# breeding blue beautys



## antantone (Sep 6, 2008)

hi i'm new to the forum but i've been looking for info on breeding blue beautys and i can't find any thing on them! can any one out there help??

anthony:whip:


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## fuzzielady (May 19, 2008)

*Re: Vietnamese Blue Beauty* 

Vietnamese blue beauties (_Elaphe taeniura ssp.) _are one of the largest colubrids out there – they are a long and slender snake that can grow up to 5’ long in their first year, and adult size is generally around 6-8’. They make great display snakes, and tend to be active both during the day, and night. As a point of interest, the name "Vietnamese" blue beauty is actually a bit of a misnomer, as these snakes actually originate in Thailand! 
It’s not hard to see why these snakes are called "beauty" snakes, and they make a great snake for someone who is interested in having a large snake that isn’t a boid, and can appreciate the beauty of this species of ratsnake.
*Housing*
Vietnamese blue beauties can be kept similarly to other colubrids, with a few differences. They prefer temperatures slightly cooler than most colubrids, and can often be kept with no supplemental heating during the warmer months, with heat only needed to be provided during the fall/winter. A temperature range of 72-80 is recommended. They also prefer a slightly higher humidity than most colubrids.
Due to the fact that these are a large and active snake, they require fairly large accommodations. Babies and sub-adults may be kept in suitably sized rubbermaids, or a 33 gallon tank with a secure locking lid. However, adults grow too large to be housed in rubbermaids, and will require either a custom built enclosure, or large glass tank. If a custom enclosure is being used, a size of 6’ x 2’ x 2’ is recommended, or for a glass tank, a size of 66-100+ gallons. VBBs are active snakes, and will utilize branches for climbing if they are provided. For substrate, paper towel or newspaper is recommended for babies, and for adults this can continue to be used, or you may switch to aspen shavings for something with a more natural look. A large water bowl should be provided – make sure it is something easy to access and clean, as these snakes have a habit of defecating in their water. Several hiding spots should also be provided, as these snakes are quite secretive, and like to hide. Always make sure to provide at least 2 hides for your snake, with one at the warm end, and one at the cool end.
*Feeding*
These snakes are generally very good feeders, and have voracious appetites while they’re growing. Appropriately sized prey items should be offered approximately every 4-7 days – a good rule of thumb is to offer prey just slightly larger than the girth of your snake. Due to the fact that these are long and slender snakes, it is better to offer multiple medium sized prey items than one large item. Babies are capable of taking small mouse fuzzies right out of the egg, and may be moved up in prey size as they grow. Adults may be fed either small rats (2-4), or jumbo mice (4-8). Adults have a tendency to regurgitate prey that is too large, so care should be taken to offer prey that is approximately the size of their girth, and not larger. Blue beauties are secretive feeders, and often the prey item(s) will have to be left outside their hide overnight in order for them to eat, although some will take their prey right off of tongs. Adults will quite often stop eating during the winter.
*Handling*
The temperament of blue beauties can vary – almost all are nippy as hatchlings, but some remain aggressive no matter how much handling is given, while others will calm down very well with regular and proper handling as they are growing. Many people make the mistake of not handling their VBB while it is young and nippy, and quickly end up with a large and aggressive snake on their hands – therefore, regular and careful handling of your young blue beauty is recommended, to allow you to enjoy your snake to the fullest once it becomes an adult. Hatchlings are quite fast, and will often fly out of their rubbermaids as soon as the lid is opened, so be prepared. For larger snakes, a snake hook can be useful in removing the animal from their enclosure. Once you have your snake out, allow it to move through your hands as it wishes – keep a firm grip on it so it does not get away, but do not restrain it as this will almost always cause it to strike. Given the chance, your blue beauty would prefer to flee rather than fight – however if it does choose to fight, in general it will quite often strike with a closed mouth.
*Breeding*
Blue beauties grow quite fast, and can be safely bred as early as 2 years old as long as the female is large enough (around 6’, and with a good girth). These snakes do not require brumation in order to be successfully bred, as it does not get very cold where they originate from. Once the pair has been introduced, copulation will generally be observed in mid-winter or early spring, with eggs being laid mid-late spring. Clutch sizes can range from 8-20 eggs, depending on the age and size of the female (larger, older females will produce bigger clutches). Incubation time is approximately 60 days, as with most colubrids – eggs should be incubated in the low 80’s. Females are capable of retaining sperm, and will sometimes double clutch.


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## antantone (Sep 6, 2008)

hi thanks for that its a great help thats the most i seen i breeding them!

thanks again 

anthony


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