# Red eye tree frog care sheet



## knighty (Feb 27, 2008)

INTRODUCTION
Agalycnis callidryas are a Hyliade from the genus Agalychnis. They inhabbit the rainforests of Belize, Colombia, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua and Panama. They are a nocturnal species doing there hunting and breeding at night. Agalychnis Callidryas translates into Beautiful tree nymph, which is a fitting name for this highly attractive species. 
Females are the larger of this species attaining a maximum snout to vent length of 77mm. Males are somewhat smaller attaining a maximum length of 59mm. Colouration varries slightly depending on locality but generally Agalychnis callidryas have bright green bodys which are slender and look some what flattened, with cream and blue stripes on there flanks. The under side of the body is also white with bright blue markings on the underside of the limbs. The eyes are bright red in colour with black pupils in the centre and the feet and toes are orange These colours may look stunning but are there to startle predators and give them time to escape.

HOUSING REQUIRMENTS
Agalychnis calliryas require an aboreal vivarium, 18x18x24 inches would be well suited to house an adult trio. Lots ofclimbing branches should be provided and secured in place as theis species of tree frog walk rather than hop. Pothos and mantra species are well suited plants as they provide shade and sleeping places. Natural set ups, that are well planted make an ideal home for these frogs. covering the sides of the tank with blacking out paper or coco pannels will provide them with extra security and help to reduce stress. Sphagmun moss, gravel, bark chippings and any other loose substrate should be avoided as it may cause impactions. Eco earth or coco husk make ideal substrates but should be given draiage by means of a false bottom or a deep layer of hydroleca.

LIGHTING
Although the research is on going, U.V can provide many benefits to Agalychnis callidryas. It is very beneficial in the production of D3 and will help prevent bone disfigurment in juveniles. Although Agalychnis may be nocturnal and prefer shaded areas, U.V rays reach through out the rainforest penertrating leaves giving them exposure to the rays. A 2% tube with a reflector placed over the top of the viv will provide them with substantial U.V. The light emited from the tube will also be needed to maintain the plants in the vivarium.


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## knighty (Feb 27, 2008)

TEMERATURE AND HUMIDITY
Agalychnis callidryas require high huimiditys of 70% along with good ventilation. the vivarium should be misted with dechlorinated water daily and not allowed to fully dry out. A temereature of 75 in the day with a drop to 70 degrees at night is ideal. Heat emmiting bulbs should not be used to achieve this as they will rapidly dry out the air.

FEEDING
Agalychnis callidryas will eat a large range of inverts. crickets, locusts, moths and flys are amoung there favourites. Food items should be sized accordingly, the best way to judge this is by offereing items that are equal to the distance between the specamins pupils. vitamins and calcium supplyments should be dusted onto the food, the most effective way to do this is by placing the food into a bag, adding the supplyment and gently shaking. Adults should be given a feed with calcium once per week and vitamins also once per week, Juveniles will need more frequent supplymenting. Do not supplyment calcium and vitamins at the same time, do one per feed. Food items should alos be gutloaded on fesh veg before being offered. Adult Agalychnis callidryas should be fed 2 - 3 times per week and juveniles daily. Any uneaten food should be removed from the viv as it will not only stress and bite the frogs but it will also eat the plants.

WATERING
A shallow water area should e provided as Agalychnis callidryas will use it to replenish there natural water reserve. The area or dish should be changed daily using dechlorinated water. It is vital the water level is no deeper than the frogs height at rest as they are poor swimmers and will drown easily.


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## knighty (Feb 27, 2008)

CLEANING
The vivarium should be spot cleaned daily with any feceus or dead food items being removed. any decor items that are starting to mould should be imideatly removed and steralised. at least once every 6 months the frogs should be removed and the entire viv steralised and washed out, all the plants should be wiped over and decor items scrubbed.

HANDLING
handling should be avoided unless it is vital to the specamins well fare. If you do have to handle then powder free surgical gloves must be worn and frequently misted with dechlorinated water to stop them drying out. Agalychnis callidryas do not like or get used to being handled, it is very stress full to them and if not done correctly very dangerous. not only will the salts in human skin irritate them but there is a risk of damaging a limb or tearing the skin. When cleaning the viv the safest and less stress full way for the frogs is to catch them in a tub which has been sprayed with dechlorinated water.

SEXING AGALYCNIS CALLIDRYAS
agalycnis callidryas are not sexable untill they reach a mature age. the biggest sexual difference other than size is males will call in the evenings. the snout of females is rounded were as the males is more sloped with the nostrils pointin up. the kneck of the males is quiet saggy were the vocal sack expand and in the breeding season males will develop nuptual pads.

CONCLUSION
Agaylchnis Callidryas are a priced species amoungst amphibian keepers, however they are not for the inexperienced. they are very fragile and deteriate quickly if not given the propper care. These beautiful frogs stress very easily and are only suited as a visual pet.


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## andaroo (Nov 14, 2008)

Excellent. I read all of it and I have bookmarked this for when I get my red eyes in the future. Thanks for posting!:2thumb:


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## Morgan Freeman (Jan 14, 2009)

andaroo said:


> Excellent. I read all of it and I have bookmarked this for when I get my red eyes in the future. Thanks for posting!:2thumb:


Same. Though I have my eyes on some Vietnamese blues next:devil:


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## andaroo (Nov 14, 2008)

Morgan Freeman said:


> Same. Though I have my eyes on some Vietnamese blues next:devil:


lol they suck, why would you get those over retfs?:Na_Na_Na_Na:


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## Morgan Freeman (Jan 14, 2009)

andaroo said:


> lol they suck, why would you get those over retfs?:Na_Na_Na_Na:


You suck!

I want more experience before RETF :Na_Na_Na_Na:


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## takeoffyourcolours (Apr 11, 2009)

whites are the best :2thumb:
then red eyes

whites look abit like clowns to me :lol2:


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## Frogmad (Nov 10, 2008)

andaroo said:


> Excellent. I read all of it and I have bookmarked this for when I get my red eyes in the future. Thanks for posting!:2thumb:


Agree 100% : victory:


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## LiamAndKec (Jan 23, 2009)

Wouldn't this be a great topic for the care sheets board?


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## danielle6761 (Aug 15, 2009)

Think this should be a sticky. Well done knighty well informative :notworthy:


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## knighty (Feb 27, 2008)

thanks for the comments, was my first attempt at writing a care sheet.


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## snowyj99 (Feb 28, 2008)

Spot on Really informative,

Well done!:2thumb:


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## xvickyx (Jul 21, 2009)

Great caresheet :2thumb::no1:


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## Dan6 (Apr 6, 2009)

great advice but what would you say is the best way to heat up a tank for these guys?


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

Great info, excellent. 

Hope you dont mind but wanted to add:
I find that red eyes hate substrate sticking to them and due to this get stressed very easily. Back about 16 years ago a number of us frog keeps keeping REs would use no substrate, and have live plants in pots stood in sauces or water. They would be sprayed morning and evening. After the morning spray the floor would be wiped clean then another gental respray of the enclosure. This ensured no substrate would stick to the frogs. Babies are very easy to loose in this way and substrate also dries them out. For breeding the set up would be changed. 

I know this dosent sound as exciting as having a floor covering but it did work well with minimum loss of frogs. I believe this method is still used by some of the guys and Manchester museum' behind the scenes. Froglets can also be kept on damp tissue.


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## LewisJones (Aug 13, 2010)

Dan6 said:


> great advice but what would you say is the best way to heat up a tank for these guys?


Im not an expert but i use a 50w halogen bulb, and it is true that it dries the air but mine never goes below 50% which from what im told is fine.


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

Habistat radiators can be used in the lid. 
You could use a heat mat on the rear wall. 
Bulbs if protected. 
Water heater if you have a good body of water. 
Some ideas.


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## brysaa2 (Oct 11, 2009)

andaroo said:


> lol they suck, why would you get those over retfs?:Na_Na_Na_Na:


Oi! :lol2:


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## brysaa2 (Oct 11, 2009)

Morgan Freeman said:


> Same. Though I have my eyes on some Vietnamese blues next:devil:


Get some Morg, they're great! I see them all day as they sleep similar to Milks where you can see them, and they are pretty tolerant of me. They tong feed well and generally are a pleasure to have knowing they don't stress so easily. 

I agree RETF are amazing, but part of me doesn't want the hassle and stress of all that just to catch them the odd night in the dark :lol2:


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