# Recommendations on stat setup



## Anthropolyte (May 20, 2015)

Hi all - I have had a search through but can't find exactly what I'm after, so here we go...

I have a Merauke Blue-Tongue Skink who currently lives in a 4x2x2 viv. I'd like to revisit her lighting and heating setup to ensure that she's getting the optimal setup.

She needs a day/night cycle:
- Day temp at the cool end around 24C
- Basking spot at around 35-38C
- Night temps going no lower than 18C 

I currently have a ceramic heat emitter, a fluorescent UVB bulb and a spot lamp, with a large slate at the basking spot.

My query is really around how to set up the thermostat. I'd like to make sure the following happens:

- During the day, CHE, spot and UV should be on, maintaining basking temps at 35-38C
- During the night, spot and UV go off, leaving CHE to maintain temps at 18C

I'll be putting a couple of digital thermometers in to regularly check the temps at each end of the viv.

The Microclimate Evo or Prime seem to be the best options for this setup, but I'm trying to get my head around where to place the sensor (at the basking spot or in the middle of the viv?), and also how to set it up so that the bulbs go off overnight. It looks like either of these stats should be able to do that, but I'd like some advice on exactly how.

Can someone advise please? Thanks!


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## sharpstrain (May 24, 2008)

For my bts I use a habistat digital dimmer with night drop and timer. I place the probe as close to the basking spot as possible. It works brilliantly - I have a t5 uvb bulb which overs about half the length of the viv and use a 75 watt halogen bulb for the heat bulb

The stat can maintain the basking temp and then lower it at the time you set by the amount you set. It can also turn the lights on and off at the times you set.


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## Anthropolyte (May 20, 2015)

Great, thanks for that. So do you not bother with a ceramic at all? How do you get the day / night cycle if the halogen is the only heat source?


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## sharpstrain (May 24, 2008)

The uvb bulb and halogen provide light during the day - my night time temperature is set to 21 degrees and basically never comes on and if it does it is so dim that it is hardly noticeable


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## Anthropolyte (May 20, 2015)

Ok, cool. 

I'm thinking it actually might make sense to just use the ceramic and a high output uvb tube, and skip the spot entirely... It'll still create a basking spot, and she'll get enough light too. Should make things a lot simpler. 

Out of interest, are people still using orchid bark for substrate?


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## sharpstrain (May 24, 2008)

I prefer spot bulbs because they focus their energy better, but each to their own. My bts is an irian jaya so needs a bit more humidity than the Aussies. I use a bioactive substrate


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## sharpstrain (May 24, 2008)

This is mine


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## Anthropolyte (May 20, 2015)

Very nice!

Regarding the bioactive substrate, what blend/mixture are you using at the moment?


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## greendale9061 (Aug 26, 2009)

Hello,


I have 2 different systems I use for my BTS/PTS


System 1 - Housing Indos & Northerns 
4 x 2.5 x 2.5 vivs

I use Arcadia 50w Halogen lamp with dome reflector & guard plugged into a Habistat Dimmer. In the hot end I also have my Arcadia T5 UV 24w 65 + D3 lamps wih reflectors.

This give the hot end a basking temp of around 34 degrees, cool dark end around 26 degrees.


System 2 - Housing PTS & Tannies
4 x 2 x 3 vivs

Due to the height and size of this viv, it takes alot to heat.

I have a Arcadia D3 UV 80w basking light in a Exo terra glow light, with no stat, as they are mercury vapour bulbs so will blow of a stat is added.


I can still keep a good temp gauge & gradient without a stat.

These bulbs seem to last longer too than using halogen, but they are 3 times more expensive to buy.


The whole reptile room is on a timmed circuit board, so heat & light run from 8am until 9pm, then everything shuts off. I have underfloor heating in the reptile room which kicks in at night, so my room rarely drops below 20 degrees any time of the day (unless burmnination time)



My Advice -
If using light bulbs to heat the viv - Use a Dimmer stat
If using a ceramic bulb to heat the viv - Use a Proportional Stat


In both cases use reflectors to give directional heat towards to skink.



I have also use the radiators (AHS) before which are also pretty good, but expensive to buy.


All my stats are Habistat as I find them easier to use that mircoclimate. If I had an extra £2000 I would change all my 'manual' for the new digital ones.


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## Anthropolyte (May 20, 2015)

That's incredibly useful, thank you! 

I think I will use a CHE with a reflector, since it'll last a lot longer than a halogen spot (I've had those blow on me several times before, often after only a month or so). Also it means I can make sure that the temps don't drop below 18C at night - she's in our bedroom, and we usually have the windows open, even during the winter.

Regarding UV, I'm debating whether it's worth the expense of T5 bulbs over T8s. I notice you use T5s yourself - are they necessary, or would T8s do the job? One tube or two in a 4x2x2 viv?


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## greendale9061 (Aug 26, 2009)

I used to have T8 uv bulbs, they still work the same as often a bit cheaper to buy.


When I re gigged all my vivs around 5 years ago I ask Arcadia John for advice, and I changed from normall 100w light bulbs to 50w Halogen and T8 to T5.


My overall comment - I've reduced £s on my electric bills and by vivs appear brighter and more colourful due to the change to T5. I even think the skinks appear more active. I think you can get a few more months out of a T5 before needed to change too (but please don't quote me on that, maybe John could advise better)


As for UV, I only use the UV for half the viv, since the cool end is also the dark end incase they want a snooze.


If you have a 4ft viv, I would say use a 1 x 2ft uv tube, best to chose a tube for rainforest species, or you could just use a compact, if you don't want a tube in the back of the viv. Must use a reflector either way.


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## Anthropolyte (May 20, 2015)

Excellent, thanks again


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