# what do i do now, glass measurements?



## Spencer95 (Feb 20, 2010)

Well im making a 3ftx18"x18" viv and i've got to the stage were i need to find out the measurements for the glass what do i do?

I read "how to make a vivarium" and just looking for a bit more in detail on how to measure etc?

should i do a few test bits with cardboard? 

how much (approx) will it cost? 

thanks Liam: victory:


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## Spencer95 (Feb 20, 2010)

anybody?:whistling2:


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

Each door needs to be an inch or so wider than half the width of the viv front, so they overlap in the middle, ie if the viv front is 28" and you make the doors 15" each, then you'll get a 2" overlap in the middle, which is about what mine are. 

To measure the height you measure from the top of the top runner to the top of the bottom runner and deduct a couple of mm, this will allow enough clearance for the glass to fit in the runners but not fall out!

It might be worth doing a test with card as you've not done it before. 

Cost is hard to say, it depends whether you use plain or toughened, or laminated glass, and what your local glaziers are like, some are more expensive than others. I recently paid a tenner for two 4mm plain glass doors for a similar size viv.


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## Spencer95 (Feb 20, 2010)

thank you


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## DarrylLG (Jun 9, 2010)

The depth of the top track.










• Calculating the width if the two sliding doors:
1. Divide the internal width by 2.
2. Add 5mm to the above result.
3. The final result is the width measurement for each of the two sliding doors
The 5mm added to each door, result in the overlap, when the doors are placed in the tracks.
• Calculating the height if the two sliding doors:
1. Add the depth of the top track and the height between the top and bottom tracks.
2. Subtract 2mm to the above result.
3. The final result is the height measurement for each of the two sliding doors
The 2mm deduction allows just enough clearance when lifting the doors in and out of the tracks.


23. FITTING THE DOORS
• Before fitting the doors, make sure that all the edges have been rubbed down properly.
• Pay a little more attention to the corners of each door, ensure that they are rounded off and smooth.
• Take a small block of pure bees wax and lightly rub it along the top and bottom edges of each door.
• Check that there are no obstructions in the tracks.
The doors are fitted in a sequence; this sequence is used in reverse when you want to remove the doors.
A. Hold the First door by the sides.
B. Insert the top edges into the top track channel furthest from the front.
C. Lightly push the door all the way, up into the track.









D. Gently swing the bottom of the door over bottom track.
E. The door should just clear the bottom track.









F. Position the door over the furthest channel in the bottom track.
G. Carefully lower the door in the channel.









H. The door should now sit in the both the top and bottom track and slide side to side.









Repeat the above steps to insert the other door into the channel closest to the front.









To remove the doors, this process is followed in reverse.


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

Nice post, I personally prefer a bigger overlap than 10mm, which is insufficient for many viv locks to work properly, the ones I use (ProRep I think) require a minimum of about 25mm overlap, otherwise the lock reaches the end of the ratchet and the doors are still open at the end!


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## staffy (May 8, 2009)

heres how i work out mine.

for the width i measure the total width of the viv
ie 3 foot i then half this which gives a 15mm overlap on each piece of glass.(dependant on the thickness of the sides of viv).

for the height i measure from the TOP of the BOTTOM runner to the 
TOP of the TOP runner and the deduct 3mm.

worked for me loads of times never had one fail on me yet.


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## DarrylLG (Jun 9, 2010)

You can make the overlap as big as your personal preferance, but 10mm would be the minimum.


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## Graham (Jan 27, 2007)

You'd need to use either wedges or find a lock that would work with only a 10mm overlap though, I don't think I've seen one that would, what do you use with yours?


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## DarrylLG (Jun 9, 2010)

I make my own stainless steel locks.
The design that I use allows me to any size overlap and thickness of glass.

I use a stainless steel spring steel wire that is just thick enough to slide between the two glass panels. This is then bent into a Zigzap shape to match the overlap of the doors. The long tail is then bent down the shape a hasp witch can be used with a small lock.


















I realy like this type of lock as it is unobtrusive, and can be made quickly.
in addition this lock will only engage when the doors are full closed, so no accidental gaps.


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