# Why has my male bearded dragon got lumps in his belly? help!!?



## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

HELP!! 
i have a male bearded dragon ive only had him 3 weeks the guy i had him off wasnt sure his sex!
he told me he is 7months old! 
the reptile shop i bought the viv from told me he looks to be a male!
can anyone give me advice as to why my male'' beardie has a lumpy belly hes not eating anything although he is having a poo everyday! and is digging all the time! 
when i first had him he was really quiet wasnt fussed on the bugs but loved the veg i was giving him now hes not eating at all he is drinking water though + now he is very active i would be really greatfull if some one could help


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## kelsey7692 (Jul 28, 2010)

Put up a picture of his belly, it will help a lot. Sounds a but like it's a female and about to lay eggs though??


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## Debbie1962 (Dec 5, 2008)

Any chance it could be a gravid female?

Mostly lumpy belly's are the result of females carrying eggs and can usually be felt mainly down the sides. This would also explain the constant digging.


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

i will put pics of belly and private area to see if anyone can shed some light on the sex of the beadie
thanks for the quick replys

i know it sounds stupid buthow do i put photos on here all i get is (please enter url of your image) not browse as usual


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## Mal (Jul 22, 2007)

I agree, he sounds like a she. Did the guy you bought if off have it in with another beardie ? It does sound like you could be getting eggs soon.


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

how do i upload pics on here please all i get is (please enter url of your image) not browse as usual?


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## Curahee (Nov 6, 2011)

You can tell its male or female by looking at the throat, just look it up in google:

Bearded Dragon . org - Sexing Your Bearded Dragon


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

hi it might be possible that he/she was in with another beardie im not totally sure as the guy i got him/her off went upstairs to get him/her bit silly i didnt ask to see but im new to owning and looking after beadies


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

here are the pics i could get before he/she went to sleep please help


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## Antoni (Jun 19, 2011)

Expect eggs, soon. You need to give her a lay box ASAP!


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

so its defo a she? 

thank god i thought it was a he and was really ill

ok whats the best thing to do with the lay box as in temps size what to put in it ..etc


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

so its defo a she then?

i was told it was a he.

so what do i do now? as in size of the lay box temps what to put in it ...etc

and does this explain why she is not eating her bugs and veg?


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## Antoni (Jun 19, 2011)

100% femalemand she is about to burst by the looks of it, especially if she is digging and has gone off her food. You need to get a good size box, a medium cat litter tray worksmwell and fill it with damp sand, she will make one hell of a mess, but should lay in the nice damp sand and then cover the eggs back up so look out for her magically becoming quite thing with saggy skin. Then you need to decide wether you are going to incubate the eggs


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

does the lay box need to be at the warm end or the cooler end?
and i would like to keep the eggs and incubate them but im new to this and will need some help as in Q/As and will have to do alot of research too and quick


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## Mal (Jul 22, 2007)

mikall said:


> so its defo a she then?
> 
> i was told it was a he.
> 
> ...


It certainly looks like a gravid female to me and yes it would explain why she is off her grub. We dont breed beardies but Im sure one of the beardie breeders will pop up soon and advise what the best is for egg laying medium etc.

I would suggest that you contact the person who sold her to you to get a bit more information on how she was housed, who she was with, health history, supplements etc. I guess I have a suspicious nature and wouldnt buy a rep from someones house without seeing the setup. The question is, was she fit to breed ? If she does lay are you likely to want to incubate the eggs ? If you do incubate, do you have the finances, the equipment, facilities and time to deal with hatchlings etc. The other consideration, and another reason to speak to the previous owner, is who is responsable if she has difficulty laying eggs. It doesnt happen often but reptiles can and sometimes do get egg bound. To get emergency veterinary help including surgery if needed can cost several hundred pounds. ( A leo breeder paid £300 for an egg bound females surgery earlier this year.) Are you prepared to pay that in the unlikely event its needed ? If all goes well it isnt a problem but if things go wrong you have inhereted someone elses problem. 

It may simply be a case of letting her lay the eggs and throwing them away. Then you can focus on keeping her well and enjoying a fantastic pet reptile. Good luck with things and I hope all works out without any problems.


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

thank you for all the help. in all honestly i only wanted 1 bearded dragon i had no intention of breading i have learned a lesson on buying 1 with no history. we have allready grown to love her and will fit any bill needed! we have a vet appointment tomorrow just been so worried thats why im in this forum!
so this lay box does size matter and where abouts should this be kept in the viv?
thanx again


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## hatchet harry (Mar 6, 2011)

keep the lay damp, around 6 - inches deep and give her a way in and out.

If you dont want to keep the eggs, before chucking them away put them in the freezer for 24 hours.

Some landfills can be warm and some may hatch.

Keep an eye on her. 

Also dont press her stomach to hard as you dont want to crack an egg inside her...

good luck.


:2thumb:


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

she is still sleeping at the mo im up keeping an eye on her but now i know a little more about her thanks to helpful people here and a bit of research she has a lay box ready for when she wakes that is in her favourite spot for digging, it is deep and damp enough i just hope she lays soon ill see what the herp says then hopefully she can get on with it.

i know all beardies are different but just one last question now the lay box is there how long averagely will it take for her to jump in and get goin?

thank you all for your help it does not go unnoticed


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## hatchet harry (Mar 6, 2011)

when shes ready.

she could jump straight in it.

also, personally i would leave it a couple of hours before removing them

and give her a nice warm soak. 


ohh yeah - be prepared for the mess. they arnt discreet lol.


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## scotty667 (Oct 14, 2011)

My dad's bearded dragon before he gave it to me alway's used to lay her egg's underneath the heat light in the corner.


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## Reptor (May 2, 2011)

yes its def female, no bumps at the base of the tail and those lumps in the belly are def egg shape, you need to get her a laying box made roughly 8-12" deep of soil and vermiculite mix, this should be moist so holds together if squeezed but not to damp so no water runs outwhen squeezed. then with the eggs if you dont have an incubator set up or cant get one then take the box to your local rep shop and give to them you never know they may give ya abit of money (doubtful as market over crowded). good luck


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## Mal (Jul 22, 2007)

Reptor said:


> yes its def female, no bumps at the base of the tail and those lumps in the belly are def egg shape, you need to get her a laying box made roughly 8-12" deep of soil and vermiculite mix, this should be moist so holds together if squeezed but not to damp so no water runs outwhen squeezed. then with the eggs if you dont have an incubator set up or cant get one then take the box to your local rep shop and give to them you never know they may give ya abit of money (doubtful as market over crowded). good luck


Unfortunately the dragon was gravid when the OP purchased her. From the sound of it, the conditions it was kept in pre sale sound a little suspicious. There is nothing to say the dragon has receieved adequate suppliment, UV or diet in her previous home. She may not be in the best condition for egg production.This could mean there is an increased risk of hatchling problems if the eggs are incubated. Personally I wouldnt even take the eggs to a rep shop, sad as it sounds, freeze and dump.


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## Mark1322 (Apr 28, 2011)

Looks female to me.


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

Mal said:


> Unfortunately the dragon was gravid when the OP purchased her. From the sound of it, the conditions it was kept in pre sale sound a little suspicious. There is nothing to say the dragon has receieved adequate suppliment, UV or diet in her previous home. She may not be in the best condition for egg production.This could mean there is an increased risk of hatchling problems if the eggs are incubated. Personally I wouldnt even take the eggs to a rep shop, sad as it sounds, freeze and dump.


I agree with Mal (as always :lol2. It sounds as if the person you bought her off has no idea about beardies and so may not have been providing the correct supplements and UV. This would increase the risk of any babies (that is assuming the eggs are fertile - they may not be - you need to find out if she was kept with a male) having metabolic bone disease (MBD) and possible deformities.

If you decided to incubate them all then you would probably need about 4 to 5 extra vivs with full UV and heat - about £1,000 worth of kit. Plus, on an average clutch of 20 eggs, you could be getting through about 400 crickets per day. You then have the problem of finding new homes - very difficult in this flooded market. My advice would be to freeze and bin the eggs - this is not cruel.

However, if you did want the thrill of breeding (and I quite understand if you did) then I suggest you choose the best looking 4 or 5 eggs and just incubate these and freeze the rest.

The seller needs to be informed now what he/she has sold you and you need to let them know that if there are any problems they will be liable.


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## Debbie1962 (Dec 5, 2008)

I would be concerned for the little one if she is only 7 months old, it's far too young to be gravid as she hasn't fully developed herself. She will need extra after care once the eggs have been laid, lots of water and calcium on her food. She should eat straight away providing there are no problems with her laying the eggs.

As said, if your not sure about incubating the eggs then you don't have to. They can be disposed of by freezing or by pricking them with a knife or scissors but that can be a bit messy.

I have to agree with what has been said about the cost of raising baby beardies too, that and the fact that there are too many on the market already does not help.


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

hi proud to say that she has successfully laid 15 eggs this morning! she has allready eaten and had a drink  thanx guys for all the help! can i re assure you that she is well looked after with me + i have no intension of breeding her as i know she is too young! 
a few of the eggs are looking yellowish from what ive been told i know thats a bad thing!

she seems alot happier now which makes me happy 

thanx again guys


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## Mal (Jul 22, 2007)

Great news, now you can set about the important thing, enjoying your new beardie. Well done for coming on here and asking about her. If she hadnt got an approriate place to lay her eggs she may well have had problems.

Given the questionable background for the dragon it may be worth getting her checked by a vet at some point in the next week or two. It may also be worth getting a poop sample checked. That would cost around £25 if you contact Pinmore Animal Laboratory Service for a kit. If she does have any underlying health problems or parasite loading its better to get them sorted before they become established. It could save you a lot of money and heartache in the long run.

Good luck with her, I hope she brings you many many years of joy.


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## jools (Apr 4, 2009)

That's good to hear. I am sure she will make a lovely pet for you!


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## scotty667 (Oct 14, 2011)

That's good new's and at least she never had problem's laying.

I look at the picture's again and to me she look's abit older than 7 month's but you honestly wouldn't know you can only go by what the seller told you.


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## nicnet (Apr 3, 2011)

Great to hear she dropped those eggs. I'd leave her the lay box in for another couple of days though just in case she's not done.

As said by others, I'd get her checked over by a vet just to be on the safe side. Due to her age (if thats her right age) I would probably ask for an xray to make sure she's dropped all those eggs.

Again to be on the safe side, you might want to double check your entire setup with the guys on here also. Seems that whoever you got that beardie off has no clue what they are doing and if they have been advising you then there is a chance your setup may need adjusting.

More details we have the better.

Temps x4. hot, cold, basking and night.
What uv are you using.
What supliments / food / veg.
Viv size
Are you using a dimmer stat?
Wattage of the basking bulb.

Pics would help if you can.

ps. Easy way to do pics on here is to upload them to your picture album and post the BB code from there into your forum post. Click on 'private messages' in the top right of any page and it will take you to your settings page. just a bit down on the left side is 'my album'. Upload to there.


Bravo to you also for seeking help asap when you thought there was a problem, as it turned out you needed help faster than you might have realised.

Stick around, the guys on here are always around at weird times of the day/night and always willing to help.


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## Debbie1962 (Dec 5, 2008)

> can i re assure you that she is well looked after with me


I think we knew that hun otherwise you wouldn't have been here asking for advice.

I'm pleased she seems to have laid without problems, hopefully she has got rid of them all. If she starts to become listless and stops eating again then she may have some eggs stuck and she will need vet treatment immediately.

Good luck with her, she looks like a lovely little lady.


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

i will be getting her(leona) checked by a vet as soon as she has had a rest and will look into getting a poop sample sorted for testing.
leona was 7 months i was told when we had her 3 weeks ago.
i took no advise off the seller regarding the setup all my advise come from a reptile centre where we bought the viv from brand new.
temps = 
hot end (basking area)105f-110f, 
cooler end 80f-85f, 
night (the hole viv) = 70f-75f 

viv = 4ft

basking bulb = had 100watt but changed to 60watt due to temp goin over 120f

uv bulb = reptiglo 26watt uvb 10.0compact

supliments = medium locust,broccli,kail,sprouts,cabage,apple,squash

i think thats everything?

this is the only pic i have at the moment will take some more soon.
(leona)on basking rock








the temp guage in the middle was there when we bought the viv we take no notice of that one because we have one each end now. we just didnt want to have a mark where we would have taken it off.

thanks you all for your good lucks: victory:


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## sazzle (Jun 3, 2008)

mikall said:


> i will be getting her(leona) checked by a vet as soon as she has had a rest and will look into getting a poop sample sorted for testing.
> leona was 7 months i was told when we had her 3 weeks ago.
> i took no advise off the seller regarding the setup all my advise come from a reptile centre where we bought the viv from brand new.
> temps =
> ...


only thing i can see missing is dusting the food with pure calcium powder and nutrabol - some people alternate and use calcium 5 days and nutrabol 2 days, i however, have a 50/50 mix in a pot which i use for every dusting  there are lots of ways, i don't think there are any wrong ways or right ways as long as they're both used  x


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

oh i forgot i do use calcium but didnt know i had to use the nutrabol.

what is the nutrabol for please?


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## sazzle (Jun 3, 2008)

mikall said:


> oh i forgot i do use calcium but didnt know i had to use the nutrabol.
> 
> what is the nutrabol for please?


the nutrabol contains the vitamins and also calcium which help to produce d3, you still need calcium as well due to there not being enough in the nutrabol - been a while since i did my research on this so a little rusty :lol2: x


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## Debbie1962 (Dec 5, 2008)

> what is the nutrabol for please?


Nutrobal is a multivitamin hun. I use it twice a week but no more as you can overdose them on multivits.



> basking bulb = had 100watt but changed to 60watt due to temp goin over 120f


You need a thermostat to prevent overheating.


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## sazzle (Jun 3, 2008)

Debbie1962 said:


> You need a thermostat to prevent overheating.


i didn't think of this because even with a stat mine overheated with a 100w bulb:lol2:


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## nicnet (Apr 3, 2011)

mikall said:


> i will be getting her(leona) checked by a vet as soon as she has had a rest and will look into getting a poop sample sorted for testing.
> leona was 7 months i was told when we had her 3 weeks ago.
> i took no advise off the seller regarding the setup all my advise come from a reptile centre where we bought the viv from brand new.
> temps =
> ...



Setup looks good. I'd tweek a bit though once she settles in properly.

When your due for another uv in 6 month. I'd change it to a flourescent tube rather than the compact. That way they get uv the entire lenght of the viv rather than just in one spot. You'd be suprised at the huge difference it makes in their behaviour. If you can afford to then splash out that little bit more and go for the T5 12% Arcadia uv rather than the T8 (t5 and T8 refer to fitting size, T8 is standard kitchen fitting, T5 is small fitting). Advantage in the long run is better uv for your beardie, they are cheaper to run, and the Arcadia ones last 12 month if used with the correct ballast unit (starter). Some compact uv have been known to cause a reptile version of 'arc eye' or 'welders eye' so are normally avoided if possible. They also dont give the full lenght uv that is more benificial for your beardie. With her unknown history she will need all the uv she can get to keep her healthy. 10% minimum. 12% preferable.

You didn't mention a dimmer stat, this is a vital bit of equipment to control your temps and stop your viv from over heating. (dimming thermostat from Surrey pet supplies is cheapest I've seen)

Your thermometers. Replace with digital ones, those stick on ones are notoriously bad at reading temps correctly. Can get the ones for aquariums for around £3.50 each on ebay. search for digital thermometer. They have a wire probe on them. You need 3.

Your temps.

Your confusing hot side temp with basking temp. There are 3 daytime temps in a viv. Basking 105 - 110f. Hot side +/-90f Cool side +/-80f

If your entire hot side is 105-110 then its too hot, thats the basking temp directly on the 'hotspot' under her basking light. Hot side temp is the ambient temp around that side of the viv. From your stick on thermometer I'm presuming that the entire hot side is 105+ which means her actual basking spot will be much higher.

Your night temp seems a bit high for ambient room temp, are you heating at all on a night? You don't need to unless your vivs drop below 65F for a couple day or more. Then use a heat mat on the inside, on the wall out of the way of the beardie. A lot don't heat at all but if they drop below this temp for extended periods they can brumate, which is a whole new ballgame to get to know. I'd try avoid it for this year at least until your more experienced in dealing with them.

The reptile centre your using has 'nearly' got it right lol. The one vital bit of kit you need though is missing, your dimmer stat.


Might want to get her some logs and branches to climb around on to keep her entertained. Mind love to have a mooch around to see if they can spot a stray locust or two. (locust and dubia roaches are fine to leave in overnight, crickets are to be avoided as they have been known to chew on beardies when they sleep)

In order of absolute need.
Digital thermometers
Dimmer stat
flourescent uv.



Something to read
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/lizards/698250-how-set-up-beardie-temps.html
http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html Aka 'the beardie food bible'



I'm sure I'm missing something hmmm.

(edit once again)
Remembered..

Bare in mind that beardies store sperm, so she could possible have another 2 or 3 clutches if she had been with a male. keep a diary so you know when they are due. Usually around 2 month apart. Up her calcium intake around a couple weeks before she is due.

Nutribol is a vitamin supliment. Used 2 days a week. Usually on weekends so its easier to keep track of when she's had it. You cant overdose on calcium, you can overdose on vitimins hence the weekend only.


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## Debbie1962 (Dec 5, 2008)

> i didn't think of this because even with a stat mine overheated with a 100w bulb


I guess it depends on where the probe for the stat is put. If it's placed further away from the bulb then it is possible that a bulb that wattage could get to higher than necessary.


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## Mal (Jul 22, 2007)

Excellent advice already given regarding setup etc so Im not going to rehash it. Just wanted to say for a new beardie keeper the OPs setup is well on the way to being a first class home for the beardie. It looks like the ops beardie is going to be a very lucky, loved and cared for little dragon. It makes a refreshing change to see someone going to such lengths.


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

since this photo was taken we have put in a bamboo route for 
climbing onto and theres another one on the way as we speak/type.
we now have nutrubol but the reptile centre said that they 
do get vitamin d3 from the uv bulb aswell.
ive had a look at the digital thermostats on ebay and will be 
getting some.
i will look into flourecent uv when its time to change the bulb.
if she acts strange and starts digging like mad again i shall 
put the lay box back in straight away.
thank you for your links to the threads and sites.


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

ok i have the information but im still a bit confused as to where the basking bulb is meant to be?
is there any chance you could put a photo on here so i get what you mean please?

thanks in advance


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## scotty667 (Oct 14, 2011)

mikall said:


> since this photo was taken we have put in a bamboo route for
> climbing onto and theres another one on the way as we speak/type.
> we now have nutrubol but the reptile centre said that they
> do get vitamin d3 from the uv bulb aswell.
> ...


My bearded dragon's scratch for no reason LOL especially if i put new sand in for them so i leave moutain's of it for them to scratch out and make themselv's it's so funny to watch.


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## roddymclaren (Mar 11, 2011)

Antoni said:


> Expect eggs, soon. You need to give her a lay box ASAP!


I hope u have incubator and available vivs


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## mikall (Dec 7, 2011)

roddymclaren said:


> I hope u have incubator and available vivs


 the eggs were bad sorry to say


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## nicnet (Apr 3, 2011)

mikall said:


> ok i have the information but im still a bit confused as to where the basking bulb is meant to be?
> is there any chance you could put a photo on here so i get what you mean please?
> 
> thanks in advance



Your basking bulb is about right where it is. Far side of the viv. Its your temps you need to get set up though, Only way your going to do that is with a dimmer stat.

measure the distance from the bottom of your basking bulb to the top of her basking spot. You want it approx 10 inches. Take a temp reading and you can adjust either your dimmer or the hight of her basking spot until you get a good basking temp.


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## Curahee (Nov 6, 2011)

If I was you, I would be expecting eggs!!!


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## nicnet (Apr 3, 2011)

Curahee said:


> If I was you, I would be expecting eggs!!!



lol read the whole thread dear. She's already dropped the eggs. :lol2:


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