# heating and feed enquiry for corn



## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

few questions on issues why my corn may not be eating

had my corn since 26th april and hasnt eaten a thing for me but her feed record says she hasnt eaten since 15/4 (june 12 corn)

can a corn be funny about where they get there heat source and not eat if it isnt right?

can a bulb set up go in a starter kit thats wooden frame with glass with the dimensions of 18x6x11.5 inches (BLR Small Terranium Snake Starter Kit - Snakes - Starter Kits - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop)

what do u need for a heat bulb set up like equipment etc ?


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

You won't be able to put a heat bulb in that setup I don't think. Is your heat mat not getting to the right temps? Cos they are normally fairly easy to heat with a mat at that size.

Its therefore been about 5/6 weeks since it last ate. Have you tried the braining method? Are you defrosting fully and leaving overnight?

The snake will eat eventually when it gets mega hungry.

I don't think they're bothered WHERE they get the heat from providing they get it. Mats are fine for corns and especially in that viv where they don't come into direct contact wth the mat.

What are your temperatures in the viv like and how are you measuring/regulating them?


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

Chance said:


> You won't be able to put a heat bulb in that setup I don't think. Is your heat mat not getting to the right temps? Cos they are normally fairly easy to heat with a mat at that size.
> 
> Its therefore been about 5/6 weeks since it last ate. Have you tried the braining method? Are you defrosting fully and leaving overnight?
> 
> ...


i had someone that says he as corns and a ball python have a look at the set up and he suggested turning up the temp as the heat mat is under a glass panel and suggested the food might be to big so said to try pinkys left the pinky about 20mins to defrost as shop said that should be more then enough time and i think temps are going to about 40 celcius as when the guy looked he checked her over for any visual problems and said she could be a little cold


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

40 :gasp:

40 is too hot even for the hardy corn snake. Do you have a thermostat? A lot more damage can be done by being too hot than a little bit too cool.

Do you heat the food up a bit once its defrosted? Cos it will be cold otherwise and may be another reason the snake ignores it.

You do need to get the temp of the mat down to around 30c. Not surprised its not eating it must be boiling.


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

just turned down the thermostat whats is the minimum and maximum temps can be bearing in mind it as to go thru a glass base between the heat mat and where should i place the thermometer probe as this is under the hide on warm side 

i have dipped mouse in hot water for few seconds before offering as i dont have a hair dryer


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

The fact that it has to heat the glass is not a problem thats what the viv was designed for. Heat mats do nothing for air temperatures in the viv so the snake will actively seek out the heat of the mat by burying itself down to the level of the warmth.

The probes for both your thermostat and thermometer should be in contact with the glass panel the mat is under. Don't cover them with substrate as you can end up with a false reading.

What substrate are you using and how deep is it?


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

Also you need to set the thermostat by the reading on your digital thermometer. Thermostats' heat measuring skills can leave a lot to be desired. One of my stats is set at 28 and in the mat reaches 30 according to the thermometer. The other is set at 24 and the mat reads 30/31c so it shows how 'out' the thermostats can be.


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

Chance said:


> The fact that it has to heat the glass is not a problem thats what the viv was designed for. Heat mats do nothing for air temperatures in the viv so the snake will actively seek out the heat of the mat by burying itself down to the level of the warmth.
> 
> The probes for both your thermostat and thermometer should be in contact with the glass panel the mat is under. Don't cover them with substrate as you can end up with a false reading.
> 
> What substrate are you using and how deep is it?


the shop told me for a young corn to use kitchen towel rather then aspen


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

cafc1982 said:


> the shop told me for a young corn to use kitchen towel rather then aspen


Yeah thats fine not a problem. Just if using stuff like aspen and the layer is quite deep if you put the probes on top of the aspen as opposed to the actual mat/glass then the readings would be inaccurate.

As I said in my next post set your stat as per the reading on your thermometer and leave the temps to stabilise. 

When did you last try feeding?


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

tried offering a pinky last night

whats is absolute minimum temps can be and absolute maximum

also what methods should i use to heat the feed


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

Absolute Maximum is (as I said) more important than absolute minimum.

I would like any of mine going above 32c and I think even that is a little warm. 

Minimums I would say in the cool end at night would be 20c. Ideally the cool end needs to be about 24 ish for a comfortable life for the little un.

I said hairdryer last time but as you don't have one you can stick with the water thing.

Try next week i.e Sunday with a pink. Cut its head open (the pinky not the snake) with a stanley knife or something to expose the brains and blood and watch the snake go crazy over it. 

Once the temps are acceptable and you kick start the feeding with braining the mouse you shouldn't have any problems.


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

so would it be good to get in range of around 29-31


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

cafc1982 said:


> so would it be good to get in range of around 29-31


Yep the heat mat i.e hot end thermometer reading between 29 and 31 would be absolutely perfect. They are affected by the temps so if you get them right there should be no issues at all.


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

how do u brain a mouse like depths of cut etc


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

cafc1982 said:


> how do u brain a mouse like depths of cut etc


Cut into the head with a stanley knife or such. You'll soon notice when the brains start to ooze out. Thats when to feed.

But do wait til next week. Another week won't do any harm and itll allow the temperatures to get right.

I understand you're eager to get the snake feeding but trying too often will just stress it out. Wait another week. It sounds like a broken record but you will get there eventually. : victory:


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## Kimora (Mar 7, 2012)

cafc1982 said:


> how do u brain a mouse like depths of cut etc


Just enough to split the skull which will not be an issue with a pinkie.
Defrost then dunk in hand hot water for 10-20 secs till warm to the touch, quick dab on kitchen roll to dry a little and offer. I don't like cold food and nor do my snakes : victory:
Chance is spot on with the heating. Your temp should be between 30-31C, cool side will be room temp but any lower than 22C consistently during the day then i would wack the heating on in the house for an hour just to help it out. Night time is fine to go lower as a natural drop.
If you offered yesterday then the earliest i IMO would re offer is in 5 days time. Trying to often will only make things worse and stress him out.
Leave it overnight if he doesn't take for you as he may be nervous and perfer to eat on his own when things are quiet and he's not being stared at, chuck away in the morning if it has not gone.
: victory:


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

is it when u see a blood that its good and does it need squeezing or anything and do u brain after warming


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

Kimora said:


> Just enough to split the skull which will not be an issue with a pinkie.
> Defrost then dunk in hand hot water for 10-20 secs till warm to the touch, quick dab on kitchen roll to dry a little and offer. I don't like cold food and nor do my snakes : victory:
> Chance is spot on with the heating. Your temp should be between 30-31C, cool side will be room temp but any lower than 22C consistently during the day then i would wack the heating on in the house for an hour just to help it out. Night time is fine to go lower as a natural drop.
> If you offered yesterday then the earliest i IMO would re offer is in 5 days time. Trying to often will only make things worse and stress him out.
> ...


Of course I was spot on :Na_Na_Na_Na:

I only said to leave a week due to the number of times already tried to feed. Plus the temps will be stable and a brained pink should kick start things nicely :mf_dribble:


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

cafc1982 said:


> is it when u see a blood that its good and does it need squeezing or anything and do u brain after warming


Yeah I'd brain after warming otherwise all its tiny brains might drop out into the water and trying to squeeze them back in is hard work. :lol2:


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## Kimora (Mar 7, 2012)

cafc1982 said:


> is it when u see a blood that its good and does it need squeezing or anything and do u brain after warming


Yes, when you see blood, you can squeeze but it makes no odds and yes, after warming up...splitting a frozen skull is just a nightmare and i don't like brain matter defrosting everywhere...:whistling2: : victory:


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

Just beeen thinking about my corn when i got her she was living in a smallish tub with just 1 hide and a waterbowl would going back to that kind of set up in her tank soo she getting the heat and that work if she refuses to feed again


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

It depends on how she is reacting to her current enclosure and whether she feels safe in it. 

If putting her back in a RUB she still needs a warm and a cool hide though really.

When are you planning to try and feed?


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

shes due to feed tomorrow 

also i was advised to put in a empty toilet roll but i didnt have one so i made a tunnel out of a cling film box and she spends all her time in there now never her hides and sometimes she just lays in the open

would u think maybe packing out the terrarium with more foilage as they guy that looked at her for me said when they dont feed u take em down to a real basic setup of just hides water dish


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

this is how the guy said i should have it set out while she not eating i thought about posting this as i borrowed a camera so if she yet again refuses to eat and sends me into further worry i could possibly get some help of what i can do about her setup cause i am really getting worried she hasnt eaten since 15/4


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## Chance (Jun 14, 2008)

Get plenty of foliage in there to help her hide. Any fake/plastic plants will be fine just so she has somewhere to hide other than the hides she's already got.

I have up on expensive hides as my little ones always prefer a toilet roll tube for some odd reason.

Personally I wouldn't try and get her to strike for food tomorrow. Just plop it in and leave her alone overnight. Make sure it is close enough so she can smell it and if your temps are balanced out then there should be no reason why she wouldn't eat. Obviously if she shows interest then hang on to it for a sec and see if she will strike.

If you do wanna set it up like that again then swap the hide on the right of the picture with the water bowl so it isn't sitting on the mat at all and so the entrances of the two hides are facing each other. I always do that and they seem to like to shoot straight across from one to the other. (unless its Piper and she will have her bum in one and her head in the other!).


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## cafc1982 (Apr 13, 2013)

she always in the box or the open these days and is it normal they always look dead lol e.g not moving at all


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## Hannah81 (Nov 19, 2008)

Chance said:


> Do you heat the food up a bit once its defrosted? Cos it will be cold otherwise.


This isn't necessary, corn snakes don't have heat pits and cannot see heat so won't know and usually don't care if the food is warm or cold.

It might make it smell a bit better I suppose.

Leave it alone for at least 5 days. Then just drop a small brained pinkie in and cover the viv up. Leave it over night.

Some plastic leaves/vines would be good to hide in and climb, they're quite the explorers and very good climbers, it's also good exercise for them.


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## smart bunny (Sep 8, 2012)

Hi, I was just looking at your setup - I could be wrong, but it looks like you are using the sticky-backed velcro which comes with the thermometer to hold the wire in place... if so please get it out of the viv straight away. Nothing sticky should ever be put in a viv (including tape of any kind) as the snake could do itself injury and get extremely stressed if it got stuck on it. 

Corns are individuals and you will get some who are quite happy to eat cold mice, whereas others won't eat unless it is warmed up - either by using a hairdryer or dunking in hand-hot water for a few minutes, so it's trial and error on your part to find out how your snake likes things 

Also, I would agree with putting a bit more coverage in the viv. Sometimes if a snake feels safe in 1 hide it may stay there even if it's not the right temperature. I always try to make sure there is a covered way for my snakes to get from one hide to another, either using foliage or a toilet/kitchen roll tube - just moving that box so it roughly links the 2 hides would be fine.

Congrats on your new addition, I'm sure it won't be your last :lol2:


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