# Pulse vs dimmer vs regular thermostat?



## si_man306 (Jan 6, 2011)

Currently looking at a new habistat to run a tube heater in my iguana viv but with these different types of thermostats on offer, what is the difference between them and what's best?

I'm aware regular is just on/off but pulse is on/off rapidly to achieve a more accurate heat- but then what does a dimmer do? (I was under the impression that dimmer or "rheostat" thermostats were the same as in the home, i.e. very rapid cycles of on/off)

Does electricity economy vary to achieve the same temp?
Alter longevity of what you're using to heat? (eg ceramic/ tube?)

As it's now winter and fuel bills are at a maximum thought this might be an interesting topic as many are trying to heat they're reptiles efficiently and well!


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## buddylouis (Apr 28, 2011)

Personally i would go for a pulse stat, imo you will get a steadier heat, i have my basking light on a dimmer stat and it is very effective but with the tubular heaters being a non light source i think a pulse stat would be better and if set at a good level it will only come on and be in use when temps drop below the recommended guidelines hence you'll only pay for when its being used/needed.

Hope that made some kind of sense, my head hurts i have man flu, lol :2thumb:


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## si_man306 (Jan 6, 2011)

Thanks for that! I think I need to take the plunge today. I think a 4ft 180w greenhouse unit on a pulse stat should do the trick although as I want to boost the temps up a fair bit i'm looking at the 240w too (but the 240w is only 'high humidity resistant' rather than spray resistant- oh the options!!)

Eventually it'll be used with an arcadia T5 system so I can get rid of the arcadia MVB i've got in there


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## NicolasB (Jul 11, 2009)

i would also pulse stat for a tube heater...

out of curiosity, why a tube heater and not just a CHE?


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## buddylouis (Apr 28, 2011)

I think if its only for ambient temps the smaller of the two will do the trick nicely, iguanaquinn uses them so his input may be required here, lol. But what you suggest sounds good to me, this is something i'm also looking at, i'm keeping a close eye on my nighttime temps at the moment with winter upon us and still i'm not having any problems, my iguana viv is in our lounge so its quite a warm room anyway, but i'm still thinking about it as a back up system :2thumb:


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## si_man306 (Jan 6, 2011)

Great...pulse stat it is then. 

I've currently got a ceramic (100w) in there on a thermostat and it's not up to the job- viv is 7ft x 5 ft x 3.5ft so a large area to heat during the day the mvb used to boost fine but i've dropped the wattage lately due to UV issues with the old unit I had. 

The ceraimic is fine for local heat and the evening but I need a real ambient temp boost for during the day- looked at AHS heaters but was advised to go the tubular heater way due to AHS not producing as much heat as you'd like per Watt. They're also cheaper to buy and run!

Buddy- it's not really evening heat (ceramic lifts ambient night heat to ~24 degrees C which i'm happy with) but day heat (to 30 degrees C plus) that I need, which is why i'm considering employing the larger firepower! When I switch to arcadia T5 lighting from the MVB, i'll be loosing the heat from that during the day too so will need a fair bit of heat pumping into it.


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## NicolasB (Jul 11, 2009)

si_man306 said:


> Great...pulse stat it is then.
> 
> I've currently got a ceramic (100w) in there on a thermostat and it's not up to the job- viv is 7ft x 5 ft x 3.5ft so a large area to heat during the day the mvb used to boost fine but i've dropped the wattage lately due to UV issues with the old unit I had.
> 
> The ceraimic is fine for local heat and the evening but I need a real ambient temp boost for during the day- looked at AHS heaters but was advised to go the tubular heater way due to AHS not producing as much heat as you'd like per Watt. They're also cheaper to buy and run!


I get fully where you are coming from, my personal view would be this - 

instaed of a single 240w tube heater, why not have 3 x 100w CHE's, spread out over a larger area? yes, 60w more power being used, but you would be able to spread the heat more evenly (In my mind anyway!)

And if you have a habistat pulse stat, you can run all 3 CHE's off of it, and if you know a thing or 2 about electrics you can connect them in "Series" so if one blows they all shut off, rather than one blowing and the other 2 ending up on permanently...

Just a thought...? (Or am i living on another planet again this morning!?) :lol2:


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## buddylouis (Apr 28, 2011)

si_man306 said:


> Great...pulse stat it is then.
> 
> I've currently got a ceramic (100w) in there on a thermostat and it's not up to the job- viv is 7ft x 5 ft x 3.5ft so a large area to heat during the day the mvb used to boost fine but i've dropped the wattage lately due to UV issues with the old unit I had.
> 
> ...


Personally i wouldn't rely on one for an high end heat source, don't forget iggy's should get there heat from above, thats why we use basking lights, whether it be MVB or a normal bulb accompanied by a UVB set up. Personally i'd lose the MVB when it needs to be replaced and get the T5 set up, and use a floodlight of some description for basking heat (i.e. from above) and the tubular heater for helping with ambient temps.

Thats just my opinion though mate, see what others have to say :2thumb:


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## buddylouis (Apr 28, 2011)

NicolasB said:


> I get fully where you are coming from, my personal view would be this -
> 
> instaed of a single 240w tube heater, why not have 3 x 100w CHE's, spread out over a larger area? yes, 60w more power being used, but you would be able to spread the heat more evenly (In my mind anyway!)
> 
> ...


Or ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :lol2:


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## si_man306 (Jan 6, 2011)

buddylouis said:


> Personally i wouldn't rely on one for an high end heat source, don't forget iggy's should get there heat from above, thats why we use basking lights, whether it be MVB or a normal bulb accompanied by a UVB set up. Personally i'd lose the MVB when it needs to be replaced and get the T5 set up, and use a floodlight of some description for basking heat (i.e. from above) and the tubular heater for helping with ambient temps.
> 
> Thats just my opinion though mate, see what others have to say :2thumb:


Yeah- thats my concern and perhaps several ceramics (run off the same stat- like that idea!) might be a better bet. Also happy to run them in series which is also a great plan.

Tubes seem to be an option for slightly boosting ambient temps rather than achieving the big day heat i'm after. However, if ambient temps are up, the local basking light+ ceramic will be able to boost temps better to produce that basking high heat. 

Also- the tube heater will be at the top of the viv out of reach (to avoid him sitting on it!) so heat will still be from above where he's used to getting it.


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## si_man306 (Jan 6, 2011)

NicolasB said:


> I get fully where you are coming from, my personal view would be this -
> 
> instaed of a single 240w tube heater, why not have 3 x 100w CHE's, spread out over a larger area? yes, 60w more power being used, but you would be able to spread the heat more evenly (In my mind anyway!)
> 
> ...


My only worry with this is i'm after high temps, so although 1 x 300w bulb would produce more heat (albeit local) i'm not sure 100w x 3 would produce that- just the same heat over a wider area? Thats said, using your plan just with perhaps 200w, 150w, 100w bulb to get a heat gradient would be fine- although big money to run :lol

Also, as the tube heater is 4ft and the heat will radiate along the whole length, it should be fairly spread out...?

Argh! I also pm'd iguanaquinn to ask what she's using as it would be great to get some details from someone with the set up.


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## buddylouis (Apr 28, 2011)

si_man306 said:


> Yeah- thats my concern and perhaps several ceramics (run off the same stat- like that idea!) might be a better bet. Also happy to run them in series which is also a great plan.
> 
> Tubes seem to be an option for slightly boosting ambient temps rather than achieving the big day heat i'm after. However, if ambient temps are up, the local basking light+ ceramic will be able to boost temps better to produce that basking high heat.
> 
> Also- the tube heater will be at the top of the viv out of reach (to avoid him sitting on it!) so heat will still be from above where he's used to getting it.


Fair do's mate, i didn't even think about mounting at the top, told you my head hurts, lol.

Personally i do prefer heat coming from a light source during the day, increases UVA and that way way you're not just relying on UVB tube for all viv light.

What about running a series with one heat source as a normal basking floodlight then others CHE, not sure how because like i say my head really hurts at the moment lol but there must be a way :2thumb: I know you'd lose the heat at night in that part but the other CHE's should keep the night ambients up to an acceptable level anyway :2thumb:


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## NicolasB (Jul 11, 2009)

si_man306 said:


> My only worry with this is i'm after high temps, so although 1 x 300w bulb would produce more heat (albeit local) i'm not sure 100w x 3 would produce that- just the same heat over a wider area? Thats said, using your plan just with *perhaps 200w, 150w, 100w *bulb to get a heat gradient would be fine- although big money to run :lol
> 
> Also, as the tube heater is 4ft and the heat will radiate along the whole length, it should be fairly spread out...?
> 
> Argh! I also pm'd iguanaquinn to ask what she's using as it would be great to get some details from someone with the set up.


I think what i have highlighted above makes it a redundant alternative to be fair, if you are going to use 3 x 250 CHE's, i would rather go for 2 x Tubes (Considering they are 4 foot!) they will use less power and probably give you the same spread. (Didnt realise how long they were!)

one thing also to consider - Ig's dont just follow heat, they follow light for their basking spot, a simple solution for me is to use a small bulb - 60w or 100w to creat the "Spot" and then have a CHE alongside it to ensure the temperature is getting to the 95f he needs...?

Rusty the Red Rescue is currently using a 40w spot light which i aimed directly under her compact UVB bulb and then put a CHE pretty close, so i think I have tricked her into thinking the heat is coming from the compact! :lol2: She spends most of her day lying on her branch about 8 inches from the compact, which is exactly what i need if i am ever going to be able to reverse her MBD! (Well a T5 setup is actually what i need, but finances cant handle that right now! :bash

P.S - have you seen what temps the CHE's are capable of achieving??? I checked the 250w i am using at the moment and it says it is rated to over 500c!!! so i think 3 x 100w will still reach a good level for you, just thinking out loud...


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## si_man306 (Jan 6, 2011)

NicolasB said:


> I think what i have highlighted above makes it a redundant alternative to be fair, if you are going to use 3 x 250 CHE's, i would rather go for 2 x Tubes (Considering they are 4 foot!) they will use less power and probably give you the same spread. (Didnt realise how long they were!)
> 
> one thing also to consider - Ig's dont just follow heat, they follow light for their basking spot, a simple solution for me is to use a small bulb - 60w or 100w to creat the "Spot" and then have a CHE alongside it to ensure the temperature is getting to the 95f he needs...?
> 
> ...


Agree with this.

He was happiest (and thriving quite frankly) when he had a high energy MVB next to a ceramic, which also provided night heat (he ALWAYS sleeps in the same spot at the top of the viv so local heat there wasn't so much of an issue). 

I've just ordered a much more powerful ceramic (200w) with a pulse stat. He'll then have the mvb 100w for during the day. The ceramic will be run on a lower temp setting at night. I'll see how that goes (trial and error) and then at no extra cost can add a tube to the set up later.

When the MVB goes i'll replace it with a non-UV regular basking bulb which will still be next to the ceramic and provide the 'spot'

I'll let you know how I get on!

EDIT- I have 4 red eared sliders (such wonderful and easy animals to keep) who are going to be getting jealous of all this attention yoshi (the iguana) is getting and will start making demands for 5 star accommodation soon i'm sure! :lol


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## NicolasB (Jul 11, 2009)

Top stuff, let us know how you get on...

I know the feeling, spent so much sorting the AWD viv, then felt guilty coz i had been neglecting the YBS, so spent a fortune on him for lights etc as well, no wonder i'm skint!

The YBS is in a different part of the house to the AWD so at least he cant see them and get jealous!

Tried giving him a roach the other night, he went mental and it was gone in seconds!!!!



si_man306 said:


> Agree with this.
> 
> He was happiest (and thriving quite frankly) when he had a high energy MVB next to a ceramic, which also provided night heat (he ALWAYS sleeps in the same spot at the top of the viv so local heat there wasn't so much of an issue).
> 
> ...


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## si_man306 (Jan 6, 2011)

buddylouis said:


> Fair do's mate, i didn't even think about mounting at the top, told you my head hurts, lol.
> 
> Personally i do prefer heat coming from a light source during the day, increases UVA and that way way you're not just relying on UVB tube for all viv light.
> 
> What about running a series with one heat source as a normal basking floodlight then others CHE, not sure how because like i say my head really hurts at the moment lol but there must be a way :2thumb: I know you'd lose the heat at night in that part but the other CHE's should keep the night ambients up to an acceptable level anyway :2thumb:



I think thats a great idea.

Also i'm pretty sure the arcadia T5 tubes run UVA and UVB? They're new technology and meant to be incredibly trick (and better than the uva/ uvb mvb's- hang on, thats just too many letters!). 

I've made my mind up now...I'm going to get the pulse night/ day stat and a better ceramic first (200w) as he was doing really well when I had heat in that area (with the old higher Watt MVB). That way, I can set high day temps and then allow it to drop, using the same ceramic, at night to the ~24 degrees I have now.

Simples! If it doesn't work, I can add ceramics (run off the same stat or with my old regular stat i'll still have) or use the pulse stat (expensive to buy!) on a tube I can buy later.


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## buddylouis (Apr 28, 2011)

si_man306 said:


> I think thats a great idea.
> 
> Also i'm pretty sure the arcadia T5 tubes run UVA and UVB? They're new technology and meant to be incredibly trick (and better than the uva/ uvb mvb's- hang on, thats just too many letters!).
> 
> ...


Sounds like a plan :2thumb:

You're right about the T5 tubes aswell, its just by adding a heat source that also emits light adds UVA and will generally attract your iguana to that spot and recognise it as a basking spot, i.e. kinda replicating the sunlight in a way with the UVB coming from the tube.

I have recently changed over to the T5 set up in our iguana viv and its very impressive :2thumb:


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## si_man306 (Jan 6, 2011)

buddylouis said:


> Sounds like a plan :2thumb:
> 
> You're right about the T5 tubes aswell, its just a light heat source adds UVA and will generally attract your iguana to that spot and a basking spot, i.e. kinda replicating the sunlight in a way with the UVB coming from the tube.
> 
> I have recently changed over to the T5 set up in our iguana viv and its very impressive :2thumb:


Ah, I hadn't realised you were running the T5's. What spec set up did you get? Also did you go for the double tubes or the single?


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## buddylouis (Apr 28, 2011)

si_man306 said:


> Ah, I hadn't realised you were running the T5's. What spec set up did you get? Also did you go for the double tubes or the single?


Single mate, considered double but mounting a second smaller tube in the basking area would've been problematic with the other heat lighting set up over basking area, there was no way of safely doing it, so single T5 12% D3+ tube running the majority of they way across top of viv, with a log diaganally running from bottom of top half of viv to almost top of top half, so iguana can decide how close she wants to be without being able to get to close, the top of her dody can get to about 1 foot away at the closest point and then works it way away :2thumb:

Also have a 10% T8 reptisun in bottom half of viv for even further reduced levels of UVB, so she can do as she pleases, lol or even come out for a wonder and use me as her climbing frame her bottom door is generally left open during the day when i'm in so she can free roam, she goes to and from her viv on her own.

There are branches, logs, shelves, a nesting box, a bath and hiding places around her viv so she can generally get what she wants when she wants with regards to heat and light or come out for a roam during the day if she wants.


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