thats the best way i can handle it i think and taking your adivce and others adivece on ehre aslso


----------



## Vikx993 (Sep 20, 2010)

I cannot praise a corn snake enough as your first, as its my first too. 

Ok so it is not all singing and dancing like you are looking for but when they get settled they do come out and see you and like to watch you, Mine was watching me cook and butter a bagel yesterday morning lol :lol2:

What I did when I was looking in to a snake was ask loads of questions! Also had everything set up in a RUB before I got it. SO I had it set up 2-3 days before hand so it gives me time to adjust the temps and sort out aspen etc. 
You are lucky that you have a viv at the moment, I don't have one, so when my little guy gets big enough I will need to get a viv or a new RUB.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Vikx993 said:


> I cannot praise a corn snake enough as your first, as its my first too.
> 
> Ok so it is not all singing and dancing like you are looking for but when they get settled they do come out and see you and like to watch you, Mine was watching me cook and butter a bagel yesterday morning lol :lol2:
> 
> ...


thats just it, when i look up which ill be doing alot, it will still come down to holding one at the shop, if that one i choose just so happens to be under 2 ft ill have to set up my 35 L rub.

if its 2 feet or over then its auto in to the viv.

------------------------------------------------------------------

i think Ive annoyed some people on my choices on snake keeping, its my fault i made some mistakes, like not reading up fully on the royal before buying the viv and royal as a set together.

so now I'm trying to read up on a snake that suits my wants in a snake.
then ill ask about stock if they have any, but then like i said it will come down to what its like when i hold them at the shop that ill make my final decision


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> i know i have to choose one thats right for me, but i think with shops if i asked them to buy it, even if they did, lets say a 2ft royal can sell for 75 to 100, id be lucky if the shop gave me £20
> and there ain't many snakes if any going for that price



You will be very lucky to get £40 for your Royal :whistling2:. I don't know where you got the £75-£100 from, going rate for a male normal Royal is about £30-£40 :2thumb:.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> You will be very lucky to get £40 for your Royal :whistling2:. I don't know where you got the £75-£100 from, going rate for a male normal Royal is about £30-£40 :2thumb:.


before i got this royal as a set with a viv, i tried at 2 shops in ashton under lyne 1 tried to sell me one for 75 and the other tried to sell me one for 100 both 2 to 3 ft only thats why i said as a reference, pluss when i look in pre loved ads, the going rate is 75 or above, although on a odd occation youll get one for 50 or 40


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> thats just it, when i look up which ill be doing alot, it will still come down to holding one at the shop, if that one i choose just so happens to be under 2 ft ill have to set up my 35 L rub.


I wouldn't stick to looking at just one shop either, Kale. Sure, the one you've talked to already has offered you a trade, but they're only going to trade you for a value of snake where they can resell your royal at a profit. And if the value (and selection) you can get for your royal at trade-in doesn't result in a selection that has a snake that suits YOU it's better if you do just outright SELL your royal to the shop - and save up until you can get a snake you're really happy with and ticks as many boxes as possible instead of just one that handles nice at the shop.

Visit several shops in the area - as I said, Glossop isn't all that far from where I am, and it's a relatively easy train journey on a Saturday to get from Manchester to Leeds, for example. 

Visiting different shops will give you different keepers' perspective on species - what you need to do is build a sort of "overview" - find the things that are most commonly said about each species. For example, although I've suggested garter snakes as a possibility, a shop might recommend against one because they don't want feeding on _only _pinky mice (mine eat sliced trout fillets with supplements). 



> i think Ive annoyed some people on my choices on snake keeping


Not so much that you've annoyed me personally, but that I'm worried you're wanting something from a pet snake that a pet snake just plain can't give in the first month or so, and that you might be disappointed in ANY pet snake.

If you don't mind me asking... 

Have you spent any significant time around other people's pet snakes? Not shop snakes, but snakes that a friend or family member keeps?



kaleluk31 said:


> before i got this royal as a set with a viv, i tried at 2 shops in ashton under lyne 1 tried to sell me one for 75 and the other tried to sell me one for 100 both 2 to 3 ft only thats why i said as a reference, pluss when i look in pre loved ads, the going rate is 75 or above, although on a odd occation youll get one for 50 or 40


You might find that £75 or above is the "_staying_" rate rather than the "going" rate... since people do struggle to sell male royals for anything like that amount 

Shop prices are very different to private prices, since shops have overheads - wages, ground rent, licencing, insurance, all of that - to pay.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> SELL your royal to the shop - and save up until you can get a snake you're really happy with and ticks as many boxes as possible instead of just one that handles nice at the shop.
> 
> Visit several shops in the area - as I said, Glossop isn't all that far from where I am, and it's a relatively easy train journey on a Saturday to get from Manchester to Leeds, for example. .


leeds is about 2 trains something like a 2 hour train ride
it takes me 35 misn to picadilly station but ieve never traveled to leeds via train
if i sold it at the shop it be like giving it away because of the wags over eds etc as you mentioned.



> Visiting different shops will give you different keepers' perspective on species - what you need to do is build a sort of "overview" - find the things that are most commonly said about each species. For example, although I've suggested garter snakes as a possibility, a shop might recommend against one because they don't want feeding on _only _pinky mice (mine eat sliced trout fillets with supplements)


im still on the fence about swapping or sellling the royal, but ive looked around and i kinda have my eye on a hypo lavinder corn snake, not the normal lavinders the opnes that go REALLY purpple like.





> If you don't mind me asking...
> 
> Have you spent any significant time around other people's pet snakes? Not shop snakes, but snakes that a friend or family member keeps?
> 
> ...


all id be asking is the idea is if this royal dont work out that i could get another snake thats for me but who knows

i guewss whats sticks out the most about my dislikes is the fussy eating, id rather have a pig of asnake then one that dont eat at all, then im worring if im doing the right thing or am i starving them :sad:



> Shop prices are very different to private prices, since shops have overheads - wages, ground rent, licencing, insurance, all of that - to pay.


yes your right there thats why id have to try privatly selling like in pre loved clasifieds or something


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> before i got this royal as a set with a viv, i tried at 2 shops in ashton under lyne 1 tried to sell me one for 75 and the other tried to sell me one for 100 both 2 to 3 ft only thats why i said as a reference, pluss when i look in pre loved ads, the going rate is 75 or above, although on a odd occation youll get one for 50 or 40



As has been explained shop prices are always higher than private sales, you won't get £100 for your male. Look on the classifieds on here, you won't get more than about £50 for a male Royal unless it is a really nice dinker :2thumb:. It's the females that sell for more (a breeding weight female thats say 1500g will be upwards of £150).

Also you have not fed your Royal yet so how can you say it will be a fussy feeder? There are quite a few Royals who aren't fussy (my Super Pastel will nail a mouse every time i offer, apart from when he's in shed).


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> As has been explained shop prices are always higher than private sales, you won't get £100 for your male. Look on the classifieds on here, you won't get more than about £50 for a male Royal unless it is a really nice dinker :2thumb:. It's the females that sell for more (a breeding weight female thats say 1500g will be upwards of £150).
> 
> Also you have not fed your Royal yet so how can you say it will be a fussy feeder? There are quite a few Royals who aren't fussy (my Super Pastel will nail a mouse every time i offer, apart from when he's in shed).


then the guys at the shops where tryin to rip me off, daym :gasp:

must have seen me comming as they say:bash:
i must have sucker written on my head :lol2:


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

kaleluk31 said:


> then the guys at the shops where tryin to rip me off, daym :gasp:
> 
> must have seen me comming as they say:bash:
> i must have sucker written on my head :lol2:



No they aren't ripping you off, shops will always charge more for their stock as they have overheads to pay as has already been explained to you. This is why it is always better to buy from a private breeder as they haven't the overheads to pay so can afford to keep the prices down. I bought my male normal Royal last October for £25 from the breeder that i have since bought most of my Royals from :2thumb:, yet a normal male hatchling from a shop could be anything from £50 to £100+. My Lesser male was £300, whereas a shop would probably sell a Lesser male for £400-£450.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

corny girl said:


> No they aren't ripping you off, shops will always charge more for their stock as they have overheads to pay as has already been explained to you. This is why it is always better to buy from a private breeder as they haven't the overheads to pay so can afford to keep the prices down. I bought my male normal Royal last October for £25 from the breeder that i have since bought most of my Royals from :2thumb:, yet a normal male hatchling from a shop could be anything from £50 to £100+. My Lesser male was £300, whereas a shop would probably sell a Lesser male for £400-£450.


400-500 :gasp:
private buying all the way then:lol2:

thankyou so much for your time in helping me:2thumb:


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> leeds is about 2 trains something like a 2 hour train ride
> it takes me 35 misn to picadilly station but ieve never traveled to leeds via train


Yup, it takes a while to get there, but it's definitely worth travelling around. Maybe even waiting until you can get yourself to one of the shows next year to meet breeders who actually keep the snakes at home.



> i kinda have my eye on a hypo lavinder corn snake, not the normal lavinders the opnes that go REALLY purpple like.


Hypo Lavenders tend to go peachy-light-orange, not as much actual PURPLE. 



> all id be asking is the idea is if this royal dont work out that i could get another snake thats for me but who knows


Yes, but what experience do you have of "other people's snakes"? 

If you don't have any experience of snakes other than this royal and "snakes at the shop" you don't really know what snakes are like on a day to day basis. 

What I'm trying to establish is whether you actually want a pet *snake* or whether a pet LIZARD might suit you better for what you want from a pet reptile.



> i guewss whats sticks out the most about my dislikes is the fussy eating, id rather have a pig of asnake then one that dont eat at all, then im worring if im doing the right thing or am i starving them :sad:


You *haven't experienced* fussy, Kale.

You've experienced "normal snake settling in, going into shed, and still settling in." As I said - if you went out today and bought a sub-adult corn snake, no matter how good a feeder it might be for the previous owner - it might not feed for two to four weeks after you get it home.

Call it *fussy *when you haven't been able to get it (and that's "It" as in ANY snake species) to eat for twelve to twenty weeks, it's starting to lose weight, and you've already tried scenting, switching prey items and have had it down to the vet for a faecal exam...


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> You *haven't experienced* fussy, Kale.
> 
> Call it *fussy *when you haven't been able to get it (and that's "It" as in ANY snake species) to eat for twelve to twenty weeks, it's starting to lose weight, and you've already tried scenting, switching prey items and have had it down to the vet for a faecal exam...


ok what i should say ive heard countless stories of how they are fussy when it comes to feeding/ and with all this trouble, and when i forst got it , it would not even look at the mouse.

for future reference when it does feed, and you leave it alone for 3 days

is there something i should do about the heat or is 90f 32.2C ok as it is, cos i know they like the heat when they fed for diegestion


----------



## Ssthisto (Aug 31, 2006)

kaleluk31 said:


> ok what i should say ive heard countless stories of how they are fussy when it comes to feeding/ and with all this trouble, and when i forst got it , it would not even look at the mouse.


I wouldn't start worrying about "fussy feeder" or calling any snake that until you actually have the experience to know what a fussy feeder really is. 

Right now, you've got a not-settled-in snake. Doesn't matter what species it is. Some snakes - of many species - might take a prey item ten minutes after you got them home. Other snakes - of many species - might take a few weeks to settle in enough to want to risk eating and being vulnerable.

I have a black rat snake who is willing to eat maybe once a month at the moment - and royal pythons that would eat everything I threw at them, including the kitchen sink. 



> for future reference when it does feed, and you leave it alone for 3 days
> 
> is there something i should do about the heat or is 90f 32.2C ok as it is, cos i know they like the heat when they fed for diegestion


They'll use their normal basking heat to digest - you don't want to have them get COLD while they digest, but if they get too hot they sometimes regurgitate, and you have NEVER smelled anything so vile.


----------



## kaleluk31 (Sep 6, 2010)

Ssthisto said:


> I wouldn't start worrying about "fussy feeder" or calling any snake that until you actually have the experience to know what a fussy feeder really is.
> 
> Right now, you've got a not-settled-in snake. Doesn't matter what species it is. Some snakes - of many species - might take a prey item ten minutes after you got them home. Other snakes - of many species - might take a few weeks to settle in enough to want to risk eating and being vulnerable


 
you know what, after everyones advice which im very greatfull for ive decided to give it another few weeks see if things change

besides its feeding day on tuesday:2thumb:


----------



## Kalouda (Sep 1, 2010)

If not, send him to me


----------



## corny girl (Aug 30, 2009)

When it comes to feeding warm the mouse/rat up in warm water. Dry it off on some kitchen roll & using feeding tongs just dangle it outside the hide your snake is in (don't touch the snake with the mouse/rat as this will stress the snake). If it shows no interest put the head of the rodent in some hot water for about 20 seconds (don't put all of it in, you just want to super warm the head). Then try offering again, if it still refuses then leave it next to the hide for the snake to find. It might also be worth covering the viv over with a towel of blanket as this will give a nice dark enviroment for the snake :2thumb:. No peaking though :whistling2:.


----------

