# Cane toad problem - please help!



## jasonm96 (Aug 30, 2015)

Hi all

I've had a Cane toad since last June. It refused to feed or show much activity so I went to the vet on October (I think) and got a fecal done, it shown that it had hookworms. I then treated it as directed but I'm still having problems. I'm considering starting the treatment again to see if it helps, just in case the worms weren't killed off by the first but I'm surprised it would still be living if they weren't. What I'm asking is, on the possibility of it not working, what should I do? I've already spent near enough £800, between getting the toad, setting it up in a large tank with all the luxuries to make it feel comfortable, buying several different heating methods to try get results and some the vets. It currently lives in an Exo Terra 36 x 18 x 18 inches, with lighting and a red bulb for heating. I've covered half the screen with foil to keep the humidity up and the temps and humidity are spot on. I know a few are against heat bulbs with most amphibians but I've tried heat mats as well and ceramics and shown no signs of improvement but I think the heat bulb works best. The frog won't feed in front of me, although I think it has ate the odd few crickets when I've left them in but I'm concerned that it's not eating enough or the supplements of the crickets would be worn off by the time it actually eats them. It's not lost weight but it's hard to tell as it puffs itself up to make itself look big every time I go near it. All day it spends hiding, which is normal I suppose for a nocturnal but I rarely see it up at night, though in the morning the water dish does appear dirty. I'm considering putting it down if the next treatment doesn't work but at the same time I really don't want to unless it's absolutely necessary, as I love the guy but I can't decide if it's worth him 'living' if all it's going to be is depressed but at the same time, is it really my decision? There's much risks with this when acquiring wild toads but since their an invasive species and taking from the invasive populations, I thought I could give him a fighting chance of a life and I heard they were pretty hardy, I've never had these problems before and I've kept many amphibians. 

Can anyone share some thoughts, please?

Thanks
Jason


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## MSID (May 13, 2010)

Hi
Can I ask if you have tried any other feeder insects? Many years ago I had a wild caught Cane and it was never that interested in crickets. It would eat them but would not put any effort into going after them, but adult locusts would be actively hunted. It would also go for large beetles. I didn't try roaches, but they would also be something I would try. You don't say how big the toad is?

Not seeing it move is something I can relate to, I had mine for 18 years and it would either be in its water bowl or in a cave in its set up, I only saw it move between two on very rare occasions.


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## jasonm96 (Aug 30, 2015)

MSID said:


> Hi
> Can I ask if you have tried any other feeder insects? Many years ago I had a wild caught Cane and it was never that interested in crickets. It would eat them but would not put any effort into going after them, but adult locusts would be actively hunted. It would also go for large beetles. I didn't try roaches, but they would also be something I would try. You don't say how big the toad is?
> 
> Not seeing it move is something I can relate to, I had mine for 18 years and it would either be in its water bowl or in a cave in its set up, I only saw it move between two on very rare occasions.


Thanks for the reply. I have tried crickets, superworms, mealworms, pink mice, dog food and nightcrawlers. It has barely ate at all since I've had it and I'm surprised it isn't underweight. It did show some interest in mealworms when I left the dish in but they're not the best food. I might try locust. 

My toads around 5 inches and I believe it may be an adult male.

So this is normal for them? I don't understand why they'd be encouraged as pets. I heard they were quite interactive to some degree and quite greedy.


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## Ron Magpie (Oct 11, 2009)

They can be shy, sometimes- for no apparent reason. my main suggestion would be to vary the food offered as much as possible, and where possible, leave food items in the viv to let them hunt when they are ready- allowing for safety, of course. My two sneak out when they think I'm not looking for waxworms in a dish, especially- although again, you don't want to over-feed with them!


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## jasonm96 (Aug 30, 2015)

What I'm concerned about is that if I leave the food items in and he doesn't eat them straight away, the supplements will wear off. I'll try waxworms and locust and hopefully I'll see some results. Are yours ever active during the day or just at night? I don't know if I should try and get a hold of another cane toad to give it some company, as they're communal and may encourage it to eat. Do you think I should try the hookworm treatment again?


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## MSID (May 13, 2010)

I wouldn't go straight for treatment, if the first worked then you will just be stressing the toad for no reason, you could get the tests done again.
Mine was very shy to begin with, but in time it would take locusts from tongs, it was about the same size as yours. I know they will eat dead things, but mine would not touch anything that was not moving. It never ate earthworms, I know many do but it used to puff up and act as though they were a predator.
I think Ron is right, try as much variety of food types as you can, leave it in the tank if you can and I would add try not to disturb any more than you have to.


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## jasonm96 (Aug 30, 2015)

I suppose you're right, it I'll stress the toad. I don't have enough money at this time sadly, I've exhausted my money so far for this toad unfortunately but will try other food items to see if it gets a response. If not I might consider getting another fecal done and or re start the treatment again. I think whenever I do have money I might consider getting another toad for company if it does show up fine but I think they usuaully for sale at summer. I seriously do doubt it is still ill though, I mean, if it was that means it's been ill since June last year or possibly longer and is still going, that would be impressive


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## jasonm96 (Aug 30, 2015)

Can you tell me abit about your set up and more about your toad? It would help see if my husbandry and behaviour match.


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## jasonm96 (Aug 30, 2015)

I have some good news. The cane toad did a poo and it looked very healthy. Before the treatment in October it did very water ones. I've not been able to find any in quite some time but after a change in substrate to bark chips from coir, it's much easier to see. I've reverted back to a heat mat on the wall, since temperatures are rising, it's easier to maintain the heat. I'll be keeping a close eye on him. I'd still very much like to hear about some users set ups, though. I've ordered some large locust, hopefully the toad will take them.


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## Uromastyxman (Jan 28, 2009)

I've had Cane Toads for years. I would describe them as a nervous species, the ones I've had have all been WC and to get them up and running I've literally had to house the vivariums somewhere quiet, all my animals are housed in an outhouse. You have to set them up so that they get disturbed as little as possible. They defacate daily when they are feeding properly so you have to be able to keep them clean without disturbing them. Rather than building a complicated half aquatic set up for them I would simply put in a large ceramic dog bowl which my canes would seek out every day to take in fresh water through their skin, they defacate daily in the bowl, which is very kind of them as it makes it easy to clean and they don't soil the substrate.

My Canes also have hides which they are often in. See pictures in the link below.

I think it is just as likely that you toad's unwillingness to eat is caused by stress as much as Internal parasites. I also never handle my toads unless it is for cleaning or transportation. Mine have become conditioned to tolerate handling but they don't like it. So I would provide a hide and a water bowl and put the vivarium away from people, don't forget, every time they hear a voice or a tv or you poke your head up to the viv will cause stress. Every time you attempt to feed them will cause stress. I would get some roaches that can sit in a deep ceramic dog bowl they can't climb out of and I would leave it in the viv so that they are not near the toad but somewhere they will catch its eye. It took years for mine to settle down. And by settle down I mean eat regularly, and stabilise.

Below is a link to a previous post:

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/amphibians/638032-surinam-toads-african-bullfrogs.html


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## jasonm96 (Aug 30, 2015)

Thanks for your reply

I think the problem is the toad is simply just not adjusting to a captivity. The amphibians I have are housed in their own room and don't get handled until they need removed to clean their tank. The toad also got treated for worms. I decided to give the toad to a friend at a rescue centre that was interested and in exchange take on a cheeky crested gecko that needed re-homing, I'll be seeing him next week when I go help so hopefully it's getting on well. Unfortunately the money and time I spent on trying to get the toad to adjust with no positive feedback was starting to put stress on myself and money, so started to effect my caring for the other animals I have. I honestly tried all I could, I feel bad but I've learned my lesson and won't be buying any WC animals in the future.

I like your toad btw, it's massive.


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