# Leopard gecko tank temperature



## HotReptile (Jun 5, 2011)

I just got 2 new leopard geckos yesterday and there not eating I was wondering if the temperature was incorrect, it's 80 degrees f in the day and 75 degrees f in the night, can you tell me what temperature you have?¿


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## AliMak (Sep 20, 2010)

did you do any research/learning before buying them?

you should have a gradient, 32-24oC / 90-75oF


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

Congrats on the new Leos!

You need to measure the floor temperature - NOT the air temperature (so the thermometer needs to be on the floor). You should have 89-93F at the warm side and room temperature is usually fine at the cool side. This is vital - they will not eat if the temp is too low.How are you heating their viv? Do you have a thermostat to regulate the temperature?

You may also find that, even once you have got the temps right, that they might not eat for a few days do to the stress of moving home.

If you have bought 2 babies / youngsters then please bear in mind that there is a high chance that they may have to be separated soon. It is only possible to keep 2 females together - and then they will not always tolerate each other. Leos are best kept on their own.


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## UrolithicTitan (Sep 12, 2010)

In your viv you should have a hot end and a cool end. The hot end temperature should be 32°C (90°F) and the cool end temp should be 21°C (71°F). The hot end can be heatedusing a heat mat covering a third to half the floor space of the viv at one end, this wil be your hot end. The heat mat should be hooked up to a thermostat, either a mat stat, pulse stat or a dimming stat. I would personaly go for a pulse or a dimming thermostat as these tend to be more accurate than the mat stats. A thermostat is the most important piece of equipment alongside the heat source when it comes to heating your Leo's viv. Without a thermostat the hat will overheat and will burn your Leo. It is also important that you check your hot end tep using a reliable digital thermoster perferbly with a probe and a min/max temperature option so that you can see if there have been any large temperature fluxuations. You should place the probe on the substrate of the viv because leo's absorb heat through their undersides. Avoid using the plastic dial thermosters as these aren't accurate at all.

EDIT: I need to learn how to type faster. :bash:


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

UrolithicTitan said:


> In your viv you should have a hot end and a cool end. The hot end temperature should be 32°C (90°F) and the cool end temp should be 21°C (71°F). The hot end can be heatedusing a heat mat covering a third to half the floor space of the viv at one end, this wil be your hot end. The heat mat should be hooked up to a thermostat, either a mat stat, pulse stat or a *dimming stat. I would personaly go for a pulse or a dimming thermostat *as these tend to be more accurate than the mat stats. A thermostat is the most important piece of equipment alongside the heat source when it comes to heating your Leo's viv. Without a thermostat the hat will overheat and will burn your Leo. It is also important that you check your hot end tep using a reliable digital thermoster perferbly with a probe and a min/max temperature option so that you can see if there have been any large temperature fluxuations. You should place the probe on the substrate of the viv because leo's absorb heat through their undersides. Avoid using the plastic dial thermosters as these aren't accurate at all.
> 
> EDIT: I need to learn how to type faster. :bash:


UrolithicTitan is absolutely right in saying that a thermostat is vital. However a DIMMING thermostat usually has a minimum loading (usually about 40W). As the average heatmat for a Leo has about 12-15W they are not suitable for use with a mat. 

So - depending on how you are heating the enclosure - 

Heatmat - mat stat (cheap and ok) or pulse stat (more expensive but more accurate)

Bulb - dimming stat.

If you are using a mat to heat the geckos then you can leave the temps the same day and night.

Hope this helps


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## UrolithicTitan (Sep 12, 2010)

jools said:


> UrolithicTitan is absolutely right in saying that a thermostat is vital. However a DIMMING thermostat usually has a minimum loading (usually about 40W). As the average heatmat for a Leo has about 12-15W they are not suitable for use with a mat.
> 
> So - depending on how you are heating the enclosure -
> 
> ...


he microclimate dimming stat have a minimum load of 5W.
But the habbistat dimming themrostats do have a minimum load of 40W. : victory:


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

UrolithicTitan said:


> *he microclimate dimming stat have a minimum load of 5W.*
> But the habbistat dimming themrostats do have a minimum load of 40W. : victory:


That is useful to know - ta :2thumb:


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## UrolithicTitan (Sep 12, 2010)

jools said:


> That is useful to know - ta :2thumb:


No problem. : victory:


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## HotReptile (Jun 5, 2011)

I have done a lot of reaserch but every different book and website has different information . Thnx for the help :2thumb: :war: :lol:


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

HotReptile said:


> I have done a lot of reaserch but *every different book and website has different information* . Thnx for the help :2thumb: :war: :lol:


This is very true unfortunately - makes it very difficult for new keepers. However I don't know of one that recommends as low as 80F.


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## UrolithicTitan (Sep 12, 2010)

jools said:


> This is very true unfortunately - makes it very difficult for new keepers. However I don't know of one that recommends as low as 80F.


I read a care sheet once that said to keep Leo's on a substrate of Cco fibre and at a 70% humidity. :gasp:
uat goes to show how varied care on websites and in books can be. :whip:
Hwever if you come on ere and ask every responsible Leo keeper will tell you a 32°C hot end and a 21°C cool end. Some of us may have a disagreements on substrate but those temps are pretty much set in stone. : victory:


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## AliMak (Sep 20, 2010)

UrolithicTitan said:


> I read a care sheet once that said to keep Leo's on a substrate of Cco fibre and at a 70% humidity. :gasp:
> uat goes to show how varied care on websites and in books can be. :whip:
> Hwever if you come on ere and ask every responsible Leo keeper will tell you a 32°C hot end and a 21°C cool end. Some of us may have a disagreements on substrate but those temps are pretty much set in stone. : victory:


lol, you wont get reliable information until you learn from experienced keepers. i rep shop near me claims Leos and Beardies can be kept under the same conditions :banghead:

i dont usually fuss over the cold end much. i see that as long as you've got a good controlled hot end to the viv, the cold end takes care of it self. just keeping tabs in winter to make sure my room temp doesnt get below the 20s. (thats only leos mind!)


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## HotReptile (Jun 5, 2011)

Is it ok to keep young male and female leo's together ?¿


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

No - not once the male reaches puberty - roughly 4-6 months. If they breed too young there are several things that can happen - egg binding, stunted growth in the female, female being too stressed to eat etc. It is not even a good idea for an adult male and female to be housed in the same viv. Your only chance of co-housing is with 2 females, and even they may fight or bully.


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