# Reptile shed build has started!



## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

ive been building my 7 by 7 reptile shed, not very big i know but all i can really afford at the mo. i spent last weekend painting all the wood with preservative. i used two gallons of the stuff! And that was just inside. i was going to do this thread day by day and update progress each day but photo bucket wasnt working and ive ended up finishing the whole thing and it now ready for reptiles to go in. so ive got a load of photos which ill put on showing the job from start to finish.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

first i had to make a frame out of 2be2 because the patio was all sorts of shapes.
before i go any further is this thread in the wrong section?


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## Slackey (Dec 8, 2009)

Sounds good mate.... but can not see the pics:whistling2:


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## berbers (May 29, 2010)

pics havent worked mate!


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## Slackey (Dec 8, 2009)

I can see one now!


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## Phill_S (Aug 12, 2010)

I also keep mine in a shed especially for them. What did you do regards insulation and power/heating?


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Phill_S said:


> I also keep mine in a shed especially for them. What did you do regards insulation and power/heating?


im just gunna put a load of stuff up now


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

I cover the frame i built with plywood to hold in the insulation that would be going in the base of the shed.
















I used polystyrene insulation for the base of the shed which i stuck in with silicone.









This was the base completed but as you can see from the dark that was the end of that day.








next day started to build the body of the shed and felt the roof. I had a lot of work doing the roof because i got it from bandq and i had to have the display model which meant i had to dismantle it at the store and then rebuild with new felt.
















Next i will upload what i did inside as electrically, insulation, heating ect


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## the_viper (Aug 18, 2010)

Looking good so far


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

I used 50mm kingspan celotex to insulate walls, ceiling and doors. I cut grooves in the insulation for the cables.
















I put the cables in, covered every thing in exterior plywood and cut holes for the sockets, light switch and switched fused spur.








I then drilled out through the side of the house next to the mains and ran a 4mm armoured cable through the garden and into the shed and connected it into a two way consumer unit to supply 10 double sockets and lights. once all the sockets, light switch, flourescent light were fitted i went round all the joints with decoraters caulk and gave it 3 coats of white emulsion paint. Bit boring i know, if anyones got any ideas on colour let me know.









I put a double glazed unit on top of the window that was already there securing it with wooden beading for extra insulation. I then did the floor with thick underlay and oak laminate flooring.
















the last job was to wire a tubular heater to a thermostat, put a blind up for the window and draft exclude the doors. job done, wheres the snakes!


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## Avpl (Nov 13, 2007)

reptilerossy said:


> I used 50mm kingspan celotex to insulate walls, ceiling and doors. I cut grooves in the insulation for the cables.
> image
> image
> I put the cables in, covered every thing in exterior plywood and cut holes for the sockets, light switch and switched fused spur.
> ...


 
Wow, it's looking good!


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Anthony Laing said:


> Wow, it's looking good!


thanks, would look better full of snakes.


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## Avpl (Nov 13, 2007)

reptilerossy said:


> thanks, would look better full of snakes.


True! :lol2:


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

hopefully should have some habitants on the weekend. ill post some more pics.


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## nooney165 (Mar 28, 2010)

looking good so far :2thumb:

keep us updated on the snakeys moving in: victory:


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

nooney165 said:


> looking good so far :2thumb:
> 
> keep us updated on the snakeys moving in: victory:


will do nooney should be 7 in there by saturday. im sure theres room for more, the misses wont have a key so you no :lol2:


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## seanw21 (Jul 22, 2010)

well done mate, looks really good!


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## MoreliaUK (Aug 16, 2010)

Looks very good :2thumb:


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## Nix (Jan 23, 2008)

Looking awesome!

As for colour I would leave it white, helps you to spot any escapees etc (unless you keep a lot of snow/albino/leucy types!). Plus once it is covered in vivs/racks you aren't going to see the walls so why bother painting them another colour!


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Nix said:


> Looking awesome!
> 
> As for colour I would leave it white, helps you to spot any escapees etc (unless you keep a lot of snow/albino/leucy types!). Plus once it is covered in vivs/racks you aren't going to see the walls so why bother painting them another colour!


thanks for the replies guys. going to leave it white now, its a bit late now cuz all the reptiles are in there :lol2: ill get some more pics with all the vivs and rack in there.


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## BullyBully34 (Jun 23, 2010)

*cool*

looks good mate :no1::2thumb:


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## Twiglet (May 6, 2009)

looking excellent and like you've covered all bases. I really need to do one of these myself...
Very inspirational!


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## Irian adam (Aug 31, 2008)

Looks great! Congrats


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## tabbyshero (Feb 12, 2009)

I really wish I had the first idea of how to build something like this! :devil:

First class job! Lucky snakies :no1:


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## Spiff (Dec 3, 2010)

I am going to be attempting to do this myself in the next couple of months myself so this has been relay usefull! How have you insulated the doors and finished them? E.g. when you open the doors can u see the insulation?


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

thanks for all the compliments guys :blush: as for the doors i insulated them the same as the walls with 50mm celotex and boarded over with plywood. thin strips of plywood down the edges to cover the insulation. i wouldnt bother draft excluding the doors cuz its so warm in there its nice to have a bit of fresh air coming in. also i wouldnt bother with any additional heating, im not even using the tubular heater that i put in, the heat of vivs and racks is keeping it toasty. its warmer than the house. one thing i noticed is the thermostats are not on as much so it may save electric. thanks again to everyone for the interest : victory:


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## Phill_S (Aug 12, 2010)

In my rep shed I have also turned off the oil filled radiator, as ambient temps are keeping warm enough. However, after this winter we've just had that was a different story:lol2: - it was on a lot, but according to my electric bill for that 1/4 we used less this winter when I had the rep shed than the winter previous when I didn't, so it can't of been that bad...

I plasterboarded the inside of my shed and had it skimmed, so it's literally like a room in the house and the walls and ceiling stay cold to the touch even though it gets full sun all day, what's the inside of yours like with regards warmth from outside coming in?


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## geckodelta (Dec 11, 2008)

looks great, looking forward to pics when the snakes are in there :no1:


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## gef (Dec 31, 2009)

Tidy work, well done. Look forward to seeing it all set up :no1:


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## ju5t1n (Jan 10, 2010)

nice build need a bed and a tv in there i bet your going to spend a heap of time in there lol
only thing i would say i didnt catch it quick enough i have a rep shed the shed was already in my garden how ever the floor has rotted from damp and i noticed there wasnt any damp proof layer,i would recomend using a car jack jacking your shed up and putting a few concrete blocks with a bit of damp proofing on the top wood absorbs water and the wooden legs could cause you to have a damp shed


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## Jeffers3 (May 18, 2010)

Nice job, mate. I'll be starting my shed conversion next weekend - if I can do half as well as you, I'll be well pleased. I'm lucky in that I already have a shed to start from. It needs a new roof, insulating, power supply (it has a cable from a socket in the house at the moment), 

The only bit I'm concerned about is getting the power supply connected up. Any chance of putting together an "idiots guide" to doing this? If you have photos as well, that would be great. Ideally, I'd like to run a cable from the main fusebox, but I could access power from the kitchen.


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## shaunyboy (Oct 5, 2008)

very nice s reptile shed mate very proffesional looking job you did on it.

how good did the insulation work ? (i'm thinking its spot on)

the reason i ask is i'm in the proccess of pricing the costs of a breeze block snake room.

its will be basic on the outside with no fancy rough casting etc but inside will have to be spot on as its being built for my diamonds

cheers shaun


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## STReptiles (Feb 6, 2009)

One word of valuble advice....board up that window and insulate it. Its a huge windo and the shed wont hold heat. Ive been there and done it, it doesnt work no matter how well the rest of the shed is insulated it will still loose massive amounts of heat from that window, I promise you.


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## Phill_S (Aug 12, 2010)

STReptiles said:


> One word of valuble advice....board up that window and insulate it. Its a huge windo and the shed wont hold heat. Ive been there and done it, it doesnt work no matter how well the rest of the shed is insulated it will still loose massive amounts of heat from that window, I promise you.


He has a double glazed unit. I didn't board up my single paned glass and I have four small windows in mine and it does lose some heat, granted but certainly nothing major.


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## shaunyboy (Oct 5, 2008)

Jeffers3 said:


> Nice job, mate. I'll be starting my shed conversion next weekend - if I can do half as well as you, I'll be well pleased. I'm lucky in that I already have a shed to start from. It needs a new roof, insulating, power supply (it has a cable from a socket in the house at the moment),
> 
> The only bit I'm concerned about is getting the power supply connected up. Any chance of putting together an "idiots guide" to doing this? If you have photos as well, that would be great. Ideally, I'd like to run a cable from the main fusebox, but I could access power from the kitchen.
> 
> http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/foru...ld-picture130196-shed-im-going-turn-into.htmlimage



i will be running armoured cable through hard blue plastic water pipe the type the water board use 

its hardy stuff and even an axe would not chop through it so i'm thinking it will give me peace of mind re someone hitting electric with a garden spade etc mate

cheers shaun


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## Jeffers3 (May 18, 2010)

shaunyboy said:


> i will be running armoured cable through hard blue plastic water pipe the type the water board use
> 
> its hardy stuff and even an axe would not chop through it so i'm thinking it will give me peace of mind re someone hitting electric with a garden spade etc mate
> 
> cheers shaun


That bit's not the problem. I haven't been into the main fusebox, but presumably it's a case of connecting the three wires from the cable into the box, almost like wiring a plug? I'll have a look in a minute, as it's nice and bright today, so I can see what I'm doing!

I plan on taking the cable out through the wall and running it along the side of the house, running it over to the shed attached to a wire cable that is already there. I'll cover the cable with a protective cover and will probably do the same as you to take the cable across, using a plastic pipe. The difference will be that mine will be above ground not buried. As it will be protected and above ground, I don't think I'll need armoured cable, but will use this if it's needed.

Once in the shed, I'll run the cable into a consumer unit. I want to run a supply aroung the shed to several sockets. This is the other bit that I've never done before. Presumably this is straightforward, but as I've never done it, could someone let me know what's involved, please?


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Phill_S said:


> In my rep shed I have also turned off the oil filled radiator, as ambient temps are keeping warm enough. However, after this winter we've just had that was a different story:lol2: - it was on a lot, but according to my electric bill for that 1/4 we used less this winter when I had the rep shed than the winter previous when I didn't, so it can't of been that bad...
> 
> I plasterboarded the inside of my shed and had it skimmed, so it's literally like a room in the house and the walls and ceiling stay cold to the touch even though it gets full sun all day, what's the inside of yours like with regards warmth from outside coming in?


yeah i did see your thread with your build and i was really impressed with what you did. from what you have told me about winter i will keep the heater and stat in there but just keep it switched off until i need it. there is no heat coming in from outside at all. ive used celotex at work, we did a garage conversion and it was so hot in there so we used 100mm thick above the ceiling and the next day it was as cool as a cucumber, so i highly recommend it. its four times more efficient as any othere insulation.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

ju5t1n said:


> nice build need a bed and a tv in there i bet your going to spend a heap of time in there lol
> only thing i would say i didnt catch it quick enough i have a rep shed the shed was already in my garden how ever the floor has rotted from damp and i noticed there wasnt any damp proof layer,i would recomend using a car jack jacking your shed up and putting a few concrete blocks with a bit of damp proofing on the top wood absorbs water and the wooden legs could cause you to have a damp shed


i see what you mean and i might do it just to be extra safe but all the timber that i used was tanalised so it shouldnt suffer from damp but would be a shame if it did so im thinking some sort of membrane.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

STReptiles said:


> One word of valuble advice....board up that window and insulate it. Its a huge windo and the shed wont hold heat. Ive been there and done it, it doesnt work no matter how well the rest of the shed is insulated it will still loose massive amounts of heat from that window, I promise you.


i have put a double glazed unit in there, as good as a window for a house so its not loosing heat.


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## fidderz (Nov 14, 2010)

shaunyboy said:


> i will be running armoured cable through hard blue plastic water pipe the type the water board use
> 
> its hardy stuff and even an axe would not chop through it so i'm thinking it will give me peace of mind re someone hitting electric with a garden spade etc mate
> 
> cheers shaun


 hi you can use the water pipe if you want but armoured cable is armoured for a reason it has a layer of steel wires that even an axe wont cut have a go on a sample piece of your cable lol and i would suggest running it from your main fuse box as extending from the kitchen could cause problems ie you could be left with no power in your kitchen/house dependant on how many circuits your ring mains are on also the load of the shed (the power its feeding) could be a lot and cables heat up could continuously "trip" or blow the fuse so from your mains is the best way i would recommend a 10mm armoured if you think for a 8kw shower you use 10mm and a rep shed will use a lot more juice than a shower but upto you hope this helps you cheers jamie


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## fidderz (Nov 14, 2010)

Jeffers3 said:


> That bit's not the problem. I haven't been into the main fusebox, but presumably it's a case of connecting the three wires from the cable into the box, almost like wiring a plug? I'll have a look in a minute, as it's nice and bright today, so I can see what I'm doing!
> 
> I plan on taking the cable out through the wall and running it along the side of the house, running it over to the shed attached to a wire cable that is already there. I'll cover the cable with a protective cover and will probably do the same as you to take the cable across, using a plastic pipe. The difference will be that mine will be above ground not buried. As it will be protected and above ground, I don't think I'll need armoured cable, but will use this if it's needed.
> 
> Once in the shed, I'll run the cable into a consumer unit. I want to run a supply aroung the shed to several sockets. This is the other bit that I've never done before. Presumably this is straightforward, but as I've never done it, could someone let me know what's involved, please?


 definately use armoured normal twin and earth will be exposed to the elements even in a pipe it will expand in the summer and shrink in the winter over time this will be highly dangerous also over time you may forget where you laid the cable eg grass coverings then having a tidy one day may go through it use armoured cable for your own safety and your reptiles as the cables breaks no power/heat chance of infections/r.i. is it worth risking for armoured cable that will cost a quid more a metre hope this helps cheers jamie


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

shaunyboy said:


> very nice s reptile shed mate very proffesional looking job you did on it.
> 
> how good did the insulation work ? (i'm thinking its spot on)
> 
> ...


hi mate, thanks for reply. the insulation is working really well, nice temperature inside. i think a block built one would be awsome, thats what i originally wanted to do but didnt have time or money. are you going to build it with two skins?


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Jeffers3 said:


> Nice job, mate. I'll be starting my shed conversion next weekend - if I can do half as well as you, I'll be well pleased. I'm lucky in that I already have a shed to start from. It needs a new roof, insulating, power supply (it has a cable from a socket in the house at the moment),
> 
> The only bit I'm concerned about is getting the power supply connected up. Any chance of putting together an "idiots guide" to doing this? If you have photos as well, that would be great. Ideally, I'd like to run a cable from the main fusebox, but I could access power from the kitchen.
> 
> [URL=http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/members/jeffers3-albums-reptile-house-build-picture130196t-shed-im-going-turn-into.jpg]image[/URL]


if you run power out to it i would try and make sure its on its own circuit, meaning running a new cable from the consumer unit out to the shed. you dont have to put anothere consumer unit in the shed like i did but i wanted more than one circuit in the shed. otherwise you can just put a cable from the fusebox to the a few sockets making sure the breaker or fuse has the correct current rating and you use the correct size cable. i would use armoured cable either clipped to surface or buried ( 18 inches deep if buried). or a normal twin and earth in an alcathene pipe. hope this helps, if you need any more technical information give me a shout. all i will say is electric can be lethal in the wrong hands so be careful.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

fidderz said:


> definately use armoured normal twin and earth will be exposed to the elements even in a pipe it will expand in the summer and shrink in the winter over time this will be highly dangerous also over time you may forget where you laid the cable eg grass coverings then having a tidy one day may go through it use armoured cable for your own safety and your reptiles as the cables breaks no power/heat chance of infections/r.i. is it worth risking for armoured cable that will cost a quid more a metre hope this helps cheers jamie


i prefer armoured aswell.


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## JustJack (Apr 19, 2010)

Its looking good! need pictures of the vivs and snakes in it now!


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

also i would never put power outside without an rcd. if there is no rcd on your fusebox i would recommend tackling that before you wire anything. basically it is a device that detects earth leakage and protects you from electric shock by tripping the supply. i think i will do a step by step on the electrics this evening.


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## shaunyboy (Oct 5, 2008)

reptilerossy said:


> hi mate, thanks for reply. the insulation is working really well, nice temperature inside. i think a block built one would be awsome, thats what i originally wanted to do but didnt have time or money. are you going to build it with two skins?


not got that far in the planning because it was only last night when my wife and i were discussing our concerns that my diamond's are not being kept cool enough that she came up with the idea

i have roughly 10ft by 15ft of free space in my back garden so there's enough room for a decent diamond room

i had thought of single breeze block with wooden framing inside with insulation then plywood on top of the frame boxing in the insulation

it will be building mates helping on their days off not a proffesional garage builder that builds it my mates just don't know they're doing it yet :whistling2:

were you thinking 2 skins with that expandite foam type insulation pumped between the skins ?

which ever method works out the most cost effective is what i'm after

don't get me wrong i won't skimp on it but any change left over from doing it can be spent on more diamonds

any advice or plans you could share would be most appreciated mate

thanks in advance,shaun


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Trootle said:


> Its looking good! need pictures of the vivs and snakes in it now!


i no its well over due for those pics so im on it now and they will be on here today. any ideas on improving layout of housing and racking would be much appreciated. baby corns are on the way so trying to figure out how to best use the space.


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

Guys I know your all big boys but be careful with electrics and make sure your circuit boards are up to date. 
If anymore getting the electrician in let us all know prices please. Seems you have a lot of electric going out into the shed so interested how you've got the electric all set up. Id love to do this but know it's going to cost a packet as would need a new board put in.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

shaunyboy said:


> not got that far in the planning because it was only last night when my wife and i were discussing our concerns that my diamond's are not being kept cool enough that she came up with the idea
> 
> i have roughly 10ft by 15ft of free space in my back garden so there's enough room for a decent diamond room
> 
> ...


I think you could get a way with doing a single skin and do two coats of render on the outside with the first coat containing waterproofer. and then do what you said on the inside with wood frame insulation and plywood. maybe put a waterproof membrane behind wood frame but then i supose it would be penetrated when you fix the frame to the wall so im not sure theres any point. the good thing about two skins is the gap stops any moisture getting across so you could do one skin, put celotex insulation up and then another skin. i think the cost of both would be similar because i was shocked at the price of plywood when i did mine and blocks are cheap. your builder friends might be able to guide you on what to do and the cost. just tell them that if they are real friends they should do it real cheap haha :2thumb:


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

animalstorey said:


> Guys I know your all big boys but be careful with electrics and make sure your circuit boards are up to date.
> If anymore getting the electrician in let us all know prices please. Seems you have a lot of electric going out into the shed so interested how you've got the electric all set up. Id love to do this but know it's going to cost a packet as would need a new board put in.


i totally agree, i dont really think its diy. i do understand that the price of an electrician is costly but there are certain things that are a must. also with electrical installations you should have a certificate with a shedule of test results which is usually needed if you sell your house to make sure its safe and it complies with building regs. it is easy to connect ends but there could be a birds nest of underlying problems. sorry if i sound like a party pooper or a know it all i just dont want anyone dying trying to have a bash at it. i would change a consumer unit for about 150 but it varys so much, i reckon the average is about 300. western power probably about 1k. so shop around a bit. but if you feel competant do it yourself.


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

reptilerossy said:


> i totally agree, i dont really think its diy. i do understand that the price of an electrician is costly but there are certain things that are a must. also with electrical installations you should have a certificate with a shedule of test results which is usually needed if you sell your house to make sure its safe and it complies with building regs. it is easy to connect ends but there could be a birds nest of underlying problems. sorry if i sound like a party pooper or a know it all i just dont want anyone dying trying to have a bash at it. i would change a consumer unit for about 150 but it varys so much, i reckon the average is about 300. western power probably about 1k. so shop around a bit. but if you feel competant do it yourself.


Cheers for that. I know when we bought our house the board was upto date but since then regs have changed and if we sold or did any work to the house then it would need doing. Obviously this is more than run a cable out the window job.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

animalstorey said:


> Cheers for that. I know when we bought our house the board was upto date but since then regs have changed and if we sold or did any work to the house then it would need doing. Obviously this is more than run a cable out the window job.


yeah thats right its a pain when the regs change because years go by and then what you have needs changing again. theres no reason why it couldnt be done if the person has some knowledge of electrical work, my dad was up b&q the other day and he seen this bloke pic up a consumer unit (fuse box) and turned to a member of staff and said this should be easy to fit shouldnt it :lol2:


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## knotism037 (Apr 6, 2009)

fidderz said:


> definately use armoured normal twin and earth will be exposed to the elements even in a pipe it will expand in the summer and shrink in the winter over time this will be highly dangerous also over time you may forget where you laid the cable eg grass coverings then having a tidy one day may go through it use armoured cable for your own safety and your reptiles as the cables breaks no power/heat chance of infections/r.i. is it worth risking for armoured cable that will cost a quid more a metre hope this helps cheers jamie


If he's worried about going over it use metal conduit instead of plastic and use pvc twin and earth as pvc is easier to use than SWA.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

i drilled through the outside wall of the house and ran a 4 mm 3 core (live, neutral, earth) armoured cable out to the shed burying it under a path on the way. i used cable cleats and screws to secure it to the wall.


















i drilled the bottom corner of the shed and clipped the cable up inside to a small consumer unit with a main switch a two breakers, one for lights and one for sockets. i then connected the cables for the sockets (16 amp radial) and lights (6 amp radial) into the breakers, neutral bar and earth bar. for sockets i used 2.5 mm twin and earth pvc and 1.5 mm for the lights.



















I then had to connect the other end in the house. I clipped the cable up the wall and into a metal clad single box with blank plate and jointed it inside with 30 amp connectors to a 4mm pvc cable as this makes it easier to put it into the consumer unit. inside the metal box i also put a link in to earth the steel wire of the armoured cable. this was done by using cable glands to secure the steel wire to the box then the putting a piece of cable from the gland to the earth in the connector. (if the way im explaining this is rubbish let me know and ill get more detailed pics). then i connected the pvc 4mm into the consumer unit.





































the new shed circuit is where it says lights and the light are now on with the boiler which reminds me i must remark it. you can see the two rcds on this panel, they are the switches with the blue test buttons. To be honest i feel like this is a rubbish way of showing how i did it but its the best i can do now its finished but i hope it helps a little.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

enough of the boring stuff, heres the vivs and rack so far. any suggestions welcome.


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

Acutully that's added a lot more info to your thread so thanks.
Im very weary with tradesmen and their prices! Lol.
Viv are looking great. Which tubs are using in the stack?
A excellent job mate.


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## RepBex (Jan 17, 2008)

Ha thats our shed lol snap : victory:

great build... wish ours was filled with reps :flrt:


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## moobazmoo (Mar 3, 2008)

It's looking really nice mate. How will the insulation act when the hot weather comes? Will it also help keep the temperatures stable or will you have to do some work on reflecting heat too?


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

animalstorey said:


> Acutully that's added a lot more info to your thread so thanks.
> Im very weary with tradesmen and their prices! Lol.
> Viv are looking great. Which tubs are using in the stack?
> A excellent job mate.


cheers, i got them from this shop buyology but ive seen them in other places. they are called crystal i think, they come with black lids.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

RepBex said:


> Ha thats our shed lol snap : victory:
> 
> great build... wish ours was filled with reps :flrt:


got it from b&q, is it the same shed is it?


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

moobazmoo said:


> It's looking really nice mate. How will the insulation act when the hot weather comes? Will it also help keep the temperatures stable or will you have to do some work on reflecting heat too?


it should keep heat out aswell as keeping it in. i hope thats how it works out any way. will have to monitor it as temperatures change.


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

Was going to say have you put much venting it? Did I miss that somewhere in the thread? A small 6inch squirrel fan would probabily be enough for good circulation etc.


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## Mikes snakes (Jan 17, 2011)

cool looking rep room dude


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## Jimmyjayz (Mar 20, 2011)

i cant ehlp noticing that you have a tncs power supply and a max fuse of around 80 amps due to this, also i must point out that you cant export the earth to the shed using armoured cable without the power suppliers permission {you should have an earth probe installed}, you techinically need to have a rcd at that point as well, as will probably fail to make the legal required disconnection times if you have used the sheath of the armoured cable.

otherwise looking very good


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

animalstorey said:


> Was going to say have you put much venting it? Did I miss that somewhere in the thread? A small 6inch squirrel fan would probabily be enough for good circulation etc.


no u didnt miss it i havnt actually put any ventilation in which might be an idea. i didnt seal the doors in the end though so there is some air coming in the the small gaps. how would i no if i needed more?


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Jimmyjayz said:


> i cant ehlp noticing that you have a tncs power supply and a max fuse of around 80 amps due to this, also i must point out that you cant export the earth to the shed using armoured cable without the power suppliers permission {you should have an earth probe installed}, you techinically need to have a rcd at that point as well, as will probably fail to make the legal required disconnection times if you have used the sheath of the armoured cable.
> 
> otherwise looking very good


yes i do have tncs also known as pme. what your saying is correct but i havnt used the steel wire as a supply earth to the shed, i was just explaining how ive earthed the steel wire; steel wire should be earthed. The supply earth to the shed is one of the three cores. also ive tested the rcd with my meter and it trips way below the maximum operating time. very good points to make though so thanks.


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

reptilerossy said:


> no u didnt miss it i havnt actually put any ventilation in which might be an idea. i didnt seal the doors in the end though so there is some air coming in the the small gaps. how would i no if i needed more?


One way will be black mould growing on the walls where air gets trapped. Remember with all the heat and water in there it's going to be humid. Two vent would be good. You can get a 4, 5, or six inch fan extractor from b&q which is all you would need and an inlet lower down maybe on the other side of the room.
We have a problem in the house even with extra air bricks put in! 









Not to say you will have an issue but I would look at putting something in. Sheds can get very warm it maybe trial and error over this year though. 
Really impressed with ur build, I'd love a 10x 18ft done like this!


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

animalstorey said:


> One way will be black mould growing on the walls where air gets trapped. Remember with all the heat and water in there it's going to be humid. Two vent would be good. You can get a 4, 5, or six inch fan extractor from b&q which is all you would need and an inlet lower down maybe on the other side of the room.
> We have a problem in the house even with extra air bricks put in!
> image
> 
> ...


yeah i think your right, i didnt really think about it much when i was doing it, but i think over time it could become a problem. is that pic mould from where uve got your reptiles? ill look into gettin an extractor, thinking about it i could connect it to a thermostat so that it comes on when it gets warm. a 10 by 18 would be awsome.


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## Rcryora (Sep 13, 2010)

I think your shed is a brilliant idea!!! It's made me think of doing our shed up and putting all our snakes/reptiles in there, soon they will be taking over the house if we dont lol If we ever need any help or info while we are building it i will deffently look at this tread  Well done


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

No it's not, my reptile rooms fine. It's in the dinning room between the book cases and the wall. Get a little two of the bedrooms. When we bought the house the guy had covered all the air bricks! We had a good number put in but still get this in the dinning room. Looking into what to do this summer. I just know my sheds use to get really hot and was wondering what it would be like if done out like you've done. Just thinking you may be glad to open a window but not very safe compared to and extractor fan.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Rcryora said:


> I think your shed is a brilliant idea!!! It's made me think of doing our shed up and putting all our snakes/reptiles in there, soon they will be taking over the house if we dont lol If we ever need any help or info while we are building it i will deffently look at this tread  Well done


thanks alot. i no what you mean, the reason i did it was because it wasnt practical with all the stuff in the house. the smell on cleaning days isnt brilliant and some visitors arnt so keen on the hobby :lol2:


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

animalstorey said:


> No it's not, my reptile rooms fine. It's in the dinning room between the book cases and the wall. Get a little two of the bedrooms. When we bought the house the guy had covered all the air bricks! We had a good number put in but still get this in the dinning room. Looking into what to do this summer. I just know my sheds use to get really hot and was wondering what it would be like if done out like you've done. Just thinking you may be glad to open a window but not very safe compared to and extractor fan.


ah rite, im going to see how it goes but i think an extractor fan like you said is the way forward if i get problems. i supose it like in a bathroom, it goes mouldy without the steam being extracted. whats it like now you have air bricks?


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## Jeffers3 (May 18, 2010)

Thanks for the extra info on the power supply. Since we last spoke, I've chatted to a mate at my club, who's a sparky. I'm going to get everything in place and he's said he will come round and do the last bit. He can also sign it off for me as well.

I'm going to tackle this on Saturday with a bit of luck.


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## Spiff (Dec 3, 2010)

Will the normal polysterene sheets be ok for insulation or does it have to be the metal backed stuff?


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

It dosent hAve to be, but the better it's insulated the better it will be!


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## Spiff (Dec 3, 2010)

im just having trouble finding places local to me that stock kingspan or celotex!


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## Phill_S (Aug 12, 2010)

Spiff said:


> im just having trouble finding places local to me that stock kingspan or celotex!


I bought my Celotex direct from their website - it was cheaper than Wickes and they delivered it free! I also used the tape they also sell to go around edges and joins - I eventually needed 4 rolls of the stuff, so about 200m worth!:gasp:


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## Spiff (Dec 3, 2010)

i just found a site that stocks it and only charges £20 delivery and the 2400x1200 sheets are about £20 each so hopefully shouldnt cost me to much! have just bought waterproofing stuff for the roof so that will be done when the weather is a bit better. also got some expanding foam for the bigger gaps so insulation and plyboard after that and see how it holds temperature! before i get my mate in to wire in the electric


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## BenjaminBoaz (Jan 6, 2006)

Haven't a clue on prices but b & q are supplying more and more types of insulates, including the silver backed foam and poly sheets.


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## Phill_S (Aug 12, 2010)

Spiff said:


> i just found a site that stocks it and only charges £20 delivery and the 2400x1200 sheets are about £20 each so hopefully shouldnt cost me to much! have just bought waterproofing stuff for the roof so that will be done when the weather is a bit better. also got some expanding foam for the bigger gaps so insulation and plyboard after that and see how it holds temperature! before i get my mate in to wire in the electric


Quick Buy - Celotex Home Insulation

I used their cheapest one - the TB4000 boards and they are perfect for my shed, we had temps as low as minus 12 degrees C, this winter time....of course I didn't know they'd be ebough when I bought them and did it all last summer, but I think after this winter just gone, they have shown they are more than up for the job! They are £13.82 per board (free delivery too) and they cut really easy using a stanley knife and I then glued the boards to the walls, ceiling and floor using no nails glue in between the shed frame for the walls and ceiling and then this left a gap of about 10mm between the plasterboards that I covered the ceiling and walls with, which is perfect to allow it to breathe.

Re - any gaps in the foam etc, I thought about using expanding foam, but it's expensive and wasn't sure if it'd actually cause damage, there really shouldn't be many gaps though if you cut the Celotex boards right and any gaps you do have fill with smaller bits of Celotex - you will have lots of random off cuts! Tape over the gaps/joins/edges with the tape that's also on their site, which again is far, far cheaper than anything similar at DIY shops - but remember to order enough. I went through nearly 200m (4 rollls) of it on my shed.

If you need any inspiration/tips look back through my posts and see my build thread.: victory:


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## snakeman85 (Dec 9, 2007)

didn't read the post properly, lol


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

i got the kingspan from b&q. i got the small ones because they are easier to use and transport which were 3 pound each and i used 20 so 60 quid for all of it. you shouldnt need to use anything for gaps or joints if you cut it tight enough.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Spiff said:


> Will the normal polysterene sheets be ok for insulation or does it have to be the metal backed stuff?


you could use polystyrene but its not that much cheaper and celotex is much more efficient. a builder told me its 5 times better than fibre glass.


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## reptilerossy (Aug 29, 2010)

Jeffers3 said:


> Thanks for the extra info on the power supply. Since we last spoke, I've chatted to a mate at my club, who's a sparky. I'm going to get everything in place and he's said he will come round and do the last bit. He can also sign it off for me as well.
> 
> I'm going to tackle this on Saturday with a bit of luck.


thats ideal glad your getting it sorted. post pics when youve done yours.


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