# Snake not feeding



## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

It's been 3 weeks since I got my Royal Python which is about 2 months old and it has been 3 weeks since he has fed. He just doesn't seem interested in feeding at all. He shies away from the food I offer. I just don't understand what the problem could be 
Any help would be appreciated.


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## Tomshady (Aug 14, 2013)

what size is the setup you have it in if its big try somthing smaller
try not to handle it so much leave the food in there over night in the dark
try too feed it somthing smaller then what you usally feed it 
if you leave the food in there do not leave it on the warm side 
hope this helps


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

OK thanks for the advice bro


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## chef85 (Feb 9, 2012)

Everything above, and try heating the head nice and hot, always works with mine.


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

chef85 said:


> Everything above, and try heating the head nice and hot, always works with mine.


as above with mine he would not entertain mice not even a sniff how ever a rat different matter would go crazy for rats fuzzys when he was youngun and even now still wont look at a mouse but a rat every time so try different prey


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## Tomshady (Aug 14, 2013)

something else have have had sucess with is braining make a slit in the skull to show brain tissue or put the snake a a bath with warm water leave it swim not for too long though that should make the digestive fluids move about and help switch on feed mode those method work really well for mine


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

lee52 said:


> as above with mine he would not entertain mice not even a sniff how ever a rat different matter would go crazy for rats fuzzys when he was youngun and even now still wont look at a mouse but a rat every time so try different prey


Ok thanks bro!


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

Tomshady said:


> something else have have had sucess with is braining make a slit in the skull to show brain tissue or put the snake a a bath with warm water leave it swim not for too long though that should make the digestive fluids move about and help switch on feed mode those method work really well for mine


Ok I'll try letting him swim a little


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

week 4 is another failure to eat. He even slithered over the rat pup and sat there. This is getting both frustrating and worrying :/


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

i know its been said but have you tried leaving pray over night?

one of my boas she wont fed if your in the same room near her viv as soon as she sees you she drops her coil on the rat but if i put a towel over the front of the viv shes no bother shes always been like so now i fed her last thing at night and leave the room and her to it

I know as newbie it is stressful and in human/dog/cat terms 4 weeks is a very long time but reps are different ( one of my male boas doesnt fed from november to feb thats his thing been like that since 1 year of age)

one thing that no one has asked yet what the temps of your viv hot spot and cool spot etc....


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

I've tried leaving in over night 3 times, once with a towl over, tried night time feeding vs morning, my snake is only 2 months or so, and hot spot is 25 but can get warmer depending on house temp. cold spot is about 22.


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

Payne said:


> I've tried leaving in over night 3 times, once with a towl over, tried night time feeding vs morning, my snake is only 2 months or so, and hot spot is 25 but can get warmer depending on house temp. cold spot is about 22.


well personally i would say your hot spot aint hot enough 25 aint a lot my royal has 33 for his hot spot and cool spot is 24 and thermoregalates fine
if your royal isnt warm enough he isnt going to fed does he spend most of his time in the hot end


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## Kimora (Mar 7, 2012)

Payne said:


> I've tried leaving in over night 3 times, once with a towl over, tried night time feeding vs morning, my snake is only 2 months or so, and hot spot is 25 but can get warmer depending on house temp. cold spot is about 22.


Only just seen this.

*sigh*


Hot spot is too cool, you need to be hitting 32-33C (some like it a little cooler but yours is WAY too cold, 25C is cool end temps).
What are you using for heating? what is his enclosure...full run down, advise really shouldn't of been given without knowing temps and full setup as 9/10 if a snake isn't eating...its husbandry.

4 weeks for a hatchling is a start of concern but not the end of the world.

Pictures of setup and of royal would be handy. (we can see if anything needs adding and the condition of royal).

List ALL the methods you have used and how often are you offering. Try too often and it will have the reverse effect and stress him out.

And a real bugbear of mine....in the majority of cases its not the size of the enclosure that will cause a snake to stop feeding, its the lack of cover.
Open spaces will make a young snake insecure, can stress them and therefore reflect in the eating.

How many feeds HAS he had with you? or was the last feed with the breeder or shop? if so do you have details?


I'm taken bets that your main issue is with the temps/heating.


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

Kimora said:


> Only just seen this.
> 
> *sigh*
> 
> ...


i was suprised no one had asked before (including myself) first thing i do is check the basics if i have any probs with my snakes, even my milksnake wouldnt be happy with 25 lol


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

to the op

not been funny but have you read up on care for your royal or did u get advice from seller?

heres a royal care link for u
Royal Python Care Sheet - The Royal Python.co.uk - Royal Python Care Sheet, Royal Python Facts, Royal Python Photos, Royal Python Forum, Royal Python Downloads and more...


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## Tomshady (Aug 14, 2013)

if its too hot it will not feed allways make sure its got plenty of water too try leaving a few pinkys in there


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

Tomshady said:


> if its too hot it will not feed allways make sure its got plenty of water too try leaving a few pinkys in there


the op has already said the hot end is only 25c so far from been to hot


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

lee52 said:


> the op has already said the hot end is only 25c so far from been to hot


About that, the heat mat the store gave me obviously doesn't achieve that optimal heat levels so I was hoping you could inform me the best brand and model of heat mat to use to reach 32oC (preferably with the ability to turn down the heat in summer and night time), thanks.


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

Payne said:


> About that, the heat mat the store gave me obviously doesn't achieve that optimal heat levels so I was hoping you could inform me the best brand and model of heat mat to use to reach 32oC (preferably with the ability to turn down the heat in summer and night time), thanks.


where bouts you measuring temps on the mat? is it a wood viv glass is the mat inside or outside the ect...


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## Lord Vetinari (Mar 4, 2011)

Could really do with a pic of the setup as well mate.


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

lee52 said:


> where bouts you measuring temps on the mat? is it a wood viv glass is the mat inside or outside the ect...


About an inch away from the wall on the warm end, plastic exo-terra breeding box and its on the outside.


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## Tomshady (Aug 14, 2013)

as said take a few pictures it will help alot


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

Payne said:


> About an inch away from the wall on the warm end, plastic exo-terra breeding box and its on the outside.


so your not measuring your temps direct on mat/floor your measuring ambient temps?

cos heat mats wont do anything for ambient wherebouts does the royal spend most of his time

i have 3 adult boas and all of their tanks are different temps because all snakes are different fo example if the snake is spending all its time in the water or in the cold end its telling you its to hot and likewise if he wont move of the heatmat he aint getting warm enough. so if one of my snakes was spending ll its time at the cold end i would drop the temp by 0.5 - 1 c then see how he behaves etc..


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

lee52 said:


> so your not measuring your temps direct on mat/floor your measuring ambient temps?
> 
> cos eat mats wont do anything for ambient wherebouts does the royal spend most of his time
> 
> i have 3 adult boas and all of their tanks are different temps because all snakes are different fo example if the snake is spending all its time in the water or in the cold end its telling you its to hot and likewise if he wont move of the heatmat he aint getting warm enough. so if one of my snakes was spending ll its time at the cold end i would drop the temp by 0.5 - 1 c then see how he behaves etc..


He spends most of his time on the warm end but he is also no stranger to the cool end and I will also post an image of the set up - coming soon...


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

IMG_0263[1] | Flickr - Photo Sharing!


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## JustJack (Apr 19, 2010)

Is your mat statted?


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

If by that you mean a thermostat, no it is not I just assumed that it would go to the right temperature range seeing as with the starter kit I bought there was no thermostat provided. The heat mat is made by ProRep.


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## JustJack (Apr 19, 2010)

All heat equipment needs to be statted including heat mats. Heat mats don't have 'built in thermostats' and unstated mats can reach unsafe temperatures.

Getting a stat would be a priority, which will sort out the temps and hopefully once they are sorted he will start feeding. : victory:


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## lee52 (Apr 17, 2013)

Payne said:


> If by that you mean a thermostat, no it is not I just assumed that it would go to the right temperature range seeing as with the starter kit I bought there was no thermostat provided. The heat mat is made by ProRep.


any kind of heat source needs to be controlled by stat to maintain stable temps prevent fires harm to snake etc..... seems to be the norm for these "starter kits" not to have any kind of stat

but now we know what happing it can all be sorted fella


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

Trootle said:


> All heat equipment needs to be statted including heat mats. Heat mats don't have 'built in thermostats' and unstated mats can reach unsafe temperatures.
> 
> Getting a stat would be a priority, which will sort out the temps and hopefully once they are sorted he will start feeding. : victory:


OK sure thing dude, if you could point out a reliable, reasonably priced stat for me I'd be grateful


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## JustJack (Apr 19, 2010)

Payne said:


> OK sure thing dude, if you could point out a reliable, reasonably priced stat for me I'd be grateful


If you want a cheap me, go for a habistat mat stat http://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/rep...thermostats-555/habistat-mat-stat-245565.html

Or I would personally go for a habistat pulse stat http://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/rep...stat-pulse-proportional-thermostat-26741.html

I use both, and both work fine. The pulse keeps a more steady, constant temp. Mat stat is a but up and down but stays within a few degrees.


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

Trootle said:


> If you want a cheap me, go for a habistat mat stat Mat Stat | Swell Reptiles
> 
> Or I would personally go for a habistat pulse stat Pulse Proportional Thermostat | Swell Reptiles
> 
> I use both, and both work fine. The pulse keeps a more steady, constant temp. Mat stat is a but up and down but stays within a few degrees.


pulse stat it is! thanks for all the help


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## JustJack (Apr 19, 2010)

Payne said:


> pulse stat it is! thanks for all the help


That's fine, also in his set up, maybe add some plastic plants and stuff so he feels more secure. Ideally there should be a hot hide and a cold end hide, so maybe have the hide on the hot side and lots of plant overage on thr cold side as don't think there's space for 2 hides!


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

Trootle said:


> That's fine, also in his set up, maybe add some plastic plants and stuff so he feels more secure. Ideally there should be a hot hide and a cold end hide, so maybe have the hide on the hot side and lots of plant overage on thr cold side as don't think there's space for 2 hides!


Yeah I was going to get a second but they defo. isn't enough space, I shall grab some plants


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## JustJack (Apr 19, 2010)

Payne said:


> Yeah I was going to get a second but they defo. isn't enough space, I shall grab some plants


Once the temps are sorted and he has more coverage and security, he should start feeding for you.


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## Tomshady (Aug 14, 2013)

do it look like its lost weight


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

Tomshady said:


> do it look like its lost weight


On monday I put him back in the shop for 2 weeks and hes started feeding. So for now danger averted, I am buying a thermostat and some plastic plants too.


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## Tomshady (Aug 14, 2013)

Payne said:


> On monday I put him back in the shop for 2 weeks and hes started feeding. So for now danger averted, I am buying a thermostat and some plastic plants too.


hope it all goes well


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## ian14 (Jan 2, 2008)

Heat mats are all well and good in a warm room, or for snakes that dont need high ambient temperatures, but in my experience, tend to be pretty useless for royals. 
Given that your python fed once back at teh shop confirms that the problem is the husbandry, not the snake.
First of all, what it is housed in - exo terra breeding boxes will not hold the warmth in due to the ventilated lid. Secondly, the heating itself - royals are from a warm, tropical region and need to have a good, ambient temperature. You won't achieve this with a heat mat alone unless you have the python in a room that is already heated. People with large royals collections tend to house them in racks in a room used specifically for the snakes, that is heated. You will be far better off with a vivarium that is properly heated from above, so the air itself is warm. Heat mats are contact heaters, so they only heat what is in contact with it. They will only raise the air temperature a few degrees above room temperature.
HAving kept royals, I found they were fine in tubs on heat mats in the summer, but as soon as the temperature began to drop in the autumn they refused to feed. As soon as I moved them into wooden vivaria, with overhead heating, they fed instantly.


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

ian14 said:


> Heat mats are all well and good in a warm room, or for snakes that dont need high ambient temperatures, but in my experience, tend to be pretty useless for royals.
> Given that your python fed once back at teh shop confirms that the problem is the husbandry, not the snake.
> First of all, what it is housed in - exo terra breeding boxes will not hold the warmth in due to the ventilated lid. Secondly, the heating itself - royals are from a warm, tropical region and need to have a good, ambient temperature. You won't achieve this with a heat mat alone unless you have the python in a room that is already heated. People with large royals collections tend to house them in racks in a room used specifically for the snakes, that is heated. You will be far better off with a vivarium that is properly heated from above, so the air itself is warm. Heat mats are contact heaters, so they only heat what is in contact with it. They will only raise the air temperature a few degrees above room temperature.
> HAving kept royals, I found they were fine in tubs on heat mats in the summer, but as soon as the temperature began to drop in the autumn they refused to feed. As soon as I moved them into wooden vivaria, with overhead heating, they fed instantly.


So overhead heating for the colder times of the year, got it. If you could recommend a decent, cost effective brand for overhead heating I would be grateful


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## Kimora (Mar 7, 2012)

Payne said:


> So overhead heating for the colder times of the year, got it. If you could recommend a decent, cost effective brand for overhead heating I would be grateful



Overhead heating for royals in *wood* viv's full stop....its not normally combined with RUB's unless you like making modifications.
Royals are classed as heavy bodied, making mats a risk for them. Fine under a RUB as long as you use an appropriate sized rub and of course stated. But may cause thermal blocking in a viv, leading to hot spots and eventually burns to your royal in a wood viv. Not advisable for snakes classed as medium bodied and upwards.

A ceramic (if a ceramic...MUST use a ceramic holder with these) or bulb should be used in this type of enclosure, guarded, and stated to a pulse stat (ceramic) or Dimmer (can be used with either light bulb or ceramic). ALL of the above can be found cheaply on ebay (second hand and new) including viv's or look on swell.

IMO I'd say the current RUB is leaning on the small size if you can't get two hides in, allowing thermoregulation without having to compromise on feeling safe. Some keepers use a 64ltr RUB for hatchling - juvie, with cack loads of coverage in the form of branches, cork bark and foliage.


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## Payne (Sep 8, 2013)

OK ATM I can only buy one of the two but can buy the other shortly. Which would you say is the more pressing one; a larger in all dimensions wooden (back and sides giving the snake a sense of cover) vivarium which as I'm told by one of you will hold the heat much better raising my ambient air temp. Or the pulse stat?
Thank you for your time


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## Kimora (Mar 7, 2012)

Payne said:


> OK ATM I can only buy one of the two but can buy the other shortly. Which would you say is the more pressing one; a larger in all dimensions wooden (back and sides giving the snake a sense of cover) vivarium which as I'm told by one of you will hold the heat much better raising my ambient air temp. Or the pulse stat?
> Thank you for your time


They go hand in hand. As i already outlined...mats for royals in a viv is not advisable (for both the snakes safety and your own.). A mat is also a surface heater only. It will do little to nothing for ambients, so this will always remain around room temp regardless if you use a RUB or viv. To bring your ambients up you will need a bulb or ceramic setup....which in turn requires a viv setup and a pulse or dimmer stat.

A stat is the most important bit of equipment you are lacking at the moment and needs dealing with as a priority.


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