# official whites tree frog thread



## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

hiya 
i just thought id make a whites tree frog thread although some1 might have made 1 before
i though id share my exsperience, soo plz share your exspearience

right..............
i have 4 whites kirmit(girl),cherry(girl),rolo(boy),robyna(boy)
my boys always ways bark mostly at the kettle and when my mum talks
ages and ages ago i had 3 miss piggy,gonzo,kirmit but miss piggy and gonzo died R.I.P i dont no why they died.so then kirmit was on her own but then i found rolo and brought him home from my local rep store and she suddenly became happier well it seemed like she was happier, anyway i then found cherry and robyna and they r now living happy in a exo terra
also kirmit then developed a prolaps but my step-dad looked after him and he manged to push it back into his bottom end and she has been perfectly fine sinece,she is fine when going to the loo aswell. i am very happy with kirmit as she survived when 2 of my frogs died Miss piggy and Gonzo i dont no what caused them to die R.I.P and kirmit survived her prolaps

 thanx meg

plz plz share your exspeariences they will be sooo very much appreciated and i will love reading em 

and i love all my whites to peices:flrt:


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## Bensreptiles1 (May 26, 2011)

yeah a white tree frog thread:no1: I i have one white three frog at the moment.. i did have two but one of them died... 
Heres charlie:no1:


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

aww:flrt:what a cutie he looks like my robyna


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## kirsty-kay (Nov 19, 2011)

here is my re vamped whites tree frog viv, i have 3 of them graham, gracie and rana.


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## Drayvan (Jul 7, 2010)

Yay :no1: cant wait to see all the froggies that will be added to this! Recently rescued my little guy, will hopefully be adding another one or two to keep him company but so far hes in his quarantine tank. Really pleased with how hes going and looking forward to getting him set up in a nice big live planted tank in the next moth or so. (im assuming hes a he, iv no idea on sex or age of him so any opinions welcome :2thumb

This was the day he arrived at ours:









And the day after:









I really need to take some more pictures now he is strong enough to climb the vines and hunt his own food.... this thread would be a good excuse to :whistling2:


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Guess I'd best post. We have 3 males, Froggy, Hoppity and Hippity (wife named them... lol).





































Their viv:-










Ade


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

aww there all so sweet frogs ill post some of my froggles on here tomozza


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## obrowell (Jan 8, 2010)

These were ours - Ozzie and Bruce: victory:


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

obrowell said:


> These were ours - Ozzie and Bruce: victory:
> 
> image
> 
> ...


Loving the branch in that viv.


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## pike (Feb 19, 2012)

great pictures .what is the plant the froggies are sitting on the leaf?


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

i dont no what kinda plant it is either, but i want 1 :2thumb: for my frogsters


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## Jazzy B Bunny (Jun 21, 2007)




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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

im lovin that frogster:flrt:


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

pike said:


> great pictures .what is the plant the froggies are sitting on the leaf?





frogmadmeg said:


> i dont no what kinda plant it is either, but i want 1 :2thumb: for my frogsters


 Pretty sure it's _Philodendron scandens_, the sweetheart vine. It's a tough climber and trailer, much like pothos, but without the variegation. Like pothos, it's not too fussy about intense lighting or perfect soil, and it can stand up to being plonked on by large treefrogs.:2thumb:


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## pike (Feb 19, 2012)

cheers ron:notworthy:


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

hey guys thanx for all da ryplys :notworthy:


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## Jenface (Apr 8, 2012)

Here's my two Kaeru and Rana. Rana's the bigger of the two









*Here's some solo shots*
Kaeru









Rana


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

Jenface said:


> Here's my two Kaeru and Rana. Rana's the bigger of the two
> image
> 
> *Here's some solo shots*
> ...


aww:flrt:kaeru is like da size of ya finger


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## obrowell (Jan 8, 2010)

Ron Magpie said:


> Pretty sure it's _Philodendron scandens_, the sweetheart vine. It's a tough climber and trailer, much like pothos, but without the variegation. Like pothos, it's not too fussy about intense lighting or perfect soil, and it can stand up to being plonked on by large treefrogs.:2thumb:


Full marks to Ron - it was a very sturdy and robust plant. Not many can withstand a white's nightly rampage, but this one did!


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

obrowell said:


> Full marks to Ron - it was a very sturdy and robust plant. Not many can withstand a white's nightly rampage, but this one did!


Awe, shucks!:blush:


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

hey guys 

im a bit bored so im gonna ask some friendly questions 

1.whats your favourite type of frog?
2.why is it your favourite frog?
3.what r your favourite names for frogs?
4.what r some of the best frog names?

any other questions plz feel free to ask 

any info on your favourite frog would be amazingly appreshated by every 1(i no this is a wtf thread but it would be intersteing on your views on frogs(im not really sure how to explain it lol)

many thanx meg xx:flrt:


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Oof, I can't answer 1 with just 1 frog, it has to be 2.

These been dendrobates tinctorius azureas and oophaga pumilio San Cristobal.

Azureas, well they're stunningly coloured and crazy bold:-










They're also one of the best dart frogs for a beginner to darts.

The other, oophaga pumilio San Cristobal are less suitable for dart beginners, but still stunningly gorgeous and mine are EXCELLENT parents! I actually had to remove 2 film pots with tadpoles from their viv when we moved house and they got left behind for 2 whole days! I put them back in after 3 days, mum went straight to them, fed them and checked they were ok! They're now about ready to leave the water and join their brothers and sisters:-

Mum and dad (mum with a tadpole on her back)










One of the 2 older youngsters:-










Parent and young un:-










3 of the 4 youngest









Finally one of the froglets ready to leave the water:-










Those photos I reckon explain perfectly why these are my favourite frogs.

Ade


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

Wolfenrook said:


> Oof, I can't answer 1 with just 1 frog, it has to be 2.
> 
> These been dendrobates tinctorius azureas and oophaga pumilio San Cristobal.
> 
> ...


 omg they r absoultly wonderfull, im defently gonna look into getting ome whe i have more room lol
yh i saw the lil tadpole on mum aww:flrt:its soo soo cute 
i just had a load of fbt froglets morph into lil proper frogs and yh there soo soo cute 
best wishes meg xxxx


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

frogmadmeg said:


> hey guys
> 
> im a bit bored so im gonna ask some friendly questions
> 
> ...


1. All of them.
2. Because they are frogs! :2thumb:
3/4. I don't name most of mine, but my cane toad is called Gostoso ('tasty' in Portuguese, for anyone silly enough to lick him!) and my dwarf African bullfrog is called The Fat Bastard- 'cos he is.


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## Drayvan (Jul 7, 2010)

Dont think Alf was too impressed i was late in feeding him tonight... had to post these, made me chuckle anyways :lol2:


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

ron, how funny yh i have to say i like every frog because its a frog 
yh i called my painted bull frog fatboy(Author off eastenders lol

alf looks hungry and how could u be late in feeding lol u should c my horned frog when i feed him, sometimes i ova feed him only by a few crickets cause i just wana c him eat more, he moves slighty then jumps out of his hole once hes got the crickets he shuffles his bottom back in the hole and does the same to every other single crickets i put in his enclosure lol
best wishes meg xxxx


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## Drayvan (Jul 7, 2010)

frogmadmeg said:


> ron, how funny yh i have to say i like every frog because its a frog
> yh i called my painted bull frog fatboy(Author off eastenders lol
> 
> alf looks hungry and how could u be late in feeding lol u should c my horned frog when i feed him, sometimes i ova feed him only by a few crickets cause i just wana c him eat more, he moves slighty then jumps out of his hole once hes got the crickets he shuffles his bottom back in the hole and does the same to every other single crickets i put in his enclosure lol
> best wishes meg xxxx


Haha awh! my horned frogs too lazy to even shuffle :blush: he just makes a new hole wherever he ends up after hes finished eating :lol2:


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

yh the only time he does get out and shuffle is like 1 every fortninght the wrest of the time he cwait for the crickets to come to him lol


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## fardilis (Mar 22, 2011)

frogmadmeg said:


> hey guys
> 
> im a bit bored so im gonna ask some friendly questions
> 
> ...


African bullforgs, cane toads, horned frogs:2thumb:


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## frogmadmeg (Sep 4, 2011)

fardilis said:


> African bullforgs, cane toads, horned frogs:2thumb:


yh there nice little frogs


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Hi all,
Just wanted to come ask a few questions about whites, as me and my girlfriend are looking at getting 3-4 of them soon, and wanted to make sure we make no mistakes in caring for them.

Main issue we are having is figuring out where we are to place the heat mats, and how many we are going to need. I will include photos of our current set up, and it measures at 24 x 18 x 24, which yes we know it is quite big, but we feel frogs can never have too much space lol, and we got the tank on a good deal.

As you can see in this picture we have a main mat under the tank, and a small mat that usually lives under my spiders tank but the sub is fresh in and still damp so trying to dry it out.








The light fitting is a Glow Light, and we are putting a 13watt repti-glo compact 2.0 to give them a bit of UV, but not enough to burn them or produce heat that could harm them.

Also the set up isn't complete, we still have a water dish to add, and a branch or 2 for climbing, and another hanging plant.

Also if it helps we are getting the frogs at rough 1-3cm, so baby frogs lol.

Sorry for the long post, just want to make 100% sure nothing goes wrong, thanks in advance for any help given.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Hi Carm

First up, I would put the heat mat on the side. The one we are using is a 28 watt one, attached to a thermostat with the probe mounted near the glass where the mat is mounted but on the insde of the viv. If you mount it on the bottom it's going to spend a lot of energy heating up your substrate, drying it out and wasting heat. If you put it on the back it'll be harder to create a heat gradient across the width of the viv, plus your background will insulate the viv from the heat from the mat.

Regarding the size, that's not actually that big for White's tree frogs, although as youngsters it will look it.  It will happily house the 3 you are considering though, but to put things into context our White's viv is 80cm x 50cm x 60cm w x d x h, and houses our 3 adult White's. 

Branches I can recommend cork branches. They're good value and look really good.

Personally I'd also upgrade the lighting you are using, a 3x26 watt Exo compact canopy with 2 865 bulbs and 1 Arcadia D3 compact in it would do a better chop, helping to keep temps up during the day, and also giving you enough light to dump those plastic plants and grow some real ones.  Real plants are NOT hard to grow if you chose the right ones, and given that for White's the best plants are ones like pothos, prayer plant, dracaena and anthurium scandens which are all very easy to grow, they're all very easy to grow. Live plants not only look nicer, but they also help to maintain humidity levels.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Hi and thanks for the reply Ade, 

We are planning to have a heat mat on the side, this is just to try and dry some of the substrate out as it went in literally straight after preparing it, and I am thinking of putting 2 temperature readers in there, one either side, so I can keep track of the cool side and the warm side.
Does the glass not get too warm for the frogs? Last thing we want is it possibly burning them.
The current mat which we got with the tank is only a 13watt, so I was wondering if this would work.
I plan to getting a 28watt mat for the side of the tank and to put the 13watt under it, to keep the chill out the tank of the night and have the warmer mat just for day time use, would this work? Or would just swapping the mats over work? 28watt in the day 13watt at night on the side of the tank.
Also you mentioned the mat would dry out the substrate, should we avoid that completely even though this is still fresh sub and at the moment quite cold?
And one final question lol, how big of a heat mat would you suggest for the side? I found a 28watt one that is 59x28cm which would practically cover the entire side of the tank I reckon lol. and which powder should we dust the crickets with? there are so many out there, I am unsure which to go for.

Thanks again for your response, hope to hear from you again soon =)

David.


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Regarding the heat mat, I went ahead and purchased a Exo Terra Rainforest Heat Mat Large 24W I assume that should be fine?


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

The Exo rainforest mats don't get warm enough for White's I'm afraid. I tend to use either ProRep or Lucky Reptile ones myself. Day temps I maintain our White's at between 27 and 30 degrees Celsius, night temps drop to about 19 degrees Celsius.

Drying out the substrate isn't ideal, as this should be the moistest part of the viv. That way if all else fails the frogs can burrow into it. Also I prefer to keep the bottom of the viv cooler. The top tends to be warmer from the lights, so this allows the frog to regulate their temps by either moving up and down, or left and right too with the heat mat on the side.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Ok Ade, thanks for that advice, just cancelled the heatmat, would you suggest this to be a better mat? ProRep Heat Mat 28w (590 x 280mm): Amazon.co.uk: Pet Supplies

I am a bit unsure on the placement of the temperature readers, I have a humidity reader in top left of the tank (currently it's on 70-80) but the temperature I have just in the middle of the tank, opposite side (so cool side) of the tank, I do plan to put another one in though, so I can see cool and warm side temps. Any suggestions on roughly where I should put it with the above mat fitted to the side?
And should I leave a heat mat on over night, or will they be fine with having the mat off?

Also, 1 thing I forgot to ask, I am getting the 3 whites at 1-3cm each, how often will I be looking to feed them? thinking of getting size 2 crickets, which I think are like 4-6mm each, and will dust them once i figure out what dust to get once a week.

Thanks again for the reply.

David.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

That mat should be fine.

Thermometers, I find it simpler to just use an infra red one, that way you can measure the temp at various spots with the same equipment.

You'll need a thermostat for that mat though, leave it on 24/7 and hooked up to the stat. The probe for that stat should be on the opposite side of the glass to the mat.

Feeding once a day is about right. Dust I'd advise Repashy Calcium Plus, you wont find a better more complete one.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

We will look in to the thermostat in the near future, but we have pretty much spend all we can afford on the set up now, made the last few final purchases like water dish, the stronger heat mat, and couple more decorations. Currently just got basic plant pots hidden in there for hides should they need them too.

Thanks for all the information though, until we get the thermostat I think the only thing we can do is have an exo-terra Thermometer either end, and just try and keep it at the best temp/humidity we can for them.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Ok, please don't get upset with me for saying this but DO NOT run a heat mat without a thermostat. If you do, you run the risk of starting a house fire at worst, damaging your viv and animals at best. Don't do it. Wait until you can afford one, then carry on setting up.

Thermostats aren't an optional extra when heating a viv. End of the day, a mat stat will cost quite a lot less than those 3 White's you are planning to buy, so if you can afford 3 White's, you can afford a stat Habistat Mat Stat Thermostat 100w - Surrey Pet Supplies, then wait a bit longer before you get your frogs.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Alright thanks for the link
Well just ordered that we just ordered the thermostat you linked, as it was a good price (better than what I found on amazon) Just another (lol) quick question, is it pretty simple to use the thermostat? 
And the mat I bought would you suggest having that at the top half of the tank? Does the thermostat display the heat the mat/tank is currently at too?


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

That thermostat is just a simple little dial thing that you set to a temperature, then plug your mat into it. Very very simple to set up, you just put the probe and cable through a cable hole on your viv, then mount the probe on the opposite side of the glass to your mat. Then set the temp and wait for a few hours or so before you change it again to get your temps again. I have ours set to 30 degrees Celsius, which gives us a temp of 30 degrees right by the mat, dropping off as you move across the viv.

You can see where we placed the mat on our viv in this pic:-










We used a much more expensive stat though, one that shows the current temp, has a lights timer etc. But you don't NEED all that just to run a heat mat, I just had one sat doing nothing. lol

Don't worry about providing lower temps at night, when your lights go off, temps will drop, job done.

Cheapest way to monitor your viv temps, well I use one of these: Lucky Reptile Infrared Thermometer LTH-40 - Surrey Pet Supplies, in the meantime, until you can afford one, just use a standard aquarium thermometer that cost a few pounds.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

don't think our light is going to provide much of a temp drop since it's just light and UV for day time.
Also I reckon our heatmat is alot bigger than the one in your picture, will that cause any issues?


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## Heart4Darts (Oct 10, 2009)

Carm said:


> Alright thanks for the link
> Well just ordered that we just ordered the thermostat you linked, as it was a good price (better than what I found on amazon) Just another (lol) quick question, is it pretty simple to use the thermostat?
> And the mat I bought would you suggest having that at the top half of the tank? Does the thermostat display the heat the mat/tank is currently at too?


The thermostat wont display the temp, but there is a dial on it which you control, basically turn it up or down, 1 bit of advice though, dont turn it up to say 30 and expect it to be 30 in the tank. what you'll need to do is...
connect it up to your heat mat or whatever heat source you'll be using.
then put the probe into the tank in the area which you want to hit your highest temp.
so for example, top of the tank, then turn your thermostat on and turn the dial to around the temp you want, leave it for 24 hours and keep check inside the viv with a good accurate temp gauge. as the thermostats are not always precise. if your heat mat is on 1 side of the tank, and your probe on the other, the heat mat will get hotter and hotter until the probe can feel your chosen temp. so if your probe is right next to the heat mat, the heat mat wont pump out as much heat as the probe will feel the heat quicker.
(i hope you get what i mean)
thermostats are the most important piece of equiment when dealing with heat. (number 1 rule)


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

H4D, yeah I get what you mean, basically if the probe is next to the mat, then it will never make the cool end of the tank reach the required temperature. Thanks for that bit of advice, cleared up a lot of my confusion with them.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Regarding the size of the mat, our viv is considerably larger than yours, don't be fooled by that.  That's a 28 watt mat, and the viv is 80cm wide, 50cm deep and 60cm high, the mat is practically the full high of the viv. lol

Your lights WILL create a temperature difference, but as I already said, you need more powerful lights. At least 2 x 26watt bulbs rather than little 13 watt ones. You will find when your lights are on your frogs will sleep quite high up in the viv, often right under your lights.

I am going to disagree about the probe, put it next to the mat, just on the opposite side of the glass. You want it to stop the mat and glass getting much hotter than 30 degrees Celsius, you don't need even a 3rd of the way across to be 30 degrees Celsius. What you want is a very gradual reduction in temperature from right by the mat, across to the opposite side of the viv. As I have already explained, amphibians regulate their temperatures my moving around in the viv, either to a warmer area or a cooler area. You're not setting the stat to 30 degrees Celsius to make the entire viv 30 degrees Celsius, your setting it to that to give you a gradient across the viv of around 27/28 degrees at the one end, across to 30 degrees Celsius right by the mat. It's not like keeping bearded dragons where you want a high temp in the entire viv, with an even hotter basking spot.

Do NOT put the probe at the opposite side of the viv to the mat (sorry Hearts4Darts, but you're wrong there), this will just run the heat mat 24/7, and practically be as bad as running a mat without a thermostat. I know that some thermostats come with instructions telling you to do this, but for phibs it's just not the way.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Alright thanks again for the reply Ade, 
when it finally comes I will set it up and then if you don't mind, can you just confirm if I have in fact placed it correctly?
Planning to put the matt across the top half of the tank, so the bottom is cooler than the top, and there is no chance the frogs could hurt themselves on the warm glass is there?
And with the frogs been so small, should I instantly put the mat at the top half, or will they not want to go that high to begin with, so should I put it a bit lower?


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

The frogs will probably use the entire hight of the tank, but it might take them a few weeks to feel secure enough to do so.

The glass wont burn them, that's part of the reason for having the probe right by the mat. The glass should only ever be warm, rather than hot. One of my big guys is currently asleep pressed right up against the glass with the heat mat on it.

The bottom of the viv will be cooler anyway, without putting the mat at the top. Hot air rises, plus your lights will raise temps at the top a bit.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Hi again Ade, well the thermostat has arrived today, so just waiting on the new heat mat, to clarify for me though do i need the mat across the top, or somewhere mid way?
Also, as you notice in the pictures we have one them boards at the back, would it work if I put the thermostat sensor down the back of that, then have it poke out somewhere near the heatmat glass?


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

We have our mat towards the back, mid way between the top and the bottom, lenght of the mat up the viv.

Doing that with the probe should be fine, who wants all that cable on show after all?  Only cautions I will give, make sure you block off holes down behind the background, crickets will escape behind your background else. Also, there is a chance crickets will chew the paint of the background, leaving you nasty looking grey holes in it. Both 2 of the 4 reasons I don't use backgrounds on the inside of tree frog vivs. The other 2 been I prefer the look of black Fablon on the outside, then lots of branches etc in the viv, and that that method is really simple and fast to do without using more chemicals (eg. silicone) inside the viv.  Make that 5 reasons, the other been tree frogs seem to prefer the feel of the bare glass to the various backrounds I have tried. lol

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Lol well when they are small, we are thinking of feeding them while using giant tweezers, someone said something about making sure they get exercise, but also so that we know each have had a decent feed while they are small so they grow.
As I said we are getting them 1-3cm in size, what size crickets should I get for them?
We plan to feed them around 3-4 daily while small, does that sound about right? and how often should I powder them?


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## Jenface (Apr 8, 2012)

Rana making lots of noise - YouTube

Though I'd show you guys a video of Rana. He can get very loud. I've finally got a video of him croaking =]


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Carm said:


> Lol well when they are small, we are thinking of feeding them while using giant tweezers, someone said something about making sure they get exercise, but also so that we know each have had a decent feed while they are small so they grow.
> As I said we are getting them 1-3cm in size, what size crickets should I get for them?
> We plan to feed them around 3-4 daily while small, does that sound about right? and how often should I powder them?


We started our White's out on 1st instar/small hoppers (locusts), so I'd say 1st instar/small crickets. The usual guidance is if in doubt pick a size that's only as long as the gap between the animals eyes. There's no chance of their dinner getting stuck and choking them that way. Take care getting too small baby White's though, tree frogs often have a high death rate amongst their young. Our White's were larger than that when we got them, and still rather small. At 1-3cm you may find yourself needing to feed fruit flies and hatchling crickets. If you must get them that small, consider keeping them in a small viv until they grow a bit. I had some grey tree frogs that size once in a 60cm tall, a couple of them died after falling from the mesh at the top and breaking their bones on the way down...

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Well we can get them bigger from a pet shop but he is charging stupid prices lol, is there any other online retailers for phibs where we could maybe get the slightly bigger?
I mean we have got smaller tanks due to my tarantula, got 1 same size she is in now which is fairly spacious for a as it is, and a smaller one, but no way of providing heating/light for them without just putting the plastic tanks in the main tank till they grow big enough. Will that work?
Also just got the 28watt mat, and it is the full length of the tank lol, so it can't go on the side of the tank without covering the entire thing, but this is the only 28watt mat they do, so what are my options? can I remove the background and put the mat across the back width way?


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Just cover the side, wont do any harm. 

As to online retailers, I had a bad experience trying that method, bought 3 and one froze to death in transit.... They'd shrink wrapped the heat pack.... Hence we have 3 frogs rather than 4.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Well I know of 2 relatively close pet shops that trade with phibs, bit more expensive, but slightly larger than 1-3cm lol.
And you sure bout completely covering the side? it will dry some of the sub surely? lol.


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

Just to be awkward, I always use mats underneath- approximately 1/3 the size of the tank does fine, for me. I take Ade's point that with a drainage area that has water in it, the heat is more evenly distributed, which kind of cancels out the heat gradient a bit, but it seems to work anyway- it is noticably warmer on the mat side, without getting hot enough to be dangerous or damage the glass.


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Right then Ade, sorry for the double response, but I have set up the tank with thermostat i took some photos for your opinion, Mat can go across the back if needed, just wondering if the sensor is in a good place (don't worry the sensor is hidden behind a plant)
And also took a photo of the thermostat dial, to make sure it is set to the right temperature.
Thermostat marking: http://imageshack.us/a/img29/4576/img0872ee.jpg
Sensor placement: http://imageshack.us/a/img35/4610/img0870fa.jpg
Heatmat from the outside: http://imageshack.us/a/img841/5158/img0869xc.jpg
Heatmat from the inside: http://imageshack.us/a/img138/654/img0868kf.jpg
Also if you could just check my previous post regarding caring for the baby frogs.
Thanks again, I'm taking up so much of your time this general thread is quickly turning in to a caresheet specially made by you lol.

David.


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## Wolfenrook (Jul 2, 2010)

Looks fine, the thermostat setting will be trial and error though, as in you will have to see how well it works and adjust accordingly. It could be you don't need it as high, or need it higher, as there are many factors that will effect this, such as room temperature etc.

Ron, regarding heat mats on the bottom, I took have used them on the bottom, never had a single viv base crack on me. However, I also found that I couldn't get temps as high with a mat on the bottom as I could with it on the side. The simple reason for this is that when used on the bottom a portion of the heat energy produced goes into heating the water in the drainage layer and substrate, rather than into heating the viv. Great for humidity, but comes with the risk of drying out your substrate and as I say it wastes heat. Until I switched to putting the mat on the side I was having to use a halogen spotlight to reach high enough temps for my White's. 

Regarding caring for young frogs, I already answered about the food size. I can't tell you how many to feed though, that's going to depend on your frogs. Ours used to get about 6 small crickets a day, but if yours are smaller then you will need to feed them more of a smaller food, eg. hatchling crickets. My 2 remaining concerns would be the size of the viv (hight) as in risk of injury (stupid when you consider how they live in the wild, but guessing that young frogs possibly spend time in the underbrush growing), and also that they are able to locate their food without expending too much energy. My wife started out feeding ours with a pair of round tipped feeding tongues to avoid this, then as they got older switched to just freeing their food into the viv, making them hunt it. 

Your next question will be humidity... lol 50-60% relative humidity by hand spraying. Don't rely too much on a hygrometer, you'll learn over time to be able to spot humidity by looking at the glass, substrate and yes the bahaviour of your frogs. A hygromoeter though can help as you get started to give you a rough idea to guide your spraying. Don't leave it in the viv though permanently, they don't survive high humidity for long.

Ade


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## Carm (Sep 18, 2012)

Haha Ade, ironically humidity was one thing I didn't need to pester you about lol. We were planning on just going somewher between 60-80, got a reader for it in there at the moment (just your standard exoterra one).
But seriously, I just want to say thank you for your patience and all your help,if I could I would give you 1000000 rep lol, seriously, you have alot of knowledge and you explain yourself well, I kinda feel bad pestering you for this long, and as annoying as it might be I may need some more advice further down the line, but at the moment, I shall leave you in peace.

Thanks again for everything.

David.


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