# fire salamanders cleaning out



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

hiya, woundered if anyone can help, i brought a fire salamander about two weeks. i was told she only needs cleaning out every 6 weeks, but today i have gone in to feed her and it smells a bit in there and also there is these tiny flys, or so i think they are.....

i was just woundering if it was every six weeks i should clean her?
hope someone can help
thanks.

sarah


----------



## emmzy (Jan 24, 2007)

the water should have a filter in otherwise it will smell and constantly changing the water is bad for them...


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

hi ,she is a land salamander a fire one so she is not in water, her viv has got moss bedding, also does anyone know how to keep the temp down. thanks


----------



## emmzy (Jan 24, 2007)

now i feel stupid lol i thought it was they fire bellied salamander ones they had in the petshop theyr all in water, my bad!


----------



## susanamck (May 22, 2007)

if it looks like this: http://www.grizzlyrun.com/Files/Images/Image_Gallery/fire_bellied_newt_Pic.jpg

then it is a fire bellied newt not salamander and therefore the setup should be fully aquatic with only a couple of logs etc for it to climb out on.

fire salamanders are completly different and this caresheet: Fire Salamander suggests how best to look after them

why dont you post a picture of the animal so we can all see what it looks like, id it correclty and offer the right kinda help. pet shops arent always to great at iding animals and can often suggest that one animal is actually something else to charge more money for it.


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

hiya thanks for getting back to me. she is a fire salamander definetly the land living one, sorry i havent got a pic, she is black and has yellow stripes running down her, she doesnt look like that pictuer link you gave me, i brought a book on salamanders and it doesnt say anything about cleanning, but her full salamander name is salamandra fatuosa. hope you can help, thanks. sarah


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

how do i keep the tempreture down to for her, during the day. thanks


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

the set up is a tank with a moss bedding, cave hideout and water bowl.


----------



## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

decomposition will make heat.....

*i stole this...*

Fire salamanders are one of the most colourful of all salamanders and newts - they are black and bright yellow, and their skin feels quite damp and rubbery. They got their name from when they came running out of a log that they were hibernating in, when it was thrown in to a fire. This made people think they were born in the fire. 
They normally grow between 20 and 25 cm (8 - 10 inches), and can become very tame in captivity. Although they are quite popular in Europe, imports in to America are somewhat limited - perhaps due to there low temperature requirements. 
They usually live for twelve to twenty years, although some live longer. Fire salamanders are nocturnal, which means they hunt for food at night. 
They hibernate during winter. In the USA people who have salamanders tend to hibernate them during them summer, by placing them in a small tank with moss on the bottom, then putting them in an air-conditioned room, or in the refrigerator! In the UK hibernation can be accomplished by placing the salamanders in separate containers containing just damp sphagnum moss and a waterfowl. Before placing the salamanders in the container, you should fast them for about 8 days. After the fasting period the temperature in the terrarium should be cooled to just 5 degrees centigrade. Then place them in the container, which should be put in a cool, but sheltered place such as a garage, or a garden shed. 
*Selecting A Salamander*
The salamander you select should be plump but not obese (it should be impossible to see bones in the rib or hip areas, as this is a sign of malnutrition). The skin should be clear with no scratches or cuts. Eyes should be clear as well. 
Try to see the specimen you are interested in feed, to see if it is eating well. Make sure it is not overcrowded in the tank, and make sure the tank is the correct temperature. The tank should not be dirty or smelly and it should give the fire salamanders the proper environment that they require. It should not be kept in a tank with any other species of animals, as this may result in you choosing an ill salamander, that does not like the other species' toxins. 
The salamander should be transported in a well ventilated plastic container, with a substrate on the bottom. When getting a new salamander to add to a group it should be kept in a different tank on its own for a few weeks to make sure it is healthy. If you put a sick salamander in with a healthy group, it may also kill the whole group, as well as dying itself.
*Setting Up A Terrarium*​A tank measuring 90 x 40 x 30 cm is ideal for a pair or trio (one male, two females) of fire salamanders, although 60 x 40 x 30 cm will do for a pair or single adult. Two males should not be kept together, as they will probably fight. 
The substrate should be 4 - 12 cm of bark or potting soil (which can be mixed with playground sand to make an even better floor to the cage), covered with 2 - 3 cm of damp moss (preferably sphagnum). Fire salamanders like to burrow. You should have at least one hiding place per salamander, and the tank should contain some plants, fake (plastic) or real. Real plants should be replaced when they die. The water bowl should not be very deep, as Fire Salamanders are bad swimmers. 2 - 3 cm is fine. It should have a ramp in it, allowing the salamanders to climb out easily. The water should be changed regularly as the salamanders also use it as their toilet. It should be cleaned at least every other day, preferably every day. Tap water should not be used in the water bowl, as it contains chlorine, which is toxic to salamanders. Spring water or rain water is best. If tap water must be used, it has to be left to stand for three days so it can dechlorinate. Mist spray the tank every day or two, using aged tap water, rain water or spring water. 
The temperature in the tank should be 15 - 20 degrees centigrade (60 - 68 degrees Fahrenheit). When it gets to hot in the tank the salamander starts climbing the walls of the tank. They also circle the tank when they are suffering from heat stress.
When cleaning out the tank - this should be done every three or four months - make sure you replace the objects in their original spots, otherwise the salamander will get confused. 
*Feeding*​Salamanders should be fed a variety of insects, as well as some earthworms, wax-worms and spiders. They will eat any insect caught in your garden, but I do not recommend feeding salamanders wild-caught insects as they may contain insecticides. Feed your salamander at least twice a week as much as they will eat. Leave some insects loose in the tank to be eaten later. Be careful when feeding a group of salamanders as they may fight over food.
*Handling*​Although handling is not recommended, fire salamanders can be held if great care is taken and they are held in damp hands. On Fire Salamanders you can see pores running down the salamander's back and tail, and on the sides of its head. Out of these pores the salamander can release a noxious fluid if disturbed, which is especially bad if it goes in an eye. Salamanders very rarely use the fluid, and nearly all captive bred salamanders are fine to hold. When you first hold your salamander it is a good idea to wear disposable latex gloves and goggles. If the salamander does not try to squirt you, it is probably okay to hold. Wear gloves and goggles a few more times after that when handling and if it still does not release the milky fluid, it should be safe to hold without gloves or goggles. If the salamander squirts your gloves or goggles, the goggles should be thrown away, and it should not be held again, without protection.
*Breeding*
Breeding is supposedly fairly easy. All you need is a male a female or two. Sexing fire salamanders is quite easy, males have a swollen cloaca and females do not. Males are also normally slightly smaller. Fire salamanders are usually sexually mature at the age of three or four. 
In the wild mating takes place in autumn or spring. In captivity breeding occurs after a drop or rise in temperature. Mating takes places on land. The male slips underneath the female and the carries her around on his back for ages, whilst rubbing his head on her chin. Then the female will move her hind-quarters from side to side. The male releases his spermatophore (sperm packet). The female lowers her hind-quarters and picks up the spermatophore with her cloaca. The female can store the spermatophore for months. Once it is used for fertilisation, gestation itself takes two to five months. You will be able to tell when a female is ready to give birth because she will be very obese. At this point move the female to a separate tank, that has a large are of shallow water. Make sure the female can get out easily. You can include a sponge filter and a few live plants. Continue feeding her whilst she is in this tank. She will give birth to twenty to seventy live larvae, each with four legs and measuring about 2.5 cm in length, in groups over a few days. They are a mottled greenish tan, with gold specks. When she has finished giving birth, put her back to the original terrarium.
*Looking After The Larvae*
The larvae should be removed when they are born and put in a third tank, full of spring water, or old tap water. It should have a sponge filter in it and lots of live plants, for the larvae to hide in and to make the water cleaner and to improve the oxygen level in the tank. The water should be changed once a month. Feed the larvae brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito larvae, tubifex worms and other live fish foods. When they get older they will eat small insects. They should be fed about twice a day. 
In two to four months the larvae will metamorphose into baby salamanders. Just before they leave the water the larvae acquire adult colouring, at this time you should give them areas where they can get out of the water, or they will drown. The babies should be moved to small tanks set up the same as the adults' tank, but with a water bowl half as deep. Four juveniles can be kept in a tank 60 x 30 x 30 cm. The babies should be fed the same things as the adults, except they should be given smaller food.


----------



## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

Fire Salamander 
_Salamandra salamandra _(Li nnaeus, 1758) 
*Family:* Salamandridae, the newts. Although they are called salamanders, Fire Salamanders are actually newts. 
*Care Difficulty: *Moderate. If keeping theseanimals cool is not a problem, they can be considered easy. 
*Size: *Maximum lengths of just over *a *foot have been reported. Eight to ten inches can be considered average; size varies greatly by population and subspecies. 
*Description: *Theseare large, chunky newts with large, protruding eyes. They have rather flattened heads with short, somewhat rounded snouts. Perhaps a third of their body length is their tail, which is generally round in cross-section. Although the legs are short and fat, they are strong. The body of a Fire Salamander is more or less cylindrical. and from 9 to 14 costal grooves are present. Their skin is shiny in appearance and rubbery to the touch. 
Most Fire Salamanders bear visible parotoid glands behind each eye. They are oval and extend to the back of the skull. The surface of the glands is dotted with pores. Two more rows of pores run down the back on either side of the spine. The pores release noxious defensive chemicals when the salamander is threatened. These chemicals are in the form of a milky fluid. The salamanders are capable of squirting this fluid out of the pores in their backs up to distances of over a foot. A blast of this irritating spray will deter most predators. Some humans will develop skin irritations from handling ~ Fire Salamanders, but most keepers can handle them gently with no reaction and no spraying by the salamander. Other than some irritation. the secretions are not dangerous. 
Fire Salamanders are brightly colored and attractive salamanders. The basic color is black with bright to pale yellow markings. Sometimes the markings may be almost white, orange, or red. These spots form irregular blotches on the dorsal surface of the animal. In some populations, they can form a pair of irregular stripes from the eyes down the back, joining on the tail. The degree of blotching is variable, with some animals being nearly solid black and some being nearly solid yellow. Many subspecies exist, but they are difficult for the hobbyist to tell apart. *Salamandra s. salamandra *and *S.*_ *s*_*. terrestris*are the two most often seen in the hobby. *Salamandra s. terrestris*tends to have the yellow blotches fused into a pair of stripes. 
*Range: *Fire Salamanders have a scattered and discontinuous range over large areas of Europe, northern Africa, and western Asia. Most in the hobby seem to come from Germany, but other countries within their range export them and several subspecies are bred by European hobbyists. 
*Habits: *Like most salamanders, Fire Sallies are nocturnal and rarely venture out on cloudy or rainy days. They actively hunt invertebrates and small vertebrates on the forest floor. Fires will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouths. They have an excellent sense of smell and will consume carrion. During the day, they live in shallow burrows tunneled into the moist humus or under stones, logs, or other debris. While most Fire Salamanders are primarily terrestrial, two subspecies are semi-aquatic. Fire Salamanders give birth to from 20 to 75 live babies over the course of several days. In most cases the larva are aquatic for two to four months, but some populations give birth to fully terrestrial neonates. This species hibernates underground during the winter and during hot and dry spells. 
*Diet: *In captivity, Fire Salamanders fare well on foods typically fed to frogs and other insectivorous herps They take the commonly available crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and roaches. Additionally, they will eat small pinky mice and fish (although the terrestrial forms will not enter the water to get them). Fires seem to have a preference for earthworms and snails. Most other invertebrates will be accepted, and these salamanders also will eat amphibians, reptiles, and birds. 
All feeder insects must be fed a highly nutritious diet before being fed to the salamander. Dusting the feeders with a vitamin/mineral/calcium supplement two or three times monthly is a good idea. These salamanders have a low metabolism. To prevent them from becoming obese, feed Fire Salamanders twice weekly and monitor their weight. Some will need more food than this to maintain weight, while others will get fat with this much food. 
*Temperature/Humidity: *The biggest problem Fire Salamanders present to the keeper is how to prevent them from overheating. These animals are not at all heat-tolerant, preferring temperatures in 60 to 65F range. Temperatures much above 75F should be avoided. The heat tolerance of Fire Salamanders varies, probably depending on the locality of origin. When keeping these newts, be aware of the signs of heat stress: frantic pacing of the cage, frequent attempts to climb the walls, and/or never leaving the water bowl. If your Fire Salamander exhibits any of these behaviors, you must cool it off During the summer, air conditioning will be necessary, unless you choose to hibernate them in summer instead of winter. Hibernating Fire Salamanders will also prepare them for breeding. 
Hibernating Fire Salamanders is not difficult. Only animals in good health and weight should be hibernated. Before hibernation, withhold food for 10 to 14 days. After this, cool your sallies down slowly to a low of 40 to 45F, taking several days to reach these temperatures. Keepers generally use a small refrigerator for this purpose. During hibernation. the substrate should be several inches of damp sphagnum moss. The hibernation period can last as long as four months; afterward slowly warm them back up to normal keeping temperatures. Fire Salamanders prefer a humid vivarium. 
*Housing: *Fire Salamanders do not demand a lot of space. A pair or even a trio can live comfortably in a 15-gallon aquarium (although there are reports of territorial behavior). A secure lid is essential, as they can climb up the corners of an aquarium. 
A deep substrate that holds moisture and allows burrowing is necessary. Many types are satisfactory including pulped wood, reptile barks, potting soil (normally mixed with sand), and sphagnum moss. For ease of cleaning, several layers of damp paper towels can be used. The substrate should be kept damp but not soggy. Include some hiding areas such as cork bark, coconut shells, or pieces of plant pots. There should be at least one hiding place for each animal in the enclosure. 
Fire Salamanders will soak frequently, but they are poor swimmers. Use a shallow water bowl that the animals can climb in and out of easily. Frequent water changing is recommended, as is using dechlorinated water. 
*Temperament: *Fire Salamanders generally are docile and do not seem to mind occasional handling. 

*Other Notes: *If you prove to be sensitive to the secretions of your Fire Salamanders, wearing latex gloves will prevent any rashes or other reactions. It is essential to wash your hands after handling these animals or their cage fixtures, as rubbing the eyes or mouth will cause irritation. Young children should not be allowed to handle Fire Salamanders. *Pet* *Suitability:*Moderate the strict temperature requirements and irritating skin secretions prevent Fire Salamanders from being recommendable to all herp keepers.​


----------



## andyfraser666 (Jan 4, 2007)

Hi,

I googled the latin name you gave and came up with the attached, hope it helps. 

If nothing else it looks like a good read 

Newts and Salamanders - Google Book Search


----------



## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

fire salamander care - Google Search


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

thanks for the care sheets, i have got a book on them which i have read . i am just a bit worried about the tempreture sitting at 20 degree. although she is not showing any distress. can i buy any kind of fan to cool it a bit, also i have noticed small flys in the tank, i have been told by the pet shop to only clean her every six weeks. ummm now im not so sure.. 

will it harm her if i clean her out


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

hiya, thanks for that, that is from the book i have got about her, she is the one on the fifth page. i just not sure whether i should clean her out, if i was to clean her out before six weeks were up would it harm her, i am just concerned about the little fly things..

i must sound so dum, i just want to make sure i look after her properly.


----------



## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

something is foul in there..,. you have knats flying around... needs cleaned.


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

its only been two weeks since we got her, will it harm her to clean her out so early,

also do you have any ideas for keeping her cool.
thanks for you advise im finding it really helpfull.


----------



## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

sarahlove said:


> its only been two weeks since we got her, will it harm her to clean her out so early,
> 
> also do you have any ideas for keeping her cool.
> thanks for you advise im finding it really helpfull.


 clean good... bad mold/fungus/bacteria/nasties..... bad...:crazy::lol2:


----------



## andyfraser666 (Jan 4, 2007)

I agree with Habu, if there flies, it needs cleaning. Have you got a heat mat on the go? if not how are you lighting the viv?

I have fire bellies (different I know) but I don't use any heating except the light tube and the ambient temp of the house.


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

no, i dont have any heating mats or lighting, she doesnt need heating as she needs to be kept cool, or so the reptil shop told me, i will give her a clean out. 

is there any type of fan i can get for kepping her cool.


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

habu, is it something i am doing wrong why the flys have appeared?


----------



## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

sarahlove said:


> habu, is it something i am doing wrong why the flys have appeared?


 there is something putting out fumes that are attracting them to congregate... it could be old food or anything that is decomposing... they may want to eat it or just lay eggs.. something is sour... they are drawn to it...


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

am i suppose to be using a light then?? i just use the temp of the house, and they it is quiet dark in there but not pitch black we can still see her.


----------



## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

sarahlove said:


> am i suppose to be using a light then?? i just use the temp of the house, and they it is quiet dark in there but not pitch black we can still see her.


 
very muted light during to day is fine... cool, damp,clean and subdued is the salamanders world...


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

ok, thanks. so it seems like i am keeping her right, have you got any ideas on how to keep her cool, the thermometer is sitting on 20 degree most of the time and sometime 19. is there a small fan i can buy/?


----------



## HABU (Mar 21, 2007)

i kept all of my salamanders in tupperware-type containers on damp paper towels and in a fridge... they loved it...


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

i got my girl in a glass tank on top of my unit. she seems to like it in there, she is alway sat there with her head poking out of the little cave i got her, the bottom of the tank has got damp moss in it, and also she has a water bowl in corner, she seems happy enough. i might just buy a small battery operated fan keep her a bit cooler. thanks for you advice.


----------



## ashrob (Jul 27, 2007)

Never kept salamanders but.... link to fan you can buy =]
Livefood UK Ltd.


----------



## sarahlove (Feb 29, 2008)

i finally picked up my two male salamanders today, they are lovely, they seem to be exploring alot, one likes to just lay in the water, although i have noticed one of them doesnt have a full buldging eye? hee seems happy enough, they are walking around alot. i just though salamander only come out at night, akthough my tank is in a fairly shaded dark area, ummm


----------



## Berber King (Dec 29, 2007)

I wouldnt keep two male fire salamanders together as they can do a fair bit of damage to each other.Ive found eco-earth to be a good substrate for them,just having moss can get dirty quite easily and build up toxins.They do like it cool,but 70 should be ok so long as it doesnt go much over that in the summer.If you have a garden build them an enclosure outside-they will love it.


----------

