# Bio Active Bearded Dragon



## psychedelic (Apr 5, 2015)

Currently, I have a bearded dragon, about an year old, living in a properly heated tub (standard recommended temperatures) with the dimensions of 1x0.66x0.3 metres. I need to emphasise that it is a tub, so all four sides are blocked out. He is currently on newspaper and feeds well, primarily on vegetables. 

There are several reasons why I would like to place him in a bioactive set up. The first reason is that unlike most other bearded dragons, he defecates all over the place. Add this to the fact that he is almost constantly bored and on the move, you can expect that he has strewn his feces all over on several occasions. Additionally, there is a potential for me not to be around on a daily basis to clean him up.

If I have read accurately, a bioactive set up should greatly reduce his glass surfing behaviours and also allow some form of independent cleaning by the enclosure inhabitants. At the same time, I see the appeal of a naturalistic and attractive environment. 

There are however some issues. 

To begin with, I live in a country which has a standard humidity of about 60-70%, this is generally lowered to 40-50% with the use of the heating bulbs in the enclosure. I worry that a bioactive set up will increase the humidity unreasonably. I have seen arguments that poor humidity is only of concern with poor ventilation. What is good ventilation? 

Additionally, I have some concerns about the air temperature, which as far as I am aware, are far less important and possibly detrimental. This sits at 29-32 degrees celsius, which I try to reduce to 25 degrees celsius with the use of air conditioning at night. 

Lastly, I have some doubts on the environmental niche a bearded dragon is claimed to reside. I have seen threads that propose a more arid set-up, whilst others have had success on a semi-arid/woodland set-up for bearded dragons. What are your opinions on this matter? 

Gods, that makes for a long read. Thanks!


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## awh (Aug 20, 2008)

hi with bearded dragons you need at least a 4 foot x 2 foot x 2 foot enclosure (Vivarium) they come from very dry arid area's so need little humidity as possible a bio set up in a tub would increase the humidity to much , they just seem to pooh where ever they like even in a bio set up i doubt it would help absorb the pooh quick enough it would also make it wetter so the animal would end up covered in pooh .

yes they glass surf but mine dont do it that much maybe once a month if that


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## Fizz (Jan 18, 2014)

A bio active set up may increase the humidity a fraction but please dont let that put you off, as you said the heat bulb will bring it down and so will increasing ventilation. You probably wont need excessive ventilation either just a little you can always add more if needed. Beardies actually dont need quite as low humidity as you might be lead to believe as they live in varied areas, and 40-50% is fine.

Bio active set ups are on the rise and I think can only be beneficial to the animal. Get a sand soil mix going in there 40/60 or so and throw in some springtails and woodlice, maybe the odd earth worm. Keep an eye on the humidity and temps regularly but definitely worth a try, your beardie will love having somewhere to dig and forage. And as a bonus to you... no need to do more than a spot clean if you see a big blob of poop laying around, as the clean up crew will take care of it for you  
On the size of the enclosure 4x2x2ft is the standard recommended for a beardie but bigger is always better


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## ToothlessSav (Aug 5, 2013)

My guy's in a bioactive setup and seems to love it . He's constantly running around, digging in the dirt, hunting, etc. 
There will usually be a humidity spike for the first week or so until the parameters settle out, but it won't bother the beardie as long as temps are good. I used 6-10 inches of top soil/ play sand/ eco earth mix and covered it with leaf litter. 
For ventilation, it's best to start out with only a small amount, than increase it if needed. 
My humidity ranges from approx. 30% around the basking site, to 95% down in the burrows. Temps range from 160F on the basking surface, to 75F on the cool end (enclosure size is 5 x 3 x 2.5 ish).


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## Breadrun (Mar 1, 2007)

I dare anyone to actually research themselves about the habitat of Australia that bearded dragons live in, temps, humidity spikes, research it over a 24hour period and do that 4 times over the year every time 3 months apart........then come back and tell me they live in very dry areas.......they might bask at midday under the intense sun where there is little moisture but trust me they shouldn't be like that 24hours of the day......but anyways I'm not getting involved in a substrate debate all I'm gonna say is do it, as long as your beardie have all their requirements met then they will love a bio active setup and you will see the change for the better very soon after doing so


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## psychedelic (Apr 5, 2015)

I agree with the generic principles which is basically to provide the herps with a range of temperatures and humidity levels to choose from. This is why I ask the questions with a specification. 

I would like to repeat again, and also assume that the previous respondents have noted, that the standard humidity in my country is 60-70%, and air temperatures sit approximately at 30 degrees celsius. 

Also, I am concerned about the depth of the bioactive substrate I can provide. It is a limitation I have to deal with in the 100x66x30cm cage I have, particularly with height. It is also for reasons of limitation in selection that I have selected this size, which I would like to think would not be an issue with the stimulation a bioactive set up provides.

This is also an open top set up, is that sufficient ventilation?


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## psychedelic (Apr 5, 2015)

Perhaps this might be of interest. 

mybeardeddragons.co.uk • View topic - Your Dragon - its Habitat and Water !!!!!!!


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## jarich (Mar 23, 2012)

There are a few things to remember when discussing humidity in an enclosure. First, and perhaps most importantly, is air quality. Most people keep their reptiles in what are called "sterile" (a gross misrepresentation in my opinion) enclosures, with no substrate and mostly non porous surfaces. Now when you add a bunch of heat and high humidity to this, with limited ventilation, you will end up with what are called fungal blooms. Basically you have created near perfect conditions for what are often called first colonizers, or micro organisms that float in the air everywhere and so are the first to inhabit surfaces. Since there are no active biological systems in place within the enclosure to act as a check on these fungi, they bloom like rabbits on the open plains. In a short time, you have air that is full of the resulting spoors, and since there is again little ventilation, you now have a lizard trapped in a small box breathing in a lot of these spoors. This can lead to respiratory issues obviously, and why you often hear that high humidity is bad for dragons. 

However, you will also note, and unfortunately your friend at that other forum did not bring this up, that the relative humidity for dragons varies a great deal over their territory. Some places and times of the year it gets up to around 70%, while others it can down to lower than 20% (though usually they arent as active at those times). What this tells us is that in the wild they are able to adapt to a wide range of humidity levels. The reason this is true is that in the wild they dont get stuck in those same types of fungal blooms in enclosed spaces. The reason is of course ventilation isnt such a problem, and there are systems in place to control fungus. So if we introduce such systems into our enclosures, we find that the fungi, and higher humidity, is also not problematic. Your use of bioactive substrate will give microhabitats for the bacteria and other small inhabitants (springtails, woodlice, etc) who will help you control fungal growth, as well as hopefully plants that will continue to help clean the air. That you have an open top enclosure will allow for plenty of ventilation also. 

Basically, you will be just fine with the humidity you have, especially given the parameters you are using. The only issues I can really see are keeping your cool side cool enough and hanging your lighting without a top. Is there something above your enclosure that would be in the way of added height? If not, you can build a simple frame with a wire screen top to give you the extra height you might want. They are semi arboreal, so love to climb when given the option. This is what I did with mine...


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## psychedelic (Apr 5, 2015)

I've seen your cage and your description for it on another forum and I do think it looks great. You've seen my thread on another forum though Jarich? Which might that be? 

Given the height limit, how deep a bioactive substrate should I opt for? I realise from those with bioactive tanks that bearded dragons do love a good burrow. 

To work against the height limit, I intend to do what you did Jarich, and perhaps perch some sort of branch from the side of the tank to somewhere. Or just have a central wooden structure of good weight. This I hope will give him the added height he needs.

As I am due to be away on weekdays, due to conscription, I also intend to plant herbs into the tank. Basil, Rosemary, Thyme, Wheatgrass, and Mints are some ideas I have. Do I plant them all around or should I congregate them in an area perhaps away from the basking spot to give a humidity range? 

I also notice that in your enclosure, the bearded dragon does not exactly have a hide. Is this because he makes burrows? I would assume that a comfortable hiding spot is important.


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## psychedelic (Apr 5, 2015)

This is odd why are my some of my posts under moderation. In that case, I'll post again. 

@Jarich, where else did you see this post? I've seen your thread on some other forum that and that is in fact what first piqued my interest in bioactive set ups. It's a great set-up. 

Don't mind and do pardon me for questioning the arguments presented for pro-bioactive set ups. But I would assume here that the information is not actually anecdotal, but supported in terms of either scientific literature or medical knowledge on conditions such as RTI? 

Having been on various forums over the years, I find myself confounded by the various perspectives that people offer with conviction; and having only recently begun to doubt the worthiness of the "sterile" set up in deference to a bioactive one, I am unsure. 

If I should go ahead, I need to overcome the limitations of the tank height.

Firstly, how deep should my bioactive substrate be? I have seen your thread elsewhere Jarich, and it seems that bearded dragons do love a burrow for themselves. 

Additionally, I wish to place a central wooden structure or attach a branch of sorts to the wall the tank is adjacent to, allowing for fulfillment of semi-arboreal tendencies. 

Secondly, as I am due for conscription, I wish to ensure that my bearded dragon does not starve on the days where I am not home. For that reason, I intend to plant a mixture of dandelions, wheatgrass, basil, rosemary, thyme and mints within the tank. 

Should these be concentrated away from the basking spot to provide a distinct humidity gradient or spread out for aesthetic and for the purposes of hiding?


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## jarich (Mar 23, 2012)

Hi Psych, as a new member, your posts get moderated. It's just to insure that you aren't a spambot basically. Once you post more, the moderation goes away. 

As for my own posts, yes I'm active on a number of forums so I'm sure you might enjoy seen me around. 

Unfortunately there isn't a lot of good scientific literature on husbandry practices. Because of the nature of controlled testing, most studies are limited to sterile enclosures. However if you want to read further, more broad scientific resources do exist, such as Health and Welfare of Captive Reptiles, edited by Warwick and Frye. There is also a great starter book called The Art of Keeping Snakes by Phillipe de Vosjoli. Though geared towards snakes speciifically, the bioactive substrate sections are useful cross-genera. 

As for the depth, I'd recommend a deeper than normal soil depth, yes. Generally a minimum of four inches is recommended for any bioactive soil, but with dragons I'd say 10-12" is great. This gives good depth for burrowing, and allows you to let the top 1/2 inch to inch to dry out a bit, while still keeping the lower soil moist. It does require turning the soil at depth though, so do keep that in mind. 

As for planting, I'd say go for it, but it'll be based as much on lighting as anything else. Those are all high light requiring plants, but are also going to be damaged by high heat and UV radiation. You may need a separate light for your plants that is bright but non heat and UV producing. Personally I've found my dragon destroys most smaller plants quickly, but you may have better luck. I try to put large rocks or branches around the plants so that the dragon climbs up and over rather than trampling the plant.


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## psychedelic (Apr 5, 2015)

10"-12" of soil would leave my beardie hovering at the maximum height of the tank LOL.

Given my circumstance, I think I will have to go for 4"-6" inches in that case. I will plant the plants variably away from the main basking areas. 

I'm slightly confused about the use of supporting invertebrate. How much is needed and how will they be sustained should the bearded dragon not defecate frequently? Also I'm pretty much limited to the use of red wrigglers and I don't exactly have access to springtails or isopods unless I opt for native ones. Not sure if they're pesticide free. 

Can any of these scale plastic walls and leave the perimeters of the enclosure, otherwise causing damage to the house?


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## jarich (Mar 23, 2012)

Ah, right, well that could be a problem then.  There is no way for you to build up the height of the enclosure, I take it? In that case, you will just have to make due with what you have. Four inches will be enough to give you the biological systems you want, youll just have to be a bit more on top of it, regarding keeping it moist and the leaf litter/ground cover on it. Basically, if the soil dries out completely, you are starting from scratch again in terms of your nitrogen cycle. This also has a tendency to cause fungal problems, which can be a pain. So just make sure you take care to water the soil frequently enough. Stick your finger in the soil, it should be moist about a half inch down. If its not, you need to water it again. Itll take you a while to figure out the cycle in your own enclosure based on ventilation, room humidity, etc. After awhile you will be able to figure out a steady schedule. 

As for the invertebrate life, red wigglers should be fine, and the isopods and such from your garden will be perfect. The tropical species dont do as well in dragon enclosures as they are its a little drier and hotter in a dragon habitat than those species usually like. The ones from your garden are a little hardier that way. 

Contrary to common thought, they dont generally eat your dragon's waste directly. They will eat the mold and such that grows on the wastes, as well as on the soil, leaves, etc. Its the bacteria and microscopic life that take care of the wastes. Think of your dragons wastes as sort of chum in an ocean. The soil is the ocean where all the bacteria live, and when your dragon puts it down, all those bacteria are just waiting to go crazy. Its the reason its so important to have a healthy soil and leaf litter cover. Creating these microhabitats for the bacteria to thrive is what will insure a healthy nitrogen cycle to break down everything like it would happen in the wild. If that soil goes dry, it means it lacks moisture and oxygen, the two things that the good bacteria that breakdown wastes also need. Not to mention the invertebrates need it too!


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## psychedelic (Apr 5, 2015)

The issue is that I do live in a tropical region. Perhaps I'll stick to red wrigglers. Thanks for the information, it has been a great help. 

You mentioned in your other thread that the leaf litter acts as a dry buffer for the soil to remain moist underneath. How should the moisture of the soil be maintained? Sticking a tube down into the soil and water or do I simply mist the leaf litter? I feel the latter will defeat the purpose. 

Also how long does it take for this bacteria to be established? and How many red wrigglers would be adequate in a tank 100x66x30cm with 4"-6" inches of soil? 

Sorry for all the questions, its finer details that I think have escaped my googling.


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## psychedelic (Apr 5, 2015)

Bump? Any help for the above questions?

Thanks!


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