# Bearded Dragon Has Red Dots!!!?!?



## Lewis2312 (Aug 9, 2011)

I have a bearded dragon, believed to be around 6/7 months, and I have had her for around 3 weeks. Around 2 days ago I noticed some red dots on her, are they mites? Part of her pattern? Or something else? She is eating and excreting fine, plenty of energy, loves being handled, gets regular baths every 3/4 days, correct temps, with gradient, UVB 10 lighting.
























These are some pics of them, the quality isn't very good as they are from my iPhone, but 3 are of the same area on her back towards her head and one at the start of her tail! 

PLEASE HELP>?!!?!


----------



## nicnet (Apr 3, 2011)

Thats a fairly nasty mite infestation.

Time to go to the vets I'm afraid for some mite treatment.

Your them going to have to strip and scrub her entire viv. Throw out an loose substrate and put her on kitchen paper until the mite are cleared. 

Scrub and clean (I thinks its) daily. Until mites are gone.


----------



## awh (Aug 20, 2008)

red mites get to the vet asap


----------



## jo-jo-beans (Jun 28, 2010)

This might be a silly question, as I can't quite see the pic clearly, but are they moving?

The reason i ask is that my beardie had one or two orange dots on him, which is just pigment.


----------



## Lewis2312 (Aug 9, 2011)

they don't move at all


----------



## SilverSky (Oct 2, 2010)

they don't look like mites to me, they look stuck on


----------



## Lewis2312 (Aug 9, 2011)

well i've tried to get them off and they don't move or seem to cause her any pain, but if they ain't mites what could they be? should I still take her to the vets to get checked out?


----------



## xxx-dztini-xxx (May 12, 2009)

thats 100% red mites, they dont move they get half under a scale and suck blood, hanging on :bash: if you use a coctail and pop one you will see blood come out 
if there went so many id advise you to follow this thread (worth a read anyway) http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/lizards/653054-red-black-mites.html

but she really is infested so a vet trip is a must


----------



## Lewis2312 (Aug 9, 2011)

how will she have got these then? i've only had her 3 weeks, will she have had them before i got her?


----------



## Bexzini (Oct 21, 2010)

Don't even bother with scrubbing the viv down. Use Callington mite spray, it can be expensive but its absolutely amazing stuff and will kill all the mites no problem. They can be incredibly difficult to shift and sometimes even cleaning the tank will do no good because they can lay dormant for ages. Just make sure the beardie is out of the viv when you use the spray


----------



## nicnet (Apr 3, 2011)

Bexzini said:


> Don't even bother with scrubbing the viv down. Use Callington mite spray, it can be expensive but its absolutely amazing stuff and will kill all the mites no problem. They can be incredibly difficult to shift and sometimes even cleaning the tank will do no good because they can lay dormant for ages. Just make sure the beardie is out of the viv when you use the spray



Scrub down will get rid of a lot of the eggs though, shorted the infestation cycle. more so if there is a loose substrate in there.


----------



## xxx-dztini-xxx (May 12, 2009)

yea id deffinately get everything out the viv, soak it, boil it you name it and give the viv a good scrub then spray callingtons EVERYWHERE!

she would of had the mites before you her most probs, unless you have other reptiles? or someone has come to visit who has them?


----------



## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

Thought I'd bump this old thread as it has a lot of information I want to refer to. My rankin's has red mites, I have started my own thread here. I've purchased callington mite spray and have some questions. I will obviously spray the whole viv down with it once it comes but can you use it on your reptiles too to kill the ones there? She's only tiny so don't know how to go about it. If I can't spray her then how do I kill the ones on her?

Seeing as I'm waiting for the callingtons to arrive I am currently using alcohol hand gel as per this thread. Should I be doing anything differently or anything else?

Tom.


----------



## nicnet (Apr 3, 2011)

Since your a more experience keeper and will know how to observe changes etc...Have a read of this.

Its from a very reputable reptile vet

Severnside Veterinary Group Vets Forest of Dean Veterinarians


.


----------



## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

nicnet said:


> Since your a more experience keeper and will know how to observe changes etc...Have a read of this.
> 
> Its from a very reputable reptile vet
> 
> ...


Sorry Nic, it just brings up the home page? I've had a search around but can't find anything relating to mites? Unless your simply telling me to go to a vet! :lol2:


----------



## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

After some detective work I think I've found the article elsewhere. Was this it?

This article produced by Ian Calvert, Zetland Veterinary Group. Treating the animal Product is not licensed for use in reptiles, but has been effective in a number of species however it is difficult to predict safety in all species or all individuals within a species or even individuals at all times. Consider delaying treatment or using another method if: Reptile is ill/currently being used for breeding Reptile is currently being treated with a fluoroquinolone (these drugs also have GABA antagonist activity) Reptile has shown signs of moulting (especially snakes), if about to moult delay till couple of days post moult The mites are commonly found in the groove around the eye, the cloacal area, the axillae and inguinal areas, so aim to treat these areas. Treat the periorbital area by dipping a cotton bud or swab tip in some Frontline and then carefully wipe this around the scales close to the eye. If spraying the head protect the spectacle (scale covering the cornea) with ophthalmic ointment before spraying. Weigh reptile accurately If animal weighs more than 500g use small bottle and spray at 6 sprays per kg (aim to get one spray around head area and another one around cloacal area, also axillae and inguinal areas in lizards). For animals weighing less than 500g dilute spray 50:50 with alcohol; 0.4ml Frontline (~ 1 spray) with 0.4ml of alcohol. This will treat 160g of reptile (i.e. 0.1ml of mix will treat 20g of reptile). Mix well then draw up into insulin syringe and use this to trickle diluted frontline over reptile concentrating on key areas. NB if in doubt reduce dose in small animals as surface area to volume increases as size decreases. Alternatively put required amount of frontline on cloth or paper towel and wipe over animal. Consider using reduced dose for first usage on new individual or species. Keep sprayed animal in well-ventilated area for 2-4 hours after spraying. Don't put reptile back in vivarium or unventilated box - breathing alcoholic fumes pickles lungs! Ideally put animal in open weave cloth bag for a few hours. Ensure reptile has access to high humidity hide box post use (damaging the lipid layer in reptiles skin can increase cutaneous water losses up to 15 times and effect of frontline on this layer is unknown). Treating the vivarium Remove as much of the vivarium furniture as possible and burn. Spray non-disposable items with Frontline, spray vivarium with Frontline concentrating on cracks and crevices. Shut vivarium and turn temperature up to 95-100ºF for 3-4 hours (this helps to desiccate nymphs and stimulates hatching of eggs). Monitor vivarium over this period because of fire risk due to alcohol vapour. Open vivarium and ventilate for 3-4 hours BEFORE putting the reptile back to ensure all alcohol vapour has dissipated. Repeat treatment on animal and vivarium at 3-4 week intervals for 3-4 times This interval assumes Frontline is retained in the lipid layer present in reptile skin (which seems reasonable based on the product's lipophilic chemistry but isn't yet proven) and therefore has some residual action. The life cycle egg to egg laying adult is about 21-30 days. Common reptile species treated without adverse effects so far Boa constrictor, Rosy Boa, Rainbow boa, Emerald tree boa, Burmese python, Royal python, Children's python, Green iguana, Water dragon, Bearded dragon, Frilled lizard, Leopard gecko, Basilisk lizard, Rough green snake, Californian kingsnake, Sinaloan milk snake, Corn snake, Hog nosed snake, Pine snake, Blue tongued skink, Panther chameleon, Chameleo montium, Mellor's chameleon, Green lizard, Eyed lizard, Savannah (Bosc) monitor, Blue-tailed monitor, Water monitor, Plated lizard. Adverse reports so far Breathing problems then death after use in a Boa constrictor. Snake had paramyxovirus on post mortem. One Rough Green snake died after use - suspect this was due to overdose/alcohol - these are very small snakes. NB. both cases were transferred uses i.e. Frontline bought for other animals! 

I've already ordered the callingtons though so think ill wait for that to arrive. Cheers anyway though Nic. I've bookmarked it!


----------



## tomcannon (Jan 2, 2008)

Hoping the callingtons will be here tomorrow. Anyone know about spraying the rankins? She's 25g if that helps. 

Tom.


----------



## Tyzer (Nov 11, 2012)

tomcannon said:


> Hoping the callingtons will be here tomorrow. Anyone know about spraying the rankins? She's 25g if that helps.
> 
> Tom.


There a pain in the ass i had a pet rat one day seemed fine next day he was covered in them died two days later due to them


----------



## MrJsk (Jul 29, 2012)

tomcannon said:


> Hoping the callingtons will be here tomorrow. Anyone know about spraying the rankins? She's 25g if that helps.
> 
> Tom.


It should say on the box / little leafleat inside the box or on the bottle how many sprays per (whatever measurement of weight) that the lizard is.

(this is how a worming spray works anyway)


----------

